The tragedy that hit Texas last week impacted people throughout the state. It will take a long time to rebuild, and most likely even longer for the fear to subside and the scars to eventually heal. As we are so often reminded in times of tragedy, one of the easiest ways to help impacted communities as they rebuild is to support local businesses.
There is no tastier way to do so than by buying wines and spirits. This week, then, my Wines of the Week—and a particularly delicious whiskey—are from the Lone Star State. And while Texas wine may not be as famous as, say, the best of California or Oregon, it is a deeply exciting state for reds, whites, and sparklers, with visionary, passionate producers who are not just crafting excellent wines in their own right, but also often challenging what consumers think about grape varieties that they may not even be all that familiar with.
My white Wine of the Week, the Duchman Family Winery Viognier 2018, from the Bingham Family Vineyard in Fredericksburg, has all the high-toned flowers and honeyed notes that fans of the variety look for, as well as amplified acidity that is not usually associated with Viognier. As a result, this is a remarkably food-friendly bottling, with a subtly bitter edge to the melon and citrus pith notes that are excellent counterpoints to the more generous pineapple and dried yellow peach flavors. For $25, it’s a steal.
Duchman Family Winery produces a Viognier of aromatic complexity, as well as a brightness not … [+] usually associated with the variety.
My red Wine of the Week, the Brennan Vineyards Graciano Reserve 2018, from the Lahey Vineyard in the Texas High Plains, is a perfect example of what Texas does so well. Graciano, after all, is most famous in its Spanish expression, particularly when grown and vinified in the Rioja region. Yet this particular bottling from Brennan Vineyards proves how brilliant it can be from less-expected parts of the world, especially when it’s grown and crafted with care. It challenges preconceptions in the most exuberant way. Texas wines seem to excel at that.
This particular one is practically bursting with life: Bright, vibrant, mouthwatering brambly berry fruit, whole cloves, cherries, blood oranges, and a dusting of tannins that frame it all and call out for a rich, well-marbled piece of beef. With air, it just keeps getting better and better in the glass, and a more savory tone emerges that reminds me of scorched earth in the best possible sense…and demands another sip.
Brennan Vineyards has produced a Graciano that challenges expectations in the most delicious way.
Finally, whiskey. Texas has become one of the most exciting states in the country for the production of world-class whiskey, and I’ll be covering a number of standout producers in an upcoming piece. For today, I strongly recommend the Treaty Oak Ghost Hill Texas Bourbon, a stunning whiskey that’s crafted from a mash bill that includes Texas Yellow Dent Number 1 corn (57%), Texas wheat (32%), and 11% American barley. It’s crafted entirely at the distillery in Dripping Springs, Texas, from the mashing of the grains to the distilling of the spirit itself to the aging and final bottling, and it represents a fantastic example of what makes Texas whiskeys so remarkable. This one boasts distinct aromas of roasted corn and corn nuts, as well as a subtle hint of orchard-fruit sweetness. These tee up flavors of honey, peanuts, pralines, cinnamon, graham crackers, and something that is deeply reminiscent of the Honey Smacks cereal I loved as a kid. This is a delicious bourbon, honest and well-crafted, and dangerously easy to drink.
Whether it’s these excellent wines and spirits or others, there’s no better time than now to support producers in Texas.
Treaty Oak Ghost Hill Bourbon is a delicious bottling that embodies much of what makes Texas whiskey … [+] so exciting.