It’s only an hour’s drive from Avignon, but the further you wade into Costières de Nîmes, the more you feel the difference. Giant saw-toothed pampas grass guard the roadsides like policemen built from blue-green armoured plates. While white horses scatter as you pass. This is no longer Provence; this is the Camargue, the Rhône’s sprawling delta as it feeds into the Mediterranean. And just as it has its own landscape and culture, you hear a different accent in the wines; still typical of the region, but with a fresh, estuarine tang.

Ripples through the centuries

The appellation was granted in 1986, but this area has been renowned for its wines for centuries. The Greeks started developing vineyards here in the 5th century B.C., and the Romans built on their work. Wine amphorae produced in the area have been found as far afield as Italy, which proves that these wines weren’t just for local consumption – they were valuable enough to export. In the Middle Ages, as is so often the case in France, the monks picked up the baton; first the Benedictines, then the Cistercians. Later on, several abbeys would supply their wines to the Avignon popes.

By the 17th century, the wine industry was booming; the Canal du Midi and the railways helped to ferry the wines to new markets. The vineyard area spread to over twice what it is today. But after phylloxera struck, it took time for the region to bounce back.

The renaissance started in the 1950s with the work of Philippe Lamour, who helped spearhead a new project of canals and waterways that channelled water from the Rhône to feed plantations of fruit trees and new vineyards. The fields are often greener here than further north, you sense the moisture in the air.

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Costières de Nîmes in brief

• Location: Rhône Valley vineyards appellation 35km southwest of Avignon
• AOC created: 1986
• Production: All three colours: red, rosé and white
• Principal grape varieties for reds and rosés: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre Principal grape varieties for whites: Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne
• Colours made in 2020: 43% red, 48% rosé, 9% white
• Climate: Mediterranean, sunny with cooling sea breezes and mistral (north wind)
• Prevailing soil type: large pebbles over red clay
• Total surface area producing Costières de Nîmes in 2020: 2,837 hectares
• Annual production in 2020: 153,000 hectolitres
• Average yield in 2020: 53hl/ha Private estates: 71
• Co-operative wineries: 9

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Maritime influence

Costières de Nîmes certainly has its own distinctive character, but you need only to look down to your feet to see its umbilical link to the Rhône river. Rounded galets roulés over clay limestone stretch for as far as the eye can see. The word costière refers to this undulating raised bank of pebbles in fact. These are the same Villafranchian deposits found in Lirac and Châteauneuf, carried by the Rhône and Durance rivers from the Alps.

It’s a substantial appellation covering 24 villages, and there are two distinct styles of wine; the north and south. Both areas take their names from established abbeys, the north being Saint-Roman, a Benedictine abbey dating back to the seventh century and the south, Franquevaux, a cistercian abbey dating back to the 13th century.

Saint-Roman is largely flat and sits at around 60m above sea level. There’s a little more limestone and loess in the soils here, and the dominant wind is the boisterous northerly mistral. Reds wines are concentrated and spicy. The southern part is called Franquevaux, which gently slopes down to the sea. The pebbles here are a little smaller, and the prevailing wind is the dewy marin, a south wind that rolls in over the Mediterranean sea. These reds are soft, elegant and juicy.

For now at least, these two areas aren’t officially recognised as geographical subdivisions on labels, but it’s likely that they will be at some stage in the future.

These are the southernmost vineyards of the Rhône Valley, but paradoxically they are also some of the coolest. This is easily explained. When the summer sun gradually heats up this enormous bank of pebbles during the day, it causes hot air to rise. This sucks in cool sea air, which drops afternoon temperatures by 3 to 4°C. The proximity to the sea also makes for cooler nights, which helps to retain fresh aromatics in the wines.

Since the early 2000s, the appellation has adopted a number of programmes to promote sustainable and organic farming, and now a remarkable 25% of the vineyard area is certified organic – well above the regional average.

Three colours – and a secret speciality

Grenache is widely planted here, but the dominant red grape is Syrah, which is well-suited to the cooler climate. It brings a certain straightness, structure and subtle spice to the wines. Mourvèdre is also popular; its synonym ‘Plant de Saint-Gilles’ refers to the village of Saint-Gilles in the southern part of the appellation next to wide coastal ponds near the sea. It offers depth, structure and ageability to the blend. As does Carignan; Cinsault and Marselan add a little freshness and lift.

The Rhône Valley vineyards are often associated with, full-bodied, fireside red wines but red Costières de Nîmes tend to be a little less bulky, their fruits not quite as dark as some. Red berries and plums are more common, as are fresh herbs like sage and rosemary, and even a little seaweed.


Reds make up almost half of all wines made here, but rosé isn’t far behind, with 48% of production. They use the same grapes as the reds and are typically pale in colour, with raspberry and strawberry fruits, made in an aperitif style – lighter than some of the region’s rosés.

White wines may only make up 9% of the total, but the potential for quality is impressive. Like the reds and rosés, they’re always made of a blend of at least two varieties, and one of those has to be Grenache Blanc, Marsanne or Roussanne. Other possibilities are Bourboulenc, Clairette, Macabeu, Vermentino and Viognier. Depending on the blend and winemaking techniques, styles vary from the brisk and bright through to rich, oak aged examples. But even the boldest are more discreet than an average white from the region, with a distinctive sea-spray saltiness on the finish.

Hidden within Costières de Nîmes, there is another white wine waiting to be discovered. If the winemakers of the little village of Bellegarde make wines from pure Clairette, they can apply to bottle them under a different appellation – AOC Clairette de Bellegarde. At just 7 hectares it’s one of the tiniest appellations of the Rhône Valley vineyards, but it makes a captivating and remarkably long-lived dry and still white from this emblematic regional white variety.

Costières de Nîmes shares the same long history of winemaking with the rest of the Rhône Valley, but increasingly it leads the way in terms of sustainability and organic viticulture. It may share the galets roulés of its more famous northern neighbours but this is a wine with a very particular inflection, one that speaks with a unique maritime twang. A style that grows more and more alluring with every wine you try.

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12 Costières de Nîmes recommendations

Château Mourgues du Grès, Capitelles blanc, Beaucaire 2018 91 points

£20 Caves de Pyrènes

Grenache blanc 75%, Roussanne 15%, Viognier 5%. Fermented then matured in demi-muids for 12 months. Some depth of straw colour to the wine with a subtle flintiness to the aromas, very fresh. Medium-bodied, rounded but not heavy, lively, remarkably detailed and mineral – this has a long finish and really buzzes with life. Not overtly aromatic, just a touch of satsuma, but this has great intensity and impact, an electric white wine. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 14%

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Château Vessière, Château Vessière, Saint Gilles 2019 90 points

£13 Alliance Wine

Roussanne 70%, Grenache blanc 30%. A very attractive, lifted, perfumed style. Light- to medium-bodied, this is a fresh, precise and drinkable aperitif style with lime pastille and mojito-like aromatics and sea spray on the tapered finish. Well balanced and would make a good pairing with goat’s cheese, Asian salads. Drink 2021-2022 Alc 12.5%

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Château de Valcombe, Pastel, Generac 2020 91 points

£14 York Wines, Red Nose Wines, Inverarity Morton

Syrah 95%, Viognier 5%. An estate with roots that date back to 1740, this is an elegant pale pink rosé with a cherry red tint. Very attractive aromatic display, smells like fine, washed fabrics, it is silky on the palate too, with redcurrant acidity and a tapered finish, finishing fresh and gently mineral. A very graceful wine, beautifully packaged. Drink 2021-2021 Alc 12%

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Château Beaubois, Elégance, Franquevaux 2020 90 points

£15 Champagne Warehouse Ltd

Syrah 60%, Cinsault 20%, Grenache noir 20%. A touch of peach to the pale pink colour. Honeydew melon aromas, a touch of spiciness, gently piquant. Rounded on the palate but not fat, this still has a good sense of freshness, it is soft but well-balanced. This is a graceful and satisfying wine, not a simple rosé. Would work with fairly sophisticated starters, lighter dishes and charcuterie. Drink 2021-2022 Alc 13%

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Château L’Ermite d’Auzan, Auzan, Saint Gilles 2020 89 points

£12 Boutinot Ltd

Cinsault 50%, Grenache noir 50%. Pale salmon pink. This is fresh and lively with some raspberry and redcurrant to the aromas, Dry and light bodied, with a bright acid beam, this has a good sense of energy and drinkability. Would work well as an aperitif, with green salads, and would be particularly delicious with a seafood platter and freshly made mayonnaise. Drink 2021-2022 Alc 12.5%

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Domaine Gassier, Nostre Païs, Caissargues 2018 92 points

£15 Waud Wine Club

Grenache noir 55%, Syrah 25%, Mourvèdre 10%, Carignan 5%, Cinsault 5%. Old vines, 1/3 vinified with whole bunches, bottled unfiltered. This has beautifully fresh and defined berry fruits on the nose followed on the palate by flowing, rich forest berries, a touch of liquorice and Provençal herbs in the background. Very fresh and juicy really upright and so drinkable, with real intensity and personality. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 15%

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Château d’Or et de Gueules, La Bolida, Saint Gilles 2017 92 points

£25 The Real Wine Company

Old Mourvèdre 90%, old Grenache 10%. Aged in French oak barrels for 18 months. What a nose! Pure Mourvèdre, all liquorice, violets and fresh soil. This is lifted and floral, juicy and medium-bodied, but very fluid on the palate, with good supporting acidity. The 2017 is just becoming ready to drink now, and taking on some gently leathery aromas to the fruit. Plenty of grip, remarkable acidity and compelling perfume. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 14.5%

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Château de Montfrin, “à mon seul désir”, Montfrin 2018 91 points

£18 Jeroboams

Syrah 50%, Grenache noir 30%, Mourvèdre 20%. From the imposing château and estate owned by actor and film producer Jean-René de Fleurieu. This has a sage, seaweed and plum nose, very classic Costières de Nîmes aromatics, alongside a touch of cocoa. Full-bodied, flowing and richly warming with gentle tannins and a little touch of saltiness on the finish. Ripe and enveloping, very authentic. Drink 2021-2021 Alc 14%

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Château Bellefontaine, Les Fables de Bellefontaine, Beauvoisin 2017 90 points

£20 Department 33 Wines

Syrah 60%, Grenache 40%. Bright, spicy and floral, with aromatic but firmly fruity Syrah notes at the fore. Fresh, not overly heavy or extracted with lovely acidity. This is really upright and focussed with concentrated blackberry and a touch of blackcurrant on the finish – so vibrant and bright. A light touch in the cellar helps to accentuate the freshness. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 14%

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M. Chapoutier, Costières de Nîmes Collection Bio, Tain L’Hermitage 2018 89 points

£10-£13 Hatch Mansfield

Grenache noir, Marselan, Mourvèdre, Syrah. Very classic Costières de Nîmes aromatic display, with fresh berry fruits and a handful of freshly-picked Provençal herbs. Light-bodied, fresh and lively on the palate with subtle tannins, balanced acidity and a good grip on the finish. A very harmonious, drinkable style that would be delicious by itself or with lighter dishes. Drink 2021 Alc 13.5%

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Domaine Galus, G., Meynes 2018 89 points

£15 Wine Society

Syrah, Grenache, Carignan. A lovely sense of finesse to the aromas and the palate here. This is fresh, well balanced, fulsome and generous with very fine tannins and a good sense of purity. A beautifully packaged, ripe, ample and charming style of Costières de Nîmes that would work well with a roast shoulder of lamb. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 14%

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Mas des Bressades, Cuvée Excellence, Manduel 2018 89 points

£11 Thomas Peatling Fine Wines

Syrah 98%, Grenache noir 2%. Deep, brooding aromatics, with a touch of smoky bacon – this is a full-bodied and powerful style. It has an intense, shining acidity underneath plenty of very ripe berry and plum fruits and ample muscular tannins. This would team well with roast beef now, or even better, tuck it away for a few years to see it build further complexity. Drink 2023-2026 Alc 14.5%

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Primarily grown in Tokaj, Furmint is the key grape variety for deliciously sweet Tokaji, but as Caroline Gilby MW – joint DWWA Regional Chair with Beth Willard for North, Central and Eastern Europe – states, ‘over recent years (Furmint) has quietly been building a reputation as a variety to watch: with multiple claims for joining the ranks of great white grapes.

‘Incredibly versatile, it has some similarities to Riesling – able to go from bone dry, crisp and vibrant all the way to intensely sweet, though always with its hallmark steely acidity.’

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Read more – Furmint: A versatile variety to watch

Scroll down to see award-winning Furmint wines and tasting notes 

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Genetically related to both Riesling and Chardonnay, Furmint too shares some similarities with Chardonnay. It takes well to oak for more complex, textured examples and is capable of producing quality sparkling wines.

Tasted and rated by Regional Chairs Caroline Gilby MW and Beth Willard alongside a panel of regional specialist judges at DWWA 2020, the below wines represent the competition’s top-scoring sparkling and dry Furmint and Furmint-dominant blends, all 90+ points…

Search Hungary’s impressive results for sweet Furmint wines – including one Best in Show and five Platinum medals – from DWWA 2020 here.

Furmint February: 12 award-winning wines to try

Sparkling

Kreinbacher, Classic Brut NV

Silver, 93 points

Very classy, elegant notes of green apples, grapefruit, lemon rind and pears. Crunchy on the palate with biscuit notes.

Sauska, Brut, Tokaj NV

Silver, 90 points

Earthy nose with notes of pears, acacia, buttered toast and grapefruit. Focused on the palate, with precision, appetising and long.

Dry Furmint

Juliet Victor, Bomboly Dry Furmint, Tokaj 2017

Gold, 96 points

Very expressive nose with intense citrus and slightly smoky aromas, framed by orange spice notes. Lively zesty acidity in harmony with a lovely fruit concentration.

Harsányi, Kútpatka Furmint, Tokaj 2017 

Gold, 95 points (medium dry)

Perfectly poised nose of peach and green apple with a touch of mango and underlying smokey notes. Lovely acidity with weighty fruit and longevity.

Mad Wine, Dry Furmint, Tokaj 2015

Silver, 93 points

Slight smokiness on nose with a touch of minerality and exotic fruit. Vibrant palate with some volume, rounded and textured.

Royal Tokaji, Dry Furmint, Tokaj 2018

Silver, 93 points

Lively nose of peaches, zesty lemon and orange spice. Bright with a clear tension on the palate, well-concentrated fruit.

Juliet Victor, Dry Estate Furmint, Tokaj 2017

Silver, 92 points

Smoky nose with a touch of exotic spices and peachy aromas. Really full bodied, powerful and generous, age worthy.

Patricius, Selection Furmint, Tokaj 2018

Silver, 91 points

Intense peachy character framed by complex mineral undertones. Very refreshing on the palate with a vibrant acidity and long finish.

Sauska, Furmint, Tokaj 2019

Silver, 91 points

Interesting nose of citrus and stone fruits with a tropical touch. Very fresh and saline, sharp and precise palate.

Sauska, Furmint Birsalmás, Tokaj 2017

Silver, 91 points

Complex nose with layers of minerality, citrus fruits and green apple aromas. Very focused on the palate, lingering finish.

Dobogó, Úrágya Furmint, Tokaj 2018

Silver, 90 points

Zesty nose of lemon juice and green apple with hints of bready notes. Generous and full bodied palate.

Holdvölgy, Vision Tokaj 2013

Silver, 90 points

Interesting nose of wood smoke, lemon, pineapple, pear and caramel. Layers of complexity on the palate with well integrated oak.

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Search all DWWA 2020 award-winning wines from Hungary

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Crémant sparkling wines

French crémants are always a good starting point when looking for the best sparkling wine for value options, and many can offer a convincing alternative to Champagne.

Our list below includes a ‘crowd pleasing and great value’ Crémant de Loire Blanc de Blancs, for £17.99 at Majestic (down to £14.99 when you mix six), made from 100% Chardonnay, and ‘a great alternative to an entry-level Champagne’ from a Crémant du Jura for £15.50 from the Wine Society.

Crémant de Limoux, from the Langeudoc in southern France, produces some good options below, including the Cuvée Royale Brut Crémant de Limoux NV from Waitrose which is ‘a great, affordable Champagne alternative’ – or the Tesco Finest Rosé option, which has ‘added complexity from extended lees ageing.’ Both are around £12.

The two Crémant de Bordeaux sparkling wines on the list offer incredible value, with a great aperitif option from Tesco for £10, and a £9 bottle from Marks & Spencer with ‘bright, breezy palate that shows more juicy apple, a bite of redcurrant acidity and creamy yeasty notes.’ Marks & Spencer also have a Crémant de Bourgogne for £10.

It’s not easy to find a Champagne at the £20 price point, but Lidl’s Comte de Senneval, Champagne 2014 manages it, a wine ‘all about crisp red apple and red berry fruit – vibrant, youthful and fresh.’

For other traditional-method sparkling wines that offer great value, it’s worth looking to Cava – the Juvé y Camps Reserva Familia NV listed below has ‘bready, citrus aromas with hints of honeyed peach and white blossom’ and is £14.99.

Prosecco

Looking beyond France, Italy is home to many great sparkling wines – the most famous being Prosecco. As it’s popularity grew, there are many wines out there that do a disservice to the name, but our team have picked the ones to look for, including the Morrisons £7 option, ‘refreshing green apple, white blossom and lemon on the nose, crisp and frothy on the palate’. Or if you’re looking to spend more – but still below £20 – The Emissory, Prosecco, Asolo Superiore has ‘appley and ever so slightly nutty and creamy aromas followed by a rich vein of pear, apple and soft stone fruit flavours.’

The new category of Prosecco rosé DOC has also been approved recently and the first bottles hit the shelves in recent months. This category is one that Decanter’s Amy Wislocki recently called a ‘great success…Prosecco and rosé wine have been such a hit, separately, with consumers.’

Amy has tasted a range of the first bottles on offer in the UK, including the Ruggeri, Rosé Brut – ‘a restrained Prosecco rosé, and quite textured compared to most’ – and the Harvey Nichols Prosecco Rosé, which has ‘lively red berry and redcurrant, citrus and some cherry flavours, fragrant and juicy’.

You could always transport yourself to the Italian gastronomy heartland of Emilia-Romagna with a bottle of Lambrusco, such as Monte delle Vigne Lambrusco 2018, ‘a fine example made from 100% Lambrusco Maestri’ and great for pairing with food.

English sparkling wine

For fans of English sparkling wine, it can be harder to find examples around this price point – but Tesco’s Finest English Sparkling features ‘A pretty coral colour, the flavours are of mellow red berries and a hint of brioche’, and comes in at exactly £20.

For something a bit more off-beat, there’s the ‘Pét Not’ from London urban winery Vagabond, for £15.95. A ‘non-disgorged, traditional-fermented sparkling’, hence its name of “Pét-Not”… Fast, furious bubbles, quite yeasty and fresh, with a dry, crisp character.’

New world sparkling wine

Cool-climate New World wines are also ones to explore, as highlighted by Dirceu Vianna Junior MW who picked a selection of New World sparkling wines under £20, where often your money can go that bit further.

There’s an ‘extraordinary example of blanc de blancs, made with 100% Chardonnay that was hand-selected’ from Cape Beck for £16.99, or at a similar price point a ‘harmonious, complex and beautifully made’ sparkling wine from Wairau Valley, Marlborough.

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Best sparkling wine for under £20

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Tasting Jay Z’s Champagne

Jay Z increased his ownership stake in Armand de Brignac Champagne, nicknamed ‘Ace of Spades’, in 2014 after buying out Sovereign Brands.

In February 2021, he sold a 50% stake to Moët Hennessy, the wine and spirits arm of LVMH. 

Hip-hop fans might have glimpsed the brand’s ostentatious, gold bottle making a cameo appearance in Jay Z’s 2006 video for ‘Show Me What You Got’.

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Scroll down to see the tasting notes & scores

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Ace of Spades has a reputation as a party Champagne and is believed to be the only one available in a 30-litre ‘Midas’ bottle.

Russian footballers from Euro 2016 found this out to their cost over the summer after being fined for attending a beach party where trays of the Champagne were being served to guests with sparklers, to the tune of the Russian national anthem.

But behind the high roller image, how good is the wine?

It is, after all, made by the Cattier family, which founded its Champagne house in 1763, before the French Revolution.

‘If you put aside the bling bling packaging and the high price tags, the content of the bottles is actually quite impressive,’ said Decanter’s former tasting director, Christelle Guibert, after sampling the range in 2016.

‘With the 100% Pinot Noir ‘Blanc de Noirs’ going for £695, Armand de Brignac is one of the most expensive Champagne on the market. Yes, it is very expensive but so is some of the other luxury Champagne, so we are not here to discuss value.’

Blanc de Noirs Assamblage A3

The Blanc de Noirs Assamblage Three (A3) was launched in the UK in September 2019.

Only 3,535 bottles of Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs A3 were made. It was disgorged on April 9 2019, and it is made from the 2009, 2010 and 2012 vintages.

‘The Blanc de Noirs A3 is an extraordinarily gourmet wine with richness, intensity and length but it is not too heavy, as some can be,’ said Chef de Cave Jean-Jacque Cattier.

A highly-limited number of bottles of Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage Three will be launched in the UK exclusively at Harrods.

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Ace of Spades range: Latest tasted by Decanter experts

Updated in September 2019 with the release and tasting of Blanc de Noirs Assamlage A3. Updated February 2021 with details of selling to Moët Hennessy. 

More about Armand de Brignac Champagne:

Copy below by Christelle Guibert. Edited by Chris Mercer.

It is believed Cattier still owns part of the Armand de Brignac brand alongside Jay-Z, but specific details have not been disclosed.

Cattier, which has a long history of producing Champagne for others under licence, makes around 100,000 bottles of Armand de Brignac each year, representing only a small proportion of the family’s total annual sales of 1 million bottles.

The family owns 33 hectares of vineyards and the split between grapes bought or owned is approximately 50%.

Emilien Boutillat, the winemaker, is one of the 14 people working on the Armand de Brignac brand.

He told Decanter.com that only the first portion of the press is used to ensure pristine juice, fresh flavours and the highest acidity possible.

The wines spend at least three years on lees and three to six months in bottle after disgorgement. Each one of the 100,000 bottles is dressed with a metal coating made of aluminium and finished by hand; polished and fitted with four pewter labels.

The range is available from 75cl bottle to 30-litre Midas, and is believed to be the only Champagne to be available in a 30-litre bottle.

The Prosecco appellation is being revolutionised from the inside out, projecting it towards a series of major innovations. In May 2020, a proposal was approved to change the denomination rules for Prosecco DOC, laying the foundations for the creation of Prosecco Rosé. Specifically, alongside Glera grapes used either alone or blended with other permitted varieties (Bianchetta Trevigiana, Chardonnay, Perera, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Verdiso and Pinot Nero fermented off the skins), the rosé can contain up to 15% of Pinot Nero fermented on the skins. What’s more, it will only be produced as a single vintage, containing a minimum of 85% vintage grapes, and can be made in a drier style such as brut nature or extra brut.

The first Prosecco rosés have already found made their way on to the shelves, so look out for them. But don’t expect to see rosé Prosecco at the DOCG level – this is a new development at DOC level only.

On the dry side

In another innovation, for Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG, changes to the regulations in 2019 now allow for a new style of extra brut – a classic example is Quindici16, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Extra Brut from Spagnol – as well as a category re-fermented in the bottle, known as sui lieviti.

More broadly speaking, other changes across the region tend to focus on the brut nature style: one of the first producers to spot its potential was Valdo, where the style was introduced to the estate’s Rive San Pietro di Barbozza three years ago. The result demonstrated its potential to improve over time, gaining complexity on the nose and palate, much to the delight of connoisseurs.

In the same vein, Merotto’s very recent Integral, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore 2019 is produced with residual sugar of less than 3g/L. It has been designed to heighten the characteristics of the vintage and the minerality of the terroir, comprising the deep-rooted historic vineyards at Col San Martino. Similarly, Bortolomiol opted for zero residual sugar for its new offering, Rive di Santo Stefano 70th Anniversary; it displays a dynamic, clean, vertical progression on the palate.

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Why does my ‘extra dry’ Prosecco taste sweet? Ask Decanter

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In-bottle ageing

Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG’s gradual shift towards the traditional method (and away from the Charmat method, or fermentation in tank) is nothing new. What is new is the tendency to increase the months the wine spends on lees. One such example is Valdo: after its recent Numero 10 Metodo Classico, Conegliano Valdobbiadene, aged for 10 months on the lees (following previous experiments with 36 and 48 months), it continues the trend with its new metodo classico, Pradase. Named after the Valdobbiadene vineyard with its old vines of Glera and other local grape varieties, it spends 24 months on the lees.

Terroir focus

There is increasing interest in the Valdobbiadene terroir and landscape, awarded Unesco World Heritage status in 2019. Indeed, recently 19 sub-zones of Conegliano Valdobbiadene DOCG were identified. Analysis revealed distinctive features for every sub-zone, paving the way for development in terroir zoning.

The Prosecco DOC consorzio is also committed to biodiversity; it recently signed up to the Equalitas standard, aimed at ensuring environmental, economic and social sustainability.

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Prosecco Superiore: Sparkling pioneers plus the 12 wines to seek out

Traditional method Italian sparkling: panel tasting results

Hundreds of new whiskies are launched every year – some from young distilleries, others from established names introducing new core bottlings or releasing limited edition products.

Keeping up with this perpetual conveyor belt is even harder when you factor in all the countries now making their own whiskies and giving the old guard something to think about. Name a country – Australia? India? Denmark? South Africa? – and you can pretty much guarantee that it’s making some decent drams these days.

This is good news for the curious whisky drinker. What’s even better news is the impact this has on the established names of the whisky world. There’s no room for complacency, and the best distillers are as keen to learn from industry newcomers as they are from their ancestors. Here are eight excellent whiskies costing less than £100 – all launched in the past few years…

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AnCnoc Peatheart Batch 2

AnCnoc is the single malt Scotch made at Knockdhu distillery near Keith – so named to avoid confusion with Knockando. Here its zippy lime and greengage fruit is shown in smoky guise, resulting in a dram that’s more about intrigue than complexity. Barbecued kiwi fruit, spearmint and a slightly bitter finish. One to mix with. Alc 46%

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Berry Bros & Rudd The Perspective Series 21 Year Old

The result of a partnership between Berry Bros spirits buyer Doug McIvor and landscape photographer Lindsay Robertson, this blended Scotch is as well-composed as the latter’s dramatic images. There’s plenty of fleshy red fruit alongside light spices and honey, with a tangy, nutty quality that keeps you coming back for one more glass. Alc 43%

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Blue Spot 7 Year Old Cask Strength

Reuniting the old ‘spot’ family of pot still whiskeys sold by Dublin merchant Mitchell & Son (following Green, Red and Yellow), this is bottled at cask strength – and it shows in the punchy combination of highly perfumed floral aromas, ultra-ripe orchard fruits and tangy pot still spices. Structured but smooth, with scents of golden syrup, fudge and light honey. Alc 58.7%

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Dalmore 12 Year Old Sherry Cask Select

A new Dalmore, and a (relatively) restrained Dalmore, matured in ex-bourbon casks and finished in sherry. There’s roast hazelnut, dark honey and a resinous scent of old polished furniture. Sleek and sumptuous, in time more classical Dalmore flavours of cassis and black cherries dipped in dark chocolate emerge – with the finish lifted by notes of Bendicks Bittermint. Alc 43%

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Heaven’s Door Tennessee Bourbon

Developed in association with Bob Dylan, this Tennessee bourbon is part of a small but excellent range. A mashbill of 30% ‘small grains’ (rye, wheat and/or barley) and at least six years’ oak ageing yield a classic bourbon with vanilla and sweetcorn, coupled with red fruit, coffee roaster and a pleasant if drying nutty note. Alc 42%

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John Walker & Sons Celebratory Blend

Johnnie Walker celebrated ‘his’ 200th birthday in 2020 (look out for a film and a splendid book on the subject) and this is one of the new releases marking the occasion. A worthy tribute to 19th-century blending pioneers, it offers a kaleidoscope of fruit, gentle smoke, baking spices and chocolate ganache – all underpinned by the seamless sweetness of well-chosen grain whiskies. Alc 51%

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Kilchoman Machir Bay Cask Strength Festive Edition

A fully loaded version of Kilchoman’s popular Machir Bay expression, this Scotch needs a bit of coaxing out of its shell, with that extra strength making for a brooding nose with a whiff of first aid kit about it. Time and water brings out a beguiling maritime smokiness, with some mouthfilling fruit. Worth the wait. Alc 58.6%

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Wolfburn Small Batch Release No 204

Almost eight years after opening in Scotland’s far north, this Thurso distillery is building a reputation for a series of promising small-batch bottlings, including this. Five years in ex-Bourbon and six months in ex-Madeira creates a crowd-pleasing mix of sweet apple, orange zest and light brown sugar, with darker hints of fig and treacle in the background. Alc 46%

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The catch-all wine appreciation day, Global Drink Wine Day is held annually on 18 February.

Familiar favourites like New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, red Burgundy or Argentinean Malbec might come to mind as your celebratory wine of choice – and there are many top examples to choose from when searching DWWA 2020 results – but for those looking to discover something new, we have put together a list of some of the competition’s top-scoring wines from perhaps less familiar regions and grape varieties.

Tasted and rated by our expert judges at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2020 last August, here you can explore a selection of 95+ point sparkling, white, red and sweet wines worth seeking out…

Sparkling

Caves Transmontanas, Vértice Bruto, Douro, Portugal 2012

Platinum, 97 points

40% Gouveio, 30% Viosinho, 30% Rabigato

Wonderful toasty brioche, apricot and citrus underpinned by a chalky, limey core; rich and elegant with a sublime, almost creamy acidity, a smooth, velvety mousse, and a stunning, long, melt-in-the-mouth finish with soft herbal influences.

Dveri-Pax, DP Šipon Brut, Štajerska Slovenija, Podravje, Slovenia 2016

Gold, 96 points

100% Furmint

Expressive Furmint nose with salinity, minerality, quince and baked apples. Delicious with an impressive mousse, tons of fresh apple juice and lemon flavours and lovely energy and lift.

Štampar, Urban White Extra Brut, Zagorje – Međimurje, Continental, Croatia NV

Gold, 95 points

100% Moslavac

Serious nose with tons of complex lemon, acacia and honey. Quince, lemon and creamy hints on the palate with lovely depth, length and harmonious acidity.

White

Cantina Valle Isarco, Aristos Kerner, Alto Adige Valle Isarco, Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol, Italy 2018

Best in Show, 97 points

100% Kerner

Kerner is a crossing of Riesling with Schiava Grossa – which makes it all the more appropriate that the Kerner we picked out for our Best In Show selection this year comes from Alto Adige, the birthplace and home of the Schiava family. Fans of Kerner always adore its aromas, and they are rarely realised with more fresh-grass zest and rose-petal precision than here. Sometimes the flavours can seem a little woolly after that come-hither charm, but not here: this wine flies straight and true as an arrow, all the way to a clean spice finish backed, nonetheless, by some supporting glycerous wealth. Remarkable work and a fine varietal benchmark.

Villa Baulieu, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, Provence, France 2016

Best in Show, 97 points

60% Rolle, 40% Sauvignon

Provence’s finest white wines are one of France’s wine secrets: little lauded, amidst all the attention given to rosé and prestige reds, but quietly compelling, as those who take the trouble to discover them will find, and more diverse than you would think, too. This point of difference in this outstanding example from Coteaux d’Aix en Provence is the Sauvignon Blanc component, freshening and lending a nut-leaf complexity to the richer, more succulent fruit from the Rolle (Vermentino), always at home around the Mediterranean rim. Look out, too, for the pithy, zesty finish with its attractive and cleansing note of soft bitterness.

Erdevik, Omnibus Lector Chardonnay, Fruška Gora, Srem, Serbia 2015

Platinum, 97 points


100% Chardonnay

A fantastic, multi-layered wine characterised by a real intense profile. On the nose there is a powerful expression of chalk and smoke, followed by green melon, peach and nectarine flavours. It’s well integrated and finishes lengthily. Really impressive.

Kozlović, Selekcija Malvazija, Hrvatska Istra, Coastal, Croatia 2017

Platinum, 97 points


100% Malvasia Istriana

Stunningly clean and impressive mineral and saline nose. The palate is crisp, bright and fresh, with some elegant grip. The finish is very persistent and delivers plenty of flavour, with prickly lime and herbal notes. Superb wine!

Teliani Valley, Glekhuri Kisi Qvevri, Kakheti, Georgia 2018

Platinum, 97 points


100% Kisi


Rather exotic smoked/dried mango aromatics. There’s some sweetness here to alleviate a little the purging bitterness that leaves the mouth clean, like marmalade made from grapefruit skins, leaving an almost Sichuan pepper numbness. Exhilarating, exceptional stuff!

Ščurek, Up Rebula, Goriška Brda, Primorska, Slovenia 2016

Platinum, 97 points

100% Rebula


Noticeable generosity on the nose, with oranges, pears, spices and some slightly floral notes. The palate is ripe, broad, generous and rounded with a lovely structure and plenty of apple and cinnamon spice characters. Really impressive!

Provins, Les Domaines Chapitre Heida, Valais, Switzerland 2018

Gold, 96 points

100% Païen

Beautiful nose of lifted floral Alpine flower, rose apple, lime leaf and tobacco, while the palate is laced with warm fruit and polished acidity.

Armenia Wine Factory, Tariri, Aragatsotn, Armenia 2017

Gold, 95 points

50% Kangun, 25% Chenin Blanc, 25% Aligoté

Youthful scents of nuts, lemons and hints of honeysuckle and beeswax. Fresh and zesty on the palate with a creamy and slightly nutty finish with lively, mouthwatering acidity.

Red

Secret Spot, Douro, Portugal 2016

Best in Show, 97 points

100% Field Blend

This dark, innately complex red wine is a testament to the astonishing potential of the Douro valley’s schist soils – and to the genetic old-vine patrimony which lies hidden there, deeply rooted and just waiting for sensitive vinification in order to find expression. That’s exactly what this wine has had. It’s not pretentiously oaky or shimmering with ambition; the fruited aromas, indeed, are almost gentle and discreet. The more you look, though, the more you will find. On the palate, too, the wine is relatively light-bodied and nimble on its feet, without a massive tannic presence. It’s that fruited complexity, once again, which hallmarks the wine’s quality, and which emerges with slow and meditative examination in the glass. This is a Douro classic of great purity and finesse.

Moretti Omero, Sagrantino di Montefalco, Umbria, Italy 2016

Best in Show, 97 points

100% Sagrantino

If you’ve never tried a Sagrantino di Montefalco, you’re in for a surprise – or a shock. This indigenous Umbrian speciality is hugely characterful, and perfectly illustrates Italy’s almost limitless capacity for wine intrigue. It’s a dark wine, and this oaked example smells brooding, almost smoky but complex, too: the smell of the hills in autumn. It’s deep and fiercely intense as well as amply tannic – but not harsh for all that, since the wild forest plum fruits are sweet and sumptuous, and those tannins bond happily both to the fruits as well as to the wine’s glycerol and oak chamfering. It is, in sum, a complete original – but our judges loved it, so there’s a good chance that readers might too.

Familia Torres, Grans Muralles, Conca de Barberà, Spain 2016

Best in Show, 97 points

33% Garnacha, 33% Cariñena, 33% Querol

Perhaps it’s the 33 per cent Querol component, but from the very first moment you approach this brooding, black-purple wine, something marks it out as exceptional and different from its regional peers. There’s drama in the aromas; the sweet black fruits also seem to smell of crushed stone and seed spice. Once in the mouth, the wine is close-knit, vital with inner gathered force. The fruits are more complex than the aromas had suggested once on the palate; they are gently acid-sustained, and those crushed-stone flavours are present on the tongue, too. This is an unusually complete and commanding Conca de Barberà with plenty of cellar years ahead of it.

Teliani Valley, Winery 97, Unfiltered Saperavi, Kakheti, Georgia 2019

Platinum, 97 points

100% Saperavi

This has very primary, spicy black cherry/mulberry aromatics. The palate has grainy tannins, nice freshness, subtle oak and juicy, very ripe fruit. Consider laying this youthful wine down as a test of fortitude and patience.

Jungić, Premium Cabernet Sauvignon, Bosnia – Herzegovina 2015

Gold, 95 points

100% Cabernet Sauvignon

Classy and perfumed bold nose of cassis, black cherry and smart oak. Concentrated palate of red and black fruits with intense and supple tannins; smart wine.

Shiloh Winery, Mosaic Exclusive Edition, Shiloh, Judean Hills, Israel 2017

Gold, 95 points

38% Syrah, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot

Lifted, floral violet, luscious red berry fruit and spice aromas on the nose, while the palate is graced vibrant fruit, leather and a beautiful mineral finish.

Niki Hills, Yuhzome Zweigeltrebe, Yoichi, Hokkaido, Japan 2018

Gold, 95 points

100% Zweigelt

Resplendent scents of herbs, spice, pepper and red stone fruits. The palate is gamey with a herbal note, chalky tannins. Very long finish. Bravo!

Sweet

Provins, Les Domaines Tourbillon Sélection Grains Noble, Valais, Switzerland 2015

Best in Show, 97 points

100% Petite Arvine

An exceptional showing from Switzerland in this year’s DWWA presented our judges with a panoply of exciting specialties. In the end, the wine which made it through to our Best In Show selection was this gracious, nuanced and decidedly Alpine dessert wine made from the indigenous Valais variety Petite Arvine. The colour is a rich and glowing yellow, yet the aromas seem to bring a breath of fresh mountain air with them, full of the herbs and flowers of the high pastures. It’s amply sweet (enough to partner desserts), yet that freshness and poise never leaves it, and there is even a hint of herb and blossom in the final candied note.

Denbies, The Brokes Botrytis Ortega, Surrey, United Kingdom 2016

Gold, 96 points

100% Ortega

Dense and concentrated, with excellent fruit. This is elegant, complex and rounded, revealing nectarine, honey, candied lemon and brown sugar, with enlivening acidity giving it a moreish character.

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Search all DWWA 2020 award-winning wines

DWWA 2021 entries are open – Enter now

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The province of Rías Baixas, home to Mar de Frades winery, may not immediately strike you as being the spiritual home of one of the finest white varietals, Albariño; it arguably lacks the aesthetically dramatic calling cards of more renowned regions. The vineyards sit low – rarely above 300m – while the winters are mild and characterised by Atlantic-driven rains which regularly linger, uninvited, into spring and summer.

Yet, despite the bruising climate the grape, which has been cultivated in Rías Baixas for over 1,000 years, has come to fit like a glove, with its thick skins providing protection from rot and the free-draining, sand-over-granite soils ensuring the vines avoid saturation.

Mar de Frades was established in 1987, one year before Rías Baixas achieved DO status, so has been intrinsic to the region’s burgeoning reputation and success, riding a wave as consumers’ thirsts switched from barrel-aged whites to more immediately rewarding, refreshing wines.

One of the leading exponents of the region’s every-evolving styles, Mar de Frades has more recently begun to shine a light on Albariño’s extraordinary and underappreciated ageing potential. It’s acidity and pH levels bear striking resemblance to those found in Riesling, and further parallels rise to the surface as the wines age, with distinct notes of petrol and almonds revealing themselves over the years.

Mar de Frades Finca Valiñas is an archetypal example of an Albariño built to age, with the 2016 release only recently seeing the light of day following four years maturing – without oak – in the cellar. It’s a wine which began life in a vineyard planted in 1975 on a hillside in Salinés Valley, with outcrops of granite reinforcing the grapes’ inherent acidity and which, combined with the vineyard’s altitude, form the sturdy backbone needed for longevity.

Following fermentation, the wine sits on its lees for one year, followed by two years of battonage (lees stirring) combined with further rest, before a final year of bottle ageing.

It’s a wine with an indisputable ability to develop and improve, according to Mar de Frades winemaker, Paula Fandiño: ‘Finca Valiñas has an ageing potential of at least 10 years,’ she states. ‘When we open old vintages of our Albariños, we discover notes of salinity, minerality and iodine which remind us of Galician canneries, mussels and pickles.’

Fandiño believes that it is preserving this regional essence which is key to the progression and future success of Rías Baixas, while at the same time pursuing practices that realise the magnificent ageing potential of Albariño. ‘Our terroir, climate and viticultural traditions are fundamental in differentiating and defining the character of our Albariño,’ she says.

‘We need to age the wines in different materials including granite, clay and concrete as well as stainless steel. We must treat the lees carefully, using battonage, or letting the wines rest on their own fine lees for months or even years, before finally ageing even further in tank or bottle. In doing so, we produce singular, long-lived wines which speak of Albariño and Galicia, and will remain in the memory of wine lovers.’

www.mardefrades.es

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Susy Atkins, Romain Bourger and Keith Kirkpatrick tasted 56 affordable California whites with 16 recommended wines.

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The verdict

While Chardonnay (in 35 of 56 entries) dominated this tasting, it wasn’t the whole story. As with the less-traditional grape varieties fielded for the reds, our expert panel was excited to see an eclectic mix among the remaining whites. ‘I was quite impressed to see Fiano, Grenache, Grüner Veltliner, Chenin Blanc… I think there were some really nice wines in there,’ said Keith Kirkpatrick. ‘They may struggle to be competitive at their price points in the UK, but they were thoroughly enjoyable wines to drink.’

Romain Bourger agreed: ‘I actually preferred these lesser-known varieties to the Chardonnays. It’s always interesting to taste different examples around the world of, say, Albariño, Grüner Veltliner and white Italian varieties. Even the Rieslings were easy-drinking with good aromatics.’

Susy Atkins noted that many ‘lacked the crisp acidity and freshness – that varietal clout – that you’d see in their European equivalents, but it’s great to see such interest and variety is on offer, particularly for US drinkers.’

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Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the top affordable California white wines

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Turning their attention to Chardonnay, Bourger noted a real improvement in Chardonnay quality from the more southern AVAs. ‘Santa Cruz, Monterey, Santa Barbara County – these areas for me scored relatively well,’ he noted. ‘We don’t know the prices, but I would expect great value for money from these regions. Fantastic, more elegant Chardonnay compared with many northern areas.’

The Chardonnays did come in for some criticism, however. ‘We failed to find any absolute stars’, noted Atkins, while Kirkpatrick felt producers hadn’t ‘moved with the times’ with this variety as much as with others. ‘At this price point, it seems they are sticking rigidly to the same winemaking methods they’ve been using for the past 20 or 30 years,’ he said. ‘There’s still too much obvious oak, too much heat from the alcohol, some unnecessary sweetness and not enough fresh, pure fruit character coming through.’

Kirkpatrick said there was no doubt that California could deliver lovely expressions of Chardonnay at a premium price, but ‘in this middle ground, it looks like producers are still working too hard to try to elevate what is essentially a simple, entry- level wine by throwing money – oak – at it, rather than focusing on getting really good fruit and the most elegant expression they can.’

Atkins defended the oak use in certain examples. ‘Some are good, honest, oaked California Chardonnays, and why shouldn’t they be?’ She did, however, have a problem with acidity. ‘Some of the Chardonnays were hot and flabby, lacking acidity. Then others had too much, with producers trying too hard to get a fresh finish, so we ended up with pithy, sour wines.

‘Getting that balance right still seems an issue in California,’ she said. ‘For the Sauvignon Blancs, as well, many of which were quite clumsy in relation to what we find from Europe.’

Bourger was particularly impressed by the small number of sparkling wines that were entered. ‘Regrettably we don’t see as many as we should in the UK, as they are consistently very good,’ he said. ‘Yes, some were quite rich and full, but that is sunny California! But they still had good balance with enough acidity and freshness.’ Atkins was encouraged by the quality and hoped UK consumers would see more sparkling wines in this price range, while Kirkpatrick praised those that had undergone judicious barrel fermentation and ageing.

Discussion copy by Tina Gellie

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The affordable California whites scores:

56 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly Recommended 16

Recommended 25

Commended 9

Fair 5

Poor 0

Faulty 1

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About affordable California whites

Can the Golden State’s white wines provide value, interest and balance at the £30/$30 level? After assessing the reds last month, we turn our focus to mid-priced whites. Susy Atkins poses the questions

California white wine is almost synonymous with Chardonnay. It’s the state’s most widely planted grape variety of all, with nearly 37,800ha in 2017. And anyone who thinks it’s going out of fashion should think again. Chardonnay has been California’s leading grape for the past decade with sales increases every year, according to the California Wine Institute.

It was not always so. Although plantings of the grape date back to the late 19th century, its use was somewhat limited for a long time, mainly due to the perception that Chardonnay gave low yields. During Prohibition, 1920-1933, many Chardonnay vineyards were replaced with varieties that had thicker skins, such as Zinfandel, which were seen as hardier.

It wasn’t until the 1970s that Chardonnay’s popularity started to rise significantly. Today, Monterey AVA has the most plantings, at about 6,880ha, many vast vineyards there filling the valley floor. Sonoma is second with 6,313ha, and the hotter San Joaquin region to the east of San Francisco is third with a little more than 5,260ha.

The idea that less expensive California Chardonnay is uniform in style – sweetish, over-oaky and strong – is misguided. Chardonnay can be chameleon-like here as elsewhere, and styles are diverse, from ripe and juicy, tropical-fruited versions to crisper, zestier ones often hailing from cooler spots and, of course, a proportion that have a vanilla and butterscotch, sometimes toasty oak character.

Our tasting was an opportunity to see which of these stylistic interpretations performed best – and from which AVAs.

The late 20th century saw many plantings of Chardonnay in cooler regions with coastal influence or higher altitudes. Did the wines from these vineyards make it into our best buys under £30/$30, though, or are they more premium whites commanding higher price tags? Does the use of expensive oak barrels mean few wines in this style make it into our best buys?

That said, California Chardonnay grapes are relatively cheap at an average of $924 per tonne, compared to Pinot Noir at $1,688 and Cabernet Sauvignon at $1,553, so perhaps it ought to be easier to make good examples at an affordable price.

Beyond Chardonnay

While Chardonnay dominated, there were several Sauvignon Blancs – but can California ever compete with Chile for value for money with this variety, and in what style? (Is fumé passé?)

Riesling is a grape now more associated with Washington State and the Finger Lakes in New York State, but back in the 1960s it was one of the top grapes in California. It fell out of favour in the 1980s, seen as unfashionable and often too sweet, but there’s some indication of a revival of interest of late. Pinot Gris, Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Albariño and even Grüner Veltliner were all represented in the tasting too. Can any grape begin to rival Chardonnay as the queen of California whites under £30/$30? Let’s find out.

Top scoring California whites under £30 / $30

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The judges

Susy Atkins

Atkins is a widely published and awarded wine writer and presenter, weekly drinks columnist for The Sunday Telegraph and wine editor of Delicious magazine. The author of 11 books on wine and drinks, she has appeared as a wine expert on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen show over 12 years. www.susyatkins.co.uk

Romain Bourger

Bourger is head sommelier at The Vineyard at Stockcross, owned by Sir Peter Michael and one of the UK’s top specialists in California wine. He studied hospitality and catering in Moselle before starting out in 2008 as a sommelier at Hotel du Vin Winchester. He won the Taittinger UK Sommelier of the Year competition in 2019

Keith Kirkpatrick

Kirkpatrick is a buyer for Roberson Wine – winner in the USA Specialist category in the 2020 Decanter Retailer Awards. He began his career as a sommelier in Belfast in the late 1990s, then moved to London and joined retailer Oddbins in 2000, taking on a new role in on-trade sales in 2009 before joining Roberson a year later

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‘The “cocktail” is a modern invention, and is generally used on fishing and other sporting parties, although some patients insist that it is good in the morning as a tonic.’

Given that Jerry Thomas wrote these words in 1862 (in his seminal book, The Bar-Tender’s Guide), it’s unlikely that he was extolling the virtues of early-morning lockdown drinking – but the pandemic has given us all the opportunity to up our game when it comes to home mixology.

Not all of us, however, have the skills, equipment or ingredients necessary to replicate the style bar experience in our own living rooms, so it’s good to know that the quality of premixed, ready made cocktails has never been higher – from specialist producers, and from some of the top bars we’ve all missed visiting so much over the past year.

You might need to break out the cocktail shaker to get the best out of one or two of these, but most require very little effort indeed: just chill, pour and enjoy.

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Best ready made cocktails: Seven to try

Hawksmoor

The steak restaurant chain is as well-known for the excellence of its drinks as for the quality of its beef – and the theme continues with a superlative range of bottled and canned cocktails. This is a series of tweaked and twisted classics, from a pin-sharp Ultimate Dry Martini to the fiery smoke of the Back Burner spicy margarita.

Pick of the range: Fuller-fat Old Fashioned. Brown butter and tonka bean pair brilliantly with Woodford Reserve Bourbon to create a toasty, oaky delight.

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Speakeasy At Home

Via a ‘Sipscription Service’, monthly themed boxes of cocktails are created by three of London’s leading bars: Nightjar, Oriole and Swift. The drinks, supplied in 220ml pouches, are original creations, and come with their own music playlist, garnishes and bartender video. This month it’s a Valentine theme; future boxes will explore Cinco de Mayo, Save the Bees and Hallowe’en.

Pick of the range: The Highlander (Oriole). Indulgent but beautifully balanced combination of Glenmorangie, dark chocolate wine, honey bush nectar and lemon.

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World of Zing

A business started by Pritesh Mody (cocktail expert on Channel 4’s Sunday Brunch) and a leading supplier to bars, restaurants and hotels – now pivoting its business model to sell straight to the consumer during the pandemic.

The Spirit of Zing range of bottled cocktails (250ml or 500ml) is extensive and quality is consistently high, from the Bordeaux cask-aged Negroni to the Steel-aged Manhattan and a dangerously enjoyable Strawberry and Basil Mojito.

Pick of the range: Persian Lime and Nori Margarita. A cocktail cliché has new life breathed into it thanks to a zippy blend of nori (seaweed) bitters, dried Persian lime and Don Julio Tequila.

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Urban Bar

Best-known as a supplier of bar equipment and glassware, Urban Bar has branched out during the pandemic to sell spirits – and a three-strong range of premixed cocktails created by mixologist Giancarlo Mancini and sold via Amazon.

Supplied in 50cl bottles with Italian vermouth to the fore, there’s a punchy Espresso Martini, a refreshing Spritz Italiano to combine with prosecco or sparkling water – and, given the Italian provenance of the range, the inevitable Negroni.

Pick of the range: Negroni. Made in Italy using London Dry gin, Vermouth di Torino Rosso and Bianco, and Rinomato Bitter Scuro, this is a classic, pleasingly bitter drink perfect for those Zoom aperitivo moments.

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The Wolseley Collection Take Home Cocktails (Fischer’s, Marylebone Village) 

Another superb set of two-serve (250ml) cocktails developed for The Wolseley by the bar team at Fischer’s in Marylebone Village – so fresh that three out of the five have to be consumed within three days of delivery. The emphasis is on the classics – Margarita, Daiquiri, Negroni, Manhattan and English Rose – executed with brilliant simplicity.

Pick of the range: Hemingway Daiquiri. It’ll be a while before any of us can jet off to Havana, but in the meantime this zingy, ultra-fresh combination of rum, grapefruit, lime and maraschino liqueur is a Caribbean delight.

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MOTH (Mix of Total Happiness)

Exclusive to Waitrose for three months from February, these are single-serve (125ml) canned cocktails at a more wallet-friendly price (£3.99) than style bar offerings. Crowd-pleasing classics on offer include a Negroni, Espresso Martini, Old Fashioned and Margarita, while the hip packaging has a craft beer feel about it.

Pick of the range: Espresso Martini. Getting the strength right is key to any cocktail. Where 14.9% abv feels a tad underpowered for the MOTH Margarita, it’s bang-on for this wonderful mix of Wood Bros Winter Wheat vodka, cold brew coffee and coffee liqueur.

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New Breed Bottle Shop

Opening a new independent retail venture in the middle of a pandemic scores you points for courage, if nothing else. This Loughton store delivers nationwide from its online shop, including bottled cocktails from acclaimed Dalston bar Three Sheets, canned premixes from the East London Liquor Co – and single-serve (95ml) bottled cocktails from the excellent Bottle Proof. The range is extensive and well worth exploring.

Pick of the range: Old Fashioned (Bottle Proof). Not as high-octane as the Hawksmoor example, but still hugely expressive and excellent value for money.

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Best whiskies for cocktails

Champagne cocktails to make at home