The name Ribera del Duero is well known by lovers of Spanish fine wines today. But in the early 20th century, it was a very different story. At that time the DO didn’t even exist and there were few wineries in this part of northwest Spain.

The story begins with Bodegas Protos, established in Ribera in 1927. The pioneers were a group of 11 childhood friends, who set up their winery in the dramatic hilltop castle town of Peñafiel. Appropriately, the winery took its name from the Greek word ‘protos’ (πρῶτος) meaning ‘first’.

The venture proved to be an immediate success, when its first vintages –1927 and 1928 were awarded gold medals at the Universal Exposition of Barcelona in 1929. No wonder the winery’s motto is ser primero: be first.

Over subsequent decades, Protos continued to pursue excellence in its wines, expanding as more families joined the venture. In 1970 it constructed a winery purpose-built for the ageing of its red wines, with over 2km of underground tunnels running beneath Peñafiel Castle.

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Protos at a glance

• Established: 1927
• Vineyards: 1,600ha
• Vignerons: 250
• Employees: 65

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There’s little doubt that the efforts of Protos shone a light on the potential of the whole Ribera del Duero region and the complex elegant reds it produces. Indeed the winery was once known as Protos Bodega Ribera Duero de Peñafiel; Protos graciously allowed the use of its name for the greater good when the official Ribera del Duero DO was established in 1982.

Fast-forward to today and Bodegas Protos now works with more than 250 local growers and over 1,600ha of vines – half of which it owns, the rest is managed under long-term contracts. Three of the founders’ grandchildren sit on the board of directors.

Continued success has led to the setting up of three specialised wineries: one in Ribera for reds, one in Rueda for whites and one in Cigales for rosés. The company’s stunning main winery in Peñafiel, designed by famous British architect Sir Richard Rogers and opened in 2008, hosts over 40,000 visitors a year, making it one of the region’s most-visited tourist attractions.

The award-winning Protos range of 11 wines includes fresh, zesty Verdejos from Rueda, vibrant rosados from Cigales and serious barrel-aged Tempranillo reds from Ribera del Duero. But Protos is constantly striving to improve and innovate, both in the winery – with new techniques and modern equipment – and in its vineyards.

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Protos: key dates

• 1927: Protos was established, the first winery in Ribera del Duero
• 1970: Opening of an ageing winery with underground cellars, under Peñafiel castle
• 2006: Opening of a winery in Rueda for white wines
• 2008: Opening of a new winery in Peñafiel, designed by Sir Richard Rogers and Alonso Balaguer
• 2019: Protos is the most-visited winery in Ribera del Duero, with 38,000 visitors
• 2020: Opening of a new winery in Cigales for rosé wines

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The team includes dedicated viticulturists and agricultural engineers, who have analysed the vineyards plot-by-plot, to determine how Tempranillo clones adapt to different soils and microclimates. This precision viticulture has allowed Protos to fine-tune its harvest dates and preserve the unique characteristics of its vines.

The company is also committed to preserving its legacy for future generations, with a dedicated environmental policy that includes converting all of its vineyards to organic agriculture. Each of its energy-efficient wineries is powered by solar farms.

This forward-thinking approach has always been at the heart of Protos. It’s an example of the pioneering spirit that enables the winery and its wines to continually evolve and deliver the quality that is exemplified in its motto: ser primero – be first.

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Bodegas Protos Verdejo Rueda 2019 – 90 pts

Attractive aromas of guava, pink grapefruit and peardrops, with a hint of fennel. Rounded mid-palate, lively acidity and a long, fresh finish. Drink 2020-2022. Alc 13%

Bodegas Protos Verdejo Reserva Rueda 2018 – 92 pts

The oak masks some of the grape’s punchy aromatics, but enhances the voluptuously textural mid-palate. The fruit (grapefruit and pineapple) is most noticeable on the lively, persistent finish, which is also tinged with spice and smoke. Drink 2020-2024. Alc 13%

Bodegas Protos Reserva Ribera del Duero 2015 – 93 pts

Seems much younger than the 2014 Reserva. Plush, generous palate with notes of dried herbs and damsons. Oak spice adds complexity and richness. Grippy tannins lend support. Drink 2020-2026. Alc 15%

Bodegas Protos Gran Reserva Ribera del Duero 2012 – 90 pts

A dense, powerful wine with a nice balance of primary (dark plum and cherry) and tertiary notes (truffle, smoke, tobacco leaf). Tannins still fairly firm and a bit dry on the finish, which shows a touch of warmth. Drink 2020-2024. Alc 14%

Bodegas Protos 27 Ribera del Duero 2017 – 91 pts

Red cherry and dark plums, with just a suggestion of woody herbs and fennel and a touch of smoky oak. The tannins are quite chunky, adding heft to the palate. Drink 2020-2025. Alc 14.5%

Bodegas Protos Protos Finca El Grajo Viejo Ribera del Duero 2016 – 90 pts

A glossy, ambitious wine of great concentration and depth. Firm tannins promise longevity and there’s a generous dollop of oak spice to add complexity. So well balanced that the alcohol barely shows on the long finish. One for those who like their wines heady and powerful. Drink 2020-2030. Alc 15%

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To find out more visit: www.bodegasprotos.com/en/

Ideas for wines to drink with Pancakes:

Pancake type	Wine style
Sugar & Lemon	Moscato d’Asti, Prosecco
Cheese and ham	Gavi di Gavi, Muscadet or Pinot Blanc
Chocolate	Recioto Valpolicella, Banyuls, or try Barolo Chinato
Rhubarb and cream	Loire Chenin Blanc, Off-dry Riesling – Or perhaps Normandy cider

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Whether you’re planning your Shrove Tuesday menu or a weekend treat, the decision about what to drink with pancakes comes down to the filling.

What you decide to top, fill or wrap your pancakes with can affect your drinking options. Here are some suggestions for some of the more popular toppings you might decide on.

Wine with sugar and lemon pancakes

It’s a classic for a reason, and it remains a very popular topping. Simple, sweet and with the tang of citrus acid.

A light, slightly sweet yet refreshing Moscato d’Asti would wash these down well, or a Prosecco would work. If you can find it, try a Clairette de Die from the Rhône Valley, too. If you’re looking beyond wine, put a bottle of Limoncello in the fridge.

Fruit filling

In a previous masterclass at Le Cordon Bleu London, we created Pancakes with a touch of ginger and accompanied with rhubarb and Apple.

It’s stepping beyond wine, but Matthieu Longuère MS, of Le Cordon Bleu London, had pre-selected, vintage-dated dry cider from Domaine Eric Bordelet.

‘Finding a pairing for this dish is a no brainer, pancakes are known as crêpes in France,’ he said.

‘In crêperies all around the world the accompaniment is invariably cider. Here the pancakes are paired with tangy seasonal rhubarb and soothed by a good dollop of clotted cream,’ he said at the class.

He said the vintage-dated Château de Hauteville ‘Argelette Sydre’ from Bordelet had a bursting apple flavour that was very refreshing with the pancake.

‘Although it is not a sweet cider, it is so ripe and fruity that is not going to clash with the compote and its crisp acidity will refresh the palate in between bites,’ he said.

‘Sydre is made from 20 different varieties of hand-picked cider apple, sweet, bitter or sour, grown on schist soil. The apples are grated and left to ferment for up to 6 months. It is a true vintage cider and can be kept for several years after the harvest. A real Grand Cru!’

A wine alternative to this serious cider might be a Loire Chenin Blanc or an off-dry Riesling from Germany.

If you have a sweet tooth and maple syrup or apricots are involved then you could also look to the sweet wine enclaves of Sauternes and Barsac – or Monbazillac – in Bordeaux.

Savoury cheese and ham pancakes

Again, reaching for the cider would be a wonderful match with this savoury pancake. If you fancy a glass of wine, Pinot Blanc, Muscadet or Gavi di Gavi are all great options.

Chocolate sauce

While a lot of people might associate dry red wine with chocolate, you cannot beat a sweet red like Recioto Valpolicella or a red Banyuls to bring chocolate to life.

If you can’t dig these out, a really fruity, new world red with low tannin could also work.

Salmon

It has so be a Champagne or a traditional method sparkling wine with enough freshness and acidity to cut through the batter mix and bring the salmon to life.

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Wines to drink with pancakes: Recent reviews by our experts

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Copy for this article was written by Harry Fawkes in 2017, following a pancake masterclass with Tom Brown at Le Cordon Bleu London and the school’s Matthieu Longuère MS. It has been edited in February 2021, with new wine reviews added (below).

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Restaurants in New York are allowed to open for indoor dining again, however measures are in place to prevent the spread of Covid 19, such as only 50% capacity and temperature checks. Be sure to check with the venues rules and opening hours before visiting. 

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New York City is home to one of the greatest wine scenes in the world. No matter where you are in the Big Apple, an extensive and globally curated wine list is never more than a few steps away. New York dwellers and short-term visitors alike love to drink wine, and from swanky rooftop bars to classic New York steakhouses to quaint backyard garden bars in Brooklyn, finding a venue that matches your mood is not a difficult feat. Simply put, if you want to drink a knock-out wine, New York has just the place for you to do so.

In a city with such a robust wine culture, things are constantly changing. But thankfully, when it comes to the classics, some things stay the same – including Bordeaux’s presence in the city’s wine-drinking repertoire. Trends and regions may come and go, but Bordeaux is a constant. From first- growth favourites and legendary vintages to natural and low-intervention bottlings from Bordeaux’s newest up-and-coming winemakers, New York City has it all – and its world-class sommeliers are ready to fill your glass with whatever takes your fancy.

For the best Bordeaux selections that New York has to offer, look no further than these 10 wine bars and retail shops.

Le Coucou

Modern take on classic French favourites

For classic French cuisine served alongside a comprehensive Bordeaux selection, check out Le Coucou. This fine French dining establishment sits in the heart of New York’s bustling SoHo neighbourhood and is the brainchild of restaurateur Stephen Starr and chef Daniel Rose. Traditional bistro favourites are redone with a breath of fresh air and served in an ambience of classicism-meets-modernity. Le Coucou’s Bordeaux selection ranges from an extensive list of classics to lesser-known hidden gems, some of which run for less than $100 a bottle. Though if you’re looking to drop a solid $4,000-plus on a 2000 vitnage Château Lafite Rothschild, the option’s also there. For a modern and all-encompassing take on Bordeaux wine served in a lofty and sophisticated atmosphere, this refined restaurant should be top of the list.

• Address: 138 Lafayette St, NY 10013

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Le Crocodile

Bordeaux for the natural wine enthusiast

Not all Bordeaux screams tradition, and what better place to go for a modern take on regional vinification than Brooklyn’s Williamsburg neighbourhood? Tucked inside the Wythe Hotel, this friendly brasserie (pictured top) founded by chefs Jake Leiber and Aidan O’Neal (both formerly of Chez Ma Tante) with restaurateur Jon Neidich is best known for its traditional French fare and whimsical by-the- glass selection. Expect hearty bistro favourites (such as steak au poivre and roast chicken with herb jus and fries, to name but two) paired with unconventional wine pours from France’s classic regions. Le Crocodile is currently serving Clos Puy Arnaud’s La Cuvée Bistrot by the glass, as well as 15 more reds by the bottle (Château Beychevelle, St-Julien 1976 will set you back just $240). Classic French dining with a Brooklyn twist? Count us in.

• Address: 80 Wythe Ave, NY 11249

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Bacchus

Land of large format

Looking to drink big, literally? This unpretentious Brooklyn-based bistro, located in the city’s quaint and cosy Boerum Hill neighbourhood, offers a selection of organic, sustainable and biodynamic Bordeaux wines, many of which come in large-format bottles. For big groups seeking out the joys of Bordeaux magnums, jeroboams and more, paired with French onion soup, moules marinière, braised lamb shanks, or other French favourites, Bacchus’ back garden provides the perfect ambience for sipping and savouring. The wine bar even features a special cave cachée (hidden cave) for imbibers searching to splurge on rare pours of Pétrus, Château d’Yquem and other legendary Bordeaux greats.

• Address: 409-411 Atlantic Ave, NY 11217

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Casa Lever

Where France meets Italy

When Brunello or Barolo simply won’t do the trick, a rich yet restrained red from Bordeaux should fit the bill. Tucked away on New York’s wealthy Upper East Side, Italian restaurant Casa Lever is home to one of the city’s best Bordeaux lists in a non-French restaurant setting. The signature meat-heavy pasta sauces, simply cooked manzo (beef) and ossobuco alla Milanese are simply delightful when matched with a robust Bordeaux from the cellar’s extensive list. Modestly priced bottles start at just $95, including wines from Châteaux Lagrange in St-Julien and Ormes de Pez, St-Estèphe, and there are plenty of pricier offerings to be found, such as Châteaux La Conseillante and Petrus from Pomerol. For chic Italian dining with a French twist, grab a cab uptown and make it a Park Avenue affair.

• Address: 390 Park Ave, NY 10022

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Morrell Wine Bar

Have your Bordeaux (and take it home)

Opened in 1947, this long-standing wine bar/wine shop hybrid is located in the heart of midtown Manhattan and has an ample amount Casa Lever Morrell Wine Bar


of Bordeaux references for consuming both on or off the premises. Whether a by-the-glass pour, half-bottle or more strikes your mood, sip it here against the backdrop of New York’s famed Rockefeller Plaza. Classic Mediterranean-inspired small plates, charcuterie boards, caviar and oysters are just a few of the many food selections available on the all-day menu. The bar pours seven red Bordeaux selections, including Château Latour’s Pauillac de Latour 2012, as well as lesser-known Haut-Médoc options and more by the glass, ranging from $18-$55 per pour. For those looking to continue imbibing past on-premise hours, the bar’s iconic wine shop has plenty of bottles to go.

• Address: 1 Rockefeller Plaza, NY 10020

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The Grill

Iconic steakhouse, robust Bordeaux list

Should you want to drink old-school Bordeaux in a quintessential New York setting, The Grill is just the ticket. Situated in the luxurious location of the former Four Seasons restaurant, The Grill is aiming to build the largest and most diverse wine list in all of New York City, and its Bordeaux section is no exception. For those seeking to drink legendary vintages from iconic producers alongside elevated cuisine, this award-winning list is a great place to start. Best of all, The Grill offers nearly 50 classic red Bordeaux selections by the half-bottle, perfect for those looking to dabble in a variety of producers (Châteaux Latour, Lynch-Bages and Margaux occupy almost 20% of this selection).

• Address: 99 E 52nd St, NY 10022

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Terroir

Laid-back drinking, by-the-glass options

This unpretentious, Tribeca-based wine bar is the brainchild of Paul Grieco, one of New York’s most legendary sommeliers. After working in some of the city’s most high-profile restaurants, Grieco opened this low-key wine bar with the intention of bringing laid-back wine drinking and education to the people of New York. Grieco offers one of the city’s largest by-the-glass selections, featuring a slew of Bordeaux options at any given moment. Terroir is also known for its curated wine flights, which frequently come equipped with maps and visual collateral. If you’re looking to educate yourself on Bordeaux’s best in an informal environment, then this brick-lined gem is just the place.

• Address: 24 Harrison St, NY 10013

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Momofuku Kāwi

Unconventional food pairings

This newly opened restaurant in Manhattan’s up-and-coming Hudson Yards neighbourhood is ideal for those who want to sip Bordeaux alongside classic Korean favourites. Momofuku Kāwi’s beverage director, Isabella Fitzgerald, cleverly integrates the first growths alongside inexpensive by-the-glass picks, ensuring that every client’s ideal price point is met. Although highly underrated, the restaurant’s white Bordeaux selection (there’s good choice by the bottle) and Asian-influenced seafood dishes, as well as Cabernet-dominant reds and Korean steakhouse staples, make for some of the best unconventional food-and-wine matches in the city. For those looking for something off the beaten path, snag a bottle of Amélie Constant’s Crémant de Bordeaux (a Merlot-Cabernet Franc blend) for just $62 a bottle to start your meal on a high note.

• Address: 20 Hudson Yards, NY 100001

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Millesima USA

NYC’s best Bordeaux retail

In the realm of Bordeaux retail, Millesima is undoubtedly New York City’s authority. Founded in 1983, the company proudly boasts 2.5 million bottles in its cellar, with a strong emphasis on Bordeaux past, present and ‘futures’; indeed, it has become synonymous with selling futures. For collectors looking to stock their personal cellars at the hands of bona-fide Bordeaux experts, seeking service from Millesima’s highly qualified staff guarantees customised top-notch service. However, this Upper East Side store front isn’t just for cellar holders. Crisp whites from Entre- deux-Mers can be found for as little as $12.99, and there are plenty of juicy cru bourgeois reds below the $20 price point. For the city’s best selection of off-premise Bordeaux, there’s really no better place to shop.

• Address: 1355 2nd Ave, NY 10021

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Waverly Inn

A sweet situation

This West Village institution boasts American comfort food, a sizeable Bordeaux list and a brilliant back garden perfect for indulging in both. Waverly’s wine director Jeff Harding has a passion for Bordeaux and its wines, particularly the sweet selections from Sauternes. ‘I carry Bordeaux because we are a fairly old New York classic restaurant and we aim for a similar style wine list,’ he says. ‘As many sommeliers have gone exploring wild and wonderful places, I’ve doubled down on the classics and it has been very rewarding.’ Harding also emphasises Bordeaux’s underrated food-friendliness with vegetarian cuisine through regularly scheduled special events and dinners. With more than 100 references on its list, Waverly Inn’s quaint and cosy ambience makes it the ultimate place to drink away from the bustle of downtown Manhattan.

• Address: 16 Bank St, NY 10014

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First published in the Decanter magazine 2020 Bordeaux guide.

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Gin from Europe?’ you might be thinking. ‘Is nothing sacred?’ After all, gin is as proudly British as fish and chips, Tesco and Fray Bentons meat pies. This is correct – but only in so far as none of the above are strictly British inventions, either. The first chippie was set up by a Jewish immigrant, the first Tesco was established by the son of Polish arrivals, and Fray Bentos was first manufactured in Uruguay.

As for gin, well, gin began in Holland, with medieval monks who flavoured distillates with juniper for medicinal purposes. Dutch distilleries continued this practice in the 17th century, and their genever (Dutch for juniper) was mostly used for medicinal reasons; though British soldiers fighting in the Eighty Years’ War reputedly found it useful for relieving pre-battle nerves, hence the term ‘Dutch courage’. Before long, it was well established in Britain – a proudly Protestant spirit that had the backing of the country’s rulers over untrustworthy Catholic brandies. At least, it did until they realised that swathes of the country were happily drinking themselves insensible on a daily basis. This ultimately led to greater regulation for gin production.

Sweeter ‘Old Tom’ style gins were popular, probably because the sugar helped to mask some of the more undesirable characteristics in the spirit. The (unsweetened) London Dry style was already established by the likes of Alexander Gordon (Gordon’s) and Plymouth’s Black Friars Distillery (now Plymouth Gin) in the 18th century.

Gindustrial revolution

London Dry received a major boost with the invention in the 1830s of the Coffey still (an efficient, two-column vertical design that can be operated continuously). Suddenly, it was a lot easier to make gin that was elegant, refined, and better showcased the botanicals that were part of the drink.

By 1870, the likes of Tanqueray and Beefeater were established, and things ticked along happily until 2008, when newcomer Sipsmith wanted to set up its distillery. Its 300-litre still, however, was too small; the minimum size permitted was 1,800 litres – a measure introduced almost 200 years previously to prevent people distilling small batches of moonshine at home.

This was sensibly deemed less of a problem in 21st-century Britain, so the law was changed, and the floodgates opened for small-batch gin production.

The resulting British ginaissance has spread worldwide, and particularly across Europe. Spain might have had its ‘gintonica’ fashion for years (huge balloon glasses with massive free-poured measures of spirit and minimal tonic), but consumption – and production – has skyrocketed in other countries, too.

The thing about gin is that it can have regional expression. It’s glib to call it terroir, but some versions do have a strong local accent. Spanish and Italian distilleries, for instance, use a lot of fresh citrus fruits as botanicals, while their French counterparts are elegant and correct. Scandinavians seem more interested in texture, mouthfeel and botanicals such as native plants and grasses.

It all makes for a fascinating category, with a wide array of styles and extraordinary energy. Pick up three or four of the gins mentioned here and try them against each other in multiple classic gin cocktails. We might not be able to travel at the moment, but at least our palates can still go on a juniper-led voyage of discovery.

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BENELUX

Netherlands

Bobby’s Schiedam Dry

Inspired by the founding family’s Indonesian-born grandfather, Bobby’s has an elegant sweet-spice nose, with grains of paradise and pink pepper. It’s quite Christmassy at first, with cinnamon and candied fruit but dries out nicely on the finish. It’s highly distinctive, but also surprisingly versatile. Good in a G&T, but works particularly well in a Negroni. Alc 42%

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Nolet’s Silver Dry

As you’d expect for the price tag, this is a classily packaged and beautifully made gin. But it’s not necessarily for everyone. There’s a short kick of juniper up front but it moves rapidly into layers of sweeter, fruitier, more perfumed flavours. It’s a cushiony hug, rather than a brisk juniper handshake. Distinctive and really smooth; you’d never know it was 47.6% abv. Well made. A good Martini gin if you like the profile, or in a Negroni for people who don’t like them too dry and bitter. Alc 47.6%

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Belgium

Copperhead

Created by a ‘pharmacist entrepreneur’ in 2013, Copperhead is absolutely on point. It’s a classical style of gin, so should appeal to lovers of Tanqueray or No3, but its aromas are perfectly in focus. Bright, brisk juniper leads into taut citrus and pricks of coriander spice before tailing into a gentle savoury earthiness on the finish. Very classy. Great G&T gin, though it will work in anything, frankly. Alc 40%

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FRANCE

Citadelle

Produced by the Cognac house Maison Ferrand, it’s no surprise that this is a beautifully crafted gin. It’s not showy – grassy and herbal with that characteristic juniper pine aroma on the nose – but it’s wonderfully clean and elegant on the palate, where layers of grasses and juniper intertwine and merge over a drier, earthier base, before giving way to a sweet citrus finish. Versatile, too. Works in any gin cocktail or as a G&T. Alc 44%

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Comte de Grasse 44°N

This gin tastes very much of its French Riviera home – not least because it’s expensive! The feel of the bottle owes more to a top-end perfume than a bottle of booze, and there’s some of that in the flavours, too. There’s definite juniper up front, but then many layers below and behind it. Warm red leather, higher grass elements, sweet and dry spices and building notes of musky white flowers. It wraps itself around the bitterness of tonic but is at its best in a highly distinctive Martini. Alc 44%

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Mistral

If the Comte de Grasse is out of your price range, you can still capture the feel of southern France in this well-priced Provence gin. As pale pink as the region’s famed rosé, there’s a dry ‘countryside in the heat’ feel to it, with flavours of peppercorns and thyme. It’s great with tonic, where there’s enough punch that the spirit is distinctly gin, but also a gentle sweetly aromatic finish. Summery. Alc 40%

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GERMANY

Elephant London Dry

Plenty of reasons to buy this German take on London Dry – not least the fact that it’s environmentally and socially sustainable and 15% of profits go to elephant conservation charities. African botanicals combine to create a gin that’s dry and junipery, with sweet-spice sparkles on the finish. Makes a good dry G&T. Alc 45%

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Monkey 47 Schwarzwald Dry

Nothing shy about this gin from the Black Forest. Monkey barges into your glass with all the decorum of a troupe of chimpanzees. It’s a fruited, complex, layered gin, with black, bright berries, a hint of liquorice and spiced herbs and grasses. Though there’s a lot happening here, it’s brilliantly balanced, and works in every format I’ve tried it in, from a G&T to a Martinez to a Negroni. Alc 47%

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Windspiel Premium Dry

Maybe it’s the greyhound on the label, but there’s a definite sleekness to Windspiel – perhaps down to the fact that its base spirit is made with potatoes. It’s super elegant: lots of juniper, citrus, candied lemon peel and a gentle hint of lavender on the finish, no sharp edges. The charm is its smooth, rich texture, made for an indulgent Martinez or (better) a quality Martini. Alc 47%

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ITALY

Ginato Pinot Grigio Gin

You can usually rely on the Italians for a bit of pizzazz in their packaging, and Ginato has a brilliant ’70s retro coolness to it. Flavour-wise, it’s pretty standard – a juniper hit with some candied tangerine peel. But, made with Pinot Grigio grapes, there’s an underlying sweetness to the palate that makes for a good summery G&T. Alc 43%

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VII Hills Italian Dry

Pretty is the word that springs to mind when you first nose VII Hills. It’s high toned and light footed – all citrus and white flowers, like playing the top two octaves of a piano. With tonic, this floral note becomes more pronounced, and the gin shows at its best in a Negroni, which brings out the citrus to create a classic, elegant cocktail. Alc 43%

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NORDICS

Sweden

Hernö

There are all the gin elements a traditionalist would want – but seen through a Scandinavian filter. It’s like rolling a lemon in your hands in a cool pine forest. That vibrant pine element becomes sweeter and more heathery on the palate, with a high note of coriander dying away slowly on the finish. It’s elegant, highly drinkable, different and yet still respectful. Good as a Martini or a G&T. Organic. Alc 40.5%

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Spirit of Hven Organic

You have to be brave to oak-age gin, but this tiny distillery on the island of Hven between Sweden and Denmark has pulled it off well. A light and wheaty gin, with a touch of sweet spice, the oak acts almost as a binding agent on which the other elements sit shyly. It’s textural rather than aromatic, but very smooth with a dry finish. Good Martini gin. Alc 40%

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Finland

Kyrö

Dreamed up by a group of Finnish friends in a sauna, Kyrö is unusual in that its base spirit is made using Finnish rye. It has an attractive sweet grass character which moves into sweet fruit before juniper steams in, dragging a spicy train behind it on the finish. Big attack, big cymbal clash, then it’s gone. For me it’s brilliant in a Martinez, where it’s the first and last thing you taste, with the sweet vermouth and Maraschino holding the mid-palate. Alc 46.3%

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SPAIN

Gin Mare

Most Spanish and Italian gins go down the citrus route, but not Gin Mare. This is savoury rather than sweet – think olives and garrigue, particularly rosemary and thyme – with a touch of sea-breeze saltiness and a twist of lemon. It’s sweeter and softer on the palate than you’d expect, so although it works fine in a G&T, it’s at its best in a Martini, where it can show off its subtlety and silkiness. Alc 42.7%

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Palma Gin

The blue and white ceramic bottle tells you all about this drink’s Mallorcan heritage, and the flavours, too, are quintessentially Mediterranean. Lots of orange and juniper with a touch of leafiness, it’s oily rather than sweet-fruited, and the finish is dry. OK in a hot-weather G&T, but quite superb in a Negroni, where the orange note really hits it off with the other ingredients. You don’t even need the garnish! Alc 46.6%

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Best gins for a Negroni

Best gins for a Martini

Heroic winemaking and extreme viticulture may be more associated with high-altitude mountainous regions, deathly dry deserts or live volcanoes but a project that started 20 years ago on the tiny Cycladic island of Tinos has been battling the elements to create a range of wines that exemplifies its unique environment.

Nestled in the heart of the Aegean Sea, surrounded by crystal-clear waters and dotted with postcard-perfect white-washed villages lies the T-OINOS  winery and its 13 hectares of vines at 450m above sea level.

The words ‘legendary’ and ‘mythical’ aren’t often used to describe vineyard locations but with a winemaking history dating back 3,000 years and giant granite rocks that are said to be remnants of an ancient battle between gods and giants scattered across the moon-like landscape they certainly fit here.

These huge volcanic boulders, which are protected by UNESCO world heritage status, have actually been polished and rounded over the centuries by the wind. According to Greek mythology Tinos is considered the birthplace of the wind god Aeolus.

This natural phenomenon, and vine hazard, is only one of a number of difficulties faced by the T-OINOS founders; businessman Alexandros Avatangelos and Gerard Margeon the executive wine director and head sommelier at Alain Ducasse, when they decided to embark on the ambitious and pioneering project in 1999.

‘It was difficult because we had no buildings, no workforce, no vines. We built everything from scratch,’ Margeon revealed during a recent interview. At the time there was limited infrastructure and few transportation options and together with poor, steep and rough terrain the challenge was well and truly set.

However, Margeon said: ‘When you arrive there is a very particular and special energy, we wanted to capture that and create a taste of the location and the soils in a single bottle’, keeping the natural environment intact while creating the necessary structures for the sustainable development of the area.

The first vines were planted in 2002, first vinification in 2008 and the first bottling completed in 2009.

Although, rather than being presented as ‘Greek wines’ which Margeon says still have an ‘image problem’ with a historical reputation for inexpensive bulk production, he prefers the label ‘Aegean Sea wines’.

The one word Margeon uses to describe T-OINOS wines is ‘mystical’ highlighting ‘the whole extreme ecosystem’ that makes their wines so special and has what he calls ‘liquid energy’.

He is of course referring to the soils used to plant the domain’s grapes which include the two flagship indigenous varieties – white Assyrtiko on granitic sand and red Mavrotragano on schist as well as a deep-rooted vine system designed to combat the arid conditions which can sometimes see no rain fall on the island between May and November.

There is also the constant wind vortex which presents problems for flower fertilisation and delivers small grapes at harvest, along with snow and rain in winter and hail that can decimate vines, which in three minutes once destroyed 50% of the crop.

‘A wine finishes in the cellar but starts in the vines’ is Margeon’s philosophy adding that the only goal was to ‘create wines that taste of their place’. In this instance; crystalline, nuanced, salty and mineral.

These characteristics change the conventional food and wine pairings with Margeon’s sommelier credentials advising their white wine with red meat and the red with fish.

It’s no surprise that the wines have been championed by the Ducasse restaurant group which has helped attain their iconic status. But that’s only part of the story.

The winery has seen two decades of heavy investment, meticulous attention to detail and help from renowned French wine consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt who joined the project as Master Vigneron in 2015 and based on a production philosophy of purity, creates with extreme precision, wines of a rare identity and intensity.

During lockdown, more and more people have been trying their hand at making their own cocktails. This Valentine’s Day, we’ve rounded up a selection to cocktails to try, that are easy to make at home.

The following cocktails are mostly based around gin, vodka and Champagne or Prosecco, plus plenty of berries and red fruit flavours. You could also try some more of these classic Champagne cocktails.

Valentine’s Day cocktails to make at home

Ruby Gimlet

Glass: Champagne flute

Garnish: None

Ingredients: 15 ml elderflower cordial, 15 ml Vodka, 30 ml pink grapefruit juice, pinch of salt, 100 ml Prosecco.

Method: Build in flute

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Elyx Spritz

Glass: Highball

Garnish: Lemon wheel

Ingredients: 30ml Absolut Elyx, 30ml Lillet Rosé, 200ml Top Q Mixer Elderflower Tonic.

Method: Build over cubed ice, garnish with lemon.

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Clover Club

Glass: Coupe

Garnish: Mint sprig

Ingredients: 50ml Manchester Gin Raspberry Infused, 20ml Extra Dry Vermouth, 20ml lemon juice, 10ml sugar syrup, 4 raspberries, 1 fresh egg white (optional), 1 fresh mint sprig (optional).

Method: Muddle raspberries, sugar syrup and lemon juice. Add all other ingredients except mint sprig. Shake without ice to emulsify the egg white. Add cubed ice and shake again. Fine strain into a glass and garnish with the mint sprig.

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Bu-Tea-Ful

Made using wild purple heather picked on the island, the Isle of Bute Heather gin gives a vibrant floral nose, balanced with a subtle citrus fruit finish.

Glass: Martini glass or coupe

Garnish: None

Ingredients: 37.5ml Isle of Bute Heather Gin, 25ml Peach Schnapps, 50ml Earl Grey tea, 25ml lemon juice, 1 tsp of honey.

Method: Add all ingredients to cocktail shaker, shake hard with cubed ice and fine strain into martini glass or coupe.

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Gin Bellini

A simple and sweet twist on the classic Bellini cocktail from Eden Mill using their famous pink blush Love Gin.

Glass: Cocktail glass

Garnish: Raspberries

Ingredients: 15ml Love Gin, 15ml Eden Mill Love Gin Raspberry, Vanilla and Meringue Liqueur, Prosecco, raspberries.

Method: Combine Love Gin and Love Gin Liqueur in a cocktail glass. Top up with Prosecco. Garnish with raspberries.

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The Love Potion

Glass: Tumbler or gin balloon glass

Garnish: Wildflowers

Ingredients: 40ml Caorunn Gin, 30ml raspberry cordial, 25ml lemon juice, 40ml tonic water, 2ml peat whisky (we like to use anCnoc Peatheart)

Method: For the raspberry cordial, stir together 500 grams of caster sugar with one litre of water and 200g raspberries in a pan. Bring it to the boil and simmer for 15 minutes. Let it cool down, strain and refrigerate. Stir all the ingredients with ice and serve in a rocks glass over ice. Garnish with wildflowers.

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Byblos Royale

From the hotel founded on love – Hotel Byblos was originally founded in 1967, by Lebanese businessman Jean-Prosper Gay-Para in the attempt to woo French actress Brigitte Bardot – what better cocktail to drink on the day of love than the hotel’s twist on the classic Kir Royale?

Glass: Champagne flute

Garnish: Fresh raspberries, fresh mint, lime wedge

Ingredients: 25ml Cherry Liqueur, 25ml Ginger Liqueur, Champagne Brut Rosé,

Method: Mix the Cherry and Ginger Liqueur and top up with Champagne Brut Rosé. Garnish with fresh raspberries, mint and a lime wedge

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Results for Chinese wines at the Decanter World Wine Awards continue to establish its reputation as a quality-led wine producing country.

China received 120 medals at DWWA 2020, including one coveted Platinum medal – last awarded at the 2017 competition. Alongside this, China achieved three Gold medals, 34 Silver and 82 Bronze.

To ring in the Chinese New Year and highlight some producers to keep your eye on, we’ve selected 15 award-winning wines from the 2020 competition, each receiving 90+ points.

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Learn: Pairing wine with Chinese food for the Year of the Ox

Search all DWWA award-winning wines from China

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Whether familiar with Chinese wines or looking for where to start, the below list includes benchmark examples of the quality wines China is able to produce from sparkling and white wines to red and sweet…

Sparkling

Chandon, Brut, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia NV

Silver, 90 points

70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir

A classic traditional method style showing a good balance of nutty, toasty notes alongside ripe stone and red fruits. Rich and complex.

White

Canaan Wine Estate, Shi Bai Pian Reserve Chardonnay, Huailai, Hebei 2016

Silver, 91 points

100% Chardonnay

Intense floral and toasty oak bouquet, then rich and ripe in the mouth with a long finish. Lovely wine.

Helan Mountain, Xiao Feng Chardonnay, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia, China 2017

Silver, 90 points

100% Chardonnay

Ripe peach and red apple nose. The oak is obvious on the creamy and nutty palate but has integrated over time, adding opulence. Long, spicy finish.

Puchang Vineyard, Rkatsiteli, Turpan, Xinjiang 2018

Bronze, 89 points

70% Rkatsiteli, 30% Riesling

Delicate floral nose. Lively palate with notes of apple, greengage and white plum, plus lively minerality and a briny note. Persistent, almondy finish.

Chateau Mihope, Viognier, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2018

Bronze, 88 points

100% Viognier

Pronounced lavender and rose scents with lots of waxy pineapple and apricot fruit, plus coconut from the oak. Finishes well.

Red

Chateau Hedong, Syrah, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2016

Silver, 93 points

100% Syrah

Blue-fruited, peppery and herbal, this displays a rather Crozes style with a lighter palate, soft tannins and a refreshing finish. Lovely wine.

Chateau Junding, Xiyue, Penglai, Shandong 2016

Silver, 91 points

55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Shiraz, 15% Marselan

Rich cassis, cedar, clove spice and red fruit nose. Full-bodied and polished, framed by fine, savoury tannins and finishing with laudable persistence.

Chateau Hedong, Cabernet Franc, Helan Mountain East, Ningxia 2017

Silver, 90 points

100% Cabernet Franc

Good varietal aromas of raw plums and blackcurrants with a whiff of smoke. Quite mouth-filling, with plenty of mature red fruit, well-integrated oak and soft tannins. Finishes well.

West Region Pearl, Berry Selection 300, Manas, Xinjiang 2016

Silver, 90 points

100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Sweet red cherry aromas with some oak and cedar characters. The oak is well-managed and delivers a twist of sweet spice. Quite nicely done.

Kweichow Moutai, Moutai Old Vigneron Dry Red Wine, Changli, Hebei 2017

Silver, 90 points

80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot

A well-made wine with fine-grained tannins, lots of cassis and red fruit, plus notes of coconut and creamy oak. Energetic finish.

Grace Vineyard, Deep Blue, Shanxi 2017

Silver, 90 points

60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc

A flashy and ambitious wine with pronounced cedar, vanilla, cherry and liquorice scents, abundant fine-grained tannins and a toasty finish. Fine job!

Sweet

Ji’an Baite, Manor Icewine, Tonghua, Jilin 2016

Platinum, 97 points

100% Vidal

Resplendent tangerine and dried apricot scents lead onto an intense palate of ripe oranges, figs and dates. Elegant, long, concentrated and beautiful, this will handsomely repay cellaring.

Domaine Franco Chinois, Petit Manseng, Huailai, Hebei 2015

Gold, 96 points

100% Petit Manseng

Vibrant, playful and exciting, this is a superb wine with an apricot, pear and peach skin nose, beautiful melon and tangerine flavours and a long finish. Bravo!

Chateau Changyu, Black Diamond Golden Icewine Valley Vidal, Huanren, Liaoning 2017

Gold, 95 points

100% Vidal

Apple peel, peach, marmalade and dried apricot nose. The palate is honeyed, rich and unctuous with wonderful length and impeccable poise. A beauty.

Liaoning Sanhe, Cailonglin Vidal Icewine, Huanren, Liaoning 2013

Gold, 95 points

100% Vidal

A cascade of ripe, scented, marmalade, honey, butterscotch and candied citrus characters pile out of the glass in friendly combat with toast, tea leaf and perky acidity. Bravo.

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DWWA 2020: Top Chinese wines showcased at ProWine China

DWWA 2021 entries are open – Enter now

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Wine with Chinese food: Five styles to consider

• Riesling (dry, off-dry)
• Gewürztraminer
• Chardonnay sparkling wines 
• Pinot Noir
• Gamay

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Matching wine with Chinese food can be somewhat complicated and is often perceived differently in Europe and the US versus China itself.

‘Chinese food’ is a vague concept, according to Shanghai-based sommelier Guo Ying.

‘It only takes around one-and-a-half hours to fly from Japan to South Korea.

‘In China, it can take up to seven hours to fly from one city to another, so it’s not hard to understand why there is such a diversity of ingredients and cooking in different regions.’

To complicate matters further, you may find your favourite Chinese restaurant tries to serve everything to your table at once.

‘Chinese hosts feel guilty if they don’t fill the table in front of their guests with food,’ said Professor Li Demei in a column on DecanterChina.com.

‘However, with such diverse flavours presented all at the same time, how would you pair them with wine?’

Chinese takeaways provide a simpler, westernised approach to the vast possibilities of the eight great regional cuisines (‘八大菜系’).

You’ll find familiar options and popular single dishes available almost everywhere, and so they also pose fewer difficulties when thinking about wine pairing.

Here are some suggestions for pairing wine with Chinese food commonly found in the UK and US.

Wine with Dim sum

Among the eight great Chinese regional cuisines, Cantonese food is arguably the most widely found in western countries.

Dim Sum covers a wide range of small dishes, including steamed dumplings, spring rolls and soya-seasoned meats.

The relatively mild flavours open up plenty of options to wine pairing.

‘Instead of using condiments to enhance the flavours, [the] natural savoury taste lends itself to be paired with wines,’ said Guo Ying.

‘The best shrimp dumplings must have smooth and translucent skin with a springy texture, and you can taste the freshness of the shrimp. Pork meat is added to enhance the flavours,’ said Guo Ying.

Try a still or sparkling made with 100% Chardonnay to pair with this fresh and light dish, or with other Dim Sum dishes of similar texture, such as Shumai.

Food and wine expert Fiona Beckett suggested ‘sparkling wine, preferably blanc de blancs Champagne, or a chilled fino Sherry’ in a previous article for Decanter.com.

Similarly, spring rolls with crispy skin and mild vegetable fillings could benefit from a fresh and clean white. A youthful Gruner Veltliner or green apple-tinged Picpoul de Pinet would fit the bill perfectly.

The same rule applies to potstickers – pan-fried dumplings.

For Cha Siu Bao (steamed Barbecued pork bun), the salty-sweet, rich fillings would pair nicely with a refreshing off-dry Riesling or a chilled Moscato d’Asti.

A ripe, fruit-forward New World Pinot Noir could also do the trick with Cha Siu (braised pork bellies), though tannins may not work very well with the doughy texture of the bun.

When pairing wine with dumplings in general, heavy, tannic reds should be avoided, because they are likely to overpower these lightly flavoured dishes.

Wine with chow mein (fried noodles) and fried rice

These hearty dishes can be served as a whole meal on their own: carbohydrates, proteins and vegetables – everything you need is packed in one plate.

Fresh ingredients are tossed skilfully in giant woks over blazing flames, with plenty of oil, soy sauce, oyster sauce, spices and (optional) spring onions added.

These greasy dishes, though satisfying, cry for acidity to refresh your palate.

A Riesling with razor-sharp acidity, with or without residual sugar, remains the top choice, although we wouldn’t say no to a linear English sparkling wine.

Find more tips on pairing wines with fried rice here.

Wine with crispy duck and pancakes

This beloved duck dish bears some resemblances to the famous Peking duck, although it’s generally deep fried rather than roasted.

As many people know, crispy duck is delicious when served with hoisin sauce, shredded cucumber and spring onion, wrapped in thin pancakes.

Fiona Beckett recommended ‘a good fruity Pinot Noir from Oregon or the Sonoma coast, or a cru Beaujolais’ for this dry and crunchy duck dish.

Canadian-Chinese Master of Wine Jennifer Docherty believes that Spätlese Riesling is a better partner to Peking duck, as the dish is greasy and rich whereas Pinot Noir is ‘quite linear’.

Plus, a touch of residual sugar goes well with the hoisin sauce, she added.

Wine with sweet and sour dishes

General Tso’s Chicken has nothing to do with the real General Tso, and orange chicken hardly resembles its ‘origin’ – tangerine chicken of Hunan province.

That said, there’s nothing stopping us from enjoying these richly sweet and sour dishes.

Beckett suggested pairing anglicised sweet and sour dishes with ‘aromatic white blends such as Hugel’s Gentil or TWR’s Toru from Marlborough, New Zealand’.

Aromatic varieties such as Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Torrontes with their distinctive characters (and a touch of sweetness in some cases) should work well with sesame chicken.

Residual sugar levels are a more important consideration when pairing wines with spicier dishes, such as General Tso’s Chicken.

Wine with Sichuan-style spices

A cold sparkling wine can do wonders to ease the burn of Sichuan-style spices – be it Prosecco, Asti, Lambrusco or Brut Champagne.

Again, aromatic white wines with Chinese food can work well when paired with dishes that have complex aromas from various spices.

You could go for sweetness, too. An Auslese Riesling or even a lighter style of Sauternes or Barsac can work hand-in-hand with the spicy sensation.

Beckett recommended ‘a bold off-dry rosé (a pale Provençal pink doesn’t quite cut the mustard) or off-dry Riesling such as Jeffrey Grosset’s Alea’.

Light-hearted, juicy reds, such as a youthful Gamay or Pinot Noir, also work well with the rich flavours and refresh the palate.

Be cautious with powerful tannins and high alcohol, because they tend to enhance the heat.

Sylvia Wu is editor of DecanterChina.com and a Decanter regional editor.

Fiona Beckett also blogs on her own website, Matching Food And Wine. 

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More food and wine pairing articles: 

How to pair dumplings and wine

Top 20: Food-friendly wines from around Italy

‘Sauvignon Blanc is New Zealand’s calling card’ commented Rebecca Gibb MW, Regional Chair for New Zealand at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2020, but she added, ‘New Zealand makes excellent Chardonnay that continues to be underrated.’

From fresh and fruit-driven to creamy and textured examples, New Zealand Chardonnay is produced in a range of styles and is quickly becoming a benchmark. DWWA results are telling of this with results for New Zealand Chardonnay up year on year – 67 wines were awarded a Bronze medal or above at DWWA 2020 as compared to 53 in 2019 and 39 in 2018.

But it’s not just Chardonnay that’s vying for attention. Other white varieties such as Grüner Veltliner and Albariño are gaining increasing recognition too, and making their way onto the list of New Zealand’s top-scoring white wines at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2020.

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Read more – New Zealand: Beyond Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir

Premium: New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc: 20 from 2020

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With 253 white wines from New Zealand awarded a Bronze medal or above, here we highlight 20 top award-winning wines including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Albariño and Pinot Gris…

Click here to learn about New Zealand Wine Week (8-12 February 2021) and take part in virtual activities planned across the USA, UK, Ireland and Canada.

New Zealand: Top 20 white wines of DWWA 2020

Marlborough

Yealands Estate, Single Block L5 Sauvignon Blanc, Awatere Valley 2019

Best in Show, 97 points

100% Sauvignon Blanc

Are you ready for this? Raw, savage, primitive, primeval and confronting: these aren’t, perhaps, the adjectives we most readily associate with the always-accomplished wines of New Zealand, but the full-frontal assault of vegetative and green-fruit splendour in this Awatere Valley Sauvignon Blanc sets it apart as an indigenous style maxxed out to the full. You can smell it at three paces, and once in the mouth the wine is a kind of hand-grenade of springtime flowers and early-season fruits. This is clearly a wine where origin is to the fore, and while some are going to love it, it may leave others disconcerted. If you’re in the latter category, persist nonetheless: while new styles of beauty seem strange at first, we soon come to learn their language – and are grateful.

Brancott Estate, Letter Series O Chardonnay 2018

Gold, 95 points

100% Chardonnay

Gorgeous reductive, smoke, lemon peel and white peach scents. Lovely nutty note on the palate, then a long, racy finish. Superb now, but if you can keep your hands off it, there’s even more in store.

Villa Maria, Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Taylors Pass 2019

Gold, 95 points

100% Sauvignon Blanc

Superb wine with notes of flint, herbs, peach, nectarine and honeysuckle. The flavours continue for quite a while on the palate. Really lovely, impressive and complex stuff, topped and tailed by lemony acidity.

te Pā, Oke Sauvignon Blanc 2018

Silver, 93 points

100% Sauvignon Blanc

Very poised, focused purity and concentration on the bouquet. Impressively complex, this has enticing blackcurrant and gooseberry flavours and a really long, elegant finish. Superb.

Baron Edmond de Rothschild, Rimapere, Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2019

Silver, 92 points

100% Sauvignon Blanc

Clean, crisp and fresh with simple honeydew melon characteristics. There’s power and intensity here providing lots of drive and richness. Stylistic and structural example.

Isabel Estate, Sauvignon Blanc 2019

Silver, 92 points

100% Sauvignon Blanc

An overt style with masses of green pea, nettle and passionfruit. In the mouth, there’s fruit sweetness and bags of rich flavour. Moderate length.

Lake Chalice, The Raptor Chardonnay 2018

Silver, 92 points

100% Chardonnay

Lovely fresh, clean lively fruit on the nose with more than a hint of class. This is very well made and has admirable depth. Very attractive.

The Hunting Lodge, Expressions Vibrant Sauvignon Blanc 2019

Silver, 92 points

100% Sauvignon Blanc

Reductive struck match nose with both ripe tropical fruit and green pea notes in the mouth. Commercial and attractive.

Villa Maria, Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Wairau Valley 2019

Silver, 92 points

100% Sauvignon Blanc

Really rounded and textured palate with phenolic grip make this perfect for food pairings. Eminently satisfying with a very long, silky and perfumed finish.

Wairau River, Sauvignon Blanc 2019

Silver, 92 points

100% Sauvignon Blanc

Zingy citrus and flinty nose. Fresh, firm and precise in the mouth, this has a long mineral finish and will be an excellent food match.

Marisco, The King’s Thorn Pinot Gris 2018

Silver, 91 points

93% Pinot Gris, 7% Gewürztraminer

Lovely floral and spicy lift from the high proportion of Gewürztraminer. It’s clean and well made with excellent concentration and follow through.

Stoneleigh, Riesling 2019

Silver, 90 points

100% Riesling

A richly-fruited, fresh and zingy wine with a pure lime character. Drink on its own or with a light dish.

Yealands, Single Vineyard Grüner Veltliner, Awatere Valley 2019

Silver, 90 points

100% Grüner Veltliner

This is a fresh medium-bodied example with apple fruit, comice pear and a hint of spice – varietal clarity. Precise, clean and honest.

Auckland 

Cable Bay, Chardonnay, Waiheke Island 2017

Silver, 91 points

100% Chardonnay

An elegant style with noteworthy precision and tension; plenty of acidity here, too, plus vivid white stone fruit flavours. Long finish.

Gisborne

Leftfield, Albariño 2019

Silver, 91 points

100% Albariño

Richly aromatic, weighty style with marked roundness and classic peach, mid-palate weight. Provides enjoyable youthful drinking now.

Hawke’s Bay

Church Road, Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2018

Silver, 92 points

100% Chardonnay

Honeydew melon and oak-derived, toasty flavours combine in this mid-weight Chardonnay which has a creamy, suave concentration and medium length.

Sacred Hill, Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2018

Silver, 92 points

100% Chardonnay

Rich buttery nose with some citrus. Rich and flavoursome palate with well judged oak; there’s a lot of focus and drive here. One for the future.

Te Awanga Estate, Trademark Chardonnay 2018

Silver, 92 points

100% Chardonnay

Enticing citrus and smoky oak scents. Rich and textural on the palate with layers of flavour on the long finish. Good potential.

Te Awanga Estate, Quarter Acre Viognier, Bridge Pa 2018

Silver, 91 points

100% Viognier

Highly varietal peach, orange and rose petal characteristics on the nose and rich palate. Long, creamy finish.

Wairarapa

Matahiwi Estate, Sauvignon Blanc, Masterton 2019

Silver, 91 points

100% Sauvignon Blanc

A varietal nose offering gooseberry and citrus. The palate offers some nice weight too but there’s good tension and freshness. Pithy finish.

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Search all DWWA 2020 award-winning wines from New Zealand

DWWA 2021 entries are open – Enter now

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Commemorating its 150th anniversary in 2020, Bodegas Montecillo is the first and oldest winery of Fuenmayor, and the third oldest in Rioja. It was founded by Don Celestino Navajas Matute in 1870, taking its name from the unique topography of Fuenmayor, his Rioja Alta hometown.

Don Celestino began this wine adventure when inherited his mother-in- law’s vineyards. But it was his son Alejandro who continued it, with the wisdom of a visionary. He built an empire, with an entrepreneurial spirit that underpinned all of his endeavours. Alejandro established a hydroelectric power plant in Buicio, providing energy to Laguardia, Cenicero and Fuenmayor. He launched Nemrod Company to handle dynamite transportation across the entire peninsula and founded his own shipping line with five freighters.

Nevertheless, Alejandro’s heart remained in the vineyards. He managed the winery, with his brother Gregorio, from 1896 onwards. Together they bought a rural property, El Montecillo, that gave its name to the winery and the most important ship in their fleet.

The next chapter in the winery’s story begins with José Luis, grandson [of Don Celestino?]. After studying oenology in Burgundy, he took Montecillo’s wines to the next level in terms of quality. He introduced innovative techniques such as cold fermentation and created the iconic Viña Monty wines.

In 1973, with no heirs to carry on the family legacy. José Luis entrusted Montecillo to the Osborne family, which also had over a hundred years of winemaking culture. They have strengthened the virtues behind the Montecillo name: high quality, tradition, knowledge and innovation. They opened a new winery in Naverrete in 1975, to produce long-aged wines, an emblem of the Bodegas Montecillo brand.

Throughout its history, Montecillo has pursued excellence. From early innovations, such as the introduction of cold vinification in the 1940s, to modern investments in flex tanks, small vats, barrels and manual bottle cellars, the winery has pushed itself to achieve a perfect fusion between tradition and modernity.

Today Montecillo’s winemaking philosophy is guided by chief winemaker Mercedes García Rupérez, who has taken on the responsibility of updating the bodega’s wines without ever losing their essence, tradition or roots. As the custodian of vintages dating back to 1926 in the winery’s cellars, she is aware of the time and effort needed to create wines with such longevity. That’s why all of Montecillo’s wines are aged in barrels and bottles for longer than the Rioja Regulatory Council stipulations. It’s also why any new cuvees must be created in a way that reflects Montecillo’s signature style.

Anniversary wines

This was front of mind for García Rupérez when she was tasked with curating a selection of wines to celebrate Montecillo’s 150th anniversary year. These included the launch of collection of 3 Reservas under legendary Viña Monty label and the release of the last remaining magnum bottles of Montecillo’s award-winning Viña Monty Gran Reserva 1975 vintage.

Using grapes chosen from six prime plots from across Rioja Alta and Rioja Oriental, the new Viña Monty collection stays true to the winemaking philosophy and style of the original Burgundy-style bottlings. This limited-release comprises: Viña Monty Reserva Graciano 2015, Viña Monty Reserva Garnacha 2015 and Viña Monty White Reserva Viura-Tempranillo Blanco 2016.

Finally, in response to international demand for gran reservas from Rioja, García Rupérez crafted the Bodegas Montecillo 150 Aniversario Selección Especial Gran Reserva 2005 (see box). From a vintage classified as ‘Excellent’, this wine showcases Montecillo’s reputation for long-lived wines and is testament to the skill of García Rupérez. No wonder it was awarded 92 points in the Decanter World Wine Awards 2020.

These 150th anniversary releases are a fitting testament to the legacy of Don Celestino – a legacy that will be carried forward into the future by bottles that are even now resting safely in Montecillo’s cellars.

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Bodegas Montecillo 150 Aniversario Gran Reserva 2005 Selección Especial – 92 points

A blend of Tempranillo, Graciano and Maturana Tinta grapes from a traditional mixed vineyard. Fermented with continuous pumping over and maceration on skins for two weeks. Aged for over five years in French oak, then at least another nine years in bottle, creating a wine with aromatic intensity and significant complexity. The harmonious palate is creamy and robust, with a silky texture and a distinctive, lingering finish. Only 2,798 bottles crafted.

Bodegas Montecillo 22 Barrels Gran Reserva 2011 – 94 points

Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha and Mazuelo are sourced from parcels of old vines in Fuenmayor, Navarrete, Medrano and Huércanos. The different varieties are vinified separately and aged in French oak before blending: the final wine harmonises during long bottle ageing for at least 48 months. Aromatic, lively and intense nose; the palate is silky with elegant tannins, good acidity and fleshy fruit.

Bodegas Montecillo Gran Reserva 2011 – 91 points

This classic gran reserva is mostly Tempranillo with 8% Graciano. Aged in French and American oak for 28 months, with a further four years in bottle. The palate shows great finesse, with well-polished tannins and good acidity that persists through the long finish.

Bodegas Montecillo Vina Monty Graciano Reserva 2015 – 92 points

A firm and silky red wine with graphite, lead and darkberry character and just a hint of walnut shell. Medium-bo-died. Lovely fruit in the centre palate with a long finish.

Bodegas Montecillo Reserva 2013

A blend of 90% Tempranillo, with Mazuelo and Garnacha, harvested and vinified separately, then aged in French and American oak for 24 months, with a further 24 months in bottle after blending. An elegant and lively palate, with balanced acidity, mature tannins and a long, red-fruited finish. Included in the 25th position TOP 100 wines of 2020 by Wine Spectator.

Bodegas Montecillo Crianza 2017

A blend of Tempranillo (87%) from Rioja Alta and Garnacha from Rioja Oriental, harvested, vinified and aged separately, with six months in bottle before release. Rounded palate with balanced tannins, notes of ripe red fruit and a long finish.

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For more information visit: www.bodegasmontecillo.com