Wines

From starting life as ‘a bit of fun’ for World Whisky Day four years ago, the release of the latest Redbreast Dream Cask single pot still Irish whiskey has swiftly become one of the most anticipated events in the whisky calendar.

Only the finest casks, hand-selected by Midleton Distillery’s Master Blender Billy Leighton, are deemed worthy of consideration for Dream Cask status, and the latest release is no exception: Redbreast Dream Cask Oloroso Sherry Edition.

‘There is no greater joy in my job than to come across an excellent cask while conducting a sensory assessment of our whiskeys,’ says Leighton. ‘To craft the 2021 expression, we experimented with new ways of vatting, marrying and finishing to create something greater than the sum of its parts – and we are delighted with the result.’

The fourth Redbreast Dream Cask release has its roots in the creation of last year’s bottling, Redbreast Dream Cask Ruby Port Edition. At the time, Blender Dave McCabe had the idea of filling two casks – one seasoned with Port, the other with oloroso Sherry – and letting them mature in parallel. While the Port cask was bottled last year, the oloroso butt was left to mellow for a further 12 months.

‘The cask is giving additional, Sherry-derived flavours,’ explains McCabe, ‘but a lot of that additional time in cask is allowing the complexity to come through. There are extra layers of flavour that weren’t in the Port edition, and a subtlety to the spiciness.’

An exercise in complexity

Creating a Redbreast Dream Cask bottling is a complex exercise. The Oloroso Sherry Edition is a vatting of four single pot still whiskeys, all of them at least 29 years old and previously matured in ex-bourbon, ruby Port and Sherry casks before being combined in the oloroso Sherry butt.

The result is a whiskey of astounding complexity, encompassing everything from luscious berry fruit to raisins, baking spices and tangy marmalade. Mouth-filling and rich, but also of such impeccable balance and harmony that off-sets Redbreast’s trademarked spices, while also being perfectly approachable at its natural strength of 51.2% abv.

The release – available exclusively through an online ballot hosted on Redbreast’s members’ club, The Birdhouse, from Monday 17 May – provides a showcase for the highly distinctive single pot still style. The combination of malted and unmalted barley creates a uniquely silky, spicy spirit that combines perfectly with fine Sherry casks sourced from Jerez de la Frontera in Spain’s Andalusia.

The rise of Redbreast

That union of liquid and cask has been the secret of Redbreast’s global success; from the moment when wine merchant W&A Gilbey filled an empty Sherry cask with whiskey from John Jameson & Son’s Dublin distillery in the late 1800s, through the creation of the first Redbreast label in 1912, right up to the whiskey’s current renaissance.

Over the past decade, the Redbreast family has expanded, moving from an initial 12-year-old expression to include whiskeys at 15, 21 and 27 years of age, plus Redbreast Lustau Edition, created as a tribute to the Sherry industry.

In the process, Redbreast has become one of the world’s most prized whiskeys, with the Dream Cask bottlings cementing that lofty status. But these annual releases shouldn’t be taken for granted, explains Leighton.

‘We have ongoing trials, and when something pops out of those trials, then it’s great,’ he explains. ‘We have about 1.8 million casks of maturing whiskey, so it would be difficult not to have one of these coming around every year.

‘But I wouldn’t want to give a watertight guarantee – because we wouldn’t release one of these Dream Casks just for the sake of it.’

Only 924 bottles of Redbreast Dream Cask Oloroso Sherry Edition will be released, exclusively through an online ballot hosted on The Birdhouse. The ballot will be live from 17-25 May, when successful participants will be given the chance to purchase a 500ml bottle for €520.

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Redbreast Dream Cask Oloroso Sherry Edition: tasting notes

The distillery says:

‘A rich and complex array of aromas, with liquorice, dried fruits and a freshly crushed garden mint character to the fore, while dark berries and delicate touches of orange marmalade build over time, working in tandem with the pronounced aromas of worn leather, tobacco leaf and nutmeg. Cinnamon spice and sweet vanilla highlight the intricate nature of the oak, complementing and enhancing the pot still spices.

‘The palate is luscious and full, with succulent berry fruits, soft anise spice and mild tannins. The taste effortlessly evolves, with notes of dark brown sugar, vanilla and raisins adding a sweet element to create balance with the pot still spice, while cinnamon and nutmeg remain constant in the background. A lingering finish, with the spices slowly fading, allows the oak and fruit to have the final say.’

Decanter’s whisky expert Richard Woodard says:

‘Immediate impressions of opulence and intensity. A rich, seamless bouquet of dried apricot and raisin, then fragrant sandalwood lifted by zestier clementine notes. There’s a thread that moves from herbal through anise to dark liquorice, and you can feel the age in the nuttier elements, and the scent of old leather. Hugely complex, but never fragmented – held together by a silkily mouth-coating texture and plump, plummy fruit.’

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Styles to look for when pairing wine with salmon:

Style of salmon	Wine style
Seared salmon	Chilled Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
Smoked salmon	Blanc de blancs Champagne, English sparkling wine, Riesling, manzanilla Sherry
Herbs and citrus	Sauvignon Blanc
Sweet spice (ginger) or Miso	Pinot Gris, Riesling
Sushi	Sauvignon Blanc, especially Sancerre

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Wine with salmon: What the experts say

Salmon is a fairly versatile fish, so it’s going to depend on the type of salmon you’ve bought and what you do with it.

‘The wine pairing depends heavily on how the salmon is prepared and the accompanying side dishes,’ said Jolanta Dinnadge, speaking to Decanter as head sommelier at Corrigan’s Mayfair in 2019.

Can you drink red wine with salmon? 

While it’s a myth that red wine never matches with fish, it’s generally better to avoid bolder styles brimming with tannins.

‘An absolute no is to pair a full-bodied red wine with salmon as this will kill both the wine and the fish’s flavours,’ said Dinnadge, who is now group beverage manager of the Corrigan Collection.

High consumer demand means that farmed Atlantic salmon has become much more prevalent on dinner tables, and farmed varieties also tend to have a fattier texture than their wild cousins.

For seared salmon, and particularly farmed varieties, ‘the obvious choice is a chilled Pinot Noir’, said food and wine expert Fiona Beckett in a previous article for Decanter.

Pinot ‘picks up perfectly on the richness of the fish and the caramelised crust’, said Beckett, adding that Chardonnay is also worth considering.

What to drink with salmon with herbs and cream sauces

‘Taste is a personal sensation and unique to each individual,’ said Wilfried Rique, speaking to Decanter.com in 2019 as beverage director at Nobu Shoreditch. ‘However, I would say that there are a few essentials that are good to know.’

‘The minerality and herbaceous notes of a classic Sauvignon Blanc will match well with a salmon cooked with fine herbs and citrus,’ he said.

‘If the salmon is accompanied with butter and cream, you should go more for a Chardonnay with a bit of oak to highlight the fish.’

Spices 

Pairing wine with spicy food doesn’t have to be tricky.

Nobu is known for its seafood and also its Japanese flavours, such as wasabi and teriyaki sauces, as well as spice combinations involving ginger and garlic, plus also South American influences, such as jalapeno.

‘We like to choose a Riesling from Germany or a Pinot Gris from Alsace to enhance the flavours of salmon cooked with some spices, and sweetness from the miso sauce, for example,’ said Rique.

Drinking wine with smoked salmon

From Christmas morning tradition to classic canapés and light summer lunches, quality smoked salmon has a timeless appeal.

‘For a classic smoked salmon dish with onion, capers and a slice of lemon, a Riesling will be great,’ said Dinnadge, who picked out Trimbach’s Cuvée Frédéric Émile 2011 vintage from the Corigan’s Mayfair wine list at the time.

Others prefer sparkling wines, and particularly those made with Chardonnay in a blanc de blancs style.

Matthieu Longuère MS, of Le Cordon Bleu London, suggested a vintage English sparkling wine with smoked salmon canapés when writing on the subject for Decanter.com.

‘Thanks to its high acidity, it should also handle the saltiness of smoked salmon,’ he said.

‘For Chardonnay Champagne, smoked salmon on toast is best, with crème fraiche,’ said Thomas Laculle-Moutard, of Laculle and Moutard Champagne houses, speaking on the sidelines of Decanter’s Sparkling Exploration event in 2017.

Writing in Decanter back in 2007, Fiona Beckett recommended manzanilla Sherry with smoked salmon.

‘[It’s] not the most usual combination with smoked salmon but the most reliably consistent one,’ she said. ‘It goes without saying that the Sherry should be served chilled from a freshly opened bottle.’

Salmon Sushi

‘For sushi, as it is a small bite, I would recommend a crispy and citrusy wine, such as a Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay,’ said Rique.

Sauvignon from ‘Sancerre is a good go-to as it balances well with the acidity of the salmon but has enough strength to match with the bold note of the rice’.

This article has been updated in May 2021, including with new wine reviews. It was originally published in 2019. 

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Wine with salmon: See recent reviews by Decanter experts

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‘A bling, bling Platinum & Gold year for Portugal’ is how Sarah Ahmed, DWWA Regional Chair for Portugal, described results from the 2020 Decanter World Wine Awards.

In total, Portugal received an impressive five Best in Show, 11 Platinum and 25 Gold medals across all styles of wine, and while fortified wines Port and Madeira tend to perform well year on year, it was Portugal’s top-scoring dry red wines that greatly impressed.

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Scroll down to see the 95+ point Portuguese red wines from DWWA 2020 and tasting notes

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Showing top quality at every price point, both value and premium red wines topped the list with two Best in Show, seven Platinum and six Gold medals – all from the Douro and Alentejo. In comparison, at the 2019 competition not one red wine received a Platinum medal, and only one red from the Douro and two from Alentejo received a Gold.

In a recent regional profile on Alentejo, Ahmed writes, ‘Year in, year out, much like its reliably sunny climate, Alentejo’s red wines shine at Decanter World Wine Awards. Together with the Douro, the southern Portuguese region is the country’s most consistent Gold and Platinum medal winner.’ This is particularly apt of 2020 results.

Receiving a minimum of 95 points, with a majority scoring 97 points, below discover the competition’s standouts…

Portugal’s top-scoring red wines: 15 to try

Alentejo

Carmim, Monsaraz Reserva 2017

Best in Show, 97 points

Alicante Bouschet is a teinturier (red-fleshed) variety, so the saturatedly dark colour of this Alentejo wine will come as no surprise. What might surprise Alentejo wine lovers is the fresh aromatic lift of its aromas, which surely owes much to its Touriga component, and the overall exuberance and zest of its flavours, which sees Trincadeira lend a helping hand. The result is another outstanding Value entry to our Best In Show selection: a keenly priced wine which not only delivers a huge wealth of flavour and texture, but which does so in balanced, even, nuanced style. It will make great drinking for the winter nights to come, but if you wanted to keep a bottle or two for half a decade, you might be in for yet another pleasant surprise.

Comenda Grande, Reserva 2014

Platinum, 97 points

A brooding blockbuster of dried red cherries, coffee and ripe plums with a luscious minty core; lavish and rich with lithe tannins, a gorgeous dollop of sumptuous caramel oak and a lengthy cocoa dusted finish.

Herdade do Peso, Trinca Bolotas Alicante Bouschet-Touriga Nacional-Aragonez 2018

Platinum, 97 points

A fabulous blend of fresh blackberry, tobacco and dark chocolate aromatics with enticing mille-feuille tannins leavening the layers of red and black fruit compote which line the juicy palate; incredibly smooth and rich with a lingering, spicy finish.

Herdade dos Lagos, HDL 2018

Platinum, 97 points

Bursting with mouth-watering blue and red fruit aromatics underpinned by a delicious dried herb and tapenade persistence; concentrated and hearty with soft, savoury tannins, a juicy bite of acidity and a long, focused finish. A gentle giant.

Tiago Cabaço, Blog 2017

Douro

Secret Spot 2016

Best in Show, 97 points

This dark, innately complex red wine is a testament to the astonishing potential of the Douro valley’s schist soils – and to the genetic old-vine patrimony which lies hidden there, deeply rooted and just waiting for sensitive vinification in order to find expression. That’s exactly what this wine has had. It’s not pretentiously oaky or shimmering with ambition; the fruited aromas, indeed, are almost gentle and discreet. The more you look, though, the more you will find. On the palate, too, the wine is relatively light-bodied and nimble on its feet, without a massive tannic presence. It’s that fruited complexity, once again, which hallmarks the wine’s quality, and which emerges with slow and meditative examination in the glass. This is a Douro classic of great purity and finesse.

Palato do Côa, Grande Reserva, Superior 2014

Platinum, 97 points

Flamboyant dark chocolate, liquorice and black cherry aromatics with a delicious savoury black olive caponata undertone; velvety and smooth with melting tannins and a touch of warming spice adding to the complexity. Long and beautiful.

Quinta da Pedra Alta, Pedra a Pedra 2017

Platinum, 97 points

Evoking a great sense of place with sumptuous layers of blackberries, blueberries and redcurrants permeated by a delicious core of schistous minerals and savoury elegance; with a rich, opulent texture, fine-grained tannins and a very long, intense finish.

Rui Roboredo Madeira, Quinta da Pedra Escrita 2017

Platinum, 97 points

A masterpiece of typicity with perfumed rosemary, thyme and lily aromatics interwoven with sour black cherries and blueberries and a firm clasp of oak. Concentrated and youthful with a vivid backbone of acidity and a long finish.

Quinta de Valbom, Reserva 2015

Gold, 96 points

Sumptuous milk chocolate laced cherries on the nose with a bursting sensation of unctuous mouth-watering fruit on the palate; textural with silky tannins and a long tobacco finish.

Quinta Vale D. Maria, Vinha da Francisca 2017

Gold, 96 points

A superb concentration of vivid black cherries, blueberries and fresh mint with a luxurious dust of warming cacao; hedonistic and flamboyant with velvety tannins and a long finish.

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Search all DWWA 2020 results

Decanter World Wine Awards home

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Results for the Decanter World Wine Awards 2021 will be announced this July on Decanter.com

Cooking with wine can really help enhance a dish, whether that’s adding some to a slow cooked meaty sauce, a splash as you start a risotto or even as a marinade.

But given how much thought goes into choosing wine to drink, how much should you think about which wines you cook with?

Best wine for cooking – and what not to use

‘The cardinal rule is if you wouldn’t drink it, you shouldn’t cook with it,’ said food and wine expert Fiona Beckett in Decanter magazine.

This is why you shouldn’t use corked wines in cooking. ‘The cork taint will come through in the finished dish.’

Avoid cheap ‘cooking wines’ say our experts, and stick to the level of wines you would tend to drink.

‘At best they won’t add anything to your finished dish, and at worst they’ll actively make it unpleasant,’ Pete Dreyer, food writer at Great British Chefs, previously told Decanter.com.

However, don’t feel you have to use an expensive wine, said Beckett, who wrote The Wine Lover’s Kitchen: Delicious recipes for cooking with wine.

A bottle around the £8 mark should be fine.

‘The only time to [use more expensive wine] is if a dish needs only a small amount of wine and you’d otherwise have to open another bottle,’ wrote Beckett in The Wine Lover’s Kitchen.

For example, her book includes a Champagne and mushroom risotto recipe.

‘It might seem wantonly extravagant…. But you need only a glass and the bonus is that you can drink the rest with the risotto.’

If you are going to use a separate wine for cooking with, you could take inspiration from the style you would drink with the dish, but go for a cheaper alternative.

‘An inexpensive Côtes du Rhône, for example, in a dish with which you’d drink a Gigondas,’ suggested Beckett.

If you’re worried about needing to open a bottle that then won’t be drunk, try this hack:

‘Freeze leftover wine in an ice cube tray and keep the cubes handy in a freezer bag to add to a dish,’ she wrote.

Cooking with white wine

Dishes that could use some white wine include risottos, white wine sauces (of course) or coq au Riesling.

As a starting point, crisp, dry, unoaked whites work well.

‘Pinot Grigio is really versatile – also Sauvignon Blanc; those are the two I would reach for first, and unoaked Chardonnay is fine,’ said Dreyer.

‘In most sauces, the most important thing is to consider the sweetness and acidity. As you cook off the alcohol and reduce the wine, both will become more pronounced, so you’re best off sticking to dry whites, with a reasonable amount of acidity.’

However, you could use a more aromatic variety if you wanted to.

Beckett wrote, ‘Wines with a pronounced aromatic character, such as Riesling or Gewürztraminer, are less flexible, but may turn out to be delicious with, for example, a creamy sauce. Feel free to experiment.’

‘When cooking fish, I often use Gewürztraminer as it holds its character and aromas,’ said chef Raymond Blanc, in the June 2021 issue of Decanter magazine. 

Cooking with red wine

The best red wines to cook with are medium-bodied but not overly tannic, like Merlot or Grenache.

Tannins in wine become more concentrated as you cook them, so a tannic wine may dry out the dish or cause astringent flavours.

‘If cooking with reds, I avoid Pinot Noir. It is too elegant for the heat of a pan. Instead I reach for something inexpensive, big, spicy and rich,’ said Blanc.

Red wine isn’t just for meaty sauces.

‘You might not think of pouring red wine into a risotto but with beetroot it works beautifully,’ suggested Beckett.

Dryer added, ‘It seems a bit weird, but it can work with flavours that traditionally accompany red wine – for example, mushroom risotto can work with red or white wine.’

Fortified wines, such as Sherry, Madeira and Marsala, are also great for cooking.

A small quantity adds strength, depth and often a welcome sweetness. Some recommend Vermouth for risottos too.

If you cook with wine is there any alcohol left in the dish?

‘There is a widespread misconception that it all cooks out, but unless you’re cooking the dish for three hours or more there will be a residue – depending on how much wine you’ve used,’ said Beckett.

‘Worth bearing in mind if you’re cooking for kids or non-drinkers.’

‘It isn’t essential, but before cooking with wine – red or white – I boil it for 10-20 seconds, removing most of the alcohol and intensifying the flavours,’ said Blanc.

Fiona Beckett also blogs on her own website, Matching Food And Wine

This article was originally published in 2017 and has been updated in 2021.

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Mags Janjo DipWSET joins the 2021 Decanter Retailer Awards judging panel alongside returning industry experts Peter Richards MW (Chairman), Andy Howard MW, Laura Clay and Peter Ranscombe.

With more than a decade of industry experience across wine retail, sales and brand creation, Janjo now has his own importer company, MJ Wine Cellars, offering wine education and consultancy services.

In 2020 he partnered with Jancis Robinson OBE MW to launch the BAME Wine Professionals website – an initiative to shine light on wine talent in the Black, Asian and Minority Ethnic communities (BAME).

With entries now open for the 2021 competition, we get to know more about the newest member of the Decanter Retailer Awards panel, including his views on wine retail in the UK, wine buying tips and what he looks forward to most about judging.

Q&A with Mags Janjo, Decanter Retailer Awards 2021 judge

Tell us about yourself. How did you get into the wine industry?

Like most in the trade, I’d say I ‘fell into this wonderful industry.’ Having completed Maths and Sciences at 6^thform, I was fortunate enough to work for an employer who sponsored the WSET Level 2 in Wines and Spirits. I quickly realised that what I had studied at college, neatly dovetailed into the world of wine. There was no turning back once I’d caught the bug! I went on to occupy sales roles to the on and off-trade and eventually set up and MJ Wine Cellars in 2019.

As a new judge to the 2021 panel, what’s your impression of the Decanter Retailer Awards?

The DRA is one of the most recognisable industry awards and holds remarkable weight and credibility across both the on and off trade. Merchants around the UK proudly display their Decanter Awards in shop fronts and comms. It’s really thrilling to be part of the judging team this year!

What do you think is unique about the UK wine retail industry?

The UK retail scene offers unparalleled depth and value. Curated by the wonderfully talented buyers, consumers are treated to wines from all corners of the globe – which we sometimes take for granted. It’s a stark contrast to some countries, where the wine selection can be extremely nationally or even regionally focussed. It’s a blessing that we live in such a marginal climate – it forces us to import almost everything we consume!

What, for you, makes a wine retailer stand out?

The key word must be value. It must offer bang for your buck, no matter what region or category it specialises in. Once that’s at its core, most things tend to follow.

Wine retailers have had to quickly adjust due to Covid. Is there anything you’ve noticed retailers doing that has impressed you?

Wine retail relies on tastings and samplings. The way the retailers adapted to offering online alternatives has been hugely impressive. This goes beyond just tastings – we have seen producer Zoom calls, interactive sessions, wine courses, etc switch to a digital delivery which is particularly impressive, as the wine world is not known for being particularly tech savvy!

In the past 12 months, what have been the biggest challenges and/or successes facing your business?

Moving wine from Europe to the UK has been more costly and more importantly, more time consuming. That screw was further tightened by the pandemic. A much less talked about issue has been cash flow. Most of the trade works on 30, 60 or 90 days credit terms, with stock from Europe typically taking a week or two from cellar door to UK bonded warehouse. An extreme example was a wine taking 5 weeks from Austria, giving the importer just over 15 business days before the invoice was due!

What tips do you have for someone buying wine in the UK?

Travel off the beaten path – there are so many remarkable regions and wines in the country. Eastern Europe, Cyprus, Hungary, Georgia… these are all new frontiers to explore!

What do you look forward to most as a new judge on the 2021 panel?

Sitting on the other side of the table is set to be incredible amounts of fun, having worked for so many retailers who traditionally entered the DRA under various categories. I’m really looking forward to getting stuck in!*

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Enter Decanter Retailer Awards 2021 now

Decanter Retailer Awards 2020 Results

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*We trust our judges’ integrity, but to avoid any questionable conflicts of interest, Mags will not judge the Subscription Wine Club and Online Retailer categories.

Since its launch in 1987, Mar de Frades has occupied a place at the vanguard of progress for both the Rías Baixas region and its signature grape: Albariño. It has released the first sparking Albariño, as well as creating a dessert wine from the varietal, which will be released in October. Arguably, however, the most prominent aspect of the winery’s pioneering approach is its exploration of the territory of Rías Baixas, seeking out contrasts between its five sub-regions with the goal of expressing these differences through unique wines.

Such efforts were first realised with Finca Valiñas, a wine crafted from vines grown in Salnés Valley, the best-known zone of Rías Baixas. Planted in 1975, Mar de Frades calls this hillside vineyard encircled by eucalyptus trees and facing the sea, its ‘grand cru’. The free-draining, shallow and granitic soils temper the effects of Atlantic-driven rainfall, while the slightly earlier picking and higher altitude further elevate acidity and freshness.

The grapes grown here produce a wine with enough structure to develop in complexity during a long maturation period; the 2016 vintage has only been recently released. Winemaker Paula Fandiño explains: ‘This is an old vineyard which maintains a unique freshness that you do not find in lower parts of the valley, making it possible to vinify wines for ageing.’

Grapes are macerated for 36 to 40 hours at 10°C to 14°C to extract more saline essence and gain aromatic complexity; then after fermentation, the wine rests on its lees for the first year.

‘To begin lees-stirring and ageing the wine straight after fermentation would be a mistake,’ says Fandiño. ‘We need at least one year to be able to know and understand the wine, that is when we really see the varietal expression of Albariño and begin to sense notes of white flowers and fennel.’ What follows is further, slightly more proactive ageing, which is divided between battonage and periods of rest, as well as six months in new French oak.

Ribera del Ulla

From October of this year, Finca Valiñas will have a new stablemate, as ongoing research and investigation by Mar de Frades has identified a suitable addition to its ‘Finca’ project. Finca Monteveiga is a plot of vines in Ribera del Ulla, the most youthful of all the Rías Baixas zones, which was only officially recognised in 2000.

Ribera del Ulla is not only marginally further north than Salnés Valley, but the vineyards sit at a slightly higher altitude and receive approximately 25% less annual rainfall. Characterised by the Ulla River, which forms a spine that runs through undulating terrain composed of sandy soils, Ribera del Ulla currently accounts for a mere 5% of total production of Rías Baixas. Although a liqueur called Orujo – produced from grape pomace – has long been made here, this province is known more for livestock than vines.

The slightly cooler conditions mean that Ribera del Ulla is more suited to the growing influence of climate change, while being situated further inland gives the area a notable continental influence, which equals cooler nights, warmer summers and colder winters, plus a longer growing season.

Distinctive wines

‘Although it is further north and not so close to the coast, Ribera del Ulla’s climate is still marked by the river,’ says Fandiño. ‘Our plots were planted in 2004 using high trellises, with reduced yields and less intensive viticulture. Furthermore, as there is reduced Atlantic influence, we are able to extend the ripening period, thereby increasing the terpenic aromas of the grapes, so the wines show intensely ripe apple and peach notes in addition to more balsamic aromas like mint and eucalyptus. We know that this area has a lot to offer, and that its soils and microclimate will give us elegant, long-lived wines.’

Certainly, with Finca Valiñas, Mar de Frades has already proved that if an uncompromising approach is adopted in both cellar and vineyard, Albariño from Rías Baixas is capable of producing world class wines that can age gracefully for many years. Now, with the imminent release of Finca Monteveiga, Mar de Frades intends to illustrate that Rías Baixas, far from being the homogenous, maritime region of popular opinion, is blessed with both climatic and geological nuances that are only just beginning to be revealed.

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Coming soon

Full Bordeaux 2020 en primeur verdict plus appellation overviews and top-scoring wines only on Decanter Premium

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For the second year running, this was an unusual en primeur season, where very few external tasters were able to get to Bordeaux.

But unlike last year’s 2019 vintage, which was tasted almost entirely from my kitchen table, I was able to visit a large number of properties for this campaign (with full precautions in place – Ducru-Beaucaillou, for example, was using medical-grade techniques to disinfect between each visitor).

Numbers of wines tasted will be around the same, somewhere between 700 and 800.

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Just published: Château Cheval Blanc 2020 release kick-starts en primeur campaign

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Bordeaux 2020 quality

The full notes will begin to be released in mid-May, but to give a taster, unquestionably Bordeaux has been lucky with the past three vintages, and there are plenty of options for drinkers, with each one of these three years performing strongly.

Having said that, they are quite different in style.

I would say 2018 is the most exuberant, 2020 the most structured and concentrated, while 2019 combines both and for me is the strongest of the three – certainly the most consistent.

Let’s breakdown some of the key points of what to expect in 2020, and where the values are:

Bordeaux 2020 is a year of contrasts, so it favoured terroirs that are best able to cope with the changes – and winemakers who were able to follow closely and help their vines adapt.

Yields overall were around 25% lower than in 2019, particularly with Cabernet Sauvignon but also Cabernet Franc in many cases.

This was true right from the moment of fruit set, and not just because of the dry summer, although that didn’t help.

This means small berries, thick skins, and lots of concentration; tannin management is key.

Bordeaux 2020 style

You can expect to find either racy, elegant tannins that power forward and give a sense of energy and direction, or tannins that are a little dry and sometimes underripe, particularly if the drought led to blockages.

Alcohols in 2020 are almost invariably lower compared to both 2018 and 2019.

That’s partly because August was dry but not unusually hot, and partly because the drought meant slow ripening, with the vines slowing down their growth cycle and so not building up huge sugar levels in the grapes.

You’ll find this true across both banks but especially in the Médoc.

It was also a year where talk of the death knell for Merlot looked pretty premature, because this was a great year for this grape variety – at least for Merlot on clay-limestone soils. Merlot on sand or gravel had a far harder time.

Key appellations

As clay-limestone soils did brilliantly, look for value in Castillon, Francs and Fronsac.

If you are a fan of classic, concentrated Pauillacs and St-Juliens, you are going to find plenty of brilliant wines.

But tread carefully with second wines in particular, even at the very top, because of the high tannic content that can sometimes stray way too close to the closing the whole thing down.

Key châteaux to look out for:

Canon, Troplong and Belair-Monange 2020 are brilliant examples of the reshaping of the St-Emilion limestone plateau wines into some of the most vibrant bottles you can find.

Rocheyron, Peter Sisseck’s St-Emilion Grand Cru, which is a little further away from these three but still on the limestone plateau, similarly proves the point.

This is the first certified organic vintage for L’Evangile in Pomerol, and there is a new winemaking team with Juliette Couderc (coming over from DBR Lafite’s Chinese estate Long Dai) and Olivier Trégoat.

You see a continued reframing of the wine to help it become a little more sculpted, as has been happening really since Saskia de Rothschild took over from her father Baron Eric at the head of DBR Lafite, and it is very successful.

In the Médoc, Calon Ségur has had a brilliant vintage, with a little more classic balance and St-Estèphe signature than this estate showed in 2018 and 2019. It is worth looking out for.

Montrose and Cos d’Estournel both add to the feeling that St-Estèphe has performed well in the vintage – as has Pauillac, particularly for lovers of deeply concentrated, powerful wines.

And talking of Left Bank signature, you are seeing more and more Cabernet Sauvignon in St-Emilion – it is striking how often you see it in the blend now, at estates including Château de Pressac, Faugères, Fonbel, Troplong Mondot, Clos Fourtet and Figeac, right through to Valandraud, Trottevielle, Fleur Cardinale and Bellefont Belcier.

A clear indicator of how estates are looking to counter increasingly hot dry summers – and one that shows the flexibility of the region’s winemakers while still working with the area’s signature varieties.

Finally, it maybe unusual to say at the start of a new campaign, but Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse 2019 deserves a shout-out, as the final wine that will be entirely made and aged by the Nicolas Thienpont team.

They have made this one of the most consistently exciting properties in St-Emilion over the past decade. Although I have no doubt the new team under Joséphine Duffau-Lagarosse will continue to make incredible wines here, it’s worth noting that this is a big change of personnel. Thienpont also made the 2020, so it’s his sign-off vintage, but he will not see it through ageing.

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Cheval Blanc 2020 release kick-starts Bordeaux en primeur

Bordeaux gears up for 2020 en primeur campaign

Château Cheval Blanc 2020 was released en primeur this morning (11 May) at €380 per bottle ex-Bordeaux.

That’s up by around 3.5% on the 2019 release and merchants were selling the wine for £4,656 per 12-bottle case in bond, according to Liv-ex.

It has the potential to be a 100-point wine in future, said Jane Anson after sampling Cheval Blanc 2020 as part of her Bordeaux en primeur tastings. Full report and tasting notes coming soon to Decanter Premium. 

She gave it 98 points, pending further assessment once bottled in around 18 months. ‘The wine feels full of life, with acidity that pulls the palate forward from the first moment,’ she said.

Cheval Blanc 2020 release analysis: ‘This should absolutely fly’ 

Cheval Blanc is also the first of the very top names to emerge in the Bordeaux 2020 en primeur campaign.

Its release may offer early clues about buyer sentiment following a relatively successful-yet-narrow campaign for Bordeaux 2019 en primeur wines last year, and signs of Bordeaux garnering greater enthusiasm on the fine wine market in general. 

‘The first key release out of the gate for 2020, Cheval Blanc complies with whispered requests from the international trade to keep prices around the same as last year,’ said analysis and research group Wine Lister. 

‘Given how well the welcome gesture on pricing worked last year (there appears to be little 2019 left on the market from reliable merchants), and Cheval Blanc’s impeccable quality track record, this should absolutely fly, marking a good start to the campaign.’

Matthew O’Connell, head of investment at Bordeaux Index, told Decanter, ‘Cheval’s somewhat unexpected release this morning appears well-judged price wise and we hope it will set the tone for the campaign.

‘The release ticks the two key boxes of being only slightly (2-3%) above the 2019 release in Sterling currency, and also then being the cheapest top-tier vintage in the market.’

Liv-ex said early reports suggested strong sales demand in general for Cheval Blanc 2020.

‘Cheval Blanc could very well set the pace for this year’s En Primeur campaign – with more major châteaux expected to release in the coming days.’

Liv-ex data showed Cheval Blanc 2020 was cheaper than the highly regarded 2018, 2016 and 2015 vintages.

However, it also said that buyers interested in ‘physical’ vintages might want to look at Cheval Blanc 2014, which was available at a discount of more than 20% on the new release.

Other releases so far include Château Doisy-Daëne 2020 in Barsac. It was released at €24 ex-Bordeaux, equal to the 2019 release price, with UK merchants selling 12 bottles for £290 in bond, according to Liv-ex.  

More releases are expected soon. ‘We should release everything in the second part of May and in June,’ Philippe Tapie, president of the Bordeaux Négoce committee for classified growths, told Decanter recently. 

Cheval Blanc 2020 release: See Jane Anson’s tasting note

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Bordeaux gears up for 2020 en primeur campaign

Anson: What’s new in Bordeaux in 2021?

How the Bordeaux 2008 first growths taste now

The aim in tasting wines before they arrive on the retailers’ shelves is simply to assess their future. Wines that are tasted en primeur are generally those from the most recent vintage, just a few months old, or the vintage before and almost always not yet in bottle. The exception is vintage Port, where vintages are declared during the second year after the harvest and only tasted once in bottle.

In my view, assessments for the future can only be based on form in the shape of as much background information as possible. When asked how I can judge a wine so young, I compare it to those who judge racehorses, about which I know very little: they know the sire and the dam (the parents of the yearling in question), their parents, and the breeding and bloodlines going back several generations. With knowledge of such breeding and of the stables that bred them, an expert can assess the future of a foal when it is barely able to gallop.

Such background is essential for judging young wines – the lack of which renders a judgement purely subjective. This is why I do not taste the Bordeaux primeurs blind, for the knowledge of the vineyard, age of the vines, track record over a decade or more and style of the estate gives me information for the just-made wine’s future. The main reason to taste blind is not to be influenced by the label, yet this is precisely the influence I am looking for. Moreover, with more and more châteaux staying outside the Union des Grands Crus tastings each April, these wines must be tasted at the property, often with the owner and winemaker present: the opposite of blind.

Tasting young wine: Judging quality

Given this background information, what does one look for? First, the absence of faults. Wines will have been drawn from barrel or tank, so no cork taint is possible, but any unclean aromas or flavours, volatile acidity or unnatural sweetness will disqualify the wine. Such wines are rare and quickly disposed of.

Judging too-young wines is purely analytical, not hedonistic, so negatives, if present, must be recognised before moving onto the positives. Such negatives are ‘too little’ or ‘too much’. Red wines that lack colour and fruit will be too thin; if they lack acidity or tannins they will not last well. Any evidence of exaggeration will, for me, go against a wine.

A Bordeaux vintage like 2010 had lots of fruit, colour, acidity and tannins, and masses of oak to come, but this was the style of the year. Lighter years like 2008 or 2012 will have less of everything, but the everything should be in balance. In fact, balance or harmony is the key word for a wine’s future. Imbalance of any kind will not lead to a good wine.

Wines in certain vintages will often be described, once mature, in comparative opposites, such as ‘a charming 2004’ or ‘a robust 2008’, characteristics that would have been only faintly present a few months after the vintage. If there is one single thing to look for in a young wine, it is harmony. Only then can relative quality and staying power be assessed.

One important assessment to make is when a wine will be best to drink. The French like their wines younger than do the British. Having worked for almost two decades in Paris, I agree with the former preference, while from my own cellar abiding by the latter. As Paul Pontallier of Château Margaux said (about Margaux, of course): ‘If a wine is good young, it is good at any age.’ I find that the drinking windows I give to young red wines, whether Bordeaux, Burgundy or Rhône, begin perhaps a year or two after bottling and end perhaps a decade or two later. This is not very helpful, but is usually true.

Tasting young wine: When to drink

The rule of thumb from those with a varied cellar is that the first three bottles from a case are drunk too young, the next six when they are maturing well and the final three on the way down. (The Branaire-Ducru 1996 I had recently, opened an hour before and decanted, was perfect. I have four bottles left.)

When a wine will ‘come round’ is less an issue today as it was in the past when, except in a few fortunate years, most estates could not risk waiting for total ripeness. Some of these wines never made it. I remember asking Anthony Barton when his 1937 (a hard vintage in Bordeaux, excellent in Burgundy) came round and he replied ‘40 years later, for about 15 minutes’.

Burgundy has less tannin than Bordeaux. After tasting at the Hospices de Beaune in 1979 with Lalou Bize-Leroy, she asked for my favourite wines and quickly dismissed them saying , ‘You, Steven, are tasting for now. I am tasting for the future.’

Nothing is truer than the adage ‘beauty is in the eye of the beholder’, but this emotional approach can only apply to a very young wine when, analytically, one is convinced of all of its qualities, which will always be in relation to its peers. Un bon petit vin is always preferable to un petit bon vin. What we are looking for is the probability of enjoyment for the future and that, almost always, will be evident from the start.

Spurrier’s tips for tasting young wine

• Know the characteristics of the vintage: weather patterns, early or late harvest, dry or wet. In short, know what to expect, for all assessments will be both individual to each wine and comparative to others.

• Look for harmony above anything else, which will be the overall impression; the sum of the parts.

• Beware of wines that are trying too hard, while dismissing those that have not tried hard enough.

• If white and reds are at the tasting, taste reds first, as their tannins will have a lesser effect on the subsequent whites than the white’s acidity would have on the reds.

• While being as analytical as possible, do not be afraid to have favourites.

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Look out for our Bordeaux 2020 en primeur report, tasting notes and scores, from Jane Anson, coming soon to Decanter Premium

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Jane Anson’s guide to tasting en primeur wines

Steven Spurrier’s top ten Bordeaux wines of all time

Coronavirus: Be sure to check the latest travel restrictions and refund policies before booking any trips abroad.  

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The largest of the five main Balearic islands, Mallorca has a reputation as a tourist hotspot for beach-loving sun seekers, but in fact most of the island north and east of its capital Palma is quite tranquil and bucolic, with charming, uncrowded rural landscapes, hamlets and villages. Take the scenic journey on the narrow-gauge railway from Palma to Port de Sóller to explore the Tramuntana mountain ridge, where you can go climbing or hiking, or cycle between wineries across the plain of Es Pla, with its low stone walls and peach and almond orchards.

The arts of viticulture and winemaking on the island go back at least to the Romans, but at the end of the 19th century the vineyards were devastated by phylloxera. Many of them were dug up, and viticulture didn’t really recover until late in the 20th century, when tourist demand for local wines led to the creation of the DOs of Binissalem (1991) on the edge of the Tramuntana, and Pla i Llevant (2001).

This has led to Mallorca having a surprising number of small wineries, now estimated at close to 100, developed by professionals and enthusiasts alike and geared towards quality wines and wine tourism. Palma de Mallorca is a convenient base, as it is easy to get to by plane or ferry – the latter from either Barcelona or Valencia, and a good option if you are already in mainland Spain and travelling by car. Over the past few years, the picturesque old town of Palma has been sensitively restored, so there is plenty to see and do (and taste!). From here, you can rent a car to get around the island. Nothing is too far away, and there are also regular buses and trains to main destinations (Binissalem, Pollença, Manacor or Sóller).

Located in the centre of Manacor on the east side of the island, family-run Vins Miquel Gelabert was founded in 1985, when winemaking in Mallorca was just beginning its recovery. Ex-chef Miquel Gelabert is affectionately known as ‘the madman of Manacor’ due to the sheer number (up to 27) of individual wines that he produces annually, along with his oenologist son. They cultivate more than 30 native and international grape varieties (some in experimentation), spread over 10.5ha of vines in 18 plots in and around Manacor. Not to be missed classics are Gran Vinya Son Caules and Sa Vall Selecció Privada, both DO Pla i Llevant, which you can try by booking a visit and tasting.

Half an hour’s drive from Palma, in Algaída, central Mallorca, you’ll find Can Majoral, founded in 1979 by Andreu Oliver, who is now assisted by his daughter Mireia and their cousin Andreu, also winemakers. In 1994, Can Majoral became the first producer in Mallorca, and second in Spain, to achieve organic certification. Oliver and his team have added a range of native grapes – including Callet, Giró Ros, Gorgollassa and Manto Negro – to the original international varieties to create characterful quality wines under the Pla i Llevant DO.

The estate’s 19ha now produce some 70,000 bottles in two ranges: Can Majoral and ButiBalausí (young wines). They maintain the tradition of a full-moon harvest, with 400-500 mostly local volunteers working until midnight, finishing with a meal in the vineyard. Tastings for up to 25 people are offered by appointment.

Call Francesc Grimalt a weirdo if you will, he doesn’t mind at all. In fact, the winemaker at 4 Kilos Vinícola prides himself on going his own way. One of the founders of Anima Negra in the southeast of the island, with nearly 30 years in the industry, Grimalt joined forces with Sergio Caballero in 2006 to embark on an organic approach to winemaking, creating mini-ecosystems with indigenous grapes and plants working in harmony. Their two signature brands – 4 Kilos and 12 Volts, both under the Vi de la Terra Mallorca designation – produce light, aromatic, terroir-driven wines that have been making a name for themselves both locally and abroad. For an informal straight-from-the-barrel winery experience in a converted sheep barn at their bodega, just outside Felanitx, book a tasting via the email address on the 4 Kilos website.

The first thing to catch your eye as you enter the village of Biniali, just south of Binissalem in the heart of Mallorca, is the striking modern structure that houses the Binigrau winery. In 2005, brothers Matías, Miquel and Sebastián Batle Pastor, having sold the family-run Bodegas Macià Batle in 2003, combined their talents to create a new project that reflected their love and respect for the land where they grew up. Here tradition meets evolution, with 55ha of old and new vines, along with modern technology, producing quality Vi de la Terra Mallorca wines that express the essence of terroir and respect age-old harvesting methods. Native grapes include Callet, Manto Negro and Prensal. Tours are available by appointment and include a tasting of four or five wines with snacks.

Finally, during your stay on Mallorca, keep an eye out for wines from two more standout bodegas that are working wonders with indigenous Callet and Manto Negro old vines. At Anima Negra philosopher-winemakers Pere Obrador and Miquel Angel Cedà are creating expressive Callet whites, designated as Vi de la Terra Mallorca, from their small bodega in Felanitx. Meanwhile, young fifth-generation oenologist Tomeu Llabrés at Ca’n Verdura near Binissalem works his magic with Manto Negro grapes from vines recovered from his grandfather’s estate, producing both DO Binissalem and Vi de la Terra Mallorca wines. Although these humble winery installations preclude visits, you can find both producers’ wines at select shops and restaurants throughout the island, and private delivery can also be arranged via their websites. Worth seeking out.

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Mallorca travel guide: accommodation

Finca Serena

Luxury five-star hotel on a 40ha estate hidden away in Montuïri in the centre of Mallorca, with its own gardens and orchards. The spectacular Jacaranda restaurant has a daily menu and long list of local and international wines.

Hotel Cort

This urban boutique hotel in Plaça de Cort, the heart of Palma old town, faces Palma’s handsome 17th- century town hall and the city’s emblematic ancient olive tree. Has 14 suites and two double rooms.

Hotel Sant Francesc

A five-star hotel in a 19th-century mansion in Palma old town, with 32 rooms and 10 suites, decorated with original contemporary art and photography. Has a restaurant and a rooftop terrace with a pool.

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Mallorca travel guide: restaurants to visit

Andana

In the very centre of Palma. Michelin-star chef Macarena de Castro offers local Mallorcan cuisine from her own gardens with a dining room, terrace and bar.

Aromata

Owned and run by Michelin-star chef Andreu Genestra. Traditional island ingredients served in a 17th-century courtyard in Palma. Fine-dining set lunches and an à la carte evening menu.

Ses Oliveres

Second-generation traditional family restaurant overlooking the harbour of Port de Sóller, specialising in seafood and local wines (ask for Bruno).

Restaurante Miceli

Found in the pretty town of Selva. Enjoy splendid views from the terrace of this 19th-century Mallorcan house where chef Marga Coll was born and raised.

La Fonda

Soak up the local atmosphere by going for an evening stroll and enjoying delicious traditional tapas and excellent local wines at La Fonda.

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Getting there

There are frequent flights from various destinations in Europe to Palma de Mallorca. A rented car is best for visiting the vineyards, but there are regular buses or trains from Palma to many inland destinations.

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