Ask someone to name the best-known white wine grapes and there’s a good chance Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio will feature. The latter also comes in the guise of Pinot Gris.

Other popular names coming up might include Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Sémillon, Viognier or Albariño.

Technically speaking, white wines can be made from either white or black grape varieties.

The latter are commonly used for red wines, but they can also make white wines if the juice is separated from the skins early enough in the winemaking process. Examples include the use of Pinot Noir, or Pinot Meunier, in Champagne.

Most widely planted white grape varieties

While Chardonnay et al are some of the most international of white wine grapes, Spain’s Airén was still the world’s most widely planted white grape variety in 2016.

That’s according to the 2020 revised edition of ‘Which winegrape varieties are grown where’, authored by the economists professor Kym Anderson and Dr Signe Nelgen, of the University of Adelaide and Geisenheim University respectively.

It has been declining but stayed narrowly ahead of well-travelled Chardonnay, according to the book’s ranking.

Airén’s traditional stronghold is in Spain’s La Mancha region, where it has often been used for brandy production, said the book.

The top 10* most widely planted white grape varieties listed by the authors are:

• Airén
• Chardonnay
• Sauvignon Blanc
• Trebbiano Toscano
• Riesling
• Rkatsiteli
• Macabeo
• Cayetana Blanca
• Muscat of Alexandria
• Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains

*Pinot Gris / Pinot Grigio commonly makes white wines and has been classed as a ‘grey variety’ by the authors.

Source: Which winegrape varieties are grown where? Revised edition (2020)

White wine grapes: plenty to discover

While some high-profile, jet-setting varieties turn up in many regions, there are more white wine grapes out there than could possibly be mentioned in this article, of course.

Speaking about white grape varieties specifically, several have become known for their prominence in particular areas, from Bacchus in England to Assyrtiko in Greece.

Others hide their light behind the name of an appellation or region. If someone offers to pour you a glass of Garganega, they might be uncorking a bottle of Soave from northern Italy.

And decisions about vineyard site, management and winemaking style will also affect how these varieties present themselves in your wine glass.

In the Chardonnay stronghold of Burgundy, you’d expect a Meursault to show oak influence, and this will be expertly-integrated in the best examples.

Chablis further north traditionally gives new oak a wide berth.

Certain varieties are considered aromatic white wine grapes.

Some white varieties are known for their ability to make delicious sweet wines, and just a few examples include Riesling in Germany, Furmint in Tokaji, and Sémillon in Sauternes.

Muscat de Frontignan (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) is used for Vin de Constance in South Africa, reportedly a favoured tipple of Napoleon Bonaparte back in the day.

Do white grape varieties always make white wines?

There are always exceptions and grey areas in the wine world.

To give one example, white grape varieties can be used to make ‘orange wines’ by leaving the skins in contact with the juice in the winemaking cellar.

Sometimes white grape varieties exert unseen influence.

In the Northern Rhône’s celebrated Côte Rôtie red wine appellation, small amounts of Viognier can be used alongside Syrah, for instance.

You might also have seen Shiraz-Viognier blends in Australia.

In 2019, Decanter.com reported on how some Châteauneuf-du-Pape winemakers planned to take advantage of long-standing rules allowing them to add white grapes to their red wines.

This could help protect freshness and acidity in the face of climate change, they said.

White wine, grapes and colour

As this article on wine colour explains, it’s possible to make white wine from ‘red wine grapes’, also known as black grapes because of the way they change colour when ripening.

As noted above, clear juice must be separated from the grape skins early in the winemaking process.

So-called ‘blanc de noirs’ is an example in Champagne but there are others around the wine world.

Other varieties that are well-known for white wines have darker shades of colour in the vineyard than you might expect.

‘Pinot Grigio grapes have a red (not pink) skin,’ said David Gleave, MD of Liberty Wines in this response to a Decanter reader query on Pinot Grigio ‘rosato’.

Gewürztraminer is another example of a grape that produces white wines yet is known for its pinkish red colour.

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With Mother’s Day fast approaching, you may be on the hunt for an original gift to show your mum just how much you appreciate her. Flowers fade and chocolates rarely last long, so we recommend investing in a decent bottle of gin this year.

Admittedly mums and gin haven’t always had the best press. The spirit was nicknamed ‘mother’s ruin’ back in the 18^th century, when cheap gins became widely available in England and sparked a gin-drinking craze among the poorer population. Gin was consequently blamed for all manner of social ills and it took an act of parliament in 1751 to regulate sales and bring the situation back under control.

The current gin craze is an altogether more sophisticated affair, driven by cocktail culture and a renewed interest in the provenance of beverages. With small distilleries springing up everywhere, gin fans can buy local and also learn about regional ingredients used by distillers.

On the flip side, this means that gin lovers are also spoiled for choice, as an ever-increasing range of bottles appear in our shops. It can be confusing to know where to start with so much choice – especially if you’re trying to find a special bottle as a gift.

Going back to basics, all gin is distilled as a neutral base spirit and then flavoured with botanicals. A ‘botanical’ is defined as any plant-based substance, ranging from roots, flowers, berries and leaves, to herbs and spices.

All gins must contain juniper berries – it’s juniper that gives gin its piney freshness and crisp, dry palate. In addition to juniper, citrus peel, coriander seeds and angelica root are commonly used to form a botanical core.

Beyond that, a dazzling array of botanicals can appear in gin. So to help you find the right one, here’s our pick of bottles that might appeal to your mum.

Mother’s day gin: Best bottles to buy

Jindea Single Estate Tea Gin

Mums are well known for dispensing cups of tea and sympathy – and if your mother is a tea lover, choose a gin with tea botanicals. Jindea is made with first flush Darjeeling tea and boasts serious drinks industry pedigree. Created by three bar professionals with historic family links to India, working with Ajit Madam, the UK’s first certified Tea Sommelier, Jindea is a refreshing citrusy gin with elegant tea notes and ginger spice.

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Salcombe Seamist

Salcombe’s Seamist may look like a glamorous crystal perfume atomiser, but it contains a clever ‘liquid garnish’ created using coastal botanicals and Cornish Sea salt to encapsulate the essence of the ocean. Pimp your G&T by mixing Salcombe Start Point Gin with your favourite tonic and plenty of ice in a balloon glass, then finish with two sprays of Seamist over the top of the glass. Or create a Mistini using 50ml gin, 20ml dry vermouth and 10ml fino Sherry, finished with four spritzes of Seamist.

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Silent Pool English Rose Gin

This special release from Surrey distiller Silent Pool is a perfect choice if rose is your mum’s favourite fragrance. Many rose gins can end up smelling and tasting confected, but this is well made, with fresh floral aromas and distinct notes of rose water and Turkish delight that linger on the crisp citrus finish. Celebrate Mother’s Day with an English Rose Tom Collins: mix 50ml English Rose Gin with 25ml lemon juice and 25ml sugar syrup. Top with soda water and garnish with a twist of lemon peel.

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Kew Botanical Gin

If your mum is a nature lover and enjoys visiting parks and gardens, this collaboration between Kew Gardens and the East London Liquor Co will make a great gift. Inspired by plants and pollinators, it is made using botanicals that are grown at Kew including Douglas fir, lavender and sweet orange. Use it to mix up a softly floral, fragrant G&T for your mum. She’ll love the bright botanical label too.

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Lind & Lime Gin

Made in Edinburgh, this Scottish craft gin comes in a beautiful bottle but – just like your mother – it’s more than a pretty face. It celebrates the work of Edinburgh doctor, James Lind, who in the 18th century discovered that citrus fruit helps to prevent scurvy: one of the reasons why you should listen to your mum when she tells you to eat more fruit… That’s why lime is one of the key botanicals in this gin, along with pink peppercorns, which help to create a truly classy gin with citrus freshness and distinctive spiciness.

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Bloom Gin

If you like to say it with flowers, why not say it with a floral gin? Created by Master Distiller Joanne Moore, Bloom is a light gin style, made with less juniper to create  an easy drinking spirit that will even appeal to non-gin drinkers. Made with botanicals including pomelo, chamomile and honeysuckle, you can use it to create a super-smooth and delicate G&T, with a gentle florality that lingers on finish.

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Chapel Down Pinot Noir Gin

For mamas who are partial to both wine and gin, this pink gin from English wine producer Chapel Down ticks all the boxes. Made from distilled Pinot Noir grape skins, infused with botanicals including coriander and rosehip, the pale pink hue comes from dried raspberries and strawberries. Try it in a Tenterden Blush sparkling cocktail: 50ml of gin mixed with 50ml lemonade and topped with 25ml of Chapel Down Brut.

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Mermaid Gin

With its shimmering fish scale bottle and foraged coastal rock samphire botanicals, Mermaid might be as close as you can get to treating your mum to a day out at the seaside during a lockdown Mother’s Day. Made on the Isle of Wight, there is a lovely breezy ozone freshness to the aromas and a slight salty note on the finish. Makes a fresh and creamy G&T, as well as looking beautiful on your mama’s sideboard.

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Secret Garden Wild Gin

If your mum loves gardening or the great outdoors, choose The Old Curiosity Distillery’s Secret Garden Wild Gin, created by former wine merchant Hamish Martin, a man with a herbology diploma and a lifelong passion for plants. Botanicals including nettle, dwarf birch and bog myrtle grow in the distillery’s gin garden in the Flow Country, a peatland ecosystem in northern Scotland. Secret Garden makes a smooth, herbal G&T and 20% of proceeds from sales are donated to the RSPB’s preservation work in the Flow Country.

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Tanqueray Flor de Sevilla

For mums with a sense of adventure, who like to explore the world, this twist on Tanqueray’s classic gin is inspired by Seville in Spain’s Andalucia. Including Seville oranges among its botanicals, Flor de Sevilla is smooth and fruity, with a sweet orange lift to the nose and palate. Pair it with Fever-Tree Mediterranean Tonic Water and serve it in a large balloon glass with plenty of ice and an orange slice for a Spanish-style Gin Tonica.

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Every year we hear a raft of stories about tax on wine, as well as beer and spirits, as the UK chancellor unveils the latest plan to juggle the nation’s in-comings and out-goings.

There’s not been a lot of good news for wine lovers in the past decade, as successive governments have raised duty tax, at least in-line with inflation.

Wine duty has risen by 12% on wine since 2014, more than for beer or spirits, campaign group Wine Drinkers UK said last year.

This week, chancellor Rishi Sunak announced a duty freeze on wine, spirits, cider and beer in the UK budget for 2021.

It’s the second consecutive year of freezes. ‘We will all raise a glass to the chancellor tonight,’ said Miles Beale, CEO of the Wine & Spirit Trade Association.

Still, many in the wine trade have long argued that if you increase your spend on wine – even by a little – then you are in theory getting better value for money in the glass.

For example, the Bibendum graphic above shows that a bottle of wine costing £7.50 or £10 should mean that a higher proportion of the money is going into the winemaking, versus a bottle of wine at the £5 mark.

It’s not an exact science, because costs such as shipping, marketing and retailer profit margins will vary.

Merchants and importers have also warned about higher costs related to Brexit.

Yet, there is a broad logic to the argument.

If one only looks at duty and VAT – sales tax – the graphic above shows that more than 50% of the money spent on a £5 bottle of still wine (5.5% abv to 15% abv) goes straight to the government’s coffers.

On a £7.50 bottle of wine you’re paying £3.48 in duty and VAT, so just under 50% of the price.

For a £10 bottle, you’re paying £3.90 in duty and VAT, so 39% of the bottle price.

The duty and VAT on a £20 wine is £5.56, so a bit more than 25%, according to the graphic.

The government actually quotes rates per hectolitre (100 litres), but the Bibendum graphic above is calibrated for a single 75cl bottle.

Tax on wine: VAT vs duty

VAT rises proportionately with the price of the bottle, but duty is charged on alcoholic strength in the UK.

A still wine at more than 5.5% abv and up to 15% abv inclusive will have the same duty rate regardless of whether it costs £5 or £500.

For sparkling wine, the rates are slightly different.

• Above 5.5% abv and up to 8.5% abv:  Duty equivalent to £2.16 per 75cl bottle.
• 8.5% abv to 15% abv: Duty equivalent to £2.86 per 75cl bottle.

The UK is known to have some of the highest alcohol duty rates in Europe, alongside Scandinavian countries.

Could changes be coming to UK tax on wine?

It will be interesting to see if tax on wine changes in the next few years.

UK officials have been conducting an ‘alcohol duty review’, and issued a call for evidence in 2020.

Some believe that pubs, bars and restaurants should have a different rate, compared to retailers.

Kate Nicholls, CEO of trade group UK Hospitality, welcomed the chancellor’s support for the industry this week, but also raised the issue of future duty rates.

‘As we emerge from the [Covid] crisis, we hope that the government will seriously consider a separate rate, long pushed for by this sector, for on-trade alcohol,’ she said.

Sources include Bibendum (graphic), the WSTA and figures in the government’s Alcohol Duty Review paper (September 2020).

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Chancellor Sunak announced the wine duty tax freeze among a raft of measures in his UK Budget 2021 speech today (3 March).

Whilst it’s not the duty cut that some trade members had hoped for, the move means that tax will not rise in-line with inflation.

It is the second consecutive year of alcohol duty freezes in the Budget.

‘The decision to freeze wine and spirit duty comes as a huge relief for British businesses, pubs, restaurants and its suppliers following the crushing – and continuing – closure of the hospitality sector for months on end, during the pandemic,’ said Miles Beale, CEO of the Wine and Spirit Trade Association (WSTA).

‘Chancellor Rishi Sunak seems to “get it”. He understands that supporting our industry will allow it to recover, rebuild, create jobs and – in time – replenish revenues to the Treasury.’

‘We will all raise a glass to the chancellor tonight – and look forward to more permanent support for the sector following the review of alcohol taxation.’

The WSTA has long been lobbying for a duty cut, highlighting that the UK pays higher alcohol duty than much of Europe.

In the UK, duty on a 750ml bottle of wine is £2.23, and duty on a 750ml bottle of sparkling wine is £2.86. VAT is charged on top of this, and rises proportionally with the retail price.

Speaking for campaign group Wine Drinkers UK, which ran the Cut Back Wine Tax campaign, wine writer and broadcaster Helena Nicklin said of the duty freeze, ‘This comes at a time when the industry needs it most… I hope Rishi Sunak continues to show support for wine drinkers in the upcoming Alcohol Duty Review.’

Dayalan Nayager, managing director of Diageo Great Britain, said, ‘We thank the chancellor for providing much-needed stability by freezing alcohol duty.

‘The last year has been incredibly tough and today’s decision, along with other measures to help the trade, gives the industry confidence to meet the ongoing challenges in these critical last months before reopening.

‘We now look ahead to the Alcohol Duty Review and welcome the opportunity to work with Government to bring greater fairness to the duty system and spirits producers across the UK.’

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Tax on wine: How much do you pay in the UK? 

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UK Budget 2021: Hospitality business measures

Sunak announced some measures in the Budget speech to help the hospitality industry, which has been heavily impacted by Covid-19 restrictions. Measures include ‘restart grants’ for reopening, up to £18,000, and recovery loans.

The business rates holiday will continue at 100% until the end of June, and subsequently at up to two-thirds of the cost for the rest of the year, it was announced.

A temporary VAT rate of 5% for hospitality and tourism venues was also extended until September, followed by an interim reduced rate of 12.5% for the following six months. However, this does not cover alcoholic drinks.

At the WSTA, Beale said, ‘We also welcome the extension to the VAT cut for the hospitality sector, but it is disappointing that the chancellor did not extend this to include alcoholic drinks, which would have given the trade a real boost when they are finally allowed to re-open their doors to the public.’

Kate Nicholls, CEO of trade body UK Hospitality, welcomed support from the chancellor.

On alcohol specifically, she added, ‘Scrapping any increase on the rate of alcohol duty is a pragmatic step. Additional costs were the last thing that businesses needed at the minute.

‘As we emerge from the crisis, we hope that the Government will seriously consider a separate rate, long pushed for by this sector, for on-trade alcohol.’

The furlough scheme has also been extended until September.

Vying for the attention of the expert judges at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2020, Germany’s red wines performed better than in any other year, winning a record-breaking number of Platinum medals.

From elegant Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) to Lemberger and Syrah, below are some top-scoring examples to watch out for…

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Jan Konetzki on judging German wines at DWWA 2020

Classically, Germany produces staggering Pinot Noirs from the slightly cooler areas, as well as from the warmer areas in the south. We have tasted some fantastic drinking wines, from “session” Pinot Noirs up to really top-quality, ageworthy grand cru styles.

What really surprised me is that lesser-known and less-featured areas such as Württemberg and signature varieties, Lemberger for example, showed really well and exhibited, even on the grand cru side, some real promise. Slightly quirkier varieties, for example Syrah, have also shown fantastically well from Germany – so watch out for German reds!

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Baden

Fritz Wassmer, Sommerhalde Bombach Spätburgunder 2016

97 points, Platinum

€56 (2017) www.weingutfritzwassmer.de

Opulent, pretty aromas of black cherry, lifted violet, plush raspberry and cocoa lead through to a palate graced with sour cherry, clove, liquorice, red plum and all underpinned with a hint of dark spice. Alc 13.5%

Martin Wassmer, Dottinger Castellberg Syrah 2016

97 points, Platinum

€64 (2018) www.weingut-wassmer.de

Heady spiced layers of white pepper, vanilla, lush blackberry, sour cherry and supple, seductive oak lead on to a luscious palate laced with black cherry, plum, blackcurrant and harmonious, polished tannins. Alc 13.5%

Fritz Wassmer, Alte Reben Spätburgunder 2017

93 points, Silver

€29 www.weingutfritzwassmer.de

Perfumed and inviting layers of cold smoke, balmy spice and cherry, while the palate is plush with velvety fruit. Alc 13.1%

Hex vom Dasenstein, Spätburgunder GG 2017

93 points, Silver

€19.90 (2018) www.hex-vom-dasenstein-weinshop.de

Plush and brooding with hints of blackcurrant, mulberry and dark spice, then to a palate of elegant toasted oak and rolling tannins. Alc 14.5%

Martin Wassmer, Schlatter Maltesergarten Pinot Noir 2016

93 points, Silver

£22.40 (2015) The Vineyard Belfast

Elegant and restrained aromas of spice, clove and raspberry, then to a palate of black fruit, mocha and gingerbread. Alc 13.5%

Alde Gott, Von Alten Reben Spätburgunder Spätlese Trocken 2017

92 points, Silver

€13.50 (2018) www.aldegott.de

Attractive and inviting honeycomb, baked strawberry and dark chocolate nose, cherry and plush spiced oak on the palate. Alc 14%

Schneider, Weiler Schlipf Spätburgunder 2016

92 points, Silver

£28 (2017) Swig

N/A UK www.weingut-am-schlipf.de

Perfumed with dried herb, heady smoke and Morello cherry, elegant fine acidity and supple tannins on the palate. Alc 13%

Württemberg

Aldinger, Fellbacher Lämmler Lemberger GG 2017

97 points, Platinum

£50.40 The WineBarn

Elegant and enticing on the nose, with layers of cassis, blueberry, gingerbread, liquorice, clove and lush bramble, then on to a palate of white pepper, lemongrass, plush black fruit and silky smooth tannins. Alc 13%

Schnaitmann, Lämmler Spätburgunder GG 2017

92 points, Silver

£52 (ib, 2018) Honest Grapes

Inviting and smoky, with flinty hints of elegant spice and red fruit, the palate is graced with blueberry and a neat acidity. Alc 13%

Cleebronn & Güglingen, Herzog C Lemberger 2017

91 points, Silver

€9.80 (2018) www.cleebronner-weinshop.de

Heady liquorice, candied orange peel, cinnamon and clove lead on to vibrant spicy blackberry and supple, smooth tannins. Alc 13%

Pfalz

Schenk-Siebert, Neuleininger Feuermännchen Spätburgunder 2017

95 points, Gold

€20 (2018) https://shop.weingut-schenk-siebert.de

Inviting and smoky aromas of plush black fruit, dark chocolate, mocca and luxurious oak, then to a spiced palate of black cherry, blackberry and subtle tannins. Alc 14.1%

Weinbiet, Von Ersten Lagen Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

91 points, Silver

€7 (2019) https://shop.weinbiet.de

Opulent with black cherry, black current leaf and dark chocolate nose, elegant spice, mocha and pristine tannins on the palate. Alc 14%

Rheinhessen

Lisa Bunn, Nierstein vom Rotliegenden St Laurent 2017

91 points, Silver

€13.50 (2018) https://weingut-bunn.de

Beautifully aromatic, with layers of tangerine, dried flower and blueberry, then on to a palate of concentrated blackcurrant and shimmering acidity. Alc 13.5%

Rheingau

Georg Müller, Hassel Spätburgunder GG 2017

94 points, Silver

N/A www.georg-mueller-stiftung.de

Perfumed with mulberry, Morello cherry and toasty oak, supple tannins, dark chocolate and neat acidity on the palate. Alc 13.5%

Kloster Eberbach, Assmannshäuser Höllenberg Crescentia Spätburgunder 2016

93 points, Silver

£25-£30 Boutinot, Chester Beer & Wine, Drink Finder, Kwoff, North & South, Wild & Lees

Elegant wood smoke, raspberry and chocolate aromatics lead on to spiced oak, blackcurrant, red cherry and harmonious acidity. Alc 13%

Ahr

Maibachfarm, Burggarten Spätburgunder 2017

95 points, Gold

€29 (2015) www.maibachfarm.de

Smoky, flinty aromas of plush dark fruit, cardamom, gingerbread and liquorice, while the palate is layered with Morello jam, dried blueberry and gentle, polished tannins. Alc 13.5%

Maibachfarm, Recher Herrenberg Spätburgunder 2017

94 points, Silver

€29 (2015) www.maibachfarm.de

Heady with hints of cassis, Moroccan spice and blueberry leading to dried thyme and plush fruit on the savoury palate. Alc 13.5%

Dagernova, Heimersheimer Landskrone Spätburgunder 2018

93 points, Silver

€24.90 (2017) www.dagernova.de

Fragrant and inviting with aromas of mulberry, raspberry and herb, crunchy fruit and spice on the silky palate. Alc 13.5%

Kreuzberg, Devonschiefer R Spätburgunder 2017

91 points, Silver

N/A www.weingut-kreuzberg.de

Heady with candied orange peel, dried herb and dark berry on the nose, plum liqueur and opulent spiced fruit on the palate. Alc 13.5%

Sachsen

Schloss Proschwitz, Spätburgunder GG 2016

94 points, Silver

€23.50 www.proschwitzer-weinshop.de

Bright with pretty raspberry, heady gingerbread and red cherry leading to forest fruit, vanilla and plush tannins on the palate. Alc 13%

GG Grosses Gewächs

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Based in New York City, Wine Cellarage showcases an extraordinary portfolio of over 14,000 wines from some of the most prestigious producers and regions in the world. 

From its vast portfolio, Wine Cellarage has selected six top-scoring wines from the Decanter World Wine Awards 2020 and is offering 10% off your order of any of these wines with the coupon code WCDWWA10 from 1-31 March 2021.

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More about Wine Cellarage

Wine Cellarage’s charter is to build a more transparent wine marketplace with more options, better pricing, and more convenience for customers. It offers a single point for clients to purchase and properly store their wine collections.

With its proprietary database technology to network the supply chain of the wine industry, Wine Cellarage provides customers with a broad selection of vintage, rare and everyday wines sourced from a vast network of industry participants and vetted private cellars. 

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Wine Cellarage x DWWA 2020

Save 10% off any of the below award-winning wines with the code WCDWWA10, now until 31 March 2021.

Sparkling

Laurent-Perrier, Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature, Champagne NV

Gold, 95 points

$82.00 Wine Cellarage

Refined scents of flowers and white pears. The mid-palate is a lovely bag of spicy bonbons, nougat and peaches. Really long, rich and velvety with a lick of mouthwatering lemon curd in the aftertaste.

White

Trefethen Family Vineyards, Chardonnay, Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley, California 2018

Platinum, 97 points

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A delicious, enticing Chardonnay which draws you into the glass with its fresh lemon rind and pith characters, balanced by a touch of perfectly judged oak sweetness. Very textural, showing strident fruit and a juicy finish.

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Moretti Omero, Sagrantino di Montefalco, Umbria 2016

Best in Show, 97 points

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If you’ve never tried a Sagrantino di Montefalco, you’re in for a surprise – or a shock. This indigenous Umbrian speciality is hugely characterful, and perfectly illustrates Italy’s almost limitless capacity for wine intrigue. It’s a dark wine, and this oaked example smells brooding, almost smoky but complex, too: the smell of the hills in autumn. It’s deep and fiercely intense as well as amply tannic – but not harsh for all that, since the wild forest plum fruits are sweet and sumptuous, and those tannins bond happily both to the fruits as well as to the wine’s glycerol and oak chamfering. It is, in sum, a complete original – but our judges loved it, so there’s a good chance that readers might too.

C.V.N.E., Cune, Gran Reserva, Rioja 2013

Gold, 95 points

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Exotic black fruit and mocha nose. Palate is well structured, compact and rich with well-integrated oak, gentle tannins and notes of caramel and orange. Appetising, impressively long black fruit finish. A superb release.

Grgich Hills Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California 2016

Silver, 93 points

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Sweet black cherry, black olive and charred red meat with graceful, enticing aromas of flowers, blackberries and blackcurrants. Clove and tobacco finish.

Chêne Bleu, Héloïse, IGP Vaucluse, Rhône 2012

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Opulent aromas of cassis, briar and raspberry compote, then on to a palate of lifted elderflower and a white pepper finish.

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Lugana’s remarkable longevity is down to its soil, climatic conditions and human ingenuity. Made from Turbiana, a famously acidic variety, the grape’s characteristics have found their perfect match here, where the soil is mainly clayey with some sandier areas, and the climate is tempered by Lake Garda. Agronomy and winegrowing techniques have been perfected through studies and research in this region over the past 15 years.

Today, the area’s historic vineyards are almost all family run and average 25 years of age. Lugana exhibits an acidic-savoury vein and a structure that can withstand the attacks of time by metamorphosing, gaining an impressive nobility as it matures.

In 2002 the forefather of Italian wine criticism, Luigi Veronelli, acknowledged its potential for evolving: ‘Drink your Lugana young, very young, and you’ll enjoy its freshness. Drink it two or three years old and you’ll enjoy its fullness. Drink it after a decade and you’ll be astounded by its complex authoritativeness’.

Cellarworthy

Since the 1990s, several producers have taken a chance on this grape, which back then was notorious for its difficult acidity, and they began archiving old vintages. Ambra Tiraboschi at Ca’ Lojera winery says, ‘After building our underground cellar in 1997, we began laying down a lot of our bottles. Right from the beginning, our intention was to demonstrate that Lugana is cellarworthy. Several years later we can see we were right; our archive bottles are often used by the Lugana Consorzio to provide proof of its ageworthiness, especially abroad, where people request vertical tastings as a matter of routine to evaluate how a particular label has evolved’.

The Consorzio has promoted older Lugana – for example, a journalism contest in the early 2000s called ‘Stelle del Garda, le età del Lugana’ was held to help educate wine writers about Lugana’s talent for withstanding the test of time. In 2020 came a memorable retrospective, ‘Le età del Lugana’ (‘The ages of Lugana’), the high point of the festivities marking the 30th anniversary of the Lugana Consorzio.

The Gran Priorato di Lugana consists of around 60 producers, technicians and oenologists from the zone, and played a part in Lugana’s history. Founded in 1980, it has worked to make Lugana’s voice heard, such as through the annual oenology contest, Vinalia. As a conscious ambassador for the area, it has helped to promote Lugana, albeit with a lower profile than the far more complex, structured efforts of the Consorzio.

Davide Camoni, a laboratory technician, belongs to the Gran Priorato and is also on the Consorzio’s technical board; his study published recently in a scientific journal looked closely at how Lugana evolves. Camoni says, ‘We investigated the various indicators of Lugana’s longevity by studying 13 vintages of the same Lugana label, spanning 2005 to 2017. We found that Lugana effectively has a ‘third life’ – Lugana’s structure and polyphenolic complexity make it suited to ageing, as do several norisoprenoids, fatty acids and benzylic esters. Glycosylated aromas and perceptible terpenoids make up Lugana’s aromatic treasure chest, capable of evolving and enduring through time’.

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Tasting the wines of Lugana:

Ca’ Lojera, Lugana Superiore, 2001 13%

Founded by Franco and Ambra Tiraboschi in 1992, Ca’ Lojera is one of the wineries that helped shape the denomination’s history. Large barrels for a 20 year-old wine that’s remarkable for its vital savoury-acidic combination, its style is saline, iodine-tinged and smoky, with ripe yellow fruit. Its enveloping, lively intensity is irresistible. 92

RRP £27 / $35

La Rifra, Il Bepi, Lugana, Riserva 2014 13%


A family business set up in the 1970s, run by brothers Claudio and Luigino Fraccaroli on 17 hectares. From their oldest, 40-year-old vineyard comes this Riserva, named after a forebear. Balsamic, citrus aromas lead to a palate lifted by fresh sapidity: still young, its future is bright. 90

RRP £11 / $18

Podere Selva Capuzza, Menasasso, Lugana Riserva 2016 13.5%


This historic winery has seen 103 harvests; now overseen by the family’s fourth generation under Luca Formentini, it’s named after its hilltop position. The 38 year-old vineyard, Selva produces this Riserva, with just 5% aged in barriques. Notes of saffron, herbs, white pepper are harmonious, and the wine is taut with freshness and savouriness. A long life ahead. 92

RRP £28.50 / $38

Tenute Roveglia, Vigne di Catullo, Lugana Riserva 2016 13%

Tenute Roveglia’s roots stretch back to 1404 when it was owned by the Roveglio family; the Zweifel-Azzone family took over centuries later. Sixty-year-old vineyards give us this Riserva, fermented completely in steel. It has a citrussy olfactory profile, with acacia and ripe tropical fruit. Charismatic, structured and taut, it has a sapid verve that’s sure to last. 92

RRP £19 / $24.50

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More on the Lugana wine region:

Five things to know about Lugana

Lugana’s new generation: Four stories

Food pairing ideas for Lugana wines

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Coronavirus: Be sure to check the latest travel restrictions and refund policies before booking any trips abroad.  

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As part of a revenge strike against the Spanish Armada, England’s queen Elizabeth I sent Francis Drake to sack Andalucía. He brought back some 3,000 barrels of ‘sack’ (Sherry) and it was an instant hit in the royal court.

So began a love affair that continues to this day. Sales hit a peak in the 19th century with many British merchants marrying into wine- producing families, thus creating ‘Sherry dynasties’. Anglo names are still seen on some of the region’s best bottles.

The Sherry trade made the small city of Jerez an economic powerhouse, which is reflected in its grand and varied architecture. Jerez today is quite different, though: it has resisted globalisation, favouring the conservative comfort of tradition and a quiet life.

Things move slowly here. People stop to talk, to have a drink. While Jerez’s aversion to change arguably stymies its progress, it also preserves its storied, deeply cultural past. The result for those visiting is an enchanting experience, where engaging with its highlights is an activity done in the company of locals.

Despite the importance of Sherry, it’s not all about wine. The city’s claim to be one of Spain’s major flamenco hotspots is ratified at the annual Festival de Jerez every February, where the latest, greatest productions are premiered.

Flamenco is a quotidian concern, too: Sherry bars noted for their performances are not seasonal tourists traps. Friendly local patrons stand cheek to jowl year round, sipping cheap – but excellent – dry wine, while braying their praise at spirited artists on tiny stages.

These traditional Sherry bars are called ‘tabancos’, a portmanteau of the words ‘tavern’ and ‘tobacco’.

As local Sherry expert Juan Bosco Trigo Caparrini explains: ‘Tabancos were originally “half taverns”, where you drank and ate tapas, but also bought tobacco and wine, often in bulk, to take home.’

While this is rarely so nowadays, the more traditional tabancos still serve Sherry directly from the barrel. There is, however, a slowly growing number of establishments deftly pairing food – from tapas to fine-dining cuisine – with this very special wine. Here are 10 of my favourite places to drink Sherry in Jerez.

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Ten of the best Jerez Sherry bars

Albores

• Calle Consistorio, 12

There’s something flashy about the slick interiors of this see-and-be-seen establishment. But it’s not all show: a carefully curated and rather extensive Sherry list will sate the most curious wine lovers, and an upmarket menu puts Andalucía’s prized almadraba tuna front and centre. A large seating area outside is one of Jerez’s best spots for people watching.

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Bodegas Tradición

• Calle Cordobeses, 3

‘Some of the best VORS [Vinum Optimum Rare Signatum, translated as Very Old Rare Sherries] I’ve ever tried,’ says local expert Juan Bosco Trigo Caparrini. Indeed, all the Sherries here have been given a VOS or VORS designation. The place to drink them is on the cosy patio as part of a tour, the highlight of which is a remarkable art collection. Works by Velázquez, Goya and El Greco all grace the bodega walls.

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Despacho de Vinos La Bodeguita

• Avenida San Juan Bosco, 5

La Bodeguita’s owner also has a vineyard – Viña La Constancia – out of town and uses this micro wine shop and tabanco to sell its wares. The Sherries span the full gamut of styles and everything’s keenly priced. Try the standout oloroso straight from barrel and then ask them to fill up a bottle for the gentle saunter back to your hotel.

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La Carboná

• Calle San Francisco de Paula, 2

Best known for its knowledgeable team’s food and Sherry pairings, this former winery-turned- restaurant is a popular spot with well-heeled locals. Top-quality wines are matched to not- inexpensive set menus, with Sherry in nearly every dish. Chef Javier Muñoz Soto, son of the owners, trained in food mecca Cantabria and returned with a masterful grasp of fish and meat dishes, such as palo cortado-glazed veal sweetbreads with celeriac.

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Tabanco El Pasaje

• Calle Santa María, 8

Twice a day, you can hear the snap of metal and leather on wood as a flamenco dancer (along with his or her cadre of musicians) performs a sizzling display on the bar’s corner stage. It gets so packed that you may be forced to watch the beguiling performance via a huge mirror deliberately placed behind the bar. Order a little tumbler of manzanilla for €1 and pair it with any of the super-fresh seafood tapas.

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Tabanco La Pandilla

• Calle Valientes, 14

One of the most traditional tabancos in Jerez, La Pandilla dates back to the 1930s. Following a period of closure, it’s now open again with owners keen on maintaining its film-set charm and bullfighting heritage. That’s why you’ll find old posters and other memorabilia decorating its well-worn walls. Its food offer is more progressive, though: try pairing the tuna sirloin toast with a glass of sweet and sticky Pedro Ximénez.

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Tabanco El Guitarrón de San Pedro

• Calle Bizcocheros, 16

Locals swear by this backstreet tabanco, where the savviest drinkers come to enjoy palo cortado, a rare style of Sherry with near- mystical status. The bar’s highly knowledgeable owner, Mireia Dot Rodríguez, is only too happy to guide you through her exhaustive selection. The bare stone walls and dim lighting may lend an unassuming feel, but on the weekends it’s abuzz with discerning (but invariably friendly) locals.

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Tabanco Las Banderillas

• Calle Caballeros, 12

Another food-forward tabanco, Las Banderillas’ exceptionally friendly staff serve much of its Sherry straight from the barrel. Try a dry, salty manzanilla with some Ibérico ham. Bullfighting is venerated here, with one of the seating options resembling a burladero: the name of the shelter where bullfighters take cover before coming out into the ring.

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Tabanco Plateros

• Calle Algarve, 35

Sherry fans and novices alike will be thankful for El Plateros’ wine flights, which span dry and delicate fino through to dark and sweet PX, via oloroso, cream and amontillado. Careful though – they don’t scrimp on the measures here. In the evening, the kitchen opens at about 8pm, offering a wide selection of paper-plate tapas treats. Don’t miss the superlative chicharrones especiales: finely sliced crispy pork belly.

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Tabanco San Pablo

• Calle San Pablo, 12

Possibly the most characterful of them all, San Pablo has all the attributes that charm: old wooden doors lead into a double-height space decorated with vintage vineyard memorabilia. The lighting is strangely office-like (bright white), but that matters little when the house fino – straight from the barrel – is the best in town. It’s set on a pretty residential street, so you may be reminded to keep it down when you leave.

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The best white rums for cocktails can be delicate, fragrant and often characterful, providing the perfect base for drinks such as the Mojito, Daiquiri, Long Island Iced Tea, Piña Colada and El Presidente. Although the lightest of all rum styles, white rum can still be packed with character, especially if a portion is distilled in pot rather than column stills.

The most affordable examples of white rum are typically unaged, drawn directly from the still. However other types of white rum can be aged in cask – or be made up of a blend of various ages – which are then charcoal-filtered before bottling to remove any colour.

Aged white rums are generally more expensive than unaged, but they can add more complex flavours to your cocktails – especially in simple mixes such as the Daiquiri, which allow the character of the spirit to shine. While a pricier aged white rum is good for special occasion cocktails, a cheaper, crowd-pleasing unaged version is perfect for parties and punches.

White rum is just one part of the rum canon, so if you’d like to find out more about the other types of rum – golden, dark, spiced and overproof – read our guide: Learn about rum.

The best white rums for cocktails:

Bacardí Carta Blanca

Bacardí is the original Daquiri rum, the cocktail named after the town where American engineer Jennings Cox first combined Carta Blanca, lime juice and sugar in 1898. Sweet tropical aromas with banana and coconut and a touch of peppery spice, lead to a light, creamy palate with notes of tropical fruit, and a vanilla toffee edge. Lingering spiciness on the finish. Alc 37.5%

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Havana Club Añejo 3 Year Old

This Cuban bar staple has been aged in ex-bourbon casks and then filtered to remove the colour – although there is still a subtle yellow hue to it. Round and smooth with licks of citrus, cream and spice, this is a more characterful alternative to Bacardí Carta Blanca that’s ideal for using in a Cuba Libre or Mojito. Alc 40%

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Bounty White Rum

St Lucia’s favourite rum brand, made from Guyanese molasses, Bounty White Rum is aged for two years in ex-Bourbon casks before being filtered to remove the colour. A creamy, coconut-edged scent is followed by a smooth yet crisp mouthfeel with a touch of sweet citrus. As good in a Daquiri as it is in a Mojito. Alc 40%

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Plantation 3 Stars White Rum

A lively blend of unaged spirits from Barbados and Jamaica, two- to three-year-old spirit from Trinidad, and a splash of Jamaican 10-year-old, this boasts green, lime-like notes with a touch of cinnamon and clove spice. Colour from the aged components in the blend is removed by carbon filtration. Alc 41.2%

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That Boutique-y Rum Company Signature Blend #1

That Boutique-y Rum Company is a British brand focusing on sourcing top-notch rums from around the world. This is its first permanent addition to the range, and is specifically created for Daiquiris. It’s a blend of unaged rum from Martinique and aged rum from Jamaica, combining the zesty freshness of the former with the rich tropical notes of the latter: pear, pineapple, oak, grass, citrus fruit, then touches of olive and ginger. Alc 42%

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Chairman’s Reserve White Label Rum

A blend of three- to four-year-old St Lucian rums from both copper pot and Coffey stills aged in American oak, this white rum has a delicate banana note on the nose, leading to punchy, slightly funky banana, lime and coconut flavours with a creamy mouthfeel and smooth finish. Alc 43%

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You might also like:

Top rums for an Old Fashioned

The best rums for a Mai Tai

Best spiced rums

Best wine with pizza: All-rounders

• Barbera
• Gamay
• Prosecco 
• Sangiovese
• Frappato
• Fiano
• Nero d’Avola

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Search Decanter’s expert wine reviews here

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Pizza is one of Italy’s great culinary gifts to the world, and traditional pizza-twirling in Naples was recently enshrined by UNESCO as a skill of intangible cultural heritage.

Beer is sometimes seen as a classic go-to for pizza night, but there are many mouthwatering wines that can work brilliantly with a range of toppings if you’re planning to celebrate ‘the art of the pizzaiuolo’.

Wine with pizza: The basics

For a classic, wood-fired Napoletana pizza with tomato, mozzarella and simple toppings then think about a wine with good acidity and lots of bright fruit that will balance nicely against the acidity of the tomato.

If you’re keen to go for Italian reds, then that could be Barbera d’Asti, light styles of Sangiovese or even Frappato from Sicily.

You could also consider Gamay, either from Beaujolais or from other corners of the wine world, such as Oregon or Stellenbosch.

Pizza sets a relaxed tone and pairings can work best if you pick a wine ‘that isn’t trying too hard’, according to Helen Johannesen, a sommelier who runs the ‘Helen’s’ wine shop joined to Los Angeles pizza emporium Jon & Vinny’s.

‘I love pairing lighter reds like Gamay, rosé made from interesting varietals like Montepulciano, and even skin-contact wines (aka orange wines),’ she told Decanter.com in 2019.

‘Obviously you can ball out with some killer Barolo or lusciously rustic Rosso di Montepulciano, but I think the ease and comfort might be lost.’

Be mindful that bold tannins in wine and acidity in food can clash, as Matthieu Longuère MS points out in a different context in this Decanter article on matching red wine and fish.

Prosecco: Sparkling wine with pizza?

‘I enjoy bubbles with pizza,’ said Emily O’Hare, sommelier, wine writer and Decanter contributor based in Siena, Tuscany.

‘Col fondo Prosecco works a treat,’ she said, suggesting Malibran and Ca’ dei Zago as producers to look out for.

O’Hare, who also runs retreats and courses accredited by the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, added, ‘Pizza is chewy (the dough) and creamy (the cheese) and topped with acid (the tomato sauce), so something crisp and textured and savoury makes the combination so refreshing.

‘It’s important to feel refreshed so as to keep on going with the eating.’

Wine with pepperoni or sausage pizza

A spicier topping such as pepperoni will dominate the pizza’s flavour and may be able to handle a wine with a bit more attitude.

A juicy Grenache/Syrah blend could be great, but watch out for too much tannin and oak.

In Tuscany, O’Hare said, ‘If I stayed regional and red I’d look for a young Chianti or Chianti Classico Annata and put it in the fridge or outside to chill, and I’d go for a pizza with sausage meat to handle the more tannic wine choice.’

Fruit-driven styles of Nero d’Avola, particularly from Sicily, have become a mainstay on several pizzeria wine lists in the UK and have the weight to pair with meat-based pizzas – although some poorer-made examples can lack balance, especially if served too warm.

Wine with pineapple pizza

Adding pineapple to pizza is a controversial topic, as Iceland’s president discovered in 2017.

But if you’re a fan then you could look to white wines with good acidity and enough body to hand the flavours. This Fiano from Australia’s Riverina region in New South Wales could be interesting, for example.

‘White’ pizza with ricotta or mushroom

White pizzas change the nature of the pairing, because the acidity of the tomato is no longer such an issue.

Fresh, dry white wines can work a treat. ‘I love having our ‘white lightning’ pizza, with pickled jalapeños & ricotta, with white wines grown in the volcanic soils of Sicily or Campania,’ said Johannesen.

It doesn’t have to be white wine, however. ‘My favourite pizza we make is the ‘super shroom’, that is a mushroom pie highlighted by rachera cheese,’ said Johannesen.

‘It’s drops a slightly funky beat, begging for some high acid Carignan or Zinfandel, or even a pet nat rosé with a tiny touch of residual sugar.’

Wine with pizza and lots of garlic

Garlic can be a very strong flavour. If you’re combining this with basil on a pizza, how about experimenting with skin-contact white wines, such as those made from Vermentino? They would ordinarily match up well with green pesto.

With so many toppings involved, wine and pizza can be a great avenue to explore and experiment with new pairing ideas.

If you’re looking for some of the basics on food and wine matching, refresh yourself on Karen McNeil’s 10 rules of food and wine pairing.

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Best wine with pizza: Ideas for wines to look for

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This article was first published in 2019 and has been updated in February 2021, including with new wine reviews and extra comments from Emily O’Hare.

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Chianti Classico: A glowing future and 12 wines to try

Cheese and wine matching: The ultimate guide

More food and wine pairing ideas on Decanter.com

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