Wines

Lockdown has produced few benefits for businesses apart from those that can be conducted by Zoom or ordered online but it has been a nightmare for the winemakers of Santorini.

Because they are expensive to produce, Santorini’s mineral-rich wines are primarily exported for restaurant lists in Europe and the US.

In 2020 those exports plummeted by 80%, reflecting a particularly tough period for the hospitality trade in general amid the Covid crisis.

Santorini is a semi-desert island and its grapes are wound into kouloura (baskets) on the ground for protection from the elements. With mechanised harvesting of kouloura impossible, picking the grapes is both back-breaking and expensive.

So you will find comparatively few Santorini wines in supermarkets – even on Santorini.

Most bottles are bought by restaurants in Greece and the wider world, where a high price is factored in. But most restaurants have hardly been open in 2020 and so almost no one has been buying.

Venetsanos, a winery perched dramatically on a cliff above Santorini’s main harbour, has seen its sales collapse to 4% of what they were in 2019, from 14,208 bottles exported per year down to a mere 558 in 2020.

Petros Vamvakousis, manager of Venetsanos, said, ‘This is a total disaster and it has happened to all wine makers on the island.’

There is an acute irony here. Up until 2020, Santorini’s wine industry had a very different problem: not enough vineyards to meet demand.

Winemakers had just begun replanting the nearby island of Thirasia (part of Santorini until the great eruption of 1650 BC), which counts as Santorini PDO terroir so that levels of production could be increased to meet demand. Now the wine industry on Santorini has the opposite problem: overproduction.

Gaia, a mainland company which also operates an idyllic beachside winery on Santorini, registered a 56% drop in island exports between 2019 and 2020.

Co-founder Yiannis Paraskevopoulos is well-placed to see how the cost of harvesting by hand has been a big factor in driving Santorini wine into restaurants, because Gaia’s winery on the mainland in Nemea grows grapes on trellises rather than kouloura.

‘If we focus on the 2019 prices, the price of harvesting Santorini Assyrtiko was close to €5 per kilo whereas our Nemea Agiorgitiko was roughly 10 times less, 50 cents per kilo,’ he said. ‘Even the most expensive wine grapes on the mainland never exceeded €1 per kilo.’

Failure to sell to the many closed restaurants in Europe and America means that Santorini’s wineries are approaching the 2021 harvest with unusually high stocks left over from the 2020 harvest.

‘And given a relatively high yield on the island these days, grape prices are expected to plunge dramatically,’ said Paraskevopoulos.

‘This may have a very negative impact on old or small vine-growers. They may even abandon their vines, since they will consider that it is not economically sustainable carrying on. A very grim perspective.’

Ironically, wine production on Santorini was deliberately encouraged by Athens and the EU in the 1990s as an alternative to fall back on if lucrative tourism ever failed.

Tourism on Santorini has been its main source of income for decades and it was hoped that promoting Santorini’s vineyards would make sure the island didn’t plough up every field for hotels. So a highly successful wine industry was developed – only for both this and tourism to be laid low by the worldwide lockdown of 2020.

The Wine Museum, an ancient venture by the Koutsoyannopoulos family, saw 70% fewer visitors than normal during lockdown.

Glass half full: Reasons for optimism

Not everything is gloom. Yannis Valambous, who set up the chic Vassaltis Vineyard in 2015, said 2020 has been a strange year for everyone on Santorini.

‘With restaurants closed for the best part of the year and tourism drastically reduced, our main markets have all but disappeared, but that is not say that everything has been bad.

‘For one thing, we were able to give our few visitors in 2020 a more unique experience. The staff at Vassaltis felt that those who made the trip to our winery were more genuinely interested in wine, unlike the large coach parties that used to be off-loaded from cruise ships,’ he said.

‘Secondly, the whole industry on Santorini has been able to get a breather, to catch up with a demand that has skyrocketed over the past decade. We were able to replenish our stocks and create better wines by using the luxury of time, something we didn’t have during the past years.’

Markos Kafouros, president of the Santo Wines Cooperative, added. ‘Yes sales have dropped dramatically. There is uncertainty about the future, but optimism too that vaccinations will shield us from the virus and help the market to recover.

‘Santo Wines works with 100 smaller producers on the island. Because of last year’s excellent harvest and because of lockdown our stock of wines is unusually high. Fortunately, Santorini wines age very well. The critical point now is how soon we will be able to return to “normality”.’

Santorini has endured many disasters. It was formed by a cataclysmic volcanic eruption that blew the island into picturesque pieces in Neolithic times. In the 1950s its industries were devastated by earthquakes so it turned to tourism and became the defining image of the Greek tourist board.

Now its wine industry is under threat from a year of lockdowns but it’s likely to survive. Santorini always does.

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The Champagne 2020 vintage is the third high quality and very warm harvest in a row; a trilogy of vintages that resembles 1988, ’89 and 90, in terms of quality, but picked much earlier. 

Gloriously ripe but balanced and practically disease free, 2020’s potential was recognised at the time of the harvest.

But eight months on, a Zoom tasting of the vins clairs (still base wines) from the 15 top growers in the Les Mains du Terroir de Champagne group has given another chance to assess its quality and character.  

With one of the wettest winters and the warmest in more than a century, bud-burst came early in the first week of April and, after two hot dry months by the end of May, the harvest was already running more than two weeks in advance of the 10-year average.

Jean-Pierre Vazart, of Vazart-Coquart based in Chouilly, said, ‘A common issue of the past three harvests has been the heat during the last weeks of ripening. In both 2019 and 2020, heat peaks caused the vines to close down, temporarily halting the rapid ripening process and making it difficult to select the optimum time to start picking.’

Géraldine Lacourte, of Lacourte-Godbillon, in Ecueil near Reims, agreed. ‘The challenge was to wait for the right harvest date,’ she said. ‘During the past few [very warm] harvests, just checking the sugar levels has not been enough. You need to taste the grapes in the vineyard to check the seeds are ripe and the right phenolic maturity has been reached.’

Tasting the vins clairs, you can see the ripe fruit in evidence with many of the group picking at potential alcohol levels well above 11 degrees.

And several of the group have blocked malolactic fermentation – that softens Champagne’s natural acidity – in their wines from this harvest.



The Gatinois Pinot Noir, that comes from two of their best south-facing plots — Bonotte and Vauregnier – was picked at 11.2 degrees potential alcohol, said winemaker Louis Cheval. ‘That corresponds to a high maturity, but even with this level of ripeness – that brings a wonderful generosity and an intense fruitiness – with Aÿ Pinot Noir you also keep something really crisp, sharp and a freshness that gives a delicate balance.’

He added, ‘Comparing it to 2019 and 2018, I would say that 2020 stands in between the two in terms of style. There’s a hint more of freshness in 2019 and even more density and maturity in 2018.’

Vazart’s vins clairs sample, picked with a potential alcohol of 11.5 degrees, is the blend for his Special Club vintage, and ‘to preserve freshness’ he hasn’t put the wine through malolactic, as he usually does.

Showing refreshingly tangy fruit, with ripe citrus notes, there’s also a touch of bitterness on the finish, which he said is a sign of its good ageing potential.

He put 2020 ahead of 2018, which was ‘picked a little too ripe’, and also 2019, partly because they have been learning how to deal with these significantly warmer summers at harvest time. ‘When to pick is key.’

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From journalist to wine buyer…How did that happen?

I got a taste for wine in Argentina and was determined to get into wine writing. In London, I got my first experience in financial journalism, did WSET exams, talked to a lot of people and finally (it took five years) found a position on a wine and spirits trade magazine.

Being a wine journalist was great, but I was fascinated by the dark arts of the sommelier – my experience in this was key to becoming a wine buyer.

I interviewed Gérard Basset who told me that he had started ‘late’ at 29, and this galvanised me into action. Sommelier supremo Luke Robertson was good enough to take me on and train me. It gave me a real feel for what people actually want to drink, and what they are comfortable spending, which is really what wine buying is all about.

What’s the best thing about your job?

The people. Wine is all about sharing. It attracts a wonderful community, from winemakers to restaurateurs or retailers to consumers – there is a lot of passion. And there’s the constant learning. You will never know all there is to know about wine, and you must embrace this fact to enjoy it. You need to read extensively, taste widely and keep pushing the limits of your knowledge. The worst thing is the spreadsheets. And dental bills! If you taste wine for a living you need to visit your hygienist very regularly.

What’s the most common misconception about your job?

That I taste wine all day. The buying period is concentrated across a few months of the year, and the rest is about building a route to market: trying to communicate the winemaker’s philosophy to clients. I love joining the dots between people, be it a Michelin-star restaurant and the ‘right’ Champagne house or talking people through their first taste of skin-contact wine.

Your greatest moment?

One that stands out was a dinner at Les Crayères in Reims hosted by then Mumm chef de cave Didier Mariotti. It was a beautiful June evening and we sipped a Cuvée R Lalou from 1966. I had never had anything like it. The wine was a deep gold and perfectly still but once in a while, a bubble would break on the surface.

And your greatest mistake?

When I first moved to Paris, a friend put me in touch with the head sommelier at Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée. He offered to show me his cellar, but I was really broke and due to start a paying-the-bills job on that day. I should have gone, and trusted that I would find another job.

How’s your work-life balance?

After working as a sommelier, there’s not a job in the world with hours that could scare me! The pace of restaurant life is unsustainable for many in the long term – pregnant sommeliers are still a rarity. My work-life balance is pretty good now. My four-year-old makes sure I never get a lie-in, but I can have dinner at 7.30pm rather than 1.30am.

The best advice you’ve had?

Always take on new challenges, preferably ones that scare you a little… And never brush your teeth straight after tasting: it’ll strip the enamel.

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Fionnuala came to London from Buenos Aires with a degree in History & Spanish and the intention of writing. After a stint as a financial reporter, she secured a job as a wine and spirits journalist, then became a sommelier working in four restaurant openings including Pollen Street Social and Oblix (the first restaurant in The Shard). She is currently the wine buyer for La Rousse Wines in Dublin.

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Few spirits match Scotch whisky’s heritage – distilleries have honed their craft over decades and, in some cases, centuries. Now, new whisky makers are springing up throughout Scotland, with the wee players forging a path that sets them apart from the larger labels.

Inspired by 1990s pioneer Isle of Arran distillery and North America’s craft brewing and craft distilling revolutions in the noughties, British craft distillers started their own movement – but first, they had to campaign for the authorities to issue distillers’ licences for equipment below a capacity of 1,800 litres, a threshold originally implemented in the 19th century to prevent small-batch bootleg production. The first sub-1,800-litre licences were finally granted in 2009. In contrast, British craft brewers got a tax break in 2002, when Gordon Brown was chancellor.

Since then, rising disposable income in China, India and other emerging markets has driven demand for existing whisky brands and created space for newcomers, while the renaissance in traditional markets like the US has also fuelled the thirst for the best whiskies. Closer to home, British consumers interested in the provenance of their food have become equally picky about their drinks.

A newly made spirit must spend three years in casks before it can be called Scotch, with most older distilleries releasing their liquid after 10, 12 or more years. New-wave distillers are using their operation’s size to their advantage, distilling their spirit more slowly to create a dram that can be enjoyed at a younger age. Bigger distilleries, meanwhile, need whisky to be made quickly and in larger quantities, leading to a coarser spirit that requires longer ageing before it’s drinkable.

Low and slow distilling

‘The way people make whisky has moved on in the past couple of decades,’ explains Annabel Thomas, who quit her job as a management consultant in London in 2013 to set up Nc’nean distillery at her family’s farm on the Morvern peninsula on the west coast. She started distilling in 2017 and last year set a record for a maiden single malt when her first bottle sold for £41,004 in a charity auction. Her distillery is named after Neachneohain, the Gaelic queen of spirits.

‘[The late] master distiller Jim Swan helped us create two “recipes” for our whiskies,’ says Thomas. ‘One is for a “young”, lighter and fruiter whisky, and the other is for an “older” whisky, which we’ll age for at least 10 years.’

Nc’nean’s young whisky uses a clearer wort – the sugar-rich liquid made by soaking malted barley in water, which is then fermented and distilled – with its mash sitting for longer to develop more flavour. It uses two yeasts for fermentation to create fruitier flavours, ferments more slowly and for longer, and has a higher cut point during distillation to capture the fruity esters produced during fermentation.

Thomas then selects casks that have been filled fewer times, leaving them with more ‘active’ wood to remove impurities and add flavour. She likes shaved, toasted and re-charred wine casks and ex-bourbon barrels for her young recipe.

Sustainability underpins Thomas’ plan for Nc’Nean’s spirits. ‘Growing barley for whisky has a big environmental impact, so we buy from organic farms,’ she says. ‘It’s up to two times more expensive, but sustainability is important to me, as it is to lots of people who drink our whisky.’

Once he’s in his new distillery, Miller expects output will be some 12 times higher. He also wants to continue experimenting, testing different crystal, chocolate and peated malted barleys for his whiskies.

Eden Mill is part of a Fife revival, alongside Daftmill, Kingsbarns, Inchdairnie and Lindores Abbey – home to the earliest written reference to distilled malt spirit in Scotland, called ‘aqua vitae’, recorded in 1494. Previously, Fife only had Cameronbridge, Scotland’s largest grain distillery, where Diageo makes components for Bell’s, Haig Club and Johnnie Walker.

From field to glass

While many newer distilleries release young malts, Arbikie has opted for a more traditional route. The distillery made its first spirit in 2014 and doesn’t expect to release its single malt until it’s 18 years old.

Instead, Arbikie has focused on turning potatoes and wheat grown on the Stirling family’s farm near Montrose into gin and vodka, with botanicals including juniper, chilli, lemongrass and honey also nurtured. It’s turned peas into carbon-negative gin and vodka – absorbing more greenhouse gases during growing than are emitted during production – and the family has also revived an older crop, producing Scotland’s first rye whisky for more than a century.

‘We went back to our dad’s old seed diaries and looked at which crops he’d grown,’ says Iain Stirling, one of four brothers running the distillery. ‘Our rye whisky has gone down well in countries like Canada and the US, which are used to drinking rye whiskies, and the Scandinavian markets.’

As his single malt ages, Stirling is returning to his father’s records to experiment with older barley varieties, which could add further points of distinction to his Scotch. Arbikie is also planting oak trees to make its own barrels.

‘I’ll be long gone by the time they’re harvested,’ laughs Stirling. ‘But it’s all part of our plan to build a distillery that will endure for generations.’

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New wave Scotch distilleries: The bottles to try

Arbikie 1794 Highland Rye Single Grain

It’s still Scotch whisky, but made from rye instead of malted barley. Spicy nutmeg, woodsmoke and soda bread on the nose lead into fresh lemon, sweet brown sugar and more nutmeg on the palate. Distinctively spicy. Alc 48%

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Eden Mill Hipflask Series No16 Single Malt

Heavy on the lemons and oats on the nose, with subtle woodsmoke lending support from the ex-Islay whisky refill casks. Plenty of warming nutmeg and cinnamon spices play across the tongue, with vanilla wrapping around more of those lemons. Alc 47%

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Glasgow 1770 Peated Single Malt

Using peat from the east coast produces sweet and floral aromas, in contrast to Islay’s heavier ‘TCP’ notes. Its rich mahogany tones hint at the redcurrant and cranberry on the complex nose. Impressive integration between the chewy tannins and the rich barbecued meat flavours. Alc 46%

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Kingsbarns Dream to Dram Single Malt

Barley from Fife and old wine casks from Portugal come together to produce a Lowland malt that has subtle lemon, honey and porridge oat on the nose and much more depth on the palate. Tropical pineapple, sweet vanilla and a creamy finish. Alc 46%

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Nc’Nean Organic Single Malt

Made using organic Scottish barley and aged in old wine casks and bourbon barrels. Light caramel, runny honey and citrus on the nose lead into lemon curd, rich tea biscuits and vanilla on the palate. Light on its feet, yet rich in flavour. Alc 46%

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Where do calories in wine come from?

Calories in wine and other drinks can come from sugar content – depending on the style – but alcohol itself is a major contributor.

‘If you are looking to limit your calorie intake, you are right to focus on the alcohol content of wine, as this is by far the most significant determinant of its calorific content,’ wrote Beverley Blanning MW in response to a Decanter reader query in 2016.

‘Alcohol weighs in at a hefty seven calories per gram, which is only two calories fewer than pure fat.’

You might hear calories in wine referred to as ’empty calories’, because they are not considered to have any nutritional value.

So can wine make you gain weight?

‘Wine can cause weight gain because it is a concentrated source of calories, even if it feels light to the taste,’ said Blanning, who has contributed to The Oxford Companion to Wine on wine and health.

Her comments followed a reader query from Chicago-based Maria O’Connell on links between calories in wine and alcohol level, and who also asked whether Champagne is a good option for limiting calorie intake.

‘Champagne can be a good choice, because it is often relatively low in alcohol compared to other dry whites – albeit residual sugar levels would also be a factor,’ Blanning said.

‘Generally, cooler-climate whites will also have lower alcohol levels and therefore fewer calories per glass.’

It’s also important to think about serving size, however.

Blanning added, ‘A dry Sherry such as Manzanilla is a fortified wine, so will be high in calories, but as it is often drunk in smaller volumes, the calories consumed could end up being fewer than a lower alcohol, unfortified wine.’

From a broader health point-of-view, it’s also important to take into account guidelines on how much wine should be consumed.

How many calories are there in a bottle of wine?

Blanning recommended using this formula to calculate the number of grams of alcohol in a bottle or glass of wine:

volume (ml) x alcohol (ABV %) x 8


1000

‘Multiplying this answer by seven will give you the approximate calorie content,’ she wrote.

‘Using this model, a standard 750ml bottle of wine with an abv of 13.5% would have approximately 567 calories. Guideline total intake for women in the UK is 2,000 calories daily, and 2,500 calories for men, according to the National Health Service (NHS).’

Health professionals and charities often try to put the numbers in context by equating the amount of calories in alcoholic drinks to other foods, from chocolate and ice cream to fish fingers.

‘Drinking 4 bottles of wine a month adds up to a yearly consumption of around 27,000kcal, which is equivalent to eating 48 Big Macs per year,’ said the NHS in a guide to calories in alcohol, last updated in 2020.

Calories in a glass of wine: Online calorie counting tools and advice

There are various online tools that can help to give you a rough guide, too.

The Drinkaware charity in the UK has an alcohol unit and a calorie calculator, for example.

According to the NHS, a ‘standard’ 175ml glass of wine at 12% abv has around 133 calories. A 50ml glass of 17.5% abv fortified wine has around 77 calories, its guidance says.

In the US, the newly published federal dietary guidelines for 2020-2025 defines a standard drink as five fluid ounces of wine (around 150ml) at 12% abv. It says drinkers should expect this to contain around 120 calories.

It also recommends using the US health department’s online calorie calculator for alcoholic drinks, ranging from beer to dessert wine to cocktails.

What about residual sugar?

Blanning said, ‘One other point to bear in mind is that a dry wine may not always be the best choice for a low-calorie option.

‘A sweeter wine with low alcohol (like a German Kabinett Riesling) could be lower in calories than a high-alcohol dry white, because the residual sugar is a less-concentrated source of carbohydrate than alcohol, at four calories per gram.’

Labelling and the politics of calories in wine

There has been lots of debate about calorie labelling on alcoholic drinks, from discussion around whether it should be mandatory or voluntary to differing opinions on how best to do it.

The UK’s Royal Society for Public Health (RSPH) has previously accused the alcoholic drinks industry of ‘hiding’ on the issue of nutrition labelling.

A number of wineries and retailers have supported moves to provide more information, although this is sometimes done online rather than directly on labels.

EU wine trade body, the CEEV, published a calorie labelling plan in 2018.

The issue returned to the fore in the UK this week following media reports that pubs and bars might have to print calorie information on menus or beer taps.

The UK government said last year that it would be looking at the issue as part of its new strategy to tackle obesity.

It said it intended to require restaurants and cafes to give calorie information on menus. It also said it ‘will be consulting on our intention to make companies provide calorie labelling on alcohol’.

New guidance in the US

US regulations don’t require ‘nutrient content labelling’ for alcoholic drinks, according to the country’s Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB).

But the TTB issued new guidance in 2020 and the California-based Wine Institute said this would make it easier for wineries to give drinkers more nutritional information.

It said the new guidelines give wineries greater leeway to report ‘typical values’ when giving calorie amounts. Previous rules ‘involved expensive testing of multiple batches of wine close to the time of bottling’, the Institute said.

‘Wine is not a recipe product,’ said Bobby Koch, Wine Institute president and CEO. ‘Today’s ruling removes a major hurdle for providing nutrition information in labelling and advertising.’

Separately, rules set out by the Food & Drug Administration – and enforced from 2018 – said calorie information has to be given on ‘standard menu items’ in restaurants with outlets in 20 or more locations. This includes alcoholic drinks in certain circumstances.

This article has been updated in April 2021. The original copy in response to a Decanter reader query was written by Beverley Blanning MW, a writer and author who contributed to The Oxford Companion to Wine on wine and health.

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The terrace at Gunpowder, Tower Bridge

Levan, Peckham. Credit: Natalie Earl / Decanter

Jumilla always made decent red wines. Decades ago Jumilla’s wines provided colour, fruit and body to boost blends produced in other more famous wine regions. The ambition of today’s generation of vignerons however is not so much to make decent, marketable products but to achieve wines of international acclaim.

Focusing on an indigenous grape, Monastrell, that is perfectly adapted to Jumilla’s sunny, dry climate and poor limestone soils, a growing number of passionate growers are confident that they’re on the right track.

Traditionally, grape-producers took advantage of the region’s generous sunshine by planting vines on south-facing slopes, thereby guaranteeing regular crops of fully ripe grapes. Today, the prime vineyard sites are on the region’s north-facing slopes, where the heat of the sun is gentler and terroir expression comes through in the wines.

This strategy is not risk-free, since Jumilla’s altitude and continental climatic influences make it prone to spring frosts and lower sugar levels in the grapes. Leading the way are a handful of talented, home-grown Jumilla producers who are achieving startling results.

New balance

At the forefront is José Maria Vicente, who single-handedly runs the vineyards and cellars of his 170ha Casa Castillo estate, 12km from Jumilla. Planted in the shade of the Sierra de Molar his Monastrell and Garnacha reveal floral aromas and notes of mountain herbs and lavender. Following his lead, two young brothers at Fuente Alamo in Albacete province are also producing wines with totally different balances from the old norm. Carlos and Juan José Cerdan make stunning terroir-driven wines with floral expression and high acidity. While Vicente cross-references Casa Castillo with Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Carlos compares his top-end La Calera de Escaramujo to Barolo.

Jumilla’s dynamic promotional body at the Consejo Regulador has recently been focusing its communication on the natural balance found in Monastrell. Interestingly, by virtue of the compact nature of Monastrell’s bunches, in which the outer berries ripen quicker than those in the centre, a certain balance is achieved within the whole bunch.

Could this be why many Jumilla reds can appear very ripe on the nose and yet relatively dry on the palate? On smelling the wine, your brain prepares you for something rich and exuberant in mouth. Instead, the palate is often more restrained with a pleasant tannic structure and dry mineral finish.

Some of the most balanced, elegant Jumilla reds are produced by the Viña Elena winery, which is located in the southernmost part of the appellation, where the cool Continental climatic influences are countered by warmer Mediterranean currents. This is evoked in the word ‘bruma’ (mist) which is the name of Viña Elena’s flagship range.

Winemaker Elena Pacheco looks to bring out the more delicate red berry fruit character of the Monastrell, in balance with fresh acidity and length of flavour. The Bruma Marin 2019 is an excellent example, while the more upmarket Bruma Particiones is more dense and fleshy but still maintains elegance and balance. For sheer hedonistic enjoyment, the winery also makes a delicious straight Syrah.

Terroir driven

Juan Miguel Benitez, the winemaker at Jumilla’s oldest winery, Alceño, in the heart of Jumilla town, is another keen proponent of planting on north-facing slopes. Not only Monastrell, but also Garnacha Tintorera (at high altitude on gravel and limestone soils) and Syrah in Jumilla’s volcanic south-western zone. His exciting new release, Laderas del Volcan (a blend of Monastrell and Syrah grapes sourced from volcanic slopes) offers a mesmerising mix of raspberry aromas mingling with mineral notes.

Slightly more market-driven wines are produced at Bodegas Carchelo, just outside Jumilla town. Again, the cool terroir provided by the shade of the nearby Sierra de Carche is central to its winemaking philosophy.

Wine lovers with only a passing acquaintance with Jumilla wines may be familiar with the name Juan Gil, Jumilla’s emblematic and highly successful family-run winery. Producing an impressive range of great value for money wines, Juan Gil has access to some of the finest raw material across the appellation. The exuberant, rich, heady style of its internationally famous premium wines is well-known, but entry-level labels, such as Honoro Vera Monastrell, are beautifully balanced and offer amazing value.

Of similar great value are the wines of Silvano Garcia. Partnered by French winemaker Valérie Durand from Narbonne, Garcia has recently built new facilities outside Jumilla town. While his premium brand Etiqueta Negra is a local favourite, his Viñahonda 2019 is an attractive, complete wine displaying less oak and huge Monastrell charm.

Working together

As Jumilla’s finest terroirs are still in the process of being discovered, and investors have been slow to snap up premium sites, many of Jumilla’s growers with vines planted in excellent limestone terroir continue to sell their grapes to cooperatives. The BSI co-op (Bodegas San Isidro) close to Jumilla town is able to source a whole range of lots, some of them of impressive quality, which they maintain separately in order to showcase different Jumilla styles.

One such fine example is the Gemina ungrafted Monastrell brand, a classic, well-balanced Monastrell with red berry fruit and minerality. Similarly, in Fuente Alamo in Albacete province, the San Dionisio co-op has access to great raw material. Its barrel-aged Mainetes is a more Mediterranean expression of this part of Jumilla with sweet red berry fruit and vanilla notes.

At Pio del Ramo in Albacete province, whose owner is the charismatic Pio del Ramo Nuñez, suitably characterful wines are produced, such as Pio Roble, a lightly oaked entry-level brand that shows a lively tannic structure to complement the fruit aromatics.

Clearly, Jumilla has the soils, landscape, climate and grape varieties to make superb red wines. As can be seen, the viticultural strategies are key. But just as important are the winemaking choices. However balanced the raw material may be when it arrives in the cellars, the ageing process is crucial, since Jumilla reds aged in barriques appear to take on rather too much oak, whereas judicious ageing in larger formats such as foudres or in concrete maintain and enhance those precious balances. A lesson that Jumilla’s rising stars appear to have taken on board.

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Jumilla reds to try

Alceño Roble 2019

Monastrell

Lots of charm with cherry fruit and a touch of vanilla sweetness. Nicely structured and harmonious.

UK: Vindependents www.vindependents.co.uk

USA: Vinedos Selection vinedosusa.com

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Asensio Carcelén 100×100 Monastrell Ecologico 2019

Monastrell (organic)

Ripe forest fruit with hints of Christmas pudding. Smooth and sweet in style rather than fresh. Structure and some complexity.

UK: Bodega Soul bodegasoul.co.uk

USA: not available

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BSI (Bodegas San Isidro) Gemina Cuvee Seleccion 2016

Monastrell (ungrafted vines)

A complex nose of smoky black fruits, hints of Christmas pudding and dark chocolate. A hint of over-ripeness of the palate but this is balanced by minerality and a pleasant dry finish.

UK: Ehrmanns www.ehrmannswines.co.uk

USA: not available

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Bleda Castillo de Jumilla 2019

Monastrell-Tempranillo

Nice elegance and balance with good tannic structure.

UK: not available

USA: Tricana Imports www.tricanawines.com

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Casa Castillo Las Gravas 2018

Monastrell (ungrafted vines)

Elegance and complexity with subtle red and black fruit aromatics. Fine and air-light in mouth. A beautifully balanced wine.

UK: Indigo Wines www.indigowine.com

USA: European Cellars www.europeancellars.com

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Mainetes Cratera Parcela Colleras

Monastrell (organic)

Fine red berry fruit and well-integrated creamy oak. Soft tannins and quite elegant on the palate.

UK: not available

USA: Verity Wines veritywines.com

Winery website: www.enoturismomainetes.com

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Nuestra Señora de la Encarnacion, Señorio de Tobarra Tinto 2019

Monastrell

Bodegas Terrific value for money. Clean, cherry-fruit nose with hints of liquorice and spice. Supple and balanced on the palate.

UK: not available

USA: not available

Winery website: www.bodegaencarnacion.es

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Ontalba Equilibrista 2019

Monastrell-Syrah-Petit Verdot

A complex spicy wine with ripe fruit. Good balance on the palate.

UK: García Grapes (no website)

USA: Wines & Beyond (no website)

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Parajes del Valle, Terraje 2018

Monastrell

A sweet creamy strawberry nose that develops in the glass with mineral, toasty notes coming through. Juicy fruit on the palate and soft tannins balanced by a pleasant dry finish.

UK: not available

USA: not available

Winery website: parajesdelvalle.es

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Pio del Ramo Pio Roble 2017

Monastrell-Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon (organic)

A seductive nose of ripe fruit and integrated toasty oak. A serious wine on the palate with some tannic austerity.

UK: not available

USA: Espana Wines espanawines.com

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Ramon Izquierdo 2019

Monastrell (organic)

Very ripe, dense, full wine. Easy-drinking.

UK: not available

USA: not available

Winery website: www.ramonizquierdovinos.com

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San Dionosio Mainetes Crianza 2017

Monastrell

Sweet, red berry fruit and vanilla balanced by nice acidity. Integrated oak and notes of tobacco.

UK: not available

USA: Kysela Pere et Fils www.kysela.com

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Sierra Norte Equilibrio 9 2017

Monastrell

An approachable, well-made wine with good structure, toasty fruit and some complexity.

UK: not available

USA: Tradewinds www.tradewindsspecialty.com

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Viña Elena Bruma Paraje de Marin 2019

Monastrell

Very attractive nose of red berry fruit, minerals and spices. Precise, just ripe with complexity on the palate.

UK: Alliance Wine www.alliancewine.com

USA: The Spanish Acquisition (New York & New Jersey) www.spanishacquisition.com,Wines Unlimited (Louisiana) www.winesunlimited.com, Matinicus Wines (Colorado) www.matinicuswines.com, ¿Por qué no? Selections (California) porquenoselections.com

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Xenysel Pie Franco 2020

Monastrell (ungrafted vines)

Needed some air. Fine red berry fruit coming through. Quite delicate with ripe tannins and a long finish.

UK: Jeroboams jeroboamstrade.co.uk

USA: Codipral codipralus.com, Vinaio www.vinaioimports.com, Trovato www.trovatowine.com

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Head to our main DOP Jumilla page to learn more

Introduced in Argentina in 1853, Argentinean Malbec has grown to become a consumer favourite – and for good reason. As a varietal wine, Malbec is deep purple and often produced to be approachable in youth.

What will you be toasting Malbec World Day with? Share with us on social media @Decanter and @DecanterAwards.

15 award-winning Malbec & Malbec blends to try

Amalaya, Malbec, Calchaquíes, Salta 2019

Platinum, 97 points

85% Malbec, 10% Tannat, 5% Petit Verdot

Perfumed attractive nose with layers of spice, crunchy strawberries, ripe red plums and fresh violets. Vibrant on the palate with a lovely freshness in harmony with a dense chocolatey character, ending in an elegant spicy finish.

Bodega Luigi Bosca, Finca Los Nobles Malbec-Verdot, Las Compuertas, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2018

Platinum, 97 points

95% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot

Lovely and complex floral fragrance with nuances of pink pepper, spices, balsamic, lavender and toasty aromas. Lively in the palate with quite bright fresh, yet concentrated, fruit expression. Intriguing, smart and accomplished wine.

Chakana, Ayni Malbec, Paraje Altamira, Mendoza 2018

Platinum, 97 points

100% Malbec

Very perfumed floral nuances scented with some fresh herbaceous notes, slightly tangy mineral nose too. Lovely freshness and chalky tannins, nice follow through and well-textured. Great fruit purity, attractive use of oak.

Escorihuela Gascón, The President’s Blend Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah, El Cepillo, San Carlos, Mendoza 2018

Platinum, 97 points

85% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Syrah

Pretty blue fruit notes with intriguing herbs, lavender and thyme over crunchy peppery raspberry undertones. Open and expressive with plenty of character, with a beautiful velvety texture and well-judged oak use.

Pascual Toso, Magdalena, Barrancas, Maipu, Mendoza 2017

Platinum, 97 points

73% Malbec, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon

Stunning cassis, fruit cake, cacao and gentle vanilla aromas. On the palate, it is intense, with ripe black fruit, restrained spice and well-integrated oak; overall length and balance can’t be faulted. Very impressive.

Trivento, Golden Reserve Malbec, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza 2018

Platinum, 97 points

100% Malbec

Fresh and fragrant nose of lavender, balsamic, plums, thyme, black pepper and sweet black cherries. Nice crunchy graphite texture, with a lovely core of fruit concentration supported by a lively acidity. Smart and delicious.

Trivento, Gaudeo Single Vineyard Malbec, Tunuyán, Mendoza 2018

Platinum, 97 points

100% Malbec

Subtle and seductive fragrance of licorice, cassis, and vibrant red fruits of the forest. On the palate it exudes refinement and finesse. Rich and plush, with velvety tannins and a bright fresh finish.

Viñalba, Reserve Malbec-Touriga Nacional, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2019

Platinum, 97 poins

80% Malbec, 20% Touriga Nacional

Aromas are vibrant, lively with an attractive scent of blackberry, citrus peel, rich coffee and mocha notes along with hints of thyme. Refreshing with wonderful purity of fruit, refined tannins and long finish.

Argento, Single Block, Altamira, San Carlos, Mendoza 2017

Gold, 95 points

100% Malbec

Intense and floral nose of rose petals with spicy scents and lots of juicy black fruit. Voluminous wine, lovely layered concentration of ripe fruit, delicious.

Argento, Single Vineyard Organic Malbec, Altamira, San Carlos, Mendoza 2018

Gold, 95 points

100% Malbec

Pungent, slightly smoky nose, with ripe blackberry fruit. Strong smoky characters with fresh and very pure fruit, well judged use of oak.

BenMarco, Plata Special Edition Malbec, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2019

Gold, 95 points

100% Malbec

Quite spicy nose with warm black currant and plum fruit aromas over earthy mineral undertones. Very plush and sappy, smooth with freshness and fruit intensity.

Colomé, Auténtico Malbec, Calchaquíes, Salta 2019

Gold, 95 points

100% Malbec

High toned fruit on the nose with notes of ripe blueberry and bramble over meaty and savoury undertones. Fleshy on palate with interesting and appealing meaty character.

Doña Paula, Alluvia Parcel Malbec, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2017

Gold, 95 points

100% Malbec

Subtle and elegant nose of fresh plums and crunchy red berries framed by perfumed floral notes. Nervous and electric palate, fresh and pure.

Finca El Origen, Reserva Malbec, Los Chacayes, Tunuyán, Mendoza 2019

Gold, 95 points

100% Malbec

Aromas are intense with notes of lively red fruits, red apples, floral, herbs and spices. Lovely crunchy fruit underpinned by fresh acidity. Refined, fine grained and sophisticated.

La Luz, Callejón del Crimen Gran Reserva Malbec, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2017

Gold, 95 points

100% Malbec

Subtle nose of smoke and elegant oak along with some ripe fruit with fresh plums. Plenty of mineral layers on the palate, lovely freshness and elegance.

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Search all Decanter World Wine Awards 2020 results

Go to DWWA homepage

It started as a tiny trickle. One lone bottle called Seedlip suddenly appeared on the market in 2015. I remember tasting it at the drinks magazine I was working on at the time. ‘It tastes OK – but who’s going to buy it?’

As it turned out, the answer was: everyone. The trickle turned into a flood, led by people who didn’t know they needed a quality alcohol-free alternative until they had one. They were joined by people who simply don’t want to drink alcohol as a religious or lifestyle choice, plus people who need to cut their intake for health reasons.

‘It’s been surreal to see the demand,’ says Ben Branson, creator of Seedlip. ‘It launched from my kitchen; I was delivery driver, accountant, salesman, marketer, manufacturer. Five years later we have distribution in 37 countries… and there are now over 125 products in the non-alcohol spirit category globally.’

Indeed, the global value of the no-abv spirit category grew by 499.5% between 2014 and 2019, according to The IWSR. And there’s more growth yet to come: volume sales are predicted to increase by 40.5% globally from 2019 to 2024.

Spirit of innovation

In addition, low- and no- is one of the most innovative categories out there, driven by creators outside the drinks industry as much as by traditional distillers. Branson was running a design agency when he came up with the idea of Seedlip.

‘Back in 2013, while researching interesting herbs I could grow at home, I came across a book written in 1651 called The Art of Distillation that documented distilled herbal remedies – both alcoholic and non-alcoholic,’ he says. ‘Out of curiosity I bought a copper still and began experimenting in my kitchen.’

Branson’s interest was also driven by strong links to the land; his family owns a pea farm, and peas became an important ingredient in his drinks. It was a similar story for husband- and-wife team Chris and Rose Bax, who were inspired by their love of foraging to create their own brand, Bax Botanics.

‘We used to teach people about putting wild flavours into all sorts of different products. It might have been ice cream, jam, chutney or wine,’ explains Rose. The duo approached the creation of their no-alcohol drinks in a culinary way, steered by Chris’s background as a chef.

‘I think in some ways we weren’t hampered by thinking: “This is how you distil stuff”. Having worked with gin distillers, we know that our approach is probably not the obvious one,’ says Chris. ‘We combine methods used in gin distilling and methods used in perfumery. Our goal is to capture beautiful flavours.’

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See also: Rising trend – Low and no alcohol wines

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All taste, no booze

Capturing flavour – and keeping it – is the key challenge for no-alcohol spirits producers, as alcohol both heightens flavours in a drink and acts as a preservative (which accounts for the long shelf life of spirits).

There are different ways to do this, starting with a base alcohol made by fermenting grain (or any other crop containing sugar or starch). Some producers macerate botanicals – any plant, seed, root or flower – in a base alcohol, then distil the liquid to completely remove the alcohol. Others distil the botanicals to create flavour, then continue distilling to remove alcohol.

To create low-alcohol spirits you simply stop distilling when you reach your required abv. Botanical extracts can be added after distillation to round out and ramp up the flavour.

‘You’ve also got to be very conscious about preservation and about any kind of impurity or microbiological infiltration in the liquid,’ says Howard Davies, co-founder of Salcombe Distilling Co, the maker of New London Light, a no-alcohol alternative to London Dry gin.

New London Light is flash-pasteurised (heated to about 85°C for 30 seconds) ‘to make sure that the liquid is completely pure without any impairment to the flavour’. This ensures that bottles will keep for six months after opening.

Tapping into trends

Of course, there would be no point mastering these production methods without a demand for low- and no-alcohol drinks. Seedlip’s Branson cleverly anticipated that demand, but what continues to drive it?

‘Consumers are changing behaviour very fast, particularly the younger generation, who are starting to question their relationship with alcohol,’ says Eric Sampers, previously brand director of Beefeater Gin, now working with Illogical Drinks, which makes 6% abv Mary.

‘There is always a generation that dictates the agenda in terms of trends and fashion, but then their choices end up influencing a lot more. They can break the rules or the tradition, but eventually those trends spread very fast across other age groups,’ he adds.

‘I think we’re becoming increasingly more demanding of access to great food and drink options, without having to compromise on our health and wellbeing,’ says Claire Warner, co-founder of Æcorn, a range of non-alcoholic aperitifs from Seedlip.

‘Certainly some people are drinking less often, but they actually want to drink quality,’ agrees Rose Bax. ‘They’ll have a couple of glasses of delicious wine with their meal, but might have an alcohol-free drink as an aperitif or use an alcohol-free as a pacing drink throughout the meal.’

‘With greater access to better no-alcohol choices, we’re beginning to enter a new phase of socialising which isn’t centred around the types of drink or even location that we’ve become used to,’ believes Warner.

‘This evolution in how we spend our time – how we connect meaningfully with others and where – will be fascinating to see play out over the next few years.’

First published in January 2021. Updated April 2021. 

Low-alcohol spirits to try

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CleanCo CleanG

Coming in at just 1.2% abv, CleanG is so low, it’s almost no. Made with classic gin botanicals including juniper, citrus peels, angelica, orris root and coriander, it’s got zesty aromas and a clean, sharp, bright palate with grapefruit citrus and some green chilli spice. Makes a convincingly fresh, citrus take on a G&T, with a dry, spicy finish. Also gluten-free and vegan. Alc 1.2%

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Hayman’s Small Gin

A little bottle that packs a big punch. This 43% abv gin dials up the botanicals during distillation, so you only need 5ml to make a decent G&T with classic citrus and spice character – but only 0.2 units of alcohol. Each bottle comes with a dinky 5ml metal thimble for measuring. A brilliant idea that’s so simple, you wonder why no one thought of it sooner. Alc 43%

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Mary

Created by Eric Sampers, previously brand director of Beefeater Gin, Mary is distilled with responsibly sourced botanicals – basil, thyme, sage, coriander seed, angelica root, juniper and pine needles – for a fresh, herbal alternative to gin. Mix one part Mary with two parts Schweppes Slimline Tonic for a vivacious, herbaceous, low-calorie (9kcals) drink. Alc 6%

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Pure Lite

This organic spirit made from British wheat is also vegetarian and vegan friendly and delivers 29kcals per serving. Sister to Pure Vodka, which launched in 2019, it’s got a creamy, silky palate with a delicate citrus and floral character and a clean, crisp finish. Great for sipping or mixing. Alc 20%

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Six alcohol free spirits to try

Red wines made from Tannat are classically deep-hued and intense with a lush kernel of black fruit, from plums to black cherry and cassis, wrapped in plenty of tannins that can range from bold to fine-grained and supple.  

As you probably know by now, decisions in the vineyard and the cellar can result in varying styles.

Balance is always the key, and some of the best recent examples of Tannat wines integrate the variety’s tannin content with natural acidity and bright fruit – as the examples below show.

You can also find Tannat being used to make rosé wines.

Madiran

In Madiran, Tannat’s traditional heartland of south-west France, you might find Tannat blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc.

Producers have been working with ways to manage tannin content in the wines to ensure a harmonious balance with other elements, according to the region’s wine body.

Lauded wine producer Alain Brumont is known for pioneering a new wave of pure Tannat wines in Madiran, launching his Château Montus Prestige in 1985.

Decanter’s Stephen Brook met him in 2020 and tasted several wines, including the 100% Tannat, Montus Prestige 2009.

‘Suave and very rich, it shows depth and spice and immense concentration, but it’s balanced by high acidity that keeps it taut,’ Brook wrote.

It’s possible to make lighter styles of Tannat varietal wines, too. This cooperative-made Madiran is 90% Tannat and shows a ‘lighter touch’ with supple tannins yet opulent fruit, according to Brook. 

This Château Bouscassé 2015 Madiran AOC wine blends 60% Tannat with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. It’s ‘ripe and full-bodied, with dark, tarry, sweet black fruit’, said Decanter’s Amy Wislocki, but everything is in balance and it ‘shows how approachable Madiran can be’. 

Beyond France, this Pueblo Edén Tannat from Uruguay’s Viña Edén is ‘joyously fruity’ with fresh acidity, wrote Decanter’s Tina Gellie recently.

Speaking of Uruguay, the country is making a name for itself with fascinating styles of Tannat.

Tannat wines in Uruguay: Is this a new ‘Malbec’ story?

Jane Anson wrote in 2017 that Uruguay was the only country to have taken in Tannat as its national grape, a move that inevitably invites comparisons with how Argentina reimagined Malbec.

‘Estates like Bodega Garzon – located in a coastal village of the same name, close to Punta del Este by coincidence – have produced a more contemporary-styled version that is helping to smooth Tannat’s image of rustic, hard tannins in international markets,’ Anson wrote.

Tim Atkin MW marvelled at Uruguay’s ‘great ascent’ in this article last year.

And he cited a ‘world-class’ example of Tannat from Bouza winery in Montevideo in his article on 30 great South American red blends, too.

His tasting note praised the wine’s ‘top notes of violet, sweet spices and cut grass [with a] palate of cassis, plum, strawberry [and] nuanced tannins’.

You’ll also find the grape variety in some other parts of the wine world.

This Stinson Vineyards Tannat-dominant wine from Virginia in the US clocks in at 15.1% abv, but the tannins and 27 months ageing in new French oak are matched by floral notes and bright fruit, noted Jason Tesauro. 

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You may also like: 

Madiran: A regional profile and top wines to seek out

Uruguay’s great ascent