Jack’s is back. There are oysters. And not just Blue Points, but a half-dozen varieties in a mix of East and West Coasters. Fresh shucked to order, fried to a crisp bubble in buttermilk batter with a smite of wasabi and citrus aioli, or baked as Rockefellers with mascarpone creamed spinach and Parmesan gratin. Oh, you like the sweet cucumber-melon taste of a Pacific Northwest Kusshi? Slurp it down with a cucumber vermouth mignonette and a glass of Cremant Brut.
In addition to a-la-carte options is a seven-course tasting menu, available Friday and Saturday nights, which allows the restaurant’s new executive chef, Elliott Vogel to creatively flex while respecting the traditions of a grande-dame institution. Portions are surprisingly big, making it a good value despite the $105-per-head hit. Add the wine pairing if your pockets run deep; they’re equally generous pours.