Dan the Wine Man: Give me a holiday and I think wine. – Napa Valley Register

DAN DAWSON

Editor’s note: This week we are running Dan Dawson’s column on the food section, however, next week it will return to its regular place on the Friday wine section.

This is what my holiday word association would look like:

New Year’s – Champagne

Thanksgiving – Beaujolais

Fourth of July – Zinfandel

Christmas – Pinot Noir

President’s Day – Petite Sirah

Arbor Day – Sauvignon Blanc

International Left-Handers Day – that’s easy … Shiraz

Give me a holiday and I think wine. It’s an occupational hazard.

This is Column #3 of my “joint” with Ken Morris’ “Cooking For Comfort.” I recommend wines to pair with Ken’s recipes, and add a few general food and wine pairing tips along the way. Unlike most wine-scribe suggestions, my wine picks are easily accessible for local readers.

I’ll tell you how to purchase and maybe who to ask for when you do. Easy purchase and pick-up are required to make it into “Dan The Wine Man.” Wineries, wine shops and markets qualify. If the wine comes from a micro-winery with no physical location, free delivery or convenient pick-up is required.

I have a wine recommendation for Ken’s Lamb Burgers and Best Roast Chicken, but first more on my holiday word, or wine, association. Holidays and certain occasions make me feel like having a particular wine. There could be a practical reason, maybe it’s purely emotional, maybe there are elements of both. “Easter Wine” I guess is both.

On Easter Sunday I want to drink fruity, fresh, and dry sparkling wine. I want straightforward deliciousness, as joyous as the spring day I expect we’ll have. Rosé sparkling is always nice and its Easter hue is lovely, but not required. Practically speaking, sparkling is my choice because its relatively low alcohol is better for early afternoon drinking and a productive evening. Emotionally, fresh fruity flavors and the alluring, rising bubbles are akin to new life, revival, and resurrection.

I stopped by the wine shop Back Room Wines in downtown Napa for a few fresh and fruity sparkling wine recommendations.

Once you enter the shop, head to the back right corner and to what I like to call the Bubble Wall. It’s a great big bookshelf, actually, that’s been converted to the home of the best selection of Champagnes and sparkling wines in Napa. It’s dangerous for those of us with a weak spot for Champagne. Luckily there are outstanding “alternatives,” if you will. That’s what I went in to find. I’ll recommend two today but there are many more to consider. The staff, likely Felicia Patel or Tomas Viramontes, are ready to assist you.

G.D. Vajra Moscato d’Asti 2019 ($19) is so darn good. I honestly don’t think there’s anything better on a weekend afternoon. Honeysuckle, jasmine, fresh fruit galore and a low 5% alcohol. Acidity, and bubbles, balance the off dry wine. No apologies for Muscat here…I love its many styles when made with skill and love – I can say that for any grape. No lie: There’s a bottle in my fridge with a don’t open until Easter sticker on it.

Fearless in selling the obscure, Back Room carries an Extra Brut Rosé from Portugal called “3B” by Filipa Pato ($20). By drinking 3B I added two grapes to my tasted list, Baga and Bical. But that’s not important. Yes it’s fruity, but in a very different way than the Moscato above. I get smoky cherry, deep raspberry and red apple along with dried rose petals, peach pit and almond. Ken, how about whippin’ up a cured salmon appetizer for the “3B” Rosé?

Order online at BackRoomWines.com and choose in-store pickup. Better yet, pay a visit and enjoy The Bubble Wall. Back Room is open seven days a week 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. (It opens at noon on Sundays.)

Wine pairing with Ken’s recipes

Ken’s Lamb Kafta Burgers are a natural with any Napa Valley Cabernet. What’s better than lamb and Cab? Not much. If that’s where your heart is, do it and love it.

I have something more unique and economical to recommend. Bêcheur Old Vine Mourvèdre 2018 ($18) is made from 100+-year-old Mourvèdre vines growing near Pittsburgh in the Sacramento Delta. The dark berry and plum flavors marry earthy, licorice-y, peppery spices for a complete, soulful wine. There’s a flavor match for just about everything in the Lamb Burgers (mint, cumin, harissa, grilled lamb) and is plenty concentrated to hold up to the dish.

Buy the Mourvèdre from Becheur.com. This is a negociant project owned and run by long-time Napa winemaker Michael Terrien. Pick-up is in Napa unless Michael can provide free delivery. Note that the wine is sold in multiples of 6. For what it’s worth I have a 6 pack at home for drinking with beef, poultry, sausages…and lamb.

Speaking of emotional wine choices, one’s preference with Ken’s Best Roast Chicken is massively subjective. I could, but won’t, lob 10 grapes and regions into the air like skeet targets. I’d like you to try a local Pinot Noir by Napa winemaker and wine guy Chris Dearden.

Argus Pinot Noir Napa Valley-Carneros 2018 ($32) is a fruit-focused Pinot with concentrated, dark red cherry and raspberry flavors and a gentle touch of sweet, toasty oak. Super easy to like and drinking at its best now, it has the richness and spice to match the chicken’s dry rub and roasted goodness. Taste the Argus next to Pinots twice the price and you’ll understand why the others cost more, but you’ll want to drink this one.

Order from DeardenWines.com and choose either pickup or local delivery. Either option is free. You’ll hear from Chris by email, phone, or both.

We’d love to hear about your cooking and wine pairing experience. Please send me a note if you’ve made a Cooking With Comfort dish and paired it with my wine suggestion. Enjoy the spring. No doubt will be a glorious one as we carefully emerge from the pandemic. Take care.

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Dan Dawson is a former Napa Valley wine merchant and sommelier. These days he helps small California wineries connect with folks who want their wine but don’t know it yet. You can reach Dan via his website, DawsonWineAdvisor.com and @dawsonwineadvisor on Facebook & Instagram.