Wines

Hundreds of new whiskies are launched every year – some from young distilleries, others from established names introducing new core bottlings or releasing limited edition products.

Keeping up with this perpetual conveyor belt is even harder when you factor in all the countries now making their own whiskies and giving the old guard something to think about. Name a country – Australia? India? Denmark? South Africa? – and you can pretty much guarantee that it’s making some decent drams these days.

This is good news for the curious whisky drinker. What’s even better news is the impact this has on the established names of the whisky world. There’s no room for complacency, and the best distillers are as keen to learn from industry newcomers as they are from their ancestors. Here are eight excellent whiskies costing less than £100 – all launched in the past few years…

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AnCnoc Peatheart Batch 2

AnCnoc is the single malt Scotch made at Knockdhu distillery near Keith – so named to avoid confusion with Knockando. Here its zippy lime and greengage fruit is shown in smoky guise, resulting in a dram that’s more about intrigue than complexity. Barbecued kiwi fruit, spearmint and a slightly bitter finish. One to mix with. Alc 46%

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Berry Bros & Rudd The Perspective Series 21 Year Old

The result of a partnership between Berry Bros spirits buyer Doug McIvor and landscape photographer Lindsay Robertson, this blended Scotch is as well-composed as the latter’s dramatic images. There’s plenty of fleshy red fruit alongside light spices and honey, with a tangy, nutty quality that keeps you coming back for one more glass. Alc 43%

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Blue Spot 7 Year Old Cask Strength

Reuniting the old ‘spot’ family of pot still whiskeys sold by Dublin merchant Mitchell & Son (following Green, Red and Yellow), this is bottled at cask strength – and it shows in the punchy combination of highly perfumed floral aromas, ultra-ripe orchard fruits and tangy pot still spices. Structured but smooth, with scents of golden syrup, fudge and light honey. Alc 58.7%

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Dalmore 12 Year Old Sherry Cask Select

A new Dalmore, and a (relatively) restrained Dalmore, matured in ex-bourbon casks and finished in sherry. There’s roast hazelnut, dark honey and a resinous scent of old polished furniture. Sleek and sumptuous, in time more classical Dalmore flavours of cassis and black cherries dipped in dark chocolate emerge – with the finish lifted by notes of Bendicks Bittermint. Alc 43%

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Heaven’s Door Tennessee Bourbon

Developed in association with Bob Dylan, this Tennessee bourbon is part of a small but excellent range. A mashbill of 30% ‘small grains’ (rye, wheat and/or barley) and at least six years’ oak ageing yield a classic bourbon with vanilla and sweetcorn, coupled with red fruit, coffee roaster and a pleasant if drying nutty note. Alc 42%

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John Walker & Sons Celebratory Blend

Johnnie Walker celebrated ‘his’ 200th birthday in 2020 (look out for a film and a splendid book on the subject) and this is one of the new releases marking the occasion. A worthy tribute to 19th-century blending pioneers, it offers a kaleidoscope of fruit, gentle smoke, baking spices and chocolate ganache – all underpinned by the seamless sweetness of well-chosen grain whiskies. Alc 51%

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Kilchoman Machir Bay Cask Strength Festive Edition

A fully loaded version of Kilchoman’s popular Machir Bay expression, this Scotch needs a bit of coaxing out of its shell, with that extra strength making for a brooding nose with a whiff of first aid kit about it. Time and water brings out a beguiling maritime smokiness, with some mouthfilling fruit. Worth the wait. Alc 58.6%

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Wolfburn Small Batch Release No 204

Almost eight years after opening in Scotland’s far north, this Thurso distillery is building a reputation for a series of promising small-batch bottlings, including this. Five years in ex-Bourbon and six months in ex-Madeira creates a crowd-pleasing mix of sweet apple, orange zest and light brown sugar, with darker hints of fig and treacle in the background. Alc 46%

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The catch-all wine appreciation day, Global Drink Wine Day is held annually on 18 February.

Familiar favourites like New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, red Burgundy or Argentinean Malbec might come to mind as your celebratory wine of choice – and there are many top examples to choose from when searching DWWA 2020 results – but for those looking to discover something new, we have put together a list of some of the competition’s top-scoring wines from perhaps less familiar regions and grape varieties.

Tasted and rated by our expert judges at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2020 last August, here you can explore a selection of 95+ point sparkling, white, red and sweet wines worth seeking out…

Sparkling

Caves Transmontanas, Vértice Bruto, Douro, Portugal 2012

Platinum, 97 points

40% Gouveio, 30% Viosinho, 30% Rabigato

Wonderful toasty brioche, apricot and citrus underpinned by a chalky, limey core; rich and elegant with a sublime, almost creamy acidity, a smooth, velvety mousse, and a stunning, long, melt-in-the-mouth finish with soft herbal influences.

Dveri-Pax, DP Šipon Brut, Štajerska Slovenija, Podravje, Slovenia 2016

Gold, 96 points

100% Furmint

Expressive Furmint nose with salinity, minerality, quince and baked apples. Delicious with an impressive mousse, tons of fresh apple juice and lemon flavours and lovely energy and lift.

Štampar, Urban White Extra Brut, Zagorje – Međimurje, Continental, Croatia NV

Gold, 95 points

100% Moslavac

Serious nose with tons of complex lemon, acacia and honey. Quince, lemon and creamy hints on the palate with lovely depth, length and harmonious acidity.

White

Cantina Valle Isarco, Aristos Kerner, Alto Adige Valle Isarco, Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol, Italy 2018

Best in Show, 97 points

100% Kerner

Kerner is a crossing of Riesling with Schiava Grossa – which makes it all the more appropriate that the Kerner we picked out for our Best In Show selection this year comes from Alto Adige, the birthplace and home of the Schiava family. Fans of Kerner always adore its aromas, and they are rarely realised with more fresh-grass zest and rose-petal precision than here. Sometimes the flavours can seem a little woolly after that come-hither charm, but not here: this wine flies straight and true as an arrow, all the way to a clean spice finish backed, nonetheless, by some supporting glycerous wealth. Remarkable work and a fine varietal benchmark.

Villa Baulieu, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, Provence, France 2016

Best in Show, 97 points

60% Rolle, 40% Sauvignon

Provence’s finest white wines are one of France’s wine secrets: little lauded, amidst all the attention given to rosé and prestige reds, but quietly compelling, as those who take the trouble to discover them will find, and more diverse than you would think, too. This point of difference in this outstanding example from Coteaux d’Aix en Provence is the Sauvignon Blanc component, freshening and lending a nut-leaf complexity to the richer, more succulent fruit from the Rolle (Vermentino), always at home around the Mediterranean rim. Look out, too, for the pithy, zesty finish with its attractive and cleansing note of soft bitterness.

Erdevik, Omnibus Lector Chardonnay, Fruška Gora, Srem, Serbia 2015

Platinum, 97 points


100% Chardonnay

A fantastic, multi-layered wine characterised by a real intense profile. On the nose there is a powerful expression of chalk and smoke, followed by green melon, peach and nectarine flavours. It’s well integrated and finishes lengthily. Really impressive.

Kozlović, Selekcija Malvazija, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal, Croatia 2017

Platinum, 97 points


100% Malvasia Istriana

Stunningly clean and impressive mineral and saline nose. The palate is crisp, bright and fresh, with some elegant grip. The finish is very persistent and delivers plenty of flavour, with prickly lime and herbal notes. Superb wine!

Teliani Valley, Glekhuri Kisi Qvevri, Kakheti, Georgia 2018

Platinum, 97 points


100% Kisi


Rather exotic smoked/dried mango aromatics. There’s some sweetness here to alleviate a little the purging bitterness that leaves the mouth clean, like marmalade made from grapefruit skins, leaving an almost Sichuan pepper numbness. Exhilarating, exceptional stuff!

Ščurek, Up Rebula, Goriška Brda, Primorska, Slovenia 2016

Platinum, 97 points

100% Rebula


Noticeable generosity on the nose, with oranges, pears, spices and some slightly floral notes. The palate is ripe, broad, generous and rounded with a lovely structure and plenty of apple and cinnamon spice characters. Really impressive!

Provins, Les Domaines Chapitre Heida, Valais, Switzerland 2018

Gold, 96 points

100% Païen

Beautiful nose of lifted floral Alpine flower, rose apple, lime leaf and tobacco, while the palate is laced with warm fruit and polished acidity.

Armenia Wine Factory, Tariri, Aragatsotn, Armenia 2017

Gold, 95 points

50% Kangun, 25% Chenin Blanc, 25% Aligoté

Youthful scents of nuts, lemons and hints of honeysuckle and beeswax. Fresh and zesty on the palate with a creamy and slightly nutty finish with lively, mouthwatering acidity.

Red

Secret Spot, Douro, Portugal 2016

Best in Show, 97 points

100% Field Blend

This dark, innately complex red wine is a testament to the astonishing potential of the Douro valley’s schist soils – and to the genetic old-vine patrimony which lies hidden there, deeply rooted and just waiting for sensitive vinification in order to find expression. That’s exactly what this wine has had. It’s not pretentiously oaky or shimmering with ambition; the fruited aromas, indeed, are almost gentle and discreet. The more you look, though, the more you will find. On the palate, too, the wine is relatively light-bodied and nimble on its feet, without a massive tannic presence. It’s that fruited complexity, once again, which hallmarks the wine’s quality, and which emerges with slow and meditative examination in the glass. This is a Douro classic of great purity and finesse.

Moretti Omero, Sagrantino di Montefalco, Umbria, Italy 2016

Best in Show, 97 points

100% Sagrantino

If you’ve never tried a Sagrantino di Montefalco, you’re in for a surprise – or a shock. This indigenous Umbrian speciality is hugely characterful, and perfectly illustrates Italy’s almost limitless capacity for wine intrigue. It’s a dark wine, and this oaked example smells brooding, almost smoky but complex, too: the smell of the hills in autumn. It’s deep and fiercely intense as well as amply tannic – but not harsh for all that, since the wild forest plum fruits are sweet and sumptuous, and those tannins bond happily both to the fruits as well as to the wine’s glycerol and oak chamfering. It is, in sum, a complete original – but our judges loved it, so there’s a good chance that readers might too.

Familia Torres, Grans Muralles, Conca de Barberà, Spain 2016

Best in Show, 97 points

33% Garnacha, 33% Cariñena, 33% Querol

Perhaps it’s the 33 per cent Querol component, but from the very first moment you approach this brooding, black-purple wine, something marks it out as exceptional and different from its regional peers. There’s drama in the aromas; the sweet black fruits also seem to smell of crushed stone and seed spice. Once in the mouth, the wine is close-knit, vital with inner gathered force. The fruits are more complex than the aromas had suggested once on the palate; they are gently acid-sustained, and those crushed-stone flavours are present on the tongue, too. This is an unusually complete and commanding Conca de Barberà with plenty of cellar years ahead of it.

Teliani Valley, Winery 97, Unfiltered Saperavi, Kakheti, Georgia 2019

Platinum, 97 points

100% Saperavi

This has very primary, spicy black cherry/mulberry aromatics. The palate has grainy tannins, nice freshness, subtle oak and juicy, very ripe fruit. Consider laying this youthful wine down as a test of fortitude and patience.

Jungić, Premium Cabernet Sauvignon, Bosnia – Herzegovina 2015

Gold, 95 points

100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Classy and perfumed bold nose of cassis, black cherry and smart oak. Concentrated palate of red and black fruits with intense and supple tannins; smart wine.

Shiloh Winery, Mosaic Exclusive Edition, Shiloh, Judean Hills, Israel 2017

Gold, 95 points

38% Syrah, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot

Lifted, floral violet, luscious red berry fruit and spice aromas on the nose, while the palate is graced vibrant fruit, leather and a beautiful mineral finish.

Niki Hills, Yuhzome Zweigeltrebe, Yoichi, Hokkaido, Japan 2018

Gold, 95 points

100% Zweigelt

Resplendent scents of herbs, spice, pepper and red stone fruits. The palate is gamey with a herbal note, chalky tannins. Very long finish. Bravo!

Sweet

Provins, Les Domaines Tourbillon Sélection Grains Noble, Valais, Switzerland 2015

Best in Show, 97 points

100% Petite Arvine

An exceptional showing from Switzerland in this year’s DWWA presented our judges with a panoply of exciting specialties. In the end, the wine which made it through to our Best In Show selection was this gracious, nuanced and decidedly Alpine dessert wine made from the indigenous Valais variety Petite Arvine. The colour is a rich and glowing yellow, yet the aromas seem to bring a breath of fresh mountain air with them, full of the herbs and flowers of the high pastures. It’s amply sweet (enough to partner desserts), yet that freshness and poise never leaves it, and there is even a hint of herb and blossom in the final candied note.

Denbies, The Brokes Botrytis Ortega, Surrey, United Kingdom 2016

Gold, 96 points

100% Ortega

Dense and concentrated, with excellent fruit. This is elegant, complex and rounded, revealing nectarine, honey, candied lemon and brown sugar, with enlivening acidity giving it a moreish character.

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Search all DWWA 2020 award-winning wines

DWWA 2021 entries are open – Enter now

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The province of Rías Baixas, home to Mar de Frades winery, may not immediately strike you as being the spiritual home of one of the finest white varietals, Albariño; it arguably lacks the aesthetically dramatic calling cards of more renowned regions. The vineyards sit low – rarely above 300m – while the winters are mild and characterised by Atlantic-driven rains which regularly linger, uninvited, into spring and summer.

Yet, despite the bruising climate the grape, which has been cultivated in Rías Baixas for over 1,000 years, has come to fit like a glove, with its thick skins providing protection from rot and the free-draining, sand-over-granite soils ensuring the vines avoid saturation.

Mar de Frades was established in 1987, one year before Rías Baixas achieved DO status, so has been intrinsic to the region’s burgeoning reputation and success, riding a wave as consumers’ thirsts switched from barrel-aged whites to more immediately rewarding, refreshing wines.

One of the leading exponents of the region’s every-evolving styles, Mar de Frades has more recently begun to shine a light on Albariño’s extraordinary and underappreciated ageing potential. It’s acidity and pH levels bear striking resemblance to those found in Riesling, and further parallels rise to the surface as the wines age, with distinct notes of petrol and almonds revealing themselves over the years.

Mar de Frades Finca Valiñas is an archetypal example of an Albariño built to age, with the 2016 release only recently seeing the light of day following four years maturing – without oak – in the cellar. It’s a wine which began life in a vineyard planted in 1975 on a hillside in Salinés Valley, with outcrops of granite reinforcing the grapes’ inherent acidity and which, combined with the vineyard’s altitude, form the sturdy backbone needed for longevity.

Following fermentation, the wine sits on its lees for one year, followed by two years of battonage (lees stirring) combined with further rest, before a final year of bottle ageing.

It’s a wine with an indisputable ability to develop and improve, according to Mar de Frades winemaker, Paula Fandiño: ‘Finca Valiñas has an ageing potential of at least 10 years,’ she states. ‘When we open old vintages of our Albariños, we discover notes of salinity, minerality and iodine which remind us of Galician canneries, mussels and pickles.’

Fandiño believes that it is preserving this regional essence which is key to the progression and future success of Rías Baixas, while at the same time pursuing practices that realise the magnificent ageing potential of Albariño. ‘Our terroir, climate and viticultural traditions are fundamental in differentiating and defining the character of our Albariño,’ she says.

‘We need to age the wines in different materials including granite, clay and concrete as well as stainless steel. We must treat the lees carefully, using battonage, or letting the wines rest on their own fine lees for months or even years, before finally ageing even further in tank or bottle. In doing so, we produce singular, long-lived wines which speak of Albariño and Galicia, and will remain in the memory of wine lovers.’

www.mardefrades.es

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Susy Atkins, Romain Bourger and Keith Kirkpatrick tasted 56 affordable California whites with 16 recommended wines.

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The verdict

While Chardonnay (in 35 of 56 entries) dominated this tasting, it wasn’t the whole story. As with the less-traditional grape varieties fielded for the reds, our expert panel was excited to see an eclectic mix among the remaining whites. ‘I was quite impressed to see Fiano, Grenache, Grüner Veltliner, Chenin Blanc… I think there were some really nice wines in there,’ said Keith Kirkpatrick. ‘They may struggle to be competitive at their price points in the UK, but they were thoroughly enjoyable wines to drink.’

Romain Bourger agreed: ‘I actually preferred these lesser-known varieties to the Chardonnays. It’s always interesting to taste different examples around the world of, say, Albariño, Grüner Veltliner and white Italian varieties. Even the Rieslings were easy-drinking with good aromatics.’

Susy Atkins noted that many ‘lacked the crisp acidity and freshness – that varietal clout – that you’d see in their European equivalents, but it’s great to see such interest and variety is on offer, particularly for US drinkers.’

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Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top affordable California white wines

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Turning their attention to Chardonnay, Bourger noted a real improvement in Chardonnay quality from the more southern AVAs. ‘Santa Cruz, Monterey, Santa Barbara County – these areas for me scored relatively well,’ he noted. ‘We don’t know the prices, but I would expect great value for money from these regions. Fantastic, more elegant Chardonnay compared with many northern areas.’

The Chardonnays did come in for some criticism, however. ‘We failed to find any absolute stars’, noted Atkins, while Kirkpatrick felt producers hadn’t ‘moved with the times’ with this variety as much as with others. ‘At this price point, it seems they are sticking rigidly to the same winemaking methods they’ve been using for the past 20 or 30 years,’ he said. ‘There’s still too much obvious oak, too much heat from the alcohol, some unnecessary sweetness and not enough fresh, pure fruit character coming through.’

Kirkpatrick said there was no doubt that California could deliver lovely expressions of Chardonnay at a premium price, but ‘in this middle ground, it looks like producers are still working too hard to try to elevate what is essentially a simple, entry- level wine by throwing money – oak – at it, rather than focusing on getting really good fruit and the most elegant expression they can.’

Atkins defended the oak use in certain examples. ‘Some are good, honest, oaked California Chardonnays, and why shouldn’t they be?’ She did, however, have a problem with acidity. ‘Some of the Chardonnays were hot and flabby, lacking acidity. Then others had too much, with producers trying too hard to get a fresh finish, so we ended up with pithy, sour wines.

‘Getting that balance right still seems an issue in California,’ she said. ‘For the Sauvignon Blancs, as well, many of which were quite clumsy in relation to what we find from Europe.’

Bourger was particularly impressed by the small number of sparkling wines that were entered. ‘Regrettably we don’t see as many as we should in the UK, as they are consistently very good,’ he said. ‘Yes, some were quite rich and full, but that is sunny California! But they still had good balance with enough acidity and freshness.’ Atkins was encouraged by the quality and hoped UK consumers would see more sparkling wines in this price range, while Kirkpatrick praised those that had undergone judicious barrel fermentation and ageing.

Discussion copy by Tina Gellie

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The affordable California whites scores:

56 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly Recommended 16

Recommended 25

Commended 9

Fair 5

Poor 0

Faulty 1

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About affordable California whites

Can the Golden State’s white wines provide value, interest and balance at the £30/$30 level? After assessing the reds last month, we turn our focus to mid-priced whites. Susy Atkins poses the questions

California white wine is almost synonymous with Chardonnay. It’s the state’s most widely planted grape variety of all, with nearly 37,800ha in 2017. And anyone who thinks it’s going out of fashion should think again. Chardonnay has been California’s leading grape for the past decade with sales increases every year, according to the California Wine Institute.

It was not always so. Although plantings of the grape date back to the late 19th century, its use was somewhat limited for a long time, mainly due to the perception that Chardonnay gave low yields. During Prohibition, 1920-1933, many Chardonnay vineyards were replaced with varieties that had thicker skins, such as Zinfandel, which were seen as hardier.

It wasn’t until the 1970s that Chardonnay’s popularity started to rise significantly. Today, Monterey AVA has the most plantings, at about 6,880ha, many vast vineyards there filling the valley floor. Sonoma is second with 6,313ha, and the hotter San Joaquin region to the east of San Francisco is third with a little more than 5,260ha.

The idea that less expensive California Chardonnay is uniform in style – sweetish, over-oaky and strong – is misguided. Chardonnay can be chameleon-like here as elsewhere, and styles are diverse, from ripe and juicy, tropical-fruited versions to crisper, zestier ones often hailing from cooler spots and, of course, a proportion that have a vanilla and butterscotch, sometimes toasty oak character.

Our tasting was an opportunity to see which of these stylistic interpretations performed best – and from which AVAs.

The late 20th century saw many plantings of Chardonnay in cooler regions with coastal influence or higher altitudes. Did the wines from these vineyards make it into our best buys under £30/$30, though, or are they more premium whites commanding higher price tags? Does the use of expensive oak barrels mean few wines in this style make it into our best buys?

That said, California Chardonnay grapes are relatively cheap at an average of $924 per tonne, compared to Pinot Noir at $1,688 and Cabernet Sauvignon at $1,553, so perhaps it ought to be easier to make good examples at an affordable price.

Beyond Chardonnay

While Chardonnay dominated, there were several Sauvignon Blancs – but can California ever compete with Chile for value for money with this variety, and in what style? (Is fumé passé?)

Riesling is a grape now more associated with Washington State and the Finger Lakes in New York State, but back in the 1960s it was one of the top grapes in California. It fell out of favour in the 1980s, seen as unfashionable and often too sweet, but there’s some indication of a revival of interest of late. Pinot Gris, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Albariño and even Grüner Veltliner were all represented in the tasting too. Can any grape begin to rival Chardonnay as the queen of California whites under £30/$30? Let’s find out.

Top scoring California whites under £30 / $30

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The judges

Susy Atkins

Atkins is a widely published and awarded wine writer and presenter, weekly drinks columnist for The Sunday Telegraph and wine editor of Delicious magazine. The author of 11 books on wine and drinks, she has appeared as a wine expert on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen show over 12 years. www.susyatkins.co.uk

Romain Bourger

Bourger is head sommelier at The Vineyard at Stockcross, owned by Sir Peter Michael and one of the UK’s top specialists in California wine. He studied hospitality and catering in Moselle before starting out in 2008 as a sommelier at Hotel du Vin Winchester. He won the Taittinger UK Sommelier of the Year competition in 2019

Keith Kirkpatrick

Kirkpatrick is a buyer for Roberson Wine – winner in the USA Specialist category in the 2020 Decanter Retailer Awards. He began his career as a sommelier in Belfast in the late 1990s, then moved to London and joined retailer Oddbins in 2000, taking on a new role in on-trade sales in 2009 before joining Roberson a year later

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‘The “cocktail” is a modern invention, and is generally used on fishing and other sporting parties, although some patients insist that it is good in the morning as a tonic.’

Given that Jerry Thomas wrote these words in 1862 (in his seminal book, The Bar-Tender’s Guide), it’s unlikely that he was extolling the virtues of early-morning lockdown drinking – but the pandemic has given us all the opportunity to up our game when it comes to home mixology.

Not all of us, however, have the skills, equipment or ingredients necessary to replicate the style bar experience in our own living rooms, so it’s good to know that the quality of premixed, ready made cocktails has never been higher – from specialist producers, and from some of the top bars we’ve all missed visiting so much over the past year.

You might need to break out the cocktail shaker to get the best out of one or two of these, but most require very little effort indeed: just chill, pour and enjoy.

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Best ready made cocktails: Seven to try

Hawksmoor

The steak restaurant chain is as well-known for the excellence of its drinks as for the quality of its beef – and the theme continues with a superlative range of bottled and canned cocktails. This is a series of tweaked and twisted classics, from a pin-sharp Ultimate Dry Martini to the fiery smoke of the Back Burner spicy margarita.

Pick of the range: Fuller-fat Old Fashioned. Brown butter and tonka bean pair brilliantly with Woodford Reserve Bourbon to create a toasty, oaky delight.

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Speakeasy At Home

Via a ‘Sipscription Service’, monthly themed boxes of cocktails are created by three of London’s leading bars: Nightjar, Oriole and Swift. The drinks, supplied in 220ml pouches, are original creations, and come with their own music playlist, garnishes and bartender video. This month it’s a Valentine theme; future boxes will explore Cinco de Mayo, Save the Bees and Hallowe’en.

Pick of the range: The Highlander (Oriole). Indulgent but beautifully balanced combination of Glenmorangie, dark chocolate wine, honey bush nectar and lemon.

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World of Zing

A business started by Pritesh Mody (cocktail expert on Channel 4’s Sunday Brunch) and a leading supplier to bars, restaurants and hotels – now pivoting its business model to sell straight to the consumer during the pandemic.

The Spirit of Zing range of bottled cocktails (250ml or 500ml) is extensive and quality is consistently high, from the Bordeaux cask-aged Negroni to the Steel-aged Manhattan and a dangerously enjoyable Strawberry and Basil Mojito.

Pick of the range: Persian Lime and Nori Margarita. A cocktail cliché has new life breathed into it thanks to a zippy blend of nori (seaweed) bitters, dried Persian lime and Don Julio Tequila.

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Urban Bar

Best-known as a supplier of bar equipment and glassware, Urban Bar has branched out during the pandemic to sell spirits – and a three-strong range of premixed cocktails created by mixologist Giancarlo Mancini and sold via Amazon.

Supplied in 50cl bottles with Italian vermouth to the fore, there’s a punchy Espresso Martini, a refreshing Spritz Italiano to combine with prosecco or sparkling water – and, given the Italian provenance of the range, the inevitable Negroni.

Pick of the range: Negroni. Made in Italy using London Dry gin, Vermouth di Torino Rosso and Bianco, and Rinomato Bitter Scuro, this is a classic, pleasingly bitter drink perfect for those Zoom aperitivo moments.

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The Wolseley Collection Take Home Cocktails (Fischer’s, Marylebone Village) 

Another superb set of two-serve (250ml) cocktails developed for The Wolseley by the bar team at Fischer’s in Marylebone Village – so fresh that three out of the five have to be consumed within three days of delivery. The emphasis is on the classics – Margarita, Daiquiri, Negroni, Manhattan and English Rose – executed with brilliant simplicity.

Pick of the range: Hemingway Daiquiri. It’ll be a while before any of us can jet off to Havana, but in the meantime this zingy, ultra-fresh combination of rum, grapefruit, lime and maraschino liqueur is a Caribbean delight.

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MOTH (Mix of Total Happiness)

Exclusive to Waitrose for three months from February, these are single-serve (125ml) canned cocktails at a more wallet-friendly price (£3.99) than style bar offerings. Crowd-pleasing classics on offer include a Negroni, Espresso Martini, Old Fashioned and Margarita, while the hip packaging has a craft beer feel about it.

Pick of the range: Espresso Martini. Getting the strength right is key to any cocktail. Where 14.9% abv feels a tad underpowered for the MOTH Margarita, it’s bang-on for this wonderful mix of Wood Bros Winter Wheat vodka, cold brew coffee and coffee liqueur.

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New Breed Bottle Shop

Opening a new independent retail venture in the middle of a pandemic scores you points for courage, if nothing else. This Loughton store delivers nationwide from its online shop, including bottled cocktails from acclaimed Dalston bar Three Sheets, canned premixes from the East London Liquor Co – and single-serve (95ml) bottled cocktails from the excellent Bottle Proof. The range is extensive and well worth exploring.

Pick of the range: Old Fashioned (Bottle Proof). Not as high-octane as the Hawksmoor example, but still hugely expressive and excellent value for money.

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Best whiskies for cocktails

Champagne cocktails to make at home

The name Ribera del Duero is well known by lovers of Spanish fine wines today. But in the early 20th century, it was a very different story. At that time the DO didn’t even exist and there were few wineries in this part of northwest Spain.

The story begins with Bodegas Protos, established in Ribera in 1927. The pioneers were a group of 11 childhood friends, who set up their winery in the dramatic hilltop castle town of Peñafiel. Appropriately, the winery took its name from the Greek word ‘protos’ (πρῶτος) meaning ‘first’.

The venture proved to be an immediate success, when its first vintages –1927 and 1928 were awarded gold medals at the Universal Exposition of Barcelona in 1929. No wonder the winery’s motto is ser primero: be first.

Over subsequent decades, Protos continued to pursue excellence in its wines, expanding as more families joined the venture. In 1970 it constructed a winery purpose-built for the ageing of its red wines, with over 2km of underground tunnels running beneath Peñafiel Castle.

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Protos at a glance

• Established: 1927
• Vineyards: 1,600ha
• Vignerons: 250
• Employees: 65

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There’s little doubt that the efforts of Protos shone a light on the potential of the whole Ribera del Duero region and the complex elegant reds it produces. Indeed the winery was once known as Protos Bodega Ribera Duero de Peñafiel; Protos graciously allowed the use of its name for the greater good when the official Ribera del Duero DO was established in 1982.

Fast-forward to today and Bodegas Protos now works with more than 250 local growers and over 1,600ha of vines – half of which it owns, the rest is managed under long-term contracts. Three of the founders’ grandchildren sit on the board of directors.

Continued success has led to the setting up of three specialised wineries: one in Ribera for reds, one in Rueda for whites and one in Cigales for rosés. The company’s stunning main winery in Peñafiel, designed by famous British architect Sir Richard Rogers and opened in 2008, hosts over 40,000 visitors a year, making it one of the region’s most-visited tourist attractions.

The award-winning Protos range of 11 wines includes fresh, zesty Verdejos from Rueda, vibrant rosados from Cigales and serious barrel-aged Tempranillo reds from Ribera del Duero. But Protos is constantly striving to improve and innovate, both in the winery – with new techniques and modern equipment – and in its vineyards.

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Protos: key dates

• 1927: Protos was established, the first winery in Ribera del Duero
• 1970: Opening of an ageing winery with underground cellars, under Peñafiel castle
• 2006: Opening of a winery in Rueda for white wines
• 2008: Opening of a new winery in Peñafiel, designed by Sir Richard Rogers and Alonso Balaguer
• 2019: Protos is the most-visited winery in Ribera del Duero, with 38,000 visitors
• 2020: Opening of a new winery in Cigales for rosé wines

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The team includes dedicated viticulturists and agricultural engineers, who have analysed the vineyards plot-by-plot, to determine how Tempranillo clones adapt to different soils and microclimates. This precision viticulture has allowed Protos to fine-tune its harvest dates and preserve the unique characteristics of its vines.

The company is also committed to preserving its legacy for future generations, with a dedicated environmental policy that includes converting all of its vineyards to organic agriculture. Each of its energy-efficient wineries is powered by solar farms.

This forward-thinking approach has always been at the heart of Protos. It’s an example of the pioneering spirit that enables the winery and its wines to continually evolve and deliver the quality that is exemplified in its motto: ser primero – be first.

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Bodegas Protos Verdejo Rueda 2019 – 90 pts

Attractive aromas of guava, pink grapefruit and peardrops, with a hint of fennel. Rounded mid-palate, lively acidity and a long, fresh finish. Drink 2020-2022. Alc 13%

Bodegas Protos Verdejo Reserva Rueda 2018 – 92 pts

The oak masks some of the grape’s punchy aromatics, but enhances the voluptuously textural mid-palate. The fruit (grapefruit and pineapple) is most noticeable on the lively, persistent finish, which is also tinged with spice and smoke. Drink 2020-2024. Alc 13%

Bodegas Protos Reserva Ribera del Duero 2015 – 93 pts

Seems much younger than the 2014 Reserva. Plush, generous palate with notes of dried herbs and damsons. Oak spice adds complexity and richness. Grippy tannins lend support. Drink 2020-2026. Alc 15%

Bodegas Protos Gran Reserva Ribera del Duero 2012 – 90 pts

A dense, powerful wine with a nice balance of primary (dark plum and cherry) and tertiary notes (truffle, smoke, tobacco leaf). Tannins still fairly firm and a bit dry on the finish, which shows a touch of warmth. Drink 2020-2024. Alc 14%

Bodegas Protos 27 Ribera del Duero 2017 – 91 pts

Red cherry and dark plums, with just a suggestion of woody herbs and fennel and a touch of smoky oak. The tannins are quite chunky, adding heft to the palate. Drink 2020-2025. Alc 14.5%

Bodegas Protos Protos Finca El Grajo Viejo Ribera del Duero 2016 – 90 pts

A glossy, ambitious wine of great concentration and depth. Firm tannins promise longevity and there’s a generous dollop of oak spice to add complexity. So well balanced that the alcohol barely shows on the long finish. One for those who like their wines heady and powerful. Drink 2020-2030. Alc 15%

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To find out more visit: www.bodegasprotos.com/en/

Ideas for wines to drink with Pancakes:

Pancake type	Wine style
Sugar & Lemon	Moscato d’Asti, Prosecco
Cheese and ham	Gavi di Gavi, Muscadet or Pinot Blanc
Chocolate	Recioto Valpolicella, Banyuls, or try Barolo Chinato
Rhubarb and cream	Loire Chenin Blanc, Off-dry Riesling – Or perhaps Normandy cider

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Whether you’re planning your Shrove Tuesday menu or a weekend treat, the decision about what to drink with pancakes comes down to the filling.

What you decide to top, fill or wrap your pancakes with can affect your drinking options. Here are some suggestions for some of the more popular toppings you might decide on.

Wine with sugar and lemon pancakes

It’s a classic for a reason, and it remains a very popular topping. Simple, sweet and with the tang of citrus acid.

A light, slightly sweet yet refreshing Moscato d’Asti would wash these down well, or a Prosecco would work. If you can find it, try a Clairette de Die from the Rhône Valley, too. If you’re looking beyond wine, put a bottle of Limoncello in the fridge.

Fruit filling

In a previous masterclass at Le Cordon Bleu London, we created Pancakes with a touch of ginger and accompanied with rhubarb and Apple.

It’s stepping beyond wine, but Matthieu Longuère MS, of Le Cordon Bleu London, had pre-selected, vintage-dated dry cider from Domaine Eric Bordelet.

‘Finding a pairing for this dish is a no brainer, pancakes are known as crêpes in France,’ he said.

‘In crêperies all around the world the accompaniment is invariably cider. Here the pancakes are paired with tangy seasonal rhubarb and soothed by a good dollop of clotted cream,’ he said at the class.

He said the vintage-dated Château de Hauteville ‘Argelette Sydre’ from Bordelet had a bursting apple flavour that was very refreshing with the pancake.

‘Although it is not a sweet cider, it is so ripe and fruity that is not going to clash with the compote and its crisp acidity will refresh the palate in between bites,’ he said.

‘Sydre is made from 20 different varieties of hand-picked cider apple, sweet, bitter or sour, grown on schist soil. The apples are grated and left to ferment for up to 6 months. It is a true vintage cider and can be kept for several years after the harvest. A real Grand Cru!’

A wine alternative to this serious cider might be a Loire Chenin Blanc or an off-dry Riesling from Germany.

If you have a sweet tooth and maple syrup or apricots are involved then you could also look to the sweet wine enclaves of Sauternes and Barsac – or Monbazillac – in Bordeaux.

Savoury cheese and ham pancakes

Again, reaching for the cider would be a wonderful match with this savoury pancake. If you fancy a glass of wine, Pinot Blanc, Muscadet or Gavi di Gavi are all great options.

Chocolate sauce

While a lot of people might associate dry red wine with chocolate, you cannot beat a sweet red like Recioto Valpolicella or a red Banyuls to bring chocolate to life.

If you can’t dig these out, a really fruity, new world red with low tannin could also work.

Salmon

It has so be a Champagne or a traditional method sparkling wine with enough freshness and acidity to cut through the batter mix and bring the salmon to life.

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Wines to drink with pancakes: Recent reviews by our experts

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Copy for this article was written by Harry Fawkes in 2017, following a pancake masterclass with Tom Brown at Le Cordon Bleu London and the school’s Matthieu Longuère MS. It has been edited in February 2021, with new wine reviews added (below).

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New York City is home to one of the greatest wine scenes in the world. No matter where you are in the Big Apple, an extensive and globally curated wine list is never more than a few steps away. New York dwellers and short-term visitors alike love to drink wine, and from swanky rooftop bars to classic New York steakhouses to quaint backyard garden bars in Brooklyn, finding a venue that matches your mood is not a difficult feat. Simply put, if you want to drink a knock-out wine, New York has just the place for you to do so.

In a city with such a robust wine culture, things are constantly changing. But thankfully, when it comes to the classics, some things stay the same – including Bordeaux’s presence in the city’s wine-drinking repertoire. Trends and regions may come and go, but Bordeaux is a constant. From first- growth favourites and legendary vintages to natural and low-intervention bottlings from Bordeaux’s newest up-and-coming winemakers, New York City has it all – and its world-class sommeliers are ready to fill your glass with whatever takes your fancy.

For the best Bordeaux selections that New York has to offer, look no further than these 10 wine bars and retail shops.

Le Coucou

Modern take on classic French favourites

For classic French cuisine served alongside a comprehensive Bordeaux selection, check out Le Coucou. This fine French dining establishment sits in the heart of New York’s bustling SoHo neighbourhood and is the brainchild of restaurateur Stephen Starr and chef Daniel Rose. Traditional bistro favourites are redone with a breath of fresh air and served in an ambience of classicism-meets-modernity. Le Coucou’s Bordeaux selection ranges from an extensive list of classics to lesser-known hidden gems, some of which run for less than $100 a bottle. Though if you’re looking to drop a solid $4,000-plus on a 2000 vitnage Château Lafite Rothschild, the option’s also there. For a modern and all-encompassing take on Bordeaux wine served in a lofty and sophisticated atmosphere, this refined restaurant should be top of the list.

• Address: 138 Lafayette St, NY 10013

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Le Crocodile

Bordeaux for the natural wine enthusiast

Not all Bordeaux screams tradition, and what better place to go for a modern take on regional vinification than Brooklyn’s Williamsburg neighbourhood? Tucked inside the Wythe Hotel, this friendly brasserie (pictured top) founded by chefs Jake Leiber and Aidan O’Neal (both formerly of Chez Ma Tante) with restaurateur Jon Neidich is best known for its traditional French fare and whimsical by-the- glass selection. Expect hearty bistro favourites (such as steak au poivre and roast chicken with herb jus and fries, to name but two) paired with unconventional wine pours from France’s classic regions. Le Crocodile is currently serving Clos Puy Arnaud’s La Cuvée Bistrot by the glass, as well as 15 more reds by the bottle (Château Beychevelle, St-Julien 1976 will set you back just $240). Classic French dining with a Brooklyn twist? Count us in.

• Address: 80 Wythe Ave, NY 11249

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Bacchus

Land of large format

Looking to drink big, literally? This unpretentious Brooklyn-based bistro, located in the city’s quaint and cosy Boerum Hill neighbourhood, offers a selection of organic, sustainable and biodynamic Bordeaux wines, many of which come in large-format bottles. For big groups seeking out the joys of Bordeaux magnums, jeroboams and more, paired with French onion soup, moules marinière, braised lamb shanks, or other French favourites, Bacchus’ back garden provides the perfect ambience for sipping and savouring. The wine bar even features a special cave cachée (hidden cave) for imbibers searching to splurge on rare pours of Pétrus, Château d’Yquem and other legendary Bordeaux greats.

• Address: 409-411 Atlantic Ave, NY 11217

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Casa Lever

Where France meets Italy

When Brunello or Barolo simply won’t do the trick, a rich yet restrained red from Bordeaux should fit the bill. Tucked away on New York’s wealthy Upper East Side, Italian restaurant Casa Lever is home to one of the city’s best Bordeaux lists in a non-French restaurant setting. The signature meat-heavy pasta sauces, simply cooked manzo (beef) and ossobuco alla Milanese are simply delightful when matched with a robust Bordeaux from the cellar’s extensive list. Modestly priced bottles start at just $95, including wines from Châteaux Lagrange in St-Julien and Ormes de Pez, St-Estèphe, and there are plenty of pricier offerings to be found, such as Châteaux La Conseillante and Petrus from Pomerol. For chic Italian dining with a French twist, grab a cab uptown and make it a Park Avenue affair.

• Address: 390 Park Ave, NY 10022

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Morrell Wine Bar

Have your Bordeaux (and take it home)

Opened in 1947, this long-standing wine bar/wine shop hybrid is located in the heart of midtown Manhattan and has an ample amount Casa Lever Morrell Wine Bar


of Bordeaux references for consuming both on or off the premises. Whether a by-the-glass pour, half-bottle or more strikes your mood, sip it here against the backdrop of New York’s famed Rockefeller Plaza. Classic Mediterranean-inspired small plates, charcuterie boards, caviar and oysters are just a few of the many food selections available on the all-day menu. The bar pours seven red Bordeaux selections, including Château Latour’s Pauillac de Latour 2012, as well as lesser-known Haut-Médoc options and more by the glass, ranging from $18-$55 per pour. For those looking to continue imbibing past on-premise hours, the bar’s iconic wine shop has plenty of bottles to go.

• Address: 1 Rockefeller Plaza, NY 10020

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The Grill

Iconic steakhouse, robust Bordeaux list

Should you want to drink old-school Bordeaux in a quintessential New York setting, The Grill is just the ticket. Situated in the luxurious location of the former Four Seasons restaurant, The Grill is aiming to build the largest and most diverse wine list in all of New York City, and its Bordeaux section is no exception. For those seeking to drink legendary vintages from iconic producers alongside elevated cuisine, this award-winning list is a great place to start. Best of all, The Grill offers nearly 50 classic red Bordeaux selections by the half-bottle, perfect for those looking to dabble in a variety of producers (Châteaux Latour, Lynch-Bages and Margaux occupy almost 20% of this selection).

• Address: 99 E 52nd St, NY 10022

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Terroir

Laid-back drinking, by-the-glass options

This unpretentious, Tribeca-based wine bar is the brainchild of Paul Grieco, one of New York’s most legendary sommeliers. After working in some of the city’s most high-profile restaurants, Grieco opened this low-key wine bar with the intention of bringing laid-back wine drinking and education to the people of New York. Grieco offers one of the city’s largest by-the-glass selections, featuring a slew of Bordeaux options at any given moment. Terroir is also known for its curated wine flights, which frequently come equipped with maps and visual collateral. If you’re looking to educate yourself on Bordeaux’s best in an informal environment, then this brick-lined gem is just the place.

• Address: 24 Harrison St, NY 10013

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Momofuku Kāwi

Unconventional food pairings

This newly opened restaurant in Manhattan’s up-and-coming Hudson Yards neighbourhood is ideal for those who want to sip Bordeaux alongside classic Korean favourites. Momofuku Kāwi’s beverage director, Isabella Fitzgerald, cleverly integrates the first growths alongside inexpensive by-the-glass picks, ensuring that every client’s ideal price point is met. Although highly underrated, the restaurant’s white Bordeaux selection (there’s good choice by the bottle) and Asian-influenced seafood dishes, as well as Cabernet-dominant reds and Korean steakhouse staples, make for some of the best unconventional food-and-wine matches in the city. For those looking for something off the beaten path, snag a bottle of Amélie Constant’s Crémant de Bordeaux (a Merlot-Cabernet Franc blend) for just $62 a bottle to start your meal on a high note.

• Address: 20 Hudson Yards, NY 100001

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Millesima USA

NYC’s best Bordeaux retail

In the realm of Bordeaux retail, Millesima is undoubtedly New York City’s authority. Founded in 1983, the company proudly boasts 2.5 million bottles in its cellar, with a strong emphasis on Bordeaux past, present and ‘futures’; indeed, it has become synonymous with selling futures. For collectors looking to stock their personal cellars at the hands of bona-fide Bordeaux experts, seeking service from Millesima’s highly qualified staff guarantees customised top-notch service. However, this Upper East Side store front isn’t just for cellar holders. Crisp whites from Entre- deux-Mers can be found for as little as $12.99, and there are plenty of juicy cru bourgeois reds below the $20 price point. For the city’s best selection of off-premise Bordeaux, there’s really no better place to shop.

• Address: 1355 2nd Ave, NY 10021

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Waverly Inn

A sweet situation

This West Village institution boasts American comfort food, a sizeable Bordeaux list and a brilliant back garden perfect for indulging in both. Waverly’s wine director Jeff Harding has a passion for Bordeaux and its wines, particularly the sweet selections from Sauternes. ‘I carry Bordeaux because we are a fairly old New York classic restaurant and we aim for a similar style wine list,’ he says. ‘As many sommeliers have gone exploring wild and wonderful places, I’ve doubled down on the classics and it has been very rewarding.’ Harding also emphasises Bordeaux’s underrated food-friendliness with vegetarian cuisine through regularly scheduled special events and dinners. With more than 100 references on its list, Waverly Inn’s quaint and cosy ambience makes it the ultimate place to drink away from the bustle of downtown Manhattan.

• Address: 16 Bank St, NY 10014

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First published in the Decanter magazine 2020 Bordeaux guide.

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Gin from Europe?’ you might be thinking. ‘Is nothing sacred?’ After all, gin is as proudly British as fish and chips, Tesco and Fray Bentons meat pies. This is correct – but only in so far as none of the above are strictly British inventions, either. The first chippie was set up by a Jewish immigrant, the first Tesco was established by the son of Polish arrivals, and Fray Bentos was first manufactured in Uruguay.

As for gin, well, gin began in Holland, with medieval monks who flavoured distillates with juniper for medicinal purposes. Dutch distilleries continued this practice in the 17th century, and their genever (Dutch for juniper) was mostly used for medicinal reasons; though British soldiers fighting in the Eighty Years’ War reputedly found it useful for relieving pre-battle nerves, hence the term ‘Dutch courage’. Before long, it was well established in Britain – a proudly Protestant spirit that had the backing of the country’s rulers over untrustworthy Catholic brandies. At least, it did until they realised that swathes of the country were happily drinking themselves insensible on a daily basis. This ultimately led to greater regulation for gin production.

Sweeter ‘Old Tom’ style gins were popular, probably because the sugar helped to mask some of the more undesirable characteristics in the spirit. The (unsweetened) London Dry style was already established by the likes of Alexander Gordon (Gordon’s) and Plymouth’s Black Friars Distillery (now Plymouth Gin) in the 18th century.

Gindustrial revolution

London Dry received a major boost with the invention in the 1830s of the Coffey still (an efficient, two-column vertical design that can be operated continuously). Suddenly, it was a lot easier to make gin that was elegant, refined, and better showcased the botanicals that were part of the drink.

By 1870, the likes of Tanqueray and Beefeater were established, and things ticked along happily until 2008, when newcomer Sipsmith wanted to set up its distillery. Its 300-litre still, however, was too small; the minimum size permitted was 1,800 litres – a measure introduced almost 200 years previously to prevent people distilling small batches of moonshine at home.

This was sensibly deemed less of a problem in 21st-century Britain, so the law was changed, and the floodgates opened for small-batch gin production.

The resulting British ginaissance has spread worldwide, and particularly across Europe. Spain might have had its ‘gintonica’ fashion for years (huge balloon glasses with massive free-poured measures of spirit and minimal tonic), but consumption – and production – has skyrocketed in other countries, too.

The thing about gin is that it can have regional expression. It’s glib to call it terroir, but some versions do have a strong local accent. Spanish and Italian distilleries, for instance, use a lot of fresh citrus fruits as botanicals, while their French counterparts are elegant and correct. Scandinavians seem more interested in texture, mouthfeel and botanicals such as native plants and grasses.

It all makes for a fascinating category, with a wide array of styles and extraordinary energy. Pick up three or four of the gins mentioned here and try them against each other in multiple classic gin cocktails. We might not be able to travel at the moment, but at least our palates can still go on a juniper-led voyage of discovery.

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BENELUX

Netherlands

Bobby’s Schiedam Dry

Inspired by the founding family’s Indonesian-born grandfather, Bobby’s has an elegant sweet-spice nose, with grains of paradise and pink pepper. It’s quite Christmassy at first, with cinnamon and candied fruit but dries out nicely on the finish. It’s highly distinctive, but also surprisingly versatile. Good in a G&T, but works particularly well in a Negroni. Alc 42%

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Nolet’s Silver Dry

As you’d expect for the price tag, this is a classily packaged and beautifully made gin. But it’s not necessarily for everyone. There’s a short kick of juniper up front but it moves rapidly into layers of sweeter, fruitier, more perfumed flavours. It’s a cushiony hug, rather than a brisk juniper handshake. Distinctive and really smooth; you’d never know it was 47.6% abv. Well made. A good Martini gin if you like the profile, or in a Negroni for people who don’t like them too dry and bitter. Alc 47.6%

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Belgium

Copperhead

Created by a ‘pharmacist entrepreneur’ in 2013, Copperhead is absolutely on point. It’s a classical style of gin, so should appeal to lovers of Tanqueray or No3, but its aromas are perfectly in focus. Bright, brisk juniper leads into taut citrus and pricks of coriander spice before tailing into a gentle savoury earthiness on the finish. Very classy. Great G&T gin, though it will work in anything, frankly. Alc 40%

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FRANCE

Citadelle

Produced by the Cognac house Maison Ferrand, it’s no surprise that this is a beautifully crafted gin. It’s not showy – grassy and herbal with that characteristic juniper pine aroma on the nose – but it’s wonderfully clean and elegant on the palate, where layers of grasses and juniper intertwine and merge over a drier, earthier base, before giving way to a sweet citrus finish. Versatile, too. Works in any gin cocktail or as a G&T. Alc 44%

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Comte de Grasse 44°N

This gin tastes very much of its French Riviera home – not least because it’s expensive! The feel of the bottle owes more to a top-end perfume than a bottle of booze, and there’s some of that in the flavours, too. There’s definite juniper up front, but then many layers below and behind it. Warm red leather, higher grass elements, sweet and dry spices and building notes of musky white flowers. It wraps itself around the bitterness of tonic but is at its best in a highly distinctive Martini. Alc 44%

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Mistral

If the Comte de Grasse is out of your price range, you can still capture the feel of southern France in this well-priced Provence gin. As pale pink as the region’s famed rosé, there’s a dry ‘countryside in the heat’ feel to it, with flavours of peppercorns and thyme. It’s great with tonic, where there’s enough punch that the spirit is distinctly gin, but also a gentle sweetly aromatic finish. Summery. Alc 40%

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GERMANY

Elephant London Dry

Plenty of reasons to buy this German take on London Dry – not least the fact that it’s environmentally and socially sustainable and 15% of profits go to elephant conservation charities. African botanicals combine to create a gin that’s dry and junipery, with sweet-spice sparkles on the finish. Makes a good dry G&T. Alc 45%

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Monkey 47 Schwarzwald Dry

Nothing shy about this gin from the Black Forest. Monkey barges into your glass with all the decorum of a troupe of chimpanzees. It’s a fruited, complex, layered gin, with black, bright berries, a hint of liquorice and spiced herbs and grasses. Though there’s a lot happening here, it’s brilliantly balanced, and works in every format I’ve tried it in, from a G&T to a Martinez to a Negroni. Alc 47%

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Windspiel Premium Dry

Maybe it’s the greyhound on the label, but there’s a definite sleekness to Windspiel – perhaps down to the fact that its base spirit is made with potatoes. It’s super elegant: lots of juniper, citrus, candied lemon peel and a gentle hint of lavender on the finish, no sharp edges. The charm is its smooth, rich texture, made for an indulgent Martinez or (better) a quality Martini. Alc 47%

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ITALY

Ginato Pinot Grigio Gin

You can usually rely on the Italians for a bit of pizzazz in their packaging, and Ginato has a brilliant ’70s retro coolness to it. Flavour-wise, it’s pretty standard – a juniper hit with some candied tangerine peel. But, made with Pinot Grigio grapes, there’s an underlying sweetness to the palate that makes for a good summery G&T. Alc 43%

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VII Hills Italian Dry

Pretty is the word that springs to mind when you first nose VII Hills. It’s high toned and light footed – all citrus and white flowers, like playing the top two octaves of a piano. With tonic, this floral note becomes more pronounced, and the gin shows at its best in a Negroni, which brings out the citrus to create a classic, elegant cocktail. Alc 43%

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NORDICS

Sweden

Hernö

There are all the gin elements a traditionalist would want – but seen through a Scandinavian filter. It’s like rolling a lemon in your hands in a cool pine forest. That vibrant pine element becomes sweeter and more heathery on the palate, with a high note of coriander dying away slowly on the finish. It’s elegant, highly drinkable, different and yet still respectful. Good as a Martini or a G&T. Organic. Alc 40.5%

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Spirit of Hven Organic

You have to be brave to oak-age gin, but this tiny distillery on the island of Hven between Sweden and Denmark has pulled it off well. A light and wheaty gin, with a touch of sweet spice, the oak acts almost as a binding agent on which the other elements sit shyly. It’s textural rather than aromatic, but very smooth with a dry finish. Good Martini gin. Alc 40%

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Finland

Kyrö

Dreamed up by a group of Finnish friends in a sauna, Kyrö is unusual in that its base spirit is made using Finnish rye. It has an attractive sweet grass character which moves into sweet fruit before juniper steams in, dragging a spicy train behind it on the finish. Big attack, big cymbal clash, then it’s gone. For me it’s brilliant in a Martinez, where it’s the first and last thing you taste, with the sweet vermouth and Maraschino holding the mid-palate. Alc 46.3%

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SPAIN

Gin Mare

Most Spanish and Italian gins go down the citrus route, but not Gin Mare. This is savoury rather than sweet – think olives and garrigue, particularly rosemary and thyme – with a touch of sea-breeze saltiness and a twist of lemon. It’s sweeter and softer on the palate than you’d expect, so although it works fine in a G&T, it’s at its best in a Martini, where it can show off its subtlety and silkiness. Alc 42.7%

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Palma Gin

The blue and white ceramic bottle tells you all about this drink’s Mallorcan heritage, and the flavours, too, are quintessentially Mediterranean. Lots of orange and juniper with a touch of leafiness, it’s oily rather than sweet-fruited, and the finish is dry. OK in a hot-weather G&T, but quite superb in a Negroni, where the orange note really hits it off with the other ingredients. You don’t even need the garnish! Alc 46.6%

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Best gins for a Negroni

Best gins for a Martini

Heroic winemaking and extreme viticulture may be more associated with high-altitude mountainous regions, deathly dry deserts or live volcanoes but a project that started 20 years ago on the tiny Cycladic island of Tinos has been battling the elements to create a range of wines that exemplifies its unique environment.

Nestled in the heart of the Aegean Sea, surrounded by crystal-clear waters and dotted with postcard-perfect white-washed villages lies the T-OINOS  winery and its 13 hectares of vines at 450m above sea level.

The words ‘legendary’ and ‘mythical’ aren’t often used to describe vineyard locations but with a winemaking history dating back 3,000 years and giant granite rocks that are said to be remnants of an ancient battle between gods and giants scattered across the moon-like landscape they certainly fit here.

These huge volcanic boulders, which are protected by UNESCO world heritage status, have actually been polished and rounded over the centuries by the wind. According to Greek mythology Tinos is considered the birthplace of the wind god Aeolus.

This natural phenomenon, and vine hazard, is only one of a number of difficulties faced by the T-OINOS founders; businessman Alexandros Avatangelos and Gerard Margeon the executive wine director and head sommelier at Alain Ducasse, when they decided to embark on the ambitious and pioneering project in 1999.

‘It was difficult because we had no buildings, no workforce, no vines. We built everything from scratch,’ Margeon revealed during a recent interview. At the time there was limited infrastructure and few transportation options and together with poor, steep and rough terrain the challenge was well and truly set.

However, Margeon said: ‘When you arrive there is a very particular and special energy, we wanted to capture that and create a taste of the location and the soils in a single bottle’, keeping the natural environment intact while creating the necessary structures for the sustainable development of the area.

The first vines were planted in 2002, first vinification in 2008 and the first bottling completed in 2009.

Although, rather than being presented as ‘Greek wines’ which Margeon says still have an ‘image problem’ with a historical reputation for inexpensive bulk production, he prefers the label ‘Aegean Sea wines’.

The one word Margeon uses to describe T-OINOS wines is ‘mystical’ highlighting ‘the whole extreme ecosystem’ that makes their wines so special and has what he calls ‘liquid energy’.

He is of course referring to the soils used to plant the domain’s grapes which include the two flagship indigenous varieties – white Assyrtiko on granitic sand and red Mavrotragano on schist as well as a deep-rooted vine system designed to combat the arid conditions which can sometimes see no rain fall on the island between May and November.

There is also the constant wind vortex which presents problems for flower fertilisation and delivers small grapes at harvest, along with snow and rain in winter and hail that can decimate vines, which in three minutes once destroyed 50% of the crop.

‘A wine finishes in the cellar but starts in the vines’ is Margeon’s philosophy adding that the only goal was to ‘create wines that taste of their place’. In this instance; crystalline, nuanced, salty and mineral.

These characteristics change the conventional food and wine pairings with Margeon’s sommelier credentials advising their white wine with red meat and the red with fish.

It’s no surprise that the wines have been championed by the Ducasse restaurant group which has helped attain their iconic status. But that’s only part of the story.

The winery has seen two decades of heavy investment, meticulous attention to detail and help from renowned French wine consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt who joined the project as Master Vigneron in 2015 and based on a production philosophy of purity, creates with extreme precision, wines of a rare identity and intensity.