Wine Varieties

NEW YORK – Ancient Greek grape varieties and the impressive modern wines made from them were featured in Wine Enthusiast Magazine (WEM) which noted that “in Greece, wine is deeply woven into the fabric of everyday society and is a central component of cultural history.”

The long history of wine in Greece was also noted as “the country is one of the world’s most ancient viticultural locations,” WEM reported, adding that “references to consumption and cultivation appear in literature and historical texts as early as the 17th century BC” and “indigenous wine varieties once favored by Hesiod and Aristotle are still produced today.”

“Wine has played a central role in everyday Greek life for more than 4,000 years,” Dr. Haroula Spinthiropoulou, a historian, viticulturist and wine producer, told WEM, noting that “evidence of a bustling wine culture and trade on islands like Crete and Santorini, and in the mainland Peloponnese region, traces to the 2nd millennium BC.”  

“In addition to serving religious and medicinal purposes in ancient times, wine was central to ‘intellectual gatherings called symposia, where they would eat and talk while drinking wine, with Greek sommelier, or oenochooi, serving them,’” Spinthiropoulou told WEM. “The nutritional value of wine was well known by [them], and it became a dominant part of their diet as well as their philosophy of life.”  

“Social and political upheaval of subsequent Roman, Byzantine and Turkish occupations impeded and sometimes suspended commercial production of Greece’s legendary ancient varieties,” WEM reported, adding “yet, local production and demand for the one-of-a-kind wines endured throughout the ages.”

The ancient varieties are becoming increasingly popular today worldwide, “thanks to passionate sommeliers and wine historians, and an increasing number of progressive Greek vintners committed to protecting and perfecting these liquid relics,” WEM reported, noting that “among Greece’s more than 300 indigenous grapes, several are millennia old,” and “Assyrtiko, Limnio, Robola and Liatiko are four that draw particular attention for their world-class quality, with traditional and modern styles that align with 21st-century palates.” Let’s discover this fascinating taste of the past.

Assyrtiko is “the smoky, salty and cellar–worthy white wine borne of Santorini’s moonscape-like volcanic vineyards dates back more than 3,500 years,” WEM reported, adding that “grown in sandy, nutrient-poor soils resistant to the phylloxera pest that decimated vineyards across the world, Santorini was left untouched. This enabled the development of hearty vineyards, some of which are more than 150 years old. In fact, the island boasts some the few self-rooted vines left in Europe.”

Santorini’s wine producers use traditional techniques, including “the kouloura in which plants are pruned into a low basket around the grapes, which protects them from the island’s strong winds, hot sun and blowing sand,” WEM reported, noting that “the practice also limits the vines’ need for water.”

“Assyrtiko is a unique variety with a very distinctive character, very well adjusted to the harsh climate of the Cyclades,” Spinthiropoulou told WEM. “It has a high acidity and is rich in phenolic compounds, two elements which in Santorini’s environment give birth to a distinctive aromatic character combined with very good structure.”

“This flinty, full-bodied expression of Santorini may be the closest in style to its ancient expression, but the grape has also proven successful elsewhere,” WEM reported, adding that “increasingly, it is being planted in Attica, northern Greece, the Peloponnese and on Crete” and is “now cultivated in countries including Australia, Italy and South Africa.”

“It’s a variety that has shown it can be cultivated in different climates and soils, and while some regions give better characteristics than others, it’s difficult to find a bad Assyrtiko,” Vagelis Gavalas, the fifth-generation winemaker of Santorini’s Gavalas Winery told WEM. “We think it can be the flagship for the white wines of Greece.” 

“Focusing on single expressions of the grape, the 300-year-old winery produces unoaked, oaked and wild-ferment bottlings, and its next project is a bottling produced from 150-year-old vines,” WEM reported, noting that “elsewhere on the island, producers like Sigalas, Gai’a, Argyros, Vassaltis and Hatzidakis have contributed to the grape’s global success,” and “micro-terroir bottlings, experiments in underwater aging and library tastings reveal its potential as one of the world’s great age-able white wines.”

“The variety has long been used for Vinsanto, the sun-dried dessert wine made from Santorini white grapes (including, by law, 51% Assyrtiko) with origins in the 12th century,” WEM reported, adding “while no relation to Tuscan Vin Santo, the wine was named ‘Vino di Santo’ by Venetians who controlled the Mediterranean trade routes during the Byzantine era,” and “it was later famed in 18th-century Russia for its appealing flavors of warming spices and vibrant fruit.”

“Today, elegant styles from producers like Argyros, Gai’a and others have kept it attuned to modern palates,” WEM reported, noting that “Gavalas makes a Vinsanto, in which Assyrtiko is blended with smaller amounts of native varieties Aidani and Athiri.”

Assyrtiko is also used “in sparkling wines by producers like Santorini’s Santo Wines, and in a lively retsina made by Kechris Winery in Thessaloniki,” WEM reported.

“The global wine market is now very open to unique, rare wines,” Gavalas told WEM. “We are talking about a white wine with characteristics that are difficult to be found in many wines. It’s in our hands to keep evolving the high standard of this variety.”

Spinthiropoulou told WEM that she agrees and “indigenous, native varieties can be a challenge to consumers with other Greek wines… Assyrtiko seems to be our passport to the international market.” 

Among the “bottles to try,” WEM suggests Greek Wine Cellars 2019 Flowers Assyrtiko (Santorini), $27; Skouras 2019 Wild Ferment Assyrtiko (Peloponnese), $18; Wine Art Estate 2019 Plano Assyrtiko (Drama), $25; Alexakis 2019 Assyrtiko (Crete), $17; Domaine Papagiannakos 2019 Assyrtiko (Attica), $22; and Gavalas 2019 Dry Assyrtiko (Santorini), $34.

Limnio, the red wine mentioned in Homer’s Odyssey is “one of Greece’s oldest on record,” WEM reported, noting that it hails from the Aegean island of Lemnos, and “was a major player in the sweet wine craze that dominated ancient Greece.”

Today, Limnio is “produced both in elegant, dry, single-variety bottlings and blends, mainly in the northern Greek regions of Macedonia and Thrace,” WEM reported, adding that “Limnio is typified by moderate, silky tannins, good acidity, a pronounced mineral nose and flavors of crushed herbs and bright red berries.”

“Its full-bodied yet focused character has ‘more than a little in common with Barolo,’” George Salpindigis, viticultural director at Tsantali Vineyards & Wineries, told WEM. 

“Experimentation in small plots with the variety started as early as 1975, but the winery began to more actively replant Limnio vines on Mount Athos in northwestern Greece in 2002,” WEM reported, adding that “Tsantali now blends it with varieties like Agiorgitiko, Cabernet and Grenache in its Abaton and Kormilitsa bottlings. Limnio adds finesse and brightness to the layered reds.”

“Though relatively rare, varietal bottlings by producers like Vourvoukeli Estate in Thrace and Garalis (on Lemnos) highlight Limnio’s naturally vibrant palate and high acidity,” WEM reported, noting that “both stainless steel- and oak-aged expressions offer an intriguing alternative for fans of deep-flavored reds.”

Salpindigis told WEM that Limnio is “an extremely fine variety with fabulous potential to make great, age-worthy wines.” 

WEM suggests Tsantali 2014 Agiorgitiko Abaton Gold Selection (Mount Athos), $35, noting its “aromas of ripe red berries, cherry and spice are followed by rich flavors of cherry, currant and vanilla in this blend of 50% Xinomavro, 30% Grenache and 20% Limnio.”

Robola is a white grape, “fresh, citrusy and lightly aromatic,” which “originates from the Ionian island of Cephalonia and is believed to date to at least the 12th century,” WEM reported, adding that “though the variety is now grown on other islands in the Ionian chain, its main production is still on Cephalonia. It’s protected under the Robola of Cephalonia Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) designation.”

“Gentilini Winery is the island’s premier Robola producer,” WEM reported, noting that “the Gentilini family has centuries-old ties to the island, but its winemaking history began in the 1970s, when Spiro-Nicholas Kosmetatos planted his first vineyard.”

“Today, Gentilini produces three distinctive varietal expressions: a wild yeast bottling, a superpremium high-altitude bottling and a classic stainless-steel style, WEM reported, adding that “Spiro-Nicholas’ daughter, Marianna Kosmetatos, owns the winery with her husband, Petros,” and “says all three bottlings reflect the original terroir of the island.”

“Robola has characteristics completely unique to the appellation on Cephalonia, including balanced acidity, minerality and citrus fruit,” Kosmetatos told WEM. “We experiment [with it] constantly, [because it] has so much potential.”

She added that “limited acreage and a reluctance by younger vintners to farm the existing tricky parcels pose obstacles for the category. Yet, she has no doubt the demand will be there, if people just give the wine a try.”

“It has the potential to give super premium wines of great complexity and longevity,” Kosmetatos told WEM. “If more wineries/growers follow…suit, the future of Robola is bright.” 

Gentilini 2019 Wild Paths Robola (Cephalonia), $43, and Sclavos 2019 Di Sasso (Cephalonia), $28, are among the bottles recommended by WEM.

The section on the Liatiko variety highlights Crete’s “ancient wine world,” WEM reported, noting that “vestiges of the island’s 4,000 years of viticulture seem to be found everywhere, whether you tour the ruins of Minoan wine presses or view millennia-old frescoes that depict everyday wine enjoyment. You may also stumble over the stones of antique amphorae half-submerged in vineyard soil.”

“Liatiko’s connection to Crete dates to the 2nd or 3rd century BC” WEM reported, adding that “the variety is mentioned throughout the island’s history, including in 13th-century texts (referencing the famous sun-dried Malvasia sweet wine of the time, in which Liatiko was included) and in 16th-century vineyard purchase documents.” 

“Centuries-old Liatiko vineyards are found across Crete, but there are only a handful of producers that still make the variety,” WEM reported, noting that “among them are Lyrarakis Winery, Diamantakis, Economou and Douloufakis.”

“Lyrarakis has been experimenting with Liatiko in various local sites, from old vines in Sitia to high-altitude vineyards in Amari, near Rethymno,” WEM reported, pointing out that “in addition to its varietal Aggelis Liatiko, Lyrarakis produces a Liatiko rosé that showcases the grape’s brighter character.”

“The timing is right to showcase the variety’s strengths,” Bart Lyrarakis, owner of Lyrarakis, told WEM, adding that “he strives for a lighter, more delicate expression of Liatiko.”

“Consumer taste all over the world has been turning more and more to this kind of wine. It is here to stay,” he told WEM. 

Lyrarakis 2018 Aggelis Liatiko (Crete), $24, and Douloufakis 2018 Dafnios (Dafnes), $17, are two of the bottles of the variety recommended by WEM.

In January 2020, Tony Camilleri’s Toro Loco in Farmington won over greater Hartford diners with its take on authentic Mexican cuisine, highlighted by tacos on housemade heirloom corn tortillas. Almost exactly a year later, he and his partners are bringing the same passion and attention to detail to Spanish tapas.

Camilleri, Stretch Altenhein and James LaFond opened Toro Taberna in West Hartford in early February, bringing Spanish flair to the former Park & Oak at the corner of Park Road and Oakwood Avenue. (Altenhein, an artist, lent his talents to the restaurant’s bull-and-toreador motif, with brightly colored carved wall murals featuring bullfighter and beast.)

“Toro Loco is pretty much Mexican with Spanish influences, and here we kept it more like Spain, if you were walking around San Sebastián and hitting the little tapas bars,” Camilleri says. “This one stays mostly heavily focused on Spain, with a little Mexican influence here and there.”

The two restaurants do have one big factor in common: their menus are entirely gluten free, with an emphasis on items made with corn, rice and yuca. 

Toro Taberna offers all the tapas-bar greatest hits, and more. Meat and cheese boards are available with a full selection of Spanish cheeses and charcuterie: jamón serrano, chorizo picante, salchichón de Vic, Manchego, Mahón and Valdeón. Premium Mangalica ham, for $16 a portion, is carved by hand tableside.

Patatas bravas, one of Spain’s most popular tapas plates, are served in five different presentations. A traditional recipe has salsa brava and aioli, but here they’re gilded with toppings like truffle aioli and Parmigiano cheese, jumbo lump crab and guacamole, chorizo and fried egg with jamón serrano. “A lot of the tapas bars over in Spain specialize in one thing, and there are ones that just specialize in bravas,” Camilleri says. “You can mix and match different sauces and ingredients … I kind of brought a little bit of that version to this menu, and we’ll change up the flavors differently seasonally.”

Picaduras offer the tapas experience, with about 20 small plates featuring meat, seafood and vegetable options. From the sea, there’s calamari frito with pimentón aioli, mussels with saffron and chorizo picante, and pulpo, or grilled octopus tentacle with potato, lemon aioli and olive chimichurri. Red pequin chiles scattered in the gambas peri peri dish are tiny but mighty, packing a fiery punch amid the garlic and herbs bathing the small shrimp.

Albondigas, or pork and beef meatballs, are cooked in jamón tomato sauce, and pork belly bites get a membrillo-Nora chile glaze. Beef braised in Rioja wine is served with crispy onion and crunchy corn quicos. Meat-free options abound, too, with a traditional tortilla Española, braised greens, cauliflower “hummus” with harissa, and potato croquettes with Manchego. Pintxos — skewered bites of beef, chicken, shrimp, chorizo, mushroom or swordfish — are prepared with accompanying sauces and served with corn tortillas.

Large plates include paella and fideos (which swaps the requisite rice for toasted noodles) prepared in five distinct varieties with seasonal vegetables, pork belly, chicken and seafood. Jet-black squid ink darkens the rice of the Catalunya version, with mussels, squid, shrimp and garlic aioli. 

All of Toro Taberna’s desserts are gluten free, including churros made with rice and yuca flour; a rich, caramel-inflected flan and a Mexican chocolate cake, laced with cinnamon and topped with pepitas.

“We wanted this to be everyone’s neighborhood bar-slash-restaurant where they can come in and have multiple experiences,” Camilleri says. “You can come in and just have meat, cheese and wine. If you want, you can get a couple of tapas, or if you want something bigger, you have our paella and fideos. There’s a lot of options as far as how hungry you are or what kind of experience you want to have.”

At the bar, wines are heavy on selections from Spanish and South American producers, and curated cocktails feature a seasonal gin and tonic, a “Piggie Smalls” libation with jamón Serrano-infused bourbon and maple syrup, and a “Poppin Pomegranate” with gin, elderflower, housemade grenadine and cava. Toro Taberna borrows some inspiration from its Farmington sibling, with a tequila stone fruit punch and margaritas by the glass or carafe.

The restaurant now serves brunch on Saturdays and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., with dishes like fried chicken and churros, shakshuka and carne asada “steak and eggs” with build-your-own mimosas and Bloody Marys. 

Next up: Camilleri and team are opening another location, Toro Loco Street Food in West Hartford’s Blue Back Square, next to the Whole Foods supermarket. Slated for a mid-to-late June launch, the fast-casual restaurant will offer tacos, street food favorites and margaritas, with an outdoor patio.

---

Toro Taberna

14 Oakwood Ave., West Hartford

860-773-4003, torotaberna.com, @toro_taberna on Instagram

Hours: Dinner Tue.–Sat. and brunch Sat. & Sun.

Wheelchair accessible

The Morning Call |

Apr 24, 2021 at 10:00 AM

Moms deserve to be celebrated every day of the year, but after the huge headaches of 2020, they are worthy of an especially wonderful Mother’s Day 2021. So, don’t drop the ball on May 9.

Cut flowers are almost always appreciated, but if you really want to show the marvelous matriarch of your family how much you care, consider gifting her an item with a little more shelf life — like a bottle of wine, which actually gets better with age.

The Lehigh Valley’s newest spot to score locally produced wine is Stone Lake Wine Bar, which opened March 3 at 8 Mt. Bethel Plaza, Suite 32, in Upper Mount Bethel Township.

The business, offering red and white wines by the glass, flight and bottle, is the first brick-and-mortar location of Stone Lake Winery, which husband and wife Scott and Jacki Douglas established last year.

The couple has operated Stone Lake Inn, a bed and breakfast and event venue in Saylorsburg, since 2016, and they got the idea for the winery after hearing how much inn guests loved tasting wines in their travels.

Wines are formulated locally using grapes sourced from vineyards in Erie and other parts of northwestern Pennsylvania, Scott said.

Varieties include dry selections like Cabernet Franc and Grüner Veltliner, off-dry options like Noiret and Riesling, sweet picks like Concord and Niagara and semi-sweet selections like Fredonia, Vidal Blanc and Vignoles. Moscato is coming soon.

“Many of the wines that we produce aren’t very common around here,” Scott said. “We like to focus on the quality of grapes that we use along with the guest experience in our tasting room. We want people to feel like they’re part of our family. It’s not about just making money for us. We want to make friends.”

Stone Lake Winery is a family affair with the Douglas’ daughter, Kassi Adams, serving as manager and their two sons — Patrick Douglas and Scott Douglas — also helping out in various capacities.

Customers can enjoy wines in the 24-seat tasting room or al-fresco at outdoor tables on the weekends.

Popular picks include sangria, featuring a new flavor every week, and hard Italian ice, made from scratch using Stone Lake’s wines (available in a cup, flight or to-go pint).

The wine bar, which also serves Yuengling beer and welcomes food from neighboring restaurants, is open 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Wednesdays and Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sundays.

Customers also can purchase the winery’s creations at prominent area businesses like Shoprite of Brodheadsville and the Wine and Beer Shop at American Candle in Bartonsville. Info: 570-583-2331; stonelakewinery.com.

From one new wine bar to another, Peculiar Wine Bar & Bites, serving small plates and wines by the glass, bottle and flight, opened April 10 at 520 Main St. in Bethlehem, next to Urbano Mexican Kitchen & Bar.

The 40-seat restaurant supplements husband and wife Juan Carlos and Cara Paredes’ other downtown Bethlehem dining spots: Urbano, breakfast and lunch spot The Flying Egg, French-inspired Cachette Bistro & Creperie and Spanish restaurant Tapas on Main, the latter of which they operate with partner and chef Rafael Palomino.

It offers more than 40 red wines, around 30 white wines and around a dozen rose and sparkling wines from top domestic and international winemaking regions, including areas of Argentina, California, Chile, France, Italy, Portugal, New Zealand, South Africa and Washington.

About a half dozen of both red and white wine varieties are available by the glass, with the rest being available by the bottle, Juan Carlos said. Wine flights also are available.

“We’ll have some organic wines, which are huge right now, as well,” Juan Carlos said.

Peculiar offers a rotating menu of small plates, or “bites,” that complements the various wines. Dishes have mostly Mediterranean influences, with items from a sample menu including personal margherita pizzas, artichoke cauliflower dip with parmesan and pecorino cheeses and “Peculiar caprese” (mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, olives, basil and Seasons olive oil and balsamic).

From Riesling to “rippers,” Easton Public Market has announced that its newest vendor, Rod’s Hot Dogs, is expected to open this summer.

Husband and wife owners Mike and Rebecca Pichetto previously operated the space’s former tenant, Full of Crepe, since 2018. The couple also operates Easton’s 3rd & Ferry Fish Market, a popular seafood restaurant, a few blocks away at 56 S. Third St.

“Full of Crepe was terrific and we genuinely enjoyed doing it, but it wasn’t my passion,” Mike said.

Rod’s Hot Dogs is named for Mike’s grandfather, Rod, who ran a hot dog cart in Rutherford, N.J. after WWII. The stand will offer the iconic northern New Jersey-style hot dogs called “rippers.”

“The hot dogs are fried to obtain that ‘ripper’ state where they plump and crisp, and split either at the ends or down the middle,” Pichetto said.

Rod’s also will offer bratwurst, chicken dogs and vegan hot dogs, hand-pressed burgers with ground beef from fellow Easton Public Market vendor Saylors & Co. and scratch-made toppings, waffle fries, onion rings, birch beer and milkshakes made with ice cream from Easton’s Bank Street Creamery. Info: facebook.com/eastonpublicmarket.

Another meaty option is coming to Lehigh County this summer: Colliers International, a global real estate services and investment management company, on Monday announced that fast-food chain Burger King has concluded a ground lease at 1116 Chestnut St. in Emmaus, the site of the former Fiesta Ole Mexican restaurant.

The forthcoming eatery, supplementing about two dozen Burger King locations throughout the Lehigh Valley, will be at the busy intersection of Cedar Crest Boulevard and Chestnut Street, across the street from McDonald’s and close to convenience store chains 7-Eleven and Wawa.

It also will be a block away from the forthcoming Melly Mel’s Chicken, a fast-casual eatery set to open in the fall at the former Pizza Hut building.

The Lehigh Valley’s fourth European Wax Center is coming soon to The Promenade Shops at Saucon Valley in Upper Saucon Township.

The chain, offering body and face-waxing services along with skin-care products ranging from lotions and body washes to ingrown hair serums and tweezers, is set to open this summer in Suite 105 (next to Sweet & Sassy) on Main Street, according to a news release.

European Wax Center, founded as a family business in 2004, has grown to more than 800 centers nationwide.

Centers feature private waxing suites, professionally trained estheticians and the company’s proprietary Comfort Wax, a blend of “the highest quality natural beeswax sourced from Europe plus other skin-soothing ingredients,” according to the business’ website. Info: waxcenter.com.

Another business aiming to keep you looking fresh: Paul’s Precision Cuts, offering hair-cutting services for boys and men, on March 20 held a grand opening at 2165 Mount Bethel Highway, Suite 15, in Upper Mount Bethel Township.

Owner Paul Antoniou, of Upper Mount Bethel, has been cutting and styling hair for more than a decade and previously worked at barbershops in New Jersey.

His new venture, open by appointment Tuesday through Saturday, offers a variety of barbering services, including classic cuts, fades and beard trims. Info: 570-291-7622; paulsprecisioncuts.as.me.

I’ll finish with a couple of other businesses aimed at helping you look and feel your best:

First, Vanity Haus, an esthetics center featuring full-body waxing, facials, skin therapy, lash extensions, lash lifts and eyebrow tints, opened March 1 at 701 W. Union Boulevard, Suite 2, in Bethlehem, according to a news release.

The center is owned by Mariana Franco, a former elementary and middle school English teacher of 13 years, who opened the business following her schooling, subsequent licensing as a skin care esthetician and work in the field for the past seven years.

“The reason I went into esthetics was to one day be my own boss,” Franco said in the release. “I want to show my daughter that girls can do it, too.”

Vanity Haus, open by appointment Monday through Saturday, offers a vegan and hypoallergenic hard wax for all of its full-body waxing services along with an organic, vegan and hypoallergenic pre- and post-wax skincare line. Info: vanityhauslv.com.

Lastly, The Sweetness of Salt, which opened April 10 at 42 W. Water St. in Hellertown, offers salt therapy — or halotherapy — in a dimly lit Himalayan salt cave, also known as a salt room, with nearly 2 tons of Himalayan salt on the floor and walls.

Guests relax in zero-gravity lounge chairs while enjoying calming music and experiencing the alternative wellness treatment, which involves the inhalation of salt air being emitted by halogenerators.

Studies show halotherapy can improve respiratory conditions such as asthma, chronic bronchitis and allergies, along with other health issues such as anxiety, depression and various skin conditions, including psoriasis, eczema and acne.

“Salt therapy is good for the skin, lungs, eyes — just about every part of your body,” owner Jillian Rossi said.

Rossi, of Bethlehem Township, is a seasoned reiki master and spiritual counselor. She got the idea for her new business after experiencing the benefits of salt therapy about a year ago in Florida.

Halotherapy starts at $35 per person for a 45-minute session, with discounted pricing is available for three-, five- and 10-session plans. Info: sweetnessofsalt.com.

Retail Watch, appearing every weekend, keeps track of retail and restaurant news in the Lehigh Valley. Contact Ryan Kneller at 610-820-6597 or retailwatch@mcall.com.

The right bottle of wine has the potential to do one of two things: improve your day or improve your life. And one sure way to guarantee the former and up your chances of the latter is by pairing that bottle of wine with the best wine glasses. 

Quality wine glasses will upgrade the taste, aesthetics, and enjoyment of your wine experience. There are wine glasses tailored to specific wine varieties, such as Pinot Noir or Chardonnay, as well as more versatile all-purpose wine glasses. Traditionally, most wine glasses are stemmed, but stemless glasses have become very popular in recent years as they offer a more casual, modern approach (and, practically speaking, can be less likely to be knocked over). Both crystal and glass options are available at varied price points (crystal being more expensive) and, when accompanying a commemorative bottle, they can make an excellent wedding or anniversary gift. Of course, you don’t have to reserve all of life’s little luxuries for a special occasion; the best wine glasses help you have an expertly crafted experience any time.

• Best white wine glass: Zalto Denk’Art White Wine Glasses
• Best red wine glasses: Riedel Heart to Heart Cabernet Sauvignon Glasses
• Best all-purpose wine glasses: Schott Zwiesel Vervine All-Purpose Wine Glasses
• Best stemless wine glass: Mikasa Cheers Stemless Wine Glass
• Best budget wine glasses: Libbey Signature Kentfield Estate All-Purpose Wine Glasses

Wine glasses have come a long way. Wine drinking dates back to ancient civilizations, with glasses used in Ancient Egypt as early as 1500 BC. An integral part of religious practices and secular indulgence all over the world, the art of glassware has been being perfected for hundreds of years. 

The Roman invention of glassblowing allowed for major advances. Europe has a long history of expertise in glassmaking, with Venice/Murano being the center of production. By the late 1600s/early 1700s, much of the fine European glassware was made using a mixture of minerals, including lead oxide, which led to it eventually being known as lead crystal. Adding lead oxide helped prevent cracking and created a more reflective surface. Of course, modern times have resulted in some changes. While a drinking glass made with lead is unlikely to cause any harm to the body, it is still not recommended to drink from, and lead crystal could cause damage to the body if it were used for something like a decanter, where the liquid would sit longer and lead would have the potential to seep in. With there being concerns over the safety of lead, the best wine glasses are lead-free crystal and offer the same delicate elegance, brilliance, and durability that antique lead crystal offers, but without any potential issues. 

When shopping for the best wine glasses, look for high-quality glass or lead-free crystal glass, which now uses barium oxide, zinc oxide, or potassium oxide in place of lead oxide. The glassware, much of it still made in Europe, is light in weight while remaining high in clarity and brilliance. Many crystal wine glasses are even durable enough to be dishwasher safe. Shapes and sizes have changed in popularity over the years, so ornate, carved crystal is not in fashion. The world’s finest restaurants and sommeliers instead recommend an elegant glass large enough to swirl and enjoy your wine’s clarity, bouquet, and flavor.

Related: These aerators will make your favorite wines taste even better.

Here’s a glass with the legs to showcase white wines for years to come

White wines are delicate and aromatic, and also served chilled. Due to these factors, you’ll find that white wine glasses have a longer stem than reds to reduce warming the wine with your hand. Most white wine glasses will also be smaller with shorter bowls, as a narrow bowl will concentrate the wine’s qualities, allowing the drinker to better enjoy the perfume. 

If you are trying to buy a white wine glass with a specific grape varietal in mind, keep in mind subtle differences. Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, and Dry Rieslings are considered higher in acid and prefer a smaller bowl than less acidic, more full-bodied wines like Chardonnay.

Great options are available in both stemmed and stemless designs. White wine stemless styles will typically be smaller than reds, as the wines do not need to breathe like reds to show their characteristics. Some people argue that stemless glasses might unwittingly warm the white wine, but for most average wine enthusiasts it shouldn’t be a problem.

Best white wine glass: Zalto Denk’Art White Wine Glasses

This highly rated set of two crystal wine glasses is hand-blown and feather-light, made without lead. Each glass is 9.1 inches tall, 3.2 inches wide, and holds 400ml. The shape is designed with all white wine varietals (including sparkling) in mind, and a thin lip assures each sip arrives undeterred. They’re delicate stemware for delicate wines and therefore care should be taken with handling, but the glasses are, in fact, dishwasher safe.

It’ll be a red-letter day when you try your favorite wine in this glass

There’s research that says a daily glass of red wine may be good for lowering cholesterol and heightening heart health, so if you’re going to add a nightly ritual to your life you might as well make it as pleasing as possible. Red wines can be full-bodied, medium-bodied, and light-bodied, but all benefit from taking in oxygen to the glass, known as “breathing.” Red wine will display more aroma and flavor when it is given space, which is why the best red wine glasses have larger bowls than white wine glasses. Also, the rims of red glasses are wider to allow this oxygen to reach the wine (and any aggressively earthy, oaky aromas to blow off). 

To tailor your glass to your favorite varietal, consider the body of the reds you like the best. The taller, more narrow red wine glasses are designed specifically for tightly wound and unctuous reds that need their acidity wrangled, directing Cabernet Sauvignon- and Zinfandel-based wines to the center of the tongue. While the more rounded glasses are often for medium and light reds with more delicate scents that need to linger; the wide mouths coat the tongue. These differences may sound subtle, but they can play a major role in fully enjoying your favorite red wines.

Best red wine glasses: Riedel Heart to Heart Cabernet Sauvignon Glasses

Available in sets of two, four, or eight, these Riedel wine glasses come from a manufacturer that helped pioneer the development of glasses tailored to varietals, such as this Heart to Heart series. These diamond-shaped Cabernet Sauvignon (Bordeaux) glasses are machine-blown fine crystal 9 ¾ inches tall with a capacity of 28 ¼ ounces. This well-known, well-respected dishwasher-safe product has great reviews from customers for a reason.

You’ll fuss less, indulge more with these all-purpose glasses

It’s important to note that if you are the type of wine enthusiast that enjoys it all, there is no reason to have grape-specific glassware. The best all-purpose wine glasses will work with any and all types of wine. By taking the middle ground in terms of size and shape, they become a versatile glass that won’t ruin the experience of either white, red, or rosé. The truth is the subtle nuances between varietal-focused glasses are just that—subtle—and most casual wine drinkers wouldn’t notice the difference that much. 

As with any good wine glass, the best all-purpose wine glasses, also known as universal wine glasses, will be made with care, with quality glass or lead-free crystal that offers brilliant clarity. The uniformity of universal wine glasses will also offer space savings in your cabinet.

Best all-purpose wine glasses: Schott Zwiesel Vervine All-Purpose Wine Glasses

Crafted in Germany, this set of six Schott Zwiesel glasses features a thin-walled bowl, fine stem, and wide foot made from lead-free Tritan crystal—a technology using titanium and zirconium for brilliance with added strength. Although delicate, these 9.1-inch, 23.2-ounce wine Schott Zwiesel glasses have reinforced breakage-prone zones and they hold up to the dishwasher and are chip, scratch, and stain-resistant.

Pick stemless glasses if you like a mod bod

The best stemless wine glasses are attractive, well-balanced, and comfortable to hold in your hand. Stemless wine glasses can come in the same varietal-specific (or universal) bowl shapes as traditional stemware, but losing that stem gives these an air of modernity and helps make the occasion more casual. Stemless glasses can be a smart option for parties as they are less likely to tip over when carried around and placed on a variety of surfaces. 

Some wine enthusiasts complain that stemless wine glasses are subpar because the act of holding the glass with your hand will adversely change the temperature of the wine and therefore adversely affect the taste of the wine. For most people, this is so slight that it is really a non-issue (and, besides, wines first served at proper cellar temperature evolve pleasingly in the glass as they warm). Stemless wine glasses are familiar to hold and come in a variety of styles and designs. They can bring sophistication without feeling fussy or fancy.

Best stemless wine glass: Mikasa Cheers Stemless Wine Glass

These stemless wine glasses are a great choice to bring festive flair to parties. The glass is mostly clear, but the walls offer a variety of whimsical etched patterns making it slightly easy to find your glass when in social settings. Each all-purpose glass holds 17 ounces and is produced from traditional glass, making them more durable for cocktails, soft drinks, and juices, etc., but it’s best to hand wash them. A set of eight is less than $65.

Here’s a glass that’s all-purpose on any budget

When shopping for wine glasses on a budget it makes sense to opt for an all-purpose design to handle any type of beverage. Typically, an all-purpose style is a Bordeaux shape, which is an elegant glass with a long stem that also features a slightly tapered rim (it’s a style that can also be found in stemless glasses, depending on your preference). Not only will this shape work to enhance the flavor (from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Shiraz to Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and rosé), it is a timeless look that will work for many years to come and coordinate with any style of dinnerware.

On a budget, you can expect to find factory-made glass options as opposed to handblown crystal. Look, however, for glass made with thinner walls for enhanced clarity, as well as laser-cut rims for chip-resistant edges. The best budget wine glasses will be dishwasher-safe, lead-free, and BPA-free for your health and safety.

Best budget wine glasses: Libbey Signature Kentfield Estate All-Purpose Wine Glasses

These all-purpose wine glasses hold 16 ounces or 26 ounces, depending on what you buy, allowing for plenty of room for swirling and sipping your favorite wines. They have a traditional 9-inch height (perfect for dishwashers) and are constructed with a ClearFire formula for enhanced clarity and strength. BPA-free, lead-free, and reasonably priced, these glasses are available four for under $45 and bring class to casual gatherings.

Best wine glasses FAQ: people also ask

What is the difference between glass and crystal wine glasses?

There are a few differences between glass and crystal wine glasses. The two might look similar from a distance, but crystal has a high proportion of minerals that allow it to be stronger while thinner, and to have more clarity and brilliance. Crystal refracts light, causing a special sparkle that makes it appealing for enjoying wines. Due to the increase in strength, crystal wine glasses can be lightweight yet less susceptible to breakage. While glass wine glasses can vary in cost and quality, typically crystal is associated more for special occasions due to design, styling, and cost. 

What are the best crystal wine glasses?

The best crystal wine glasses showcase crystal’s clarity, shine, and refraction of light. There are many reputable companies with a long history of quality craftsmanship, such as Schott Zwiesel, Zalto, Gabriel Glas, and, of course, Riedel wine glasses. While crystal glasses were traditionally made with minerals including lead, the best crystal wine glasses today are lead-free. Crystal glasses are available in all shapes and sizes tailored to your favorite bottles.

What is the best all-purpose wine glass?

The best all-purpose wine glass will work for all types of wines, from whites and reds to sparkling and rosés. An all-purpose design should be vertically shaped, and large enough to allow for swirling. A Bordeaux shape is the best choice to use with multiple types of wines. Look for a clear glass without bevels to allow for optimal viewing of the wine’s color and clarity.

Related: Got friends who prefer booze? Make sure you have one of the best cocktail kits.

The final word on the best wine glasses

The best wine glasses will be suited for your lifestyle and enhance the experience of enjoying your specific preferences (or just enjoying the experience of entertaining). Whether you are looking for a glass designed to enhance the flavor of your favorite bottle, or whether you want a simpler all-purpose style wine glass, there are plenty of beautiful wine glasses on the market to choose from, as we’ve shown. 

Mionetto Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore NV

Veneto, Italy, $25

Sparkling wine, both festive and food friendly, is always an appropriate gift during the holidays. If champagne isn’t in this year’s budget, you can still bestow beautiful bubbles. Prosecco is created using a different technique than champagne, one that is quicker and retains the fresh fruit and floral notes of the grapes. Iconic producer Mionetto, founded in Valdobbiadene in 1887, produces a wide range of prosecco, including a Luxury Collection with wines better suited to sipping unadorned.

One of two wines in the Luxury Collection, Mionetto Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore is produced 100 percent from the Valdobbiadene region’s finest glera grapes (an ancient synonym for prosecco now used due to a change in appellation regulations). Shining platinum to pale straw in the glass, this fully sparkling wine showcases a profusion of small beads in a gently persistent perlage. The nose is abundant with green apple and a lovely vanilla powder aroma associated with certain oncidium orchids. Tart apples are joined by pears and kumquat on the palate, while the mouth is tantalized with emphatic effervescence. Refreshing acidity is evident throughout, and the finish, more mineral than fruit, is steely dry. This stylish sparkler is a stellar companion for oysters on the half shell, Crab Imperial appetizers with mascarpone, and creamy pasta with mushrooms and prosciutto.

This is an elegant offering for $25 that will ensure your spot at next year’s soirée.

Kivelstadt Cellars The Family Secret Sauvignon Blanc 2019

Sonoma Valley, California, $21

Crisp white wines, versatile with a variety of foods, are a smart choice for the hostess who opts to open her vinous gifts sur le champ (right away). Kivelstadt Cellars was founded by Jordan Kivelstadt, whose initiation into the wine industry came when he left a corporate consulting job to pursue harvesting opportunities in several New World regions. Kivelstadt incorporates concepts from both New and Old World regions to create sustainable, and somewhat unconventional, products.

Although Kivelstadt Cellars The Family Secret is produced from 100 percent sauvignon blanc, it is by no means a traditional expression of this grape. In the glass, the wine glistens pale yellow-gold, and the nose is delightfully fruit forward, led by white peach and tropical fruit notes, but this is where any classic resemblance ends. Allowing the wine a few moments to breathe brings forth a faint yet distinct aroma of hops, both unusual and intriguing. Upon sipping, the palate is immediately met with a wave of salinity that rolls over the tongue, then breaks to invite the lime and apple flavors underneath to rise to the surface. The fruit recedes on a faintly oily finish, once again succumbing to the lingering saltiness. The wine delivers crisp acidity, making it a perfect accompaniment to party openers such as soft cheeses and bacon-wrapped scallops, or a first course of rich lobster bisque.

An aptly named gift for the host of this year’s family holiday gathering for $21.

Land of Nod Marquette 2015

Western Connecticut Highlands (East Canaan), $17

For the locabibe (one who drinks local beverages) in your life, offering a bottle of Connecticut wine will bump you to the top of next year’s guest list. Nestled in the foothills of the Berkshires in East Canaan, family-run Land of Nod Winery is a National Bicentennial Farm producing an array of fruit wines, including one from the exciting complex hybrid grape Marquette. Named after a Jesuit missionary, Marquette was created in Minnesota specifically for cold-climate states, where it is now seeing excellent results.

Land of Nod Marquette is produced from 100 percent estate-grown Marquette grapes. The wine has an intense, deep ruby hue. The nose is layered, opening with cedar and sweet tobacco aromatics imparted by American oak barrels crafted from trees grown on the winery’s own farm. The oak influence soon subsides to reveal crushed dark fruits led by blackberry, followed by a hint of baking spices. The oak unfolds as incense on the palate, where it is joined by appealing tart notes of sour cherry and wild autumn olives. This dry, medium-weight wine is well balanced with bright acidity and a touch of tannins on its smoky finish. It would make a worthy companion for holiday fare such as maple roast pork, coffee-rubbed brisket, or navy bean and escarole stew.

A truly local product for $17 that will appeal to out-of-state oenophiles and local hosts alike.

Renée B. Allen, CSW, FWS, CSS, is a wine and spirits expert and the director of the award-winning Wine Institute of New England, which offers wine and spirits education and events. Allen is a professor at the University of New Haven, a wine competition director and judge, and can be seen on WFSB’s Better Connecticut.

This article appears in the December 2020 issue of Connecticut Magazine. You can subscribe to Connecticut Magazine here, or find the current issue on sale here. Sign up for our newsletter to get our latest and greatest content delivered right to your inbox. Have a question or comment? Email editor@connecticutmag.com. And follow us on Facebook and Instagram @connecticutmagazine and Twitter @connecticutmag.

Bodega Aizpurua Txakoli 2019

Getariako Txakolina, Spain, $21

Family-owned and -operated winery Bodega Aizpurua resides in Spain’s northern Basque region, along the well-known pilgrimage route El Camino de Santiago. It has been producing the classic wines peculiar to this region for over 100 years. Txakoli is naturally light-bodied, low alcohol, and slightly fizzy. Unlike many lower-alcohol wines that have a correspondingly higher percentage of residual sugar, this wine is deliciously dry, with less than a half-gram of sugar per liter.

Aizpurua Txakoli is crafted completely from the native hondarrabi zuri grape, the dominant white variety in this region. Upon pouring this straw-yellow wine, a blanket of dainty bubbles coats the glass with the delicate effervescence characteristic of these wines. Tropical fruit and floral notes slowly rise from the glass, swayed by pineapple, which is joined on the palate by green apple and citrus. The mouthfeel is light, and bubbles, just barely detectable on the tongue, combine with crisp acidity for a fresh and lively feeling. The wine’s finish is gently caressed by a seawater brininess. Although typically paired with pintxos (tapas-like foods that highlight the local cuisine), Txakoli would be equally great company for fried oysters (raw oysters, if you’re counting calories), grilled prawns, or smoked salmon tartine. Or enjoy alone as an aperitif.

This is an exciting wine with only 11 percent ABV for a naturally lighter experience.

Cense Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2018

Marlborough, New Zealand, $18

In response to consumer demand for health-conscious options, both existing wineries and new brands specifically created for this purpose have begun producing wines lower in alcohol and calories. While almost impossible to create such wines without sacrificing something in the process, Cense Cellars has succeeded in striking a balance in its lineup of lower-calorie wines. Endorsed by Weight Watchers, Cense Cellars released its first wine in 2017, a sauvignon blanc with only 85 calories per five-ounce serving.

Cense Sauvignon Blanc is produced from grapes grown in Marlborough, a region known for making fantastically fruit-forward versions of this variety. This wine’s golden-yellow hue shines through the glass bottle. If one were to sniff this wine in a blind tasting, they would be hard-pressed to identify its “diet wine” status; its powerful aroma is redolent of lime, green melon, and grapefruit, infused with green herb undertones. The palate is brimming with citrus and tropical fruit notes, and a zesty core of acidity. The only hint at its lighter status comes on the green-apple finish, which fades a little too fast. This easy-to-drink wine will complement a multitude of salads, chicken and fresh herbs in wine sauce, and tuna steak burgers with green goddess dressing. 

Cense Sauvignon Blanc is a lower calorie wine that doesn’t leave you feeling like you’re missing out on the real thing.

Domaine de la Madone Beaujolais-Villages Le Perréon 2018

Beaujolais, France, $16

There is not a great deal of difference among red grapes when it comes to calories but, if you had to choose one, gamay would be a logical choice. Usually grown in cooler regions (less sugar) and vinified on the lower end of the ABV spectrum, gamay might help you shave a few calories off compared to those big cabs you’ve been enjoying. Domaine de la Madone has a stellar reputation for producing top-quality wines from gamay in the grape’s spiritual home of Beaujolais.

The elegant Domaine de la Madone Beaujolais-Villages Le Perréon, made from 100 percent gamay,is a stunning shade of pale purple. The bottle opens with dark-red fruit akin to boysenberries, entwined with notes of black tea leaves. The palate is complex, beginning with black currants, which are then layered with tree bark and violet licorice pastilles. Although its dark-fruit heart is evident, there is a distinctly earthy, almost savory, quality to this wine. Medium-bodied, this Beaujolais is well balanced, with velvety smooth tannins and crisp acidity accompanying the taster on their journey from beginning to end. Enjoy this food-friendly wine alongside Herbes de Provence roast chicken, chili-rubbed pork chops, and duck breast with plum sauce.

Warning: this wine is so delectable, whatever calories might be avoided by drinking gamay could reappear in that extra glass you’ll feel compelled to pour.

Renée B. Allen, CSW, FWS, CSS, is a wine and spirits expert and the director of the award-winning Wine Institute of New England, which offers wine and spirits education and events. Allen is a professor at the University of New Haven, a wine competition director and judge, and can be seen on WFSB’s Better Connecticut.

This article appears in the April 2021 issue of Connecticut Magazine. You can subscribe to Connecticut Magazine here, or find the current issue on sale here. Sign up for our newsletter to get our latest and greatest content delivered right to your inbox. Have a question or comment? Email editor@connecticutmag.com. And follow us on Facebook and Instagram @connecticutmagazine and Twitter @connecticutmag.

This episode of “Wine 101” is sponsored by J Vineyards and Winery. For over 30 years, J Vineyards and Winery has developed a reputation as one of the top sparkling and varietal wine producers in California. With styles from bright and bubbly to bold and complex, J Wines offer a remarkable range and exceptional craftsmanship that you’ll want to share. J has come to be known for its celebrated estate vineyards, contemporary winery, and world-class hospitality. Uncork joy with J, and let life bubble over.

In this episode of “Wine 101,” VinePair tastings director Keith Beavers discusses France’s Rhône Valley. Listeners will learn about all the appellations that make up the region that produces some of the finest red and white wines in the world.

Listeners will also learn about the unique differences between the northern and southern Rhône. The northern Rhône produces 5 percent of the total wine in the Rhône Valley and is best known for its Syrah and Viognier. The southern Rhône produces the other 95 percent of the region’s wine and is more commonly found on the American market. Despite these distinctions, Beavers explains why wines from both Rhône Valley regions are worth tasting.

Tune in to become an expert on the Rhône Valley and its wines.

Listen Online

Listen on Apple Podcasts

Listen on Spotify

Or Check out the Conversation Here

Keith Beavers: My name is Keith Beavers, and I went down a duet rabbit hole this weekend. And I gotta say, “Endless Love” or “Baby Come to Me” are the best duets out there. I miss karaoke so much.

What’s going on, wine lovers? Welcome to Episode 13 of VinePair’s “Wine 101 Podcast,” Season 2. My name is Keith Beavers. I’m the tasting director of VinePair. How are you doing?

I’m sure you see Côtes du Rhône or Rhône wine all over the place. Every supermarket, every wine shop. Let’s break it down a little bit to understand, what is the Rhône? What are we doing here? What’s the Rhône? It’s wonderful.

I feel like the words “Côtes du Rhône” American wine drinkers are very familiar with. And it seems like everywhere you go in the United States, no matter whether it’s a wine shop or a boutique wine shop, a liquor store, or a supermarket, there’s always a Côtes du Rhône in the French section. I also feel that Côtes du Rhône is very popular in America, but it’s not so popular like Malbec, where everyone’s ravenous for it. It’s almost a go-to European wine for Americans, which is really cool. The thing is, Côtes du Rhône is just one wine that comes from the Rhône Valley in France.

When you buy an affordable Côtes du Rhône on a Tuesday night for burgers, you’re just scratching the surface of the possibilities of what you can enjoy from the Rhône. Partly why we’re secretly obsessed with Côtes du Rhône wine and the reason why it’s on all the shelves, I think, is because in the 1980s, there was a small group of winemakers in California. One of them was Randall Grahm from Bonny Doon. There was Bob Lindquist from Qupé. They decided it was their mission in life to make wine from varieties that were native to the Rhône Valley. These were grapes that were just sitting around in California in vineyards, not really being paid attention to. They decided to grab that by the horns and create this new style of California wine at a time when Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay were the dominant wines of the region.

I believe this is the moment in our history where we started being curious about wines made from grapes that are pretty much native to or thrive in the Rhône Valley. Today, besides just the ubiquitous Côtes du Rhône wine, which is awesome and we’re going to get to it, but there are so many other great wines from the Rhône. You may not know it because it doesn’t say Côtes du Rhône on the bottle all the time. Let’s get you familiar with the Rhône wine region of France, because the Rhône Valley growing region of France has a dual personality. Let’s get into it.

The Rhône River begins in a mountain reservoir in south-central Switzerland. It then flows west through Switzerland, through the Alps. It dumps into Lake Geneva, and then continues on the other side of that lake, eventually making its way into France. Once this river gets into France, it starts to head south. As it gets further south, when it gets past the town of Lyon, it begins to cut through the Central Massif and the Alps. The Central Massif is that large piece of land we talked about in the Burgundian episode. From Lyon, it goes south and cuts through a very continental climate full of schist and granite. As it moves south, it leaves this continental granite-like land and goes into a more Mediterranean climate, where the land flattens out a little bit. It’s a lot warmer. And eventually, it dumps into the Mediterranean. This is the Rhône River.

The thing about the Rhône River is it is one of the major trade rivers throughout the history of Europe. Thus, humans have been hanging out around this river for a very long time. Wine has been around for a long time. This is Europe. This is France. We had the Greeks doing it. We had the Romans there. The dukes of Burgundy were there. Wine has been made for a long time in a lot of places in Europe. As usual, the history is deep, complex with twists and turns. I love it, and I can’t talk all about it, but just know that there’s been human activity here for a very long time. One of the reasons why we can’t get into all these really fun and cool stories is because this region is pretty huge. It spans 150 miles of the Rhône River, from Lyon down to the Mediterranean. From Lyon, going south, the first 60 or so miles of this river is what is considered the northern Rhône. It’s one section of the Rhône wine-growing region.

Then there’s about a 25-miles-or-so gap along the river between vineyards. Then, the last 60 miles or so is what is called the southern Rhône. A good way to start understanding this region is that there is the northern Rhône and then there was the southern Rhône. With that big gap between the two wine-growing regions, it’s pretty interesting why it’s all one region. It’s all in this one valley, but they are very different wine regions within this region. It’s almost as if a wine-growing region has dual personalities. The northern part of the Rhône only produces about 5 percent of the total output of the entire region. It’s here in these granite, poor soils that hug the Rhône River where Syrah shines the brightest. This is also the area where they believe the vine was first cultivated in this area when it was called Gaul back in the day before the Romans.

In the northern Rhône, Syrah is the only red variety allowed to be grown and made into wine. For white, it’s a grape called Viognier. For the northern Rhône, because it produces so much less than the south, I can get a little bit into it. The most northern appellation of the northern Rhône is an appellation called Côte-Rôtie, otherwise known as the roasted slope. It’s named that because of the way the vineyards are trained. They get a ton of sun but what you guys should know about the Côte-Rôtie region is that it is small and the majority of the wines are expensive. The unique thing about this appellation is that they often blend Syrah with the white wine Viognier. It’s an absolutely stunning result for a wine. You have this roasted, peppery, awesome Syrah blended with this very floral, aromatic Viognier, which makes these awesome, supple, smooth wines. They’re expensive, but if you get a chance, wow.

Now, this is on the left bank of the river. As we keep going south on the left bank, we hit the next appellation called Condrieu. I’m so bad at French. But this wine appellation only does Viognier. It’s a small appellation so it can be expensive but this appellation is how America fell in love with Viognier. If you see Viognier a lot in California, that is because of the popularity of this appellation. When done right, Viognier is stunning, almost dizzying with its floral notes, very aromatic. It’s a very satisfying white wine when it’s done in small quantities and this appellation does it.

Still in that bank of the river going south, you hit this large appellation called Saint-Joseph. You will see a good amount of Saint-Joseph on the market. If it’s red, it’s going to be all Syrah. It gets very close to the crazy, pure expressions I’ll talk about in a second but it’s awesome. It’s affordable, spicy, peppery, and it’s good. They also make white wine, and it’s not Viognier. There are two other white wine varieties in the Rhône that are often made and blended together with a grape by the name of Marsanne and a grape by the name of Roussanne. The wines made from these grapes are super cool. They’re almost savory, a little bit peppery, oily but not in a bad way. It has a viscosity to them, beautiful stuff. White Saint-Joseph would probably be a blend of one of those two, not Viognier. Viognier stops at Condrieu.

From the middle of Saint-Joseph, if you cross the river over to the right bank, there is a hill right on the river. That hill is full of granite, and it is its own little appellation that makes some of the best, most expressive Syrah in the world. If you follow me on Instagram @VinePairKeith, at one point I had an opportunity to taste one of these wines recently. No words, it will blow your mind. Some of the smokiest, peppery, savoriest, umami-est, concentrated, age-worthy wine in the world is grown on the Hill of Hermitage. It’s named after a knight that was in the Crusades. He came back and ended up being a hermit on that hill. It’s a legend. I don’t even know if it’s real or not, but this is it. This is the pinnacle of Syrah. It’s expensive stuff.

Wines from Hermitage will age 30 years or more. This is where Syrah is. It’s everything, but it’s expensive. It’s almost impossible to approach, only on special occasions and all that. However, what’s really awesome is there’s a larger appellation that surrounds that small little hill. It’s called Crozes-Hermitage. This area also grows primarily Syrah. It’s not just going to have that crazy concentration as you would get in Hermitage, but it’s a larger appellation, and it is an awesome expression of Syrah. Whereas Saint-Joseph is dark, smoky, easy to drink, and more depth of fruit, the Syrah from Crozes-Hermitage has this awesome bright, cinnamon orange peel feel to them, along with the pepper and along with the savory. They’re a little bit lighter, they’re a little more acidity, they’re very approachable. They do whites here as well, and it’s usually a blend of Roussanne and Marsanne. But it’s the Syrah’s in Crozes-Hermitage that I think is a great introduction to a Syrah from the northern Rhône. Then, you can move around from there, but Crozes-Hermitage is an awesome place.

Back over on the left bank just south of Saint-Joseph, is one of the smallest wine regions in France called Cornas. This place is the deep, dark, concentrated wine that Saint-Joseph can’t be. It is a nice, age-worthy alternative to the craziness of Hermitage. The Syrahs in Cornas are deep, dark, and smoky and have almost a mocha-heaviness to them. They’re just powerful wines and they can age a long time as well, but they’re approachable earlier than the wines of Hermitage. That’s basically the northern Rhône we’re going to see on the market. There are a couple of other small things going on in the northern Rhône that we don’t really see so much here. There is an estate that is literally one appellation. There’s also an area that does sparkling wine from Roussanne and Marsanne, but you’re not going to see a lot of that here.

With the northern Rhône, if you noticed when you see the wine labels, you’re going to see Saint-Joseph, you’re going to see Condrieu. You’re not going to see Côtes du Rhône. You’re just going to see those words. The northern Rhône is not something you’ll see on a label, but those appellations I just mentioned are what you will see. If you see Saint-Joseph, you know, “OK, northern Rhône, that’s only Syrah, I got it.”

Now, everything changes 25 miles south of the northern Rhône. The northern Rhône is basically 5 percent of the total output of the Rhône region. The southern Rhône is the other 95 percent. The majority of the wine from the Rhône that we see on the market, in the United States, is from the southern Rhône. It is huge! It’s very flat land. It’s not as hilly and granitic as far as the continental climate. We’re in a Mediterranean climate here. It sprawls out and is centered around this city called Orange. This is a much warmer area. It gets more sun, and Syrah doesn’t jive well in this area. It doesn’t ripen that well. Down here, there’s a whole different list of varieties that are used that are not used in the north. There’s a couple, but not much. Actually, there are well over 20 varieties of grape that are allowed to be used in the southern Rhône to make wine. It’s crazy.

This is where Châteauneuf-du-Pape is, one of the most famous noble wine regions in France, in the southern Rhône. This is the area where the blueprint for the appellation system of France, which inspired every other country, this is where it began. And part of it was in response to fraud because of the popularity of the wine in the area. Crazy cool story, I wish I could tell you all of it but what I will say, what’s important is the number of varieties that are used in this place is a result of that. It was a list of varieties that were in the area that could be used. To this day, you can still use them. The thing is, the majority of the winemakers in this area basically use two varieties, Grenache and Mourvèdre. There are other varieties like Carignan, Counoise, and Cinsault were other red varieties of grapes they used to blend into it.

Then, there are all these other varieties you can use, and that’s a general statement. Trends change because Mourvèdre is more popular today. It wasn’t always that popular, but those are the main varieties. There are all these other varieties that winemakers can use to make small amounts and blends to make the individual wines their own. There’s some white wine here, but the Rhône Valley in general, wine lovers, is a red wine region. There is white wine being made in the south, Châteauneuf-du-Pape does have white wine and in some other areas and it’s usually going to be a blend of Roussanne and Marsanne. It’s just a very, comparatively, extremely small amount.

This is how the southern Rhône shakes out for you guys to understand. It’s a three-tiered system. I want to start from the outside, and I’m going to work in. At the beginning of this episode, I talked about a wine called Côtes du Rhône. This category is almost 50 percent of the entire output of the Rhône. If the southern Rhône has 95 percent of the output, the majority of the Côtes du Rhône that you’re buying for $15 a bottle is going to be from the southern Rhône. Now, some of the grapes might be sourced from the northern Rhône. Côtes du Rhône AOC appellation from France can have wine from anywhere in the valley, north or south. That’s almost 200 villages with vines they can source from. That’s why it’s usually good, young burger wine.

Then there’s Côtes-du-Rhône Villages. You remember the village idea from the Burgundy episode. It’s basically villages. This is a category of wine in the Rhône where you’re getting a little more geographical. You’re not necessarily going to be sourcing from all over the Rhône. You’re sourcing from 48 specific villages and the vines within those villages. Those villages at some point, if they gain reputation in recognition, can be elevated to the next category. That category is Côtes-du-Rhône Villages as well, but with a geographical name. Right now, and it’ll always change, but there are 21 villages that can put their names on the label. I can’t go through all the names now and some are pretty long, but when you’re going to a wine shop you can say, “Can I get a Côtes-du-Rhône Villages with a geographical name to it?” They’ll know what you’re talking about.

The next level itself is an actual appellation. You’ve gone from Côtes-du-Rhône in general, to Côtes-du-Rhône Villages, to Côtes-du-Rhône Villages with an actual geographical name, to that geographical name becoming the actual appellation. That’s when we have Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Vacqueyras, and Gigondas. Actually, before 2009, I sold Côtes-du-Rhône Rasteau, which was a village with a geographical name. Then, after 2009, a couple of vintages later, I sold just “Rasteau” because it was elevated from a village with a geographical name to an actual appellation. It’s crazy, it’s wine. This stuff happens all the time. In all these Gigondas and Vacqueyras that I mention, when you see the bottle, it’s just going to say that. It’s not going to say Côtes-du-Rhône, it’s just going to say Vacqueyras, Gigondas, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

These are all wines that are blends of what is being used in the area, but because of their terroir and because of their traditions of making wine in those areas, they are different. Therefore, they can be separated out and called their own thing. It’s how wine works. If you guys have ever had Châteauneuf-du-Pape or any of the wines from the southern Rhône that are actually from these deep concentrated appellations, is they’re big, full-bodied wines. Across the river from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône River, is one of the only primarily rosé regions in France called Tavel. Provence does a bunch of rosé, but they also do red wine and white wine.

Tavel only does rosé. This is very cool. The varieties are Grenache, Mourvèdre, and a little bit of Claret, which is a white blending variety. These rosés are deep ruby red. They’re refreshing and serve chilled, of course, but they have moderate acidity. There’s more weight on the palate, but they are savory. You sometimes get a little bit of tannin in there, and what’s cool about the rosé wines of Tavel is that they actually age. I’ve heard of them aging up to 10 years, but the norm is five years. They don’t get a lot of play on the American market, but when you find one, grab it. They’re really cool, and they’re awesome with food.

All right, guys, that is a Rhône Valley snapshot. That is the Rhône. Now, you can go out there into wine shops, go to the Rhône section and say, “I know what all of that means. Is that a Châteauneauf-du-Pape? That’s 100 percent Syrah. Syrah is really good. Oh, Gigondas? I know the blend.”

That is going to be so much fun. Enjoy!

@VinePairKeith is my Insta. Rate and review this podcast wherever you get your podcast from. It really helps get the word out there. And now, for some totally awesome credits.

“Wine 101” was produced, recorded, and edited by yours truly, Keith Beavers, at the VinePair headquarters in New York City. I want to give a big ol’ shout-out to co-founders Adam Teeter and Josh Malin for creating VinePair. And I mean, a big shout-out to Danielle Grinberg, the art director of VinePair, for creating the most awesome logo for this podcast. Also, Darbi Cicci for the theme song. Listen to this. And I want to thank the entire VinePair staff for helping me learn something new every day. See you next week.

Champagne Drappier Carte d’Or Brut NV

Champagne, France, $45

For those resolving to eat a plant-based diet in 2021, there are a number of excellent champagnes that forgo the use of animal-derived agents (such as albumin, isinglass and gelatin) during the clarification process. Champagne Drappier, with roots in Urville that go back to the early 1800s, was the first family to plant pinot noir in Côte des Bars in the 1930s. Today, this historic champagne house, led by Michel Drappier, enjoys a stellar reputation for the quality of their pinot noir-based bubbly, a style embodied by their Champagne Carte d’Or.

Crafted from a blend comprising 80 percent pinot noir, Drappier Carte d’Or is the golden color of sunshine captured in a glass, its richly saturated hue in part due to a philosophy of more natural winemaking with minimal use of sulfur. Diminutive bubbles swiftly rise like fireworks ascending from the depths of a liquid gold ocean, repeatedly forming elegant rings at the surface. The nose is abundant with apples and orchard stone fruits, and hints of vanilla and pastry dough. The mouthfeel is generous, showcasing yellow apples, candied citrus, and Drappier’s signature quince note. Red currants, pursued by wet gravel, emerge on the finish. The wine is perfectly balanced, with focused acidity and an integration that is nearly flawless. Sip this sparkler with fried squash blossoms, chickpea burgers, and vegan sushi.

Complex and exuberant, this champagne is worth every penny of its $45 price tag.

Skeleton Grüner Veltliner 2019

Burgenland, Austria, $10

The philosophy behind Skeleton Wines appears as bare bones as the crisp, minimalist graphics on their labels. The company’s self-professed mission is to showcase the most popular grape varieties from around the world. They currently offer a wine produced from Austria’s flagship white grape, grüner veltliner, estate bottled by Adolf and Heinrich Fuchs. At one point dubbed “gru-vee,” and even “groovy,” to overcome marketing hurdles presented by the tongue-twisting name, grüner veltliner is a zesty and particularly affordable wine.

In the glass, Skeleton Grüner Veltliner is a bright, spirit-lifting canary yellow. The nose offers an inviting pastiche of pears and lime-scented geraniums, sprinkled with grüner veltliner’s characteristic white pepper notes. Citrus oil and tropical fruits, led by papaya, awaken the palate on the attack. Beeswax gently blankets the tastebuds on the midpalate, riddled by a refreshing acidity that manifests as an intense and flinty minerality. White pepper has a spicy and pleasing presence throughout, most notably on the finish of this vegan wine. Often consigned to summer sipping, grüner veltliner is an engaging wine for year-round enjoyment. Refreshing on its own, this wine would also be an excellent choice to accentuate white asparagus soup, Vietnamese lemongrass pho with rice noodles, and vegan pesto-stuffed sweet potatoes.

There’s a lot here to like, literally. Enjoy one full liter for a mere $10. Now that’s groovy.

Keuka Lake Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2018

Finger Lakes, New York, $22

After becoming enamored of the Finger Lakes region during a visit, Mel Goldman left a career in industrial and agricultural development in developing countries to plant vineyards in Hammondsport. With small-plot vineyards planted on slopes rising above the southern end of Keuka Lake, the moderating effects of the Finger Lakes help ripen several hybrid and European grape varieties, including cabernet franc, a native French grape involved in the natural cross that resulted in cabernet sauvignon. Goldman has been producing all vegan wines at Keuka Lake Vineyards for at least the past 10 years.

Keuka Lake Vineyards Cabernet Franc is produced entirely from cabernet franc. This wine’s translucent ruby hue simply shines in the glass. Sour cherry and plum, accompanied by sweet marjoram notes, immediately introduce themselves. Fruit aromas slowly unravel to reveal a subtle hint of wood that has been softened by the use of neutral oak barrels. Cherry transforms to luscious raspberry and blackberry on the palate, with well-balanced acid making an appearance on the finish. Tannins are detectable but tame. More refined than robust, this silky wine is produced in the Old World style of a Chinon from the Loire Valley. A versatile wine to accompany an array of dishes, this red is an ideal pairing partner for mushroom bourguignon, green lentil curry, and ratatouille over squash ribbons.

For a reasonable $22, this well-structured and approachable wine is a great choice for red wine-loving vegans.

Renée B. Allen, CSW, FWS, CSS, is a wine and spirits expert and the director of the award-winning Wine Institute of New England, which offers wine and spirits education and events. Allen is a professor at the University of New Haven, a wine competition director and judge, and can be seen on WFSB’s Better Connecticut.

This article appears in the January 2021 issue of Connecticut Magazine. You can subscribe to Connecticut Magazine here, or find the current issue on sale here. Sign up for our newsletter to get our latest and greatest content delivered right to your inbox. Have a question or comment? Email editor@connecticutmag.com. And follow us on Facebook and Instagram @connecticutmagazine and Twitter @connecticutmag.