Wines

Today (15 May) is World Whisky Day – a global celebration of all things whisky established in 2012 by Blair Bowman when he was a student at the University of Aberdeen.

Held on the third Saturday in May every year, WWD is normally a heady mix of events, tastings and get-togethers, although current Covid-19 restrictions have rendered most of these virtual and distanced.

But that doesn’t detract from the central message of the day, which is to celebrate the best whiskies: wherever it comes from and however you like to drink it – neat, with water or ice, mixed or in a cocktail. Anything goes, as long as it’s fun and accessible (and, of course, responsible).

It’s the perfect time to get acquainted – or reacquainted – with whisky friends old and new, so here’s a globetrotting selection of new releases, from the Highlands to Vermont.

Best new release whiskies for World Whisky Day

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Aberlour Distillery Reserve Collection 16 Year Old

If those cold spring nights return, dig out this beast of a Sherry cask single malt from Speyside. Darkly meaty and savoury, it’s bottled at a formidable strength, so don’t be shy with the water and you’ll tease out some orchard fruits and grassy notes to lighten an unctuous mix of dark chocolate, hazelnut praline and tarry liquorice. Alc 59.1%

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Blair Athol 2009 11 Year Old

Another distillate of huge character, in relatively understated form here as part of independent bottler Single Malts of Scotland’s Reserve Casks Parcel No 5. Breezy cereal and citrus at first, then cinnamon-spiked pear, before the structure and grip show themselves in polished teak, cowshed and rich beef stock on the finish. Alc 48%

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Method & Madness Mulberry Wood

Now here’s a curiosity – an experimental single pot still whiskey that spent three to eight months being ‘finished’ in small, 50-litre mulberry casks sourced from Hungary. It’s a bit weird, but in a good way: aromas of honeysuckle, herbs and lanolin, and a palate of fiery black pepper and spice overlaid on honeyed pear. Alc 46%

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Nikka Whisky Taketsuru Pure Malt

Named after one of the pioneers of Japanese whisky, this combines distillates from Miyagikyo and Yoichi. The light spice and bright, creamy citrus on the nose is all Miyagikyo, the tangy, savoury smoke-tinged Plasticine on the palate Yoichi. Together they make for a characterful insight into the Japanese art of whisky making. Alc 43%

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The Oxford Artisan Distillery Oxford Rye Whisky Batch #1

A rye-heavy mix of heritage grains, an idiosyncratic production process and three years in virgin American oak make for an obviously youthful but highly distinctive English whisky, with warm spices, black banana and vanilla spiked by feisty rye pepper and spice. More batches to follow – and each will be subtly different. Alc 46.3%

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Waterford Grattansbrook 1.1

This ‘Single Farm Origin’ whiskey uses Taberna barley harvested in 2015 at Grattansbrook Farm in Co Kildare, spending almost four years in a mix of cask types. Sweet, oily and appealing, with a scented nose of light cereal, zesty tangerine and fragrant lime flower, then honeyed banana, fruit syrup and the grip of wood tannin on the palate. Alc 50%

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Whistlepig Single Barrel 10 Year Old Rye Whiskey

Distilled in Canada and matured in Vermont by late Whistlepig Master Distiller Dave Pickerell, this Jeroboams’ exclusive is more subtle and elegant than many ryes, combining high-toned red fruits with scents of caraway and herbes de Provence. The texture is glorious, and the mouthwatering finish shows light toffee and Jamaica gingerbread. Alc 55.8%

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X by Glenmorangie

A single malt explicitly created for cocktails and mixed drinks in partnership with bartenders, this is a richer, sweeter riff on the regular Glenmo style, with stewed apples, orange cordial and hot buttered toast with a slathering of honey. It is great for cocktails – but you shouldn’t be shy about doing that with single malts anyway! Alc 40%

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From starting life as ‘a bit of fun’ for World Whisky Day four years ago, the release of the latest Redbreast Dream Cask single pot still Irish whiskey has swiftly become one of the most anticipated events in the whisky calendar.

Only the finest casks, hand-selected by Midleton Distillery’s Master Blender Billy Leighton, are deemed worthy of consideration for Dream Cask status, and the latest release is no exception: Redbreast Dream Cask Oloroso Sherry Edition.

‘There is no greater joy in my job than to come across an excellent cask while conducting a sensory assessment of our whiskeys,’ says Leighton. ‘To craft the 2021 expression, we experimented with new ways of vatting, marrying and finishing to create something greater than the sum of its parts – and we are delighted with the result.’

The fourth Redbreast Dream Cask release has its roots in the creation of last year’s bottling, Redbreast Dream Cask Ruby Port Edition. At the time, Blender Dave McCabe had the idea of filling two casks – one seasoned with Port, the other with oloroso Sherry – and letting them mature in parallel. While the Port cask was bottled last year, the oloroso butt was left to mellow for a further 12 months.

‘The cask is giving additional, Sherry-derived flavours,’ explains McCabe, ‘but a lot of that additional time in cask is allowing the complexity to come through. There are extra layers of flavour that weren’t in the Port edition, and a subtlety to the spiciness.’

An exercise in complexity

Creating a Redbreast Dream Cask bottling is a complex exercise. The Oloroso Sherry Edition is a vatting of four single pot still whiskeys, all of them at least 29 years old and previously matured in ex-bourbon, ruby Port and Sherry casks before being combined in the oloroso Sherry butt.

The result is a whiskey of astounding complexity, encompassing everything from luscious berry fruit to raisins, baking spices and tangy marmalade. Mouth-filling and rich, but also of such impeccable balance and harmony that off-sets Redbreast’s trademarked spices, while also being perfectly approachable at its natural strength of 51.2% abv.

The release – available exclusively through an online ballot hosted on Redbreast’s members’ club, The Birdhouse, from Monday 17 May – provides a showcase for the highly distinctive single pot still style. The combination of malted and unmalted barley creates a uniquely silky, spicy spirit that combines perfectly with fine Sherry casks sourced from Jerez de la Frontera in Spain’s Andalusia.

The rise of Redbreast

That union of liquid and cask has been the secret of Redbreast’s global success; from the moment when wine merchant W&A Gilbey filled an empty Sherry cask with whiskey from John Jameson & Son’s Dublin distillery in the late 1800s, through the creation of the first Redbreast label in 1912, right up to the whiskey’s current renaissance.

Over the past decade, the Redbreast family has expanded, moving from an initial 12-year-old expression to include whiskeys at 15, 21 and 27 years of age, plus Redbreast Lustau Edition, created as a tribute to the Sherry industry.

In the process, Redbreast has become one of the world’s most prized whiskeys, with the Dream Cask bottlings cementing that lofty status. But these annual releases shouldn’t be taken for granted, explains Leighton.

‘We have ongoing trials, and when something pops out of those trials, then it’s great,’ he explains. ‘We have about 1.8 million casks of maturing whiskey, so it would be difficult not to have one of these coming around every year.

‘But I wouldn’t want to give a watertight guarantee – because we wouldn’t release one of these Dream Casks just for the sake of it.’

Only 924 bottles of Redbreast Dream Cask Oloroso Sherry Edition will be released, exclusively through an online ballot hosted on The Birdhouse. The ballot will be live from 17-25 May, when successful participants will be given the chance to purchase a 500ml bottle for €520.

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Redbreast Dream Cask Oloroso Sherry Edition: tasting notes

The distillery says:

‘A rich and complex array of aromas, with liquorice, dried fruits and a freshly crushed garden mint character to the fore, while dark berries and delicate touches of orange marmalade build over time, working in tandem with the pronounced aromas of worn leather, tobacco leaf and nutmeg. Cinnamon spice and sweet vanilla highlight the intricate nature of the oak, complementing and enhancing the pot still spices.

‘The palate is luscious and full, with succulent berry fruits, soft anise spice and mild tannins. The taste effortlessly evolves, with notes of dark brown sugar, vanilla and raisins adding a sweet element to create balance with the pot still spice, while cinnamon and nutmeg remain constant in the background. A lingering finish, with the spices slowly fading, allows the oak and fruit to have the final say.’

Decanter’s whisky expert Richard Woodard says:

‘Immediate impressions of opulence and intensity. A rich, seamless bouquet of dried apricot and raisin, then fragrant sandalwood lifted by zestier clementine notes. There’s a thread that moves from herbal through anise to dark liquorice, and you can feel the age in the nuttier elements, and the scent of old leather. Hugely complex, but never fragmented – held together by a silkily mouth-coating texture and plump, plummy fruit.’

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Styles to look for when pairing wine with salmon:

Style of salmon	Wine style
Seared salmon	Chilled Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
Smoked salmon	Blanc de blancs Champagne, English sparkling wine, Riesling, manzanilla Sherry
Herbs and citrus	Sauvignon Blanc
Sweet spice (ginger) or Miso	Pinot Gris, Riesling
Sushi	Sauvignon Blanc, especially Sancerre

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Wine with salmon: What the experts say

Salmon is a fairly versatile fish, so it’s going to depend on the type of salmon you’ve bought and what you do with it.

‘The wine pairing depends heavily on how the salmon is prepared and the accompanying side dishes,’ said Jolanta Dinnadge, speaking to Decanter as head sommelier at Corrigan’s Mayfair in 2019.

Can you drink red wine with salmon? 

While it’s a myth that red wine never matches with fish, it’s generally better to avoid bolder styles brimming with tannins.

‘An absolute no is to pair a full-bodied red wine with salmon as this will kill both the wine and the fish’s flavours,’ said Dinnadge, who is now group beverage manager of the Corrigan Collection.

High consumer demand means that farmed Atlantic salmon has become much more prevalent on dinner tables, and farmed varieties also tend to have a fattier texture than their wild cousins.

For seared salmon, and particularly farmed varieties, ‘the obvious choice is a chilled Pinot Noir’, said food and wine expert Fiona Beckett in a previous article for Decanter.

Pinot ‘picks up perfectly on the richness of the fish and the caramelised crust’, said Beckett, adding that Chardonnay is also worth considering.

What to drink with salmon with herbs and cream sauces

‘Taste is a personal sensation and unique to each individual,’ said Wilfried Rique, speaking to Decanter.com in 2019 as beverage director at Nobu Shoreditch. ‘However, I would say that there are a few essentials that are good to know.’

‘The minerality and herbaceous notes of a classic Sauvignon Blanc will match well with a salmon cooked with fine herbs and citrus,’ he said.

‘If the salmon is accompanied with butter and cream, you should go more for a Chardonnay with a bit of oak to highlight the fish.’

Spices 

Pairing wine with spicy food doesn’t have to be tricky.

Nobu is known for its seafood and also its Japanese flavours, such as wasabi and teriyaki sauces, as well as spice combinations involving ginger and garlic, plus also South American influences, such as jalapeno.

‘We like to choose a Riesling from Germany or a Pinot Gris from Alsace to enhance the flavours of salmon cooked with some spices, and sweetness from the miso sauce, for example,’ said Rique.

Drinking wine with smoked salmon

From Christmas morning tradition to classic canapés and light summer lunches, quality smoked salmon has a timeless appeal.

‘For a classic smoked salmon dish with onion, capers and a slice of lemon, a Riesling will be great,’ said Dinnadge, who picked out Trimbach’s Cuvée Frédéric Émile 2011 vintage from the Corigan’s Mayfair wine list at the time.

Others prefer sparkling wines, and particularly those made with Chardonnay in a blanc de blancs style.

Matthieu Longuère MS, of Le Cordon Bleu London, suggested a vintage English sparkling wine with smoked salmon canapés when writing on the subject for Decanter.com.

‘Thanks to its high acidity, it should also handle the saltiness of smoked salmon,’ he said.

‘For Chardonnay Champagne, smoked salmon on toast is best, with crème fraiche,’ said Thomas Laculle-Moutard, of Laculle and Moutard Champagne houses, speaking on the sidelines of Decanter’s Sparkling Exploration event in 2017.

Writing in Decanter back in 2007, Fiona Beckett recommended manzanilla Sherry with smoked salmon.

‘[It’s] not the most usual combination with smoked salmon but the most reliably consistent one,’ she said. ‘It goes without saying that the Sherry should be served chilled from a freshly opened bottle.’

Salmon Sushi

‘For sushi, as it is a small bite, I would recommend a crispy and citrusy wine, such as a Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay,’ said Rique.

Sauvignon from ‘Sancerre is a good go-to as it balances well with the acidity of the salmon but has enough strength to match with the bold note of the rice’.

This article has been updated in May 2021, including with new wine reviews. It was originally published in 2019. 

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Cooking with wine can really help enhance a dish, whether that’s adding some to a slow cooked meaty sauce, a splash as you start a risotto or even as a marinade.

But given how much thought goes into choosing wine to drink, how much should you think about which wines you cook with?

Best wine for cooking – and what not to use

‘The cardinal rule is if you wouldn’t drink it, you shouldn’t cook with it,’ said food and wine expert Fiona Beckett in Decanter magazine.

This is why you shouldn’t use corked wines in cooking. ‘The cork taint will come through in the finished dish.’

Avoid cheap ‘cooking wines’ say our experts, and stick to the level of wines you would tend to drink.

‘At best they won’t add anything to your finished dish, and at worst they’ll actively make it unpleasant,’ Pete Dreyer, food writer at Great British Chefs, previously told Decanter.com.

However, don’t feel you have to use an expensive wine, said Beckett, who wrote The Wine Lover’s Kitchen: Delicious recipes for cooking with wine.

A bottle around the £8 mark should be fine.

‘The only time to [use more expensive wine] is if a dish needs only a small amount of wine and you’d otherwise have to open another bottle,’ wrote Beckett in The Wine Lover’s Kitchen.

For example, her book includes a Champagne and mushroom risotto recipe.

‘It might seem wantonly extravagant…. But you need only a glass and the bonus is that you can drink the rest with the risotto.’

If you are going to use a separate wine for cooking with, you could take inspiration from the style you would drink with the dish, but go for a cheaper alternative.

‘An inexpensive Côtes du Rhône, for example, in a dish with which you’d drink a Gigondas,’ suggested Beckett.

If you’re worried about needing to open a bottle that then won’t be drunk, try this hack:

‘Freeze leftover wine in an ice cube tray and keep the cubes handy in a freezer bag to add to a dish,’ she wrote.

Cooking with white wine

Dishes that could use some white wine include risottos, white wine sauces (of course) or coq au Riesling.

As a starting point, crisp, dry, unoaked whites work well.

‘Pinot Grigio is really versatile – also Sauvignon Blanc; those are the two I would reach for first, and unoaked Chardonnay is fine,’ said Dreyer.

‘In most sauces, the most important thing is to consider the sweetness and acidity. As you cook off the alcohol and reduce the wine, both will become more pronounced, so you’re best off sticking to dry whites, with a reasonable amount of acidity.’

However, you could use a more aromatic variety if you wanted to.

Beckett wrote, ‘Wines with a pronounced aromatic character, such as Riesling or Gewürztraminer, are less flexible, but may turn out to be delicious with, for example, a creamy sauce. Feel free to experiment.’

‘When cooking fish, I often use Gewürztraminer as it holds its character and aromas,’ said chef Raymond Blanc, in the June 2021 issue of Decanter magazine. 

Cooking with red wine

The best red wines to cook with are medium-bodied but not overly tannic, like Merlot or Grenache.

Tannins in wine become more concentrated as you cook them, so a tannic wine may dry out the dish or cause astringent flavours.

‘If cooking with reds, I avoid Pinot Noir. It is too elegant for the heat of a pan. Instead I reach for something inexpensive, big, spicy and rich,’ said Blanc.

Red wine isn’t just for meaty sauces.

‘You might not think of pouring red wine into a risotto but with beetroot it works beautifully,’ suggested Beckett.

Dryer added, ‘It seems a bit weird, but it can work with flavours that traditionally accompany red wine – for example, mushroom risotto can work with red or white wine.’

Fortified wines, such as Sherry, Madeira and Marsala, are also great for cooking.

A small quantity adds strength, depth and often a welcome sweetness. Some recommend Vermouth for risottos too.

If you cook with wine is there any alcohol left in the dish?

‘There is a widespread misconception that it all cooks out, but unless you’re cooking the dish for three hours or more there will be a residue – depending on how much wine you’ve used,’ said Beckett.

‘Worth bearing in mind if you’re cooking for kids or non-drinkers.’

‘It isn’t essential, but before cooking with wine – red or white – I boil it for 10-20 seconds, removing most of the alcohol and intensifying the flavours,’ said Blanc.

Fiona Beckett also blogs on her own website, Matching Food And Wine

This article was originally published in 2017 and has been updated in 2021.

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Mags Janjo DipWSET joins the 2021 Decanter Retailer Awards judging panel alongside returning industry experts Peter Richards MW (Chairman), Andy Howard MW, Laura Clay and Peter Ranscombe.

With more than a decade of industry experience across wine retail, sales and brand creation, Janjo now has his own importer company, MJ Wine Cellars, offering wine education and consultancy services.

In 2020 he partnered with Jancis Robinson OBE MW to launch the BAME Wine Professionals website – an initiative to shine light on wine talent in the Black, Asian and Minority Ethnic communities (BAME).

With entries now open for the 2021 competition, we get to know more about the newest member of the Decanter Retailer Awards panel, including his views on wine retail in the UK, wine buying tips and what he looks forward to most about judging.

Q&A with Mags Janjo, Decanter Retailer Awards 2021 judge

Tell us about yourself. How did you get into the wine industry?

Like most in the trade, I’d say I ‘fell into this wonderful industry.’ Having completed Maths and Sciences at 6^thform, I was fortunate enough to work for an employer who sponsored the WSET Level 2 in Wines and Spirits. I quickly realised that what I had studied at college, neatly dovetailed into the world of wine. There was no turning back once I’d caught the bug! I went on to occupy sales roles to the on and off-trade and eventually set up and MJ Wine Cellars in 2019.

As a new judge to the 2021 panel, what’s your impression of the Decanter Retailer Awards?

The DRA is one of the most recognisable industry awards and holds remarkable weight and credibility across both the on and off trade. Merchants around the UK proudly display their Decanter Awards in shop fronts and comms. It’s really thrilling to be part of the judging team this year!

What do you think is unique about the UK wine retail industry?

The UK retail scene offers unparalleled depth and value. Curated by the wonderfully talented buyers, consumers are treated to wines from all corners of the globe – which we sometimes take for granted. It’s a stark contrast to some countries, where the wine selection can be extremely nationally or even regionally focussed. It’s a blessing that we live in such a marginal climate – it forces us to import almost everything we consume!

What, for you, makes a wine retailer stand out?

The key word must be value. It must offer bang for your buck, no matter what region or category it specialises in. Once that’s at its core, most things tend to follow.

Wine retailers have had to quickly adjust due to Covid. Is there anything you’ve noticed retailers doing that has impressed you?

Wine retail relies on tastings and samplings. The way the retailers adapted to offering online alternatives has been hugely impressive. This goes beyond just tastings – we have seen producer Zoom calls, interactive sessions, wine courses, etc switch to a digital delivery which is particularly impressive, as the wine world is not known for being particularly tech savvy!

In the past 12 months, what have been the biggest challenges and/or successes facing your business?

Moving wine from Europe to the UK has been more costly and more importantly, more time consuming. That screw was further tightened by the pandemic. A much less talked about issue has been cash flow. Most of the trade works on 30, 60 or 90 days credit terms, with stock from Europe typically taking a week or two from cellar door to UK bonded warehouse. An extreme example was a wine taking 5 weeks from Austria, giving the importer just over 15 business days before the invoice was due!

What tips do you have for someone buying wine in the UK?

Travel off the beaten path – there are so many remarkable regions and wines in the country. Eastern Europe, Cyprus, Hungary, Georgia… these are all new frontiers to explore!

What do you look forward to most as a new judge on the 2021 panel?

Sitting on the other side of the table is set to be incredible amounts of fun, having worked for so many retailers who traditionally entered the DRA under various categories. I’m really looking forward to getting stuck in!*

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Enter Decanter Retailer Awards 2021 now

Decanter Retailer Awards 2020 Results

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*We trust our judges’ integrity, but to avoid any questionable conflicts of interest, Mags will not judge the Subscription Wine Club and Online Retailer categories.

Since its launch in 1987, Mar de Frades has occupied a place at the vanguard of progress for both the Rías Baixas region and its signature grape: Albariño. It has released the first sparking Albariño, as well as creating a dessert wine from the varietal, which will be released in October. Arguably, however, the most prominent aspect of the winery’s pioneering approach is its exploration of the territory of Rías Baixas, seeking out contrasts between its five sub-regions with the goal of expressing these differences through unique wines.

Such efforts were first realised with Finca Valiñas, a wine crafted from vines grown in Salnés Valley, the best-known zone of Rías Baixas. Planted in 1975, Mar de Frades calls this hillside vineyard encircled by eucalyptus trees and facing the sea, its ‘grand cru’. The free-draining, shallow and granitic soils temper the effects of Atlantic-driven rainfall, while the slightly earlier picking and higher altitude further elevate acidity and freshness.

The grapes grown here produce a wine with enough structure to develop in complexity during a long maturation period; the 2016 vintage has only been recently released. Winemaker Paula Fandiño explains: ‘This is an old vineyard which maintains a unique freshness that you do not find in lower parts of the valley, making it possible to vinify wines for ageing.’

Grapes are macerated for 36 to 40 hours at 10°C to 14°C to extract more saline essence and gain aromatic complexity; then after fermentation, the wine rests on its lees for the first year.

‘To begin lees-stirring and ageing the wine straight after fermentation would be a mistake,’ says Fandiño. ‘We need at least one year to be able to know and understand the wine, that is when we really see the varietal expression of Albariño and begin to sense notes of white flowers and fennel.’ What follows is further, slightly more proactive ageing, which is divided between battonage and periods of rest, as well as six months in new French oak.

Ribera del Ulla

From October of this year, Finca Valiñas will have a new stablemate, as ongoing research and investigation by Mar de Frades has identified a suitable addition to its ‘Finca’ project. Finca Monteveiga is a plot of vines in Ribera del Ulla, the most youthful of all the Rías Baixas zones, which was only officially recognised in 2000.

Ribera del Ulla is not only marginally further north than Salnés Valley, but the vineyards sit at a slightly higher altitude and receive approximately 25% less annual rainfall. Characterised by the Ulla River, which forms a spine that runs through undulating terrain composed of sandy soils, Ribera del Ulla currently accounts for a mere 5% of total production of Rías Baixas. Although a liqueur called Orujo – produced from grape pomace – has long been made here, this province is known more for livestock than vines.

The slightly cooler conditions mean that Ribera del Ulla is more suited to the growing influence of climate change, while being situated further inland gives the area a notable continental influence, which equals cooler nights, warmer summers and colder winters, plus a longer growing season.

Distinctive wines

‘Although it is further north and not so close to the coast, Ribera del Ulla’s climate is still marked by the river,’ says Fandiño. ‘Our plots were planted in 2004 using high trellises, with reduced yields and less intensive viticulture. Furthermore, as there is reduced Atlantic influence, we are able to extend the ripening period, thereby increasing the terpenic aromas of the grapes, so the wines show intensely ripe apple and peach notes in addition to more balsamic aromas like mint and eucalyptus. We know that this area has a lot to offer, and that its soils and microclimate will give us elegant, long-lived wines.’

Certainly, with Finca Valiñas, Mar de Frades has already proved that if an uncompromising approach is adopted in both cellar and vineyard, Albariño from Rías Baixas is capable of producing world class wines that can age gracefully for many years. Now, with the imminent release of Finca Monteveiga, Mar de Frades intends to illustrate that Rías Baixas, far from being the homogenous, maritime region of popular opinion, is blessed with both climatic and geological nuances that are only just beginning to be revealed.

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The aim in tasting wines before they arrive on the retailers’ shelves is simply to assess their future. Wines that are tasted en primeur are generally those from the most recent vintage, just a few months old, or the vintage before and almost always not yet in bottle. The exception is vintage Port, where vintages are declared during the second year after the harvest and only tasted once in bottle.

In my view, assessments for the future can only be based on form in the shape of as much background information as possible. When asked how I can judge a wine so young, I compare it to those who judge racehorses, about which I know very little: they know the sire and the dam (the parents of the yearling in question), their parents, and the breeding and bloodlines going back several generations. With knowledge of such breeding and of the stables that bred them, an expert can assess the future of a foal when it is barely able to gallop.

Such background is essential for judging young wines – the lack of which renders a judgement purely subjective. This is why I do not taste the Bordeaux primeurs blind, for the knowledge of the vineyard, age of the vines, track record over a decade or more and style of the estate gives me information for the just-made wine’s future. The main reason to taste blind is not to be influenced by the label, yet this is precisely the influence I am looking for. Moreover, with more and more châteaux staying outside the Union des Grands Crus tastings each April, these wines must be tasted at the property, often with the owner and winemaker present: the opposite of blind.

Tasting young wine: Judging quality

Given this background information, what does one look for? First, the absence of faults. Wines will have been drawn from barrel or tank, so no cork taint is possible, but any unclean aromas or flavours, volatile acidity or unnatural sweetness will disqualify the wine. Such wines are rare and quickly disposed of.

Judging too-young wines is purely analytical, not hedonistic, so negatives, if present, must be recognised before moving onto the positives. Such negatives are ‘too little’ or ‘too much’. Red wines that lack colour and fruit will be too thin; if they lack acidity or tannins they will not last well. Any evidence of exaggeration will, for me, go against a wine.

A Bordeaux vintage like 2010 had lots of fruit, colour, acidity and tannins, and masses of oak to come, but this was the style of the year. Lighter years like 2008 or 2012 will have less of everything, but the everything should be in balance. In fact, balance or harmony is the key word for a wine’s future. Imbalance of any kind will not lead to a good wine.

Wines in certain vintages will often be described, once mature, in comparative opposites, such as ‘a charming 2004’ or ‘a robust 2008’, characteristics that would have been only faintly present a few months after the vintage. If there is one single thing to look for in a young wine, it is harmony. Only then can relative quality and staying power be assessed.

One important assessment to make is when a wine will be best to drink. The French like their wines younger than do the British. Having worked for almost two decades in Paris, I agree with the former preference, while from my own cellar abiding by the latter. As Paul Pontallier of Château Margaux said (about Margaux, of course): ‘If a wine is good young, it is good at any age.’ I find that the drinking windows I give to young red wines, whether Bordeaux, Burgundy or Rhône, begin perhaps a year or two after bottling and end perhaps a decade or two later. This is not very helpful, but is usually true.

Tasting young wine: When to drink

The rule of thumb from those with a varied cellar is that the first three bottles from a case are drunk too young, the next six when they are maturing well and the final three on the way down. (The Branaire-Ducru 1996 I had recently, opened an hour before and decanted, was perfect. I have four bottles left.)

When a wine will ‘come round’ is less an issue today as it was in the past when, except in a few fortunate years, most estates could not risk waiting for total ripeness. Some of these wines never made it. I remember asking Anthony Barton when his 1937 (a hard vintage in Bordeaux, excellent in Burgundy) came round and he replied ‘40 years later, for about 15 minutes’.

Burgundy has less tannin than Bordeaux. After tasting at the Hospices de Beaune in 1979 with Lalou Bize-Leroy, she asked for my favourite wines and quickly dismissed them saying , ‘You, Steven, are tasting for now. I am tasting for the future.’

Nothing is truer than the adage ‘beauty is in the eye of the beholder’, but this emotional approach can only apply to a very young wine when, analytically, one is convinced of all of its qualities, which will always be in relation to its peers. Un bon petit vin is always preferable to un petit bon vin. What we are looking for is the probability of enjoyment for the future and that, almost always, will be evident from the start.

Spurrier’s tips for tasting young wine

• Know the characteristics of the vintage: weather patterns, early or late harvest, dry or wet. In short, know what to expect, for all assessments will be both individual to each wine and comparative to others.

• Look for harmony above anything else, which will be the overall impression; the sum of the parts.

• Beware of wines that are trying too hard, while dismissing those that have not tried hard enough.

• If white and reds are at the tasting, taste reds first, as their tannins will have a lesser effect on the subsequent whites than the white’s acidity would have on the reds.

• While being as analytical as possible, do not be afraid to have favourites.

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Look out for our Bordeaux 2020 en primeur report, tasting notes and scores, from Jane Anson, coming soon to Decanter Premium

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Jane Anson’s guide to tasting en primeur wines

Steven Spurrier’s top ten Bordeaux wines of all time

Coronavirus: Be sure to check the latest travel restrictions and refund policies before booking any trips abroad.  

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The largest of the five main Balearic islands, Mallorca has a reputation as a tourist hotspot for beach-loving sun seekers, but in fact most of the island north and east of its capital Palma is quite tranquil and bucolic, with charming, uncrowded rural landscapes, hamlets and villages. Take the scenic journey on the narrow-gauge railway from Palma to Port de Sóller to explore the Tramuntana mountain ridge, where you can go climbing or hiking, or cycle between wineries across the plain of Es Pla, with its low stone walls and peach and almond orchards.

The arts of viticulture and winemaking on the island go back at least to the Romans, but at the end of the 19th century the vineyards were devastated by phylloxera. Many of them were dug up, and viticulture didn’t really recover until late in the 20th century, when tourist demand for local wines led to the creation of the DOs of Binissalem (1991) on the edge of the Tramuntana, and Pla i Llevant (2001).

This has led to Mallorca having a surprising number of small wineries, now estimated at close to 100, developed by professionals and enthusiasts alike and geared towards quality wines and wine tourism. Palma de Mallorca is a convenient base, as it is easy to get to by plane or ferry – the latter from either Barcelona or Valencia, and a good option if you are already in mainland Spain and travelling by car. Over the past few years, the picturesque old town of Palma has been sensitively restored, so there is plenty to see and do (and taste!). From here, you can rent a car to get around the island. Nothing is too far away, and there are also regular buses and trains to main destinations (Binissalem, Pollença, Manacor or Sóller).

Located in the centre of Manacor on the east side of the island, family-run Vins Miquel Gelabert was founded in 1985, when winemaking in Mallorca was just beginning its recovery. Ex-chef Miquel Gelabert is affectionately known as ‘the madman of Manacor’ due to the sheer number (up to 27) of individual wines that he produces annually, along with his oenologist son. They cultivate more than 30 native and international grape varieties (some in experimentation), spread over 10.5ha of vines in 18 plots in and around Manacor. Not to be missed classics are Gran Vinya Son Caules and Sa Vall Selecció Privada, both DO Pla i Llevant, which you can try by booking a visit and tasting.

Half an hour’s drive from Palma, in Algaída, central Mallorca, you’ll find Can Majoral, founded in 1979 by Andreu Oliver, who is now assisted by his daughter Mireia and their cousin Andreu, also winemakers. In 1994, Can Majoral became the first producer in Mallorca, and second in Spain, to achieve organic certification. Oliver and his team have added a range of native grapes – including Callet, Giró Ros, Gorgollassa and Manto Negro – to the original international varieties to create characterful quality wines under the Pla i Llevant DO.

The estate’s 19ha now produce some 70,000 bottles in two ranges: Can Majoral and ButiBalausí (young wines). They maintain the tradition of a full-moon harvest, with 400-500 mostly local volunteers working until midnight, finishing with a meal in the vineyard. Tastings for up to 25 people are offered by appointment.

Call Francesc Grimalt a weirdo if you will, he doesn’t mind at all. In fact, the winemaker at 4 Kilos Vinícola prides himself on going his own way. One of the founders of Anima Negra in the southeast of the island, with nearly 30 years in the industry, Grimalt joined forces with Sergio Caballero in 2006 to embark on an organic approach to winemaking, creating mini-ecosystems with indigenous grapes and plants working in harmony. Their two signature brands – 4 Kilos and 12 Volts, both under the Vi de la Terra Mallorca designation – produce light, aromatic, terroir-driven wines that have been making a name for themselves both locally and abroad. For an informal straight-from-the-barrel winery experience in a converted sheep barn at their bodega, just outside Felanitx, book a tasting via the email address on the 4 Kilos website.

The first thing to catch your eye as you enter the village of Biniali, just south of Binissalem in the heart of Mallorca, is the striking modern structure that houses the Binigrau winery. In 2005, brothers Matías, Miquel and Sebastián Batle Pastor, having sold the family-run Bodegas Macià Batle in 2003, combined their talents to create a new project that reflected their love and respect for the land where they grew up. Here tradition meets evolution, with 55ha of old and new vines, along with modern technology, producing quality Vi de la Terra Mallorca wines that express the essence of terroir and respect age-old harvesting methods. Native grapes include Callet, Manto Negro and Prensal. Tours are available by appointment and include a tasting of four or five wines with snacks.

Finally, during your stay on Mallorca, keep an eye out for wines from two more standout bodegas that are working wonders with indigenous Callet and Manto Negro old vines. At Anima Negra philosopher-winemakers Pere Obrador and Miquel Angel Cedà are creating expressive Callet whites, designated as Vi de la Terra Mallorca, from their small bodega in Felanitx. Meanwhile, young fifth-generation oenologist Tomeu Llabrés at Ca’n Verdura near Binissalem works his magic with Manto Negro grapes from vines recovered from his grandfather’s estate, producing both DO Binissalem and Vi de la Terra Mallorca wines. Although these humble winery installations preclude visits, you can find both producers’ wines at select shops and restaurants throughout the island, and private delivery can also be arranged via their websites. Worth seeking out.

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Mallorca travel guide: accommodation

Finca Serena

Luxury five-star hotel on a 40ha estate hidden away in Montuïri in the centre of Mallorca, with its own gardens and orchards. The spectacular Jacaranda restaurant has a daily menu and long list of local and international wines.

Hotel Cort

This urban boutique hotel in Plaça de Cort, the heart of Palma old town, faces Palma’s handsome 17th- century town hall and the city’s emblematic ancient olive tree. Has 14 suites and two double rooms.

Hotel Sant Francesc

A five-star hotel in a 19th-century mansion in Palma old town, with 32 rooms and 10 suites, decorated with original contemporary art and photography. Has a restaurant and a rooftop terrace with a pool.

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Mallorca travel guide: restaurants to visit

Andana

In the very centre of Palma. Michelin-star chef Macarena de Castro offers local Mallorcan cuisine from her own gardens with a dining room, terrace and bar.

Aromata

Owned and run by Michelin-star chef Andreu Genestra. Traditional island ingredients served in a 17th-century courtyard in Palma. Fine-dining set lunches and an à la carte evening menu.

Ses Oliveres

Second-generation traditional family restaurant overlooking the harbour of Port de Sóller, specialising in seafood and local wines (ask for Bruno).

Restaurante Miceli

Found in the pretty town of Selva. Enjoy splendid views from the terrace of this 19th-century Mallorcan house where chef Marga Coll was born and raised.

La Fonda

Soak up the local atmosphere by going for an evening stroll and enjoying delicious traditional tapas and excellent local wines at La Fonda.

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Getting there

There are frequent flights from various destinations in Europe to Palma de Mallorca. A rented car is best for visiting the vineyards, but there are regular buses or trains from Palma to many inland destinations.

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More travel inspiration: 

Plan a Rioja cycling tour

Four great European wine weekends

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Online wine scams became a bigger threat as cyber criminals sought to take advantage of more people and businesses organising virtual drinks and ordering bottles on the internet in the wake of Covid-19 restrictions, suggests the report. 

So-called ‘phishing emails’ were a particular concern, according to findings published in April by US-based group Recorded Future in partnership with Area 1 Security.  

From January 2020 onwards, the authors found a significant rise in legitimate wine-themed web domain registrations using terms like Merlot, Pinot, Chardonnay or Vino.

Monthly registrations began rising in February and peaked in May 2020, hitting 12,400 per month. 

They then hovered at around 7,000 to 9,500 per month up to March 2021, which is two to three times above pre-pandemic levels, according to the report’s data.

But the authors also found a sharp increase in wine-themed domain names that were deemed ‘malicious’, especially from around April 2020 onwards.

‘It appears that it took some time for cyber criminals to catch on to the idea of using wine in malicious activities,’ the authors said. 

‘Tracking malicious wine-themed domains as a percentage of total wine domains registered shows that the peak as a percentage of total wine-themed domains was in June 2020 at 7%.’

Since then, that figure has been around 3% to 5%. While that’s relatively low compared to some other sectors, the authors said their data shows that growing interest in wine online has not escaped the notice of scammers.   

‘The majority of activity we saw over the last year revolved around spam campaigns,’ Allan Liska, security architect at Recorded Future, told Decanter. 

‘They appear primarily designed to get victims to click on websites for ad revenue purposes or to buy questionable wine-related products. 

‘There also seems to be an interest in harvesting email addresses and other personal information. This data is collected and often sold on underground forums (often referred to as the Dark Web).’ 

He added that some scammers were targeting company employees.

‘The most serious threat, which accounted for about 13.5% of the email campaigns observed, is Business Email Compromise. These are emails that are designed to trick victims into wiring funds to the attacker under the guise of a business purpose. 

‘These could be as simple as, “You need to pay this invoice for the wine your boss ordered”, to more complex attacks that purport to come from the CEO or other senior management.’

While the report mostly looked at threats to companies, Liska said that individual wine lovers were also at-risk. Plus, ‘most individual wine lovers don’t have the professional email filters that organisations often do’.

His advice was to check domain names, email addresses and content carefully.

‘Scammers have gotten more sophisticated over the years, so what we recommend is take a breath before clicking on any link. If an offer seems too good to be true it most likely is.

‘If you get an email that you are suspicious of, ensure that the domain is one that you recognise.’

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See also: 

US deports convicted wine fraudster Rudy Kurniawan

New fingerprint method may help detect wine fraud

Arguably tequila’s prevailing image since the latter half of the 20th century has been that of a good-time, slam-it-and-grimace spirit. This perception couldn’t be further from the truth, however, with many top producers taking great pride in the premium añejo, reposado and blanco tequilas running off their stills.

True: there is still a lot of tequila in the market that’s made by industrialised production processes, resulting in cheap, often unpalatable products, that are best slammed. But there is a whole raft of brands out there making nuanced, artisanal spirits that deserve our time and attention.

From carefully infused spirits to liquids made by families that have passed production techniques down the generations, there is plenty to tantalise the palate of any tequila connoisseur. So if you’re celebrating Cinco de Mayo, try one of these well-priced bottles below and celebrate in style…

How to taste tequila

by Julie Sheppard

Regular readers of Decanter will be familiar with tasting techniques for appreciating wines, but there are some key differences when it comes to spirits.

Sample your tequila at room temperature, as chilling dulls the aromas. Choose a stemmed ISO or tulip glass for tasting, rather than a spirits tumbler or shot glass.

Smell the tequila, but avoid inhaling deeply – the higher alcohol content will burn your nostrils. Instead hold the glass slightly away from your nose and inhale gently.

Sip only a small amount at first, then spit, to prep your palate. Take a bigger second sip and swirl it round your mouth. You can even add a few drops of water (especially to high strength tequilas) to open up more flavours and aromas.

Best tequila under £50 / $50 for Cinco de Mayo

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Arette Añejo

The Arette distillery is based in the heart of Tequila town in the valley of Jaslisco, a region that is believed to produce more earthy spirits. Arette’s portfolio of tequilas certainly fits this preconception, however the wood influence on its añejo ensures it walks an elegant line between sweet and savoury. Toffee, cinnamon, date sponge and ginger mingle with cracked black pepper, bouquet garni, tobacco tin and dried chilli flakes. Alc 40%

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Curado Cupreata

A collaboration between three families, Curado takes a blanco tequila and infuses it with cooked agave to amp up the flavours of the plant. There are three products in the range, and this one uses Cupreata agave from Michoacan. It’s a dichotomy of dry saltiness and residual sweetness, boasting notes of Naval oranges, agave syrup, vanilla, cocoa and macadamia nuts. Alc 40%

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Don Fulano Blanco 100 Proof

Served in a tall bottle with a heavy glass stopper, Don Fulano’s distinctive product design hints at the quality of the liquid that lies within. The light, grassy nose is reminiscent of walking through sand dunes clutching a 99 ice cream, while the palate is one of a lean, green oily machine, a peppery agave monster that packs a punch before giving way to a beguiling florality. Alc 50%

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Don Julio Reposado

Already the main breadwinner for the family after losing his father two years previously, Don Julio González founded his eponymous distillery at the tender age of 17. The brand’s reposado is aged for eight months in American white oak barrels, creating a creamy tequila boasting flavours of vanilla, toffee, coconut, lemon and apple with a dusting of cocoa. Alc 40%

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El Tequileño Añejo

Brand founder Don Jorge Salles Cuervo (surname sound familiar?) named his company in honour of the residents of Tequila. A juicy, beguiling nose of cassis, toffee, chopped hazelnuts and orange leads onto a palate of butterscotch spicy white pepper, freshly mown grass, blackcurrants and sticky toffee pudding. Given that it’s an añejo, this tequila wears its wood influence lightly. Alc 40%

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Olmeca Altos Añejo

Amazing value for money, this is a dark dessert of an añejo from Olmeca’s Master Distiller Jesús Hernández. Aged for 18 months in ex-bourbon barrels, it boasts bags of cocoa powder and cocoa nibs, chocolate mousse, canelés, vanilla cheesecake, candied orange and menthol, with a touch of Brazil nut bitterness. Alc 40%

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Patrón Añejo

If Olmeca Altos (above) is the dark side of añejo tequila, Patrón is the light side. Bright sweetness with a distinct level of acidity, a nose of fresh banana, cashew nuts, white chocolate and tonka bean gives way to a palate of butterscotch, dates, orange oils, honeydew melon and a smattering of white pepper. Alc 40%

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Vivir Blanco

A new British-owned tequila brand, Vivir’s founders work with the Casa Maestri distillery in Jalisco. The owners of the distillery are involved in conservation efforts of local insect and bat populations through the management of their agave crops. A silky-smooth tequila, the agave flavour sneaks up then hits like an iron fist in a velvet glove, accompanied with notes of mint, angel cake, liquorice and shiso leaves. Alc 40%

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