Vineyards

If you’re interested in escaping from the big smoke for a day or two, why not travel south of London to Dorking in Surrey.

Dorking is a picturesque market town that has plenty on offer, from beautiful countryside walks with the family, to a stunning vineyard that will make you forget all about London.

Here are My London’s top picks for the best things to do in Dorking.

For those who love to walk

The Deepdene Trail in Dorking is well loved by humans and animals too, as the walk is dog friendly.

It feels like something from a fairy tale, with wonderful animal statues and enchanting stairs accompanied with turrets and balconies.

The Stepping Stones walk in Box Hill is exactly what it sounds like and is a lovely walk that all of the family can do and is an iconic landmark that crosses over water and land.

There’s even a natural play trail for children to follow and the interesting topsy-turpsy grave, where Major Peter Labelliere requested to be buried upside down.

Another walk, known as ‘Walk the Chalk’, promises outstanding views of the North Downs.

The walk has a rich history too, as its viewpoints were vital for soldiers during World War Two.

It’s perfect for a sunny day and visitors will discover the finest chalkland in Surrey, fields of crops, railways and old estates along the way.

For those who like to drink

Amazingly, Dorking has its own brewery, vineyard and gin kitchen, which is perfect for those who like a little bit of fun when visiting new places.

Dorking’s multi-award winning brewery boasts a wide range of beers, which visitors can sample as they walk around the farm-like setting.

A real hidden gem though, is Denbies Wine Estate, their beautiful vineyards could easily be mistaken for the South of France.

Tours run from day to night and there’s even a hotel too, ideal if you don’t want to say bye to the breathtaking scenery just yet.

The Gin Kitchen is another fabulous venue which offers tasting experiences and has its very own cocktail bar.

Located in the heart of Surrey Hills, this is just another great drinking destination surrounded by stunning views.

For those who want to learn about Dorking’s history

If you’re a keen historian and want to get stuck in with Dorking’s heritage, why not visit the Dorking Museum and Heritage Centre?

The museum has hundreds of oil paintings of Dorking’s amazing countryside, which has been a major attraction and muse for many artists who come to visit.

While a deep history into Dorking’s involvement with World War One will have you appreciating the area even more, the museum offers an insight into how World War One impacted Dorking and the people who lived there.

It’s run by passionate volunteers and is independently funded by the public.

How to get there from London

If you’re travelling by car, it will take you on average an hour and a half to get to Dorking.

By train is slightly quicker, you can travel to Dorking from Victoria or Waterloo station in around 50 minutes.

And if you’re organised with your timings, a super-off peak day return will cost you as little as £10.10, almost as cheap as chips.

Where’s your favourite place to go outside of London? Let us know in the comments section here.

There is probably nobody in the entire world who could not name at least one or two of the sights Paris is famous for. I mean, who hasn’t heard of the Eiffel Tower? But, after calling Paris home for six years, I have not only ticked off all the well-known sights, but I’ve also discovered quite a few unusual ones. That is the best thing about spending a longer amount of time in a place. You have the leisure to turn onto streets you would normally walk past, or to get off at metro stops most people have never even heard of.

Some places in Paris that were deemed hidden have since been discovered by quite a few visitors. These include the many Statues of Liberty dotted around the city and the apartment of Gustave Eiffel in the Eiffel Tower.

But here, I want to share some of the more obscure places I have discovered — places that truly took me by surprise. If it is your first time in Paris, then, by all means, do tick off those world-famous sights; they are truly amazing. But if you have a bit of extra time on your hands — or if you have been there, done that, but still love Paris and are always open to new experiences — then these are for you.

1. The City’s Windmills

Montmartre was once a village in the countryside, far away from Paris. Its hills were dotted with dozens of windmills. Today, there are two windmills left in Montmartre — the Moulin du Radet (1717) and the Moulin Blute-Fin (1604) — in addition to the fake one on the cabaret Moulin Rouge.

But there are others around Paris that nary a visitor knows about. The Moulin de la Tour stands in the suburb of Ivry-sur-Seine, just across the Peripherique in the south of Paris. It dates to 1680, and you can go inside. There’s a windmill without sails inside the Montparnasse Cemetery. You’ll also find windmills at the edge of the Longchamp Racecourse by the Bois de Boulogne and in the suburbs of Puteaux and Nanterre.

Pro Tip: Why not have coffee at the Cafe des Deux Moulins, which rose to fame in the film Amelie (2001)? The interior has not changed, and the name fits. 

2. La Petite Ceinture

La Petite Ceinture (“The Small Belt”) was a railway that once circled Paris. It connected the suburbs and industrial areas with the main hubs of the city. Sadly, it went out of commission with the rise of the metro. Over time, it became an urban jungle, with nature reclaiming large parts of the tracks. Recently, however, stretches of La Petite Ceinture have opened to the public as walking tracks, sports venues, and local gardening areas. Many of the stations have been reinvented as restaurants, cafes, and music venues. My favorite place to walk along it is in the 15th arrondissement, between Place Balard and the Parc George Brassens, where you’ll find a small vineyard. A book market takes place every Saturday morning under the old livestock market’s roof.

Pro Tip: Have brunch at La Recyclerie near the famous flea markets. It’s a relaxed cafe full of recycled stuff, with its own small farm — including a beehive! — alongside the tracks.

3. A Roman Amphitheater

Fittingly, Paris’s Latin Quarter is home to a Roman amphitheater — but it is so hidden away that most people don’t even know it’s there! The Arenes de Lutece (called so because Paris was known as Lutetia under the Romans) is an impressive theater that would have once seated some 17,000 people, twice the population of non-Roman Lutetia. Nestled between the Place Monge and the Jardin des Plantes, it is a peaceful park generally only visited by picnickers and children playing ball.

Pro Tip: A market is held three mornings each week on the Place Monge. 

4. The Basilica Cathedral Of Saint Denis

This medieval cathedral is sadly overlooked by many visitors to Paris, probably because it is officially located in Saint-Denis, a suburb of the city. Yet it is right off the metro and one of the most important historic sites in France. The building dates to the 1100s and has incredible stained glass windows throughout, as well as high Gothic arches. In its necropolis are the remains of 42 kings, 32 queens, 63 princes and princesses, and 10 other historical figures, including Saint Denis, the patron saint of France. Marble effigies of said royalty lie in state, adding to the splendor of the setting.

Pro Tip: Visit on a Tuesday, Friday, or Sunday morning and have coffee and a croissant on the terrace of Le Khedive Cafe, from which you can watch the hustle and bustle of the market right in front of the cathedral. 

5. An Inner-City Reservoir

In the 14th arrondissement of Paris, next to the lovely residential Square de Montsouris, and steps away from one of my favorite parks, the Parc Montsouris, stands the imposing Reservoir Montsouris, built in 1873. Its steep stone walls are dotted with the daintiest glass structures that belie the huge amount of water carried by the underground structure of 1,800 columns. The structure can be visited on National Heritage Days, which usually take place in September.

Pro Tip: There is another reservoir on the Rue Copernic in Passy, steps away from the lovely Place Victor Hugo with its many cafes and restaurants. 

6. A Pet Cemetery

The Cemetery of Dogs and Other Domestic Animals, sometimes called simply the Dog Cemetery, is one of the oldest pet cemeteries — if not the oldest — in the world. It’s been open since 1899. Located in the suburb of Asnieres-sur-Seine, it is worth a side trip. Here lie numerous beloved pets, from ordinary cats, dogs, and rabbits to famous names like Rin Tin Tin, the Hollywood pooch of World War I fame. There are also monuments to chickens, sheep, a monkey, and World War I trench horses.

Many of the graves are more elaborate than those for humans in other cemeteries, but the inscription on one chicken’s stone is my favorite: “To my affectionate hen, who lived for 16 years, a faithful inseparable companion, mourned by your mistress who remains inconsolable. To you I was attached, and you will never be forgotten.”

Pro Tip: Take the metro to Gabriel Peri, and then walk toward the Seine along Avenue Gabriel Peri. The cemetery is right on the banks of the Seine, and you’ll enter not through the main gate, but through the small gate next to it. For 3 euros, you’ll receive a map of the cemetery highlighting the most interesting residents.

7. Art Nouveau Buildings

Hector Guimard (1867–1942) is best known for his superb green art nouveau metro entrances. They are dotted across Paris, with some of the best examples at the Porte Dauphine and Abbesses metro entrances. So iconic, so Parisian, and so lovely. If you love his style, then pop down to the 16th arrondissement for some superb examples of Guimard’s architecture. Castel Beranger at 14 Rue Jean de la Fontaine is probably the finest example of his work. The entrance, the hallway, and the balconies are simply stunning. Steps away on the same street is the Hotel Mezzara, and just around the corner stands the Hotel Guimard (122 Avenue Mozart). 

Pro Tip: For a tiny-yet-adorable Hector Guimard architectural gem, stop at Cravan at 17 Rue de la Fontaine. The coffee is good, too. 

8. The Mouzaia Quarter

Off the Rue de Mouzaia near the lovely Buttes Chaumont Park are several tiny cobbled streets filled with tiny houses with tiny gardens. No tourists ever come here, yet this quarter is too picturesque for words. Walk up from the park or the Botzaris metro stop to Villa d’Alsace. Then thread back to the next street, Villa Eugene Leblanc, and so on, until you have explored the entire quarter, taken countless pictures, and started looking up real-estate listings for your many dream homes.

Pro Tip: On the corner of Rue de Crime and Rue Manin by the park, you can see the old train tracks of La Petite Ceinture.

Highway 101 in Mendocino County, California, parallels the Russian River and passes through land settled by Italian immigrants with names like Parducci, Barra, Graziano, and Testa. Their legacy lives on in the 100-year-old vineyards that populate the area. There are wineries still run by the fourth- and fifth-generation heirs who grew up on this land with winemaking in their blood.

The best way to experience these incredible wines is to follow the Coro Mendocino Wine Trail. Coro Mendocino is the first wine to set strict parameters distinctive to its region in the United States. Honoring the “Old Italian” field blends, each Coro wine starts with Zinfandel a minimum of 40 percent and then blended for up to nine named varietals. Another unique feature is that winemakers must go through four blind tastings to be worthy of the Coro Label. These tastings are infamous in the area for being brutal, but with the input of fellow winemakers, the results are a better wine.

Pro Tip: If you fly Alaska Airlines, you can bag check a case of wine for free. Such a bonus.

Greenwood Ridge Vineyards

Greenwood Ridge Vineyards is a lovely winery that is a little off the beaten path. It is just off Highway 128 in Philo. It takes a windy mountain road to get here but is well worth the drive. The tasting room is in the Anderson Valley and you will pass through some darling small towns to get here. The tasting room is built from a 400-year-old redwood that fell on the property. That one tree provided enough lumber for the building. You won’t be able to try their limited edition Coro Mendocino because it is reserved for wine club members. Instead, try the Islands in the Sky Pinot Noir, named after the guest house, which sits just above the fog line. There is a lovely courtyard to enjoy an outdoor tasting with views of the mountains and the charming property with ponds, ducks, and beautiful landscaping. Make sure to check out the grapevines in the front of the winery, which have signs for each varietal.

Next, head to Hopland, which has tasting rooms right in town.

Brutocao Family Vineyards

The tasting room for Brutocao Family Vineyards is housed in the old schoolhouse built in 1920. It is a very unique site for a tasting room. The plaza outside has six Olympic regulation bocce ball courts with leagues playing throughout the year. Farmers for four generations, they have a deep love for their land, which includes three different vineyards giving the winemaker plenty of options. Speaking of winemakers, Hoss Milone is a fourth-generation winemaker who grew up in his own family’s vineyards, learning the ropes from his grandfather and father. His daughter Ally Milone works in the tasting room as well. Brutocao has crafted a Coro Mendocino every vintage since its inception in 2001. They are known for their Italian varietals and make a variety of Italian wines.

Graziano Family Of Wines

The Graziano family began growing grapes in Mendocino County in 1918. Now, the fourth generation is keeping that spirit alive at the Graziano Family of Wines. Their tasting room in Hopland is the least scenic one I visited. It is a small shop in Hopland, but it was the most fun to visit thanks to the tasting room host, John Reagh. His warm, welcoming personality is infectious. He greeted me by popping open a bottle of Brut Scandalous Cuvee #12, so named by the owner because it was so scandalous to include an Italian varietal (Arneis) in French champagne-style wine. By the time I left, John had ensured that everyone left the tasting as friends.

Pro Tip: Make sure to try the Monte Volpe Lapel wines. I loved the Primo Rosso, a blend of old-world varietals including Zinfandel, Primitivo, Carignane, Petite Sirah, and Syrah. It is aged in oak barrels for five years. It is unbelievable to find a wine of this caliber for $12 a bottle. It is similar to a Coro Mendocino but at a much lower price point.

Testa Vineyards

The Testa Vineyards are some of the oldest in Mendocino County. Craggy old vines with deep roots surround the tasting room which is one of the most scenic on the Coro Mendocino Wine Trail. This family farm was established in 1912 by Italian immigrants. The fourth- and fifth-generation descendants work together to produce award-winning wines. On your visit, you may even see the sixth generation toddling around absorbing what the land has to offer. Winemaker Maria Martinson is surrounded by over 100 years of history, and it is in her thoughts as she crafts wines honoring her heritage. Their first wines were simply called Black and White after the old Italians called the field blends of red and white wines. On the Testa Ranch, varietals planted include Carignane, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Barbera, Grenache, and Charbono, while in the Gusto vineyard, you will find Hillside Cabernet Sauvignon. Make sure to try the Coro Mendocino. Maria’s blend is Old Vine Zinfandel, Carignane, Charbono, and Petite Sirah grapes, all handpicked from their estate vineyards. This is one special wine.

Pro Tip: If you like to camp, check out the Harvest Hosts program, which allows you to camp for free at wineries and farms throughout the country for a $99 membership fee. You must have a self-contained RV with a toilet, water tank, and inside cooking facilities. No tents. There is no charge to camp, but you are asked to support the wineries and farms by purchasing their products. Testa Vineyards are a Harvest Host.

Disclaimer: Maria is my husband’s cousin, so I admit I am partial to the family wine.

Barra Of Mendocino

 The Barra of Mendocino tasting room is so unique. The building was designed to look like an upside-down champagne glass. The round building with a fountain in the middle is just a delight. Views from the windows show vineyards and mountains in the distance. I had the opportunity to spend some time with Martha Barra, who shared the story of their founder, Charlie. He was born in 1926 to Italian immigrants whose family had worked vineyards dating back to the mid-1800s. He grew up learning grapes from his time in his father’s vineyard before establishing his own farm in 1955. Barra wines are all made from 100 percent estate-grown organic grapes. The quality shows in the wonderful wines produced here. Their lower-priced line, Girasole Vineyards, offers surprisingly good wines at under $20 a bottle.

Coro Mendocino Trail

There are four more wineries on the trail, all located right off Highway 101 near Ukiah and Hopland. Parducci Wine Cellars is the oldest continuously operating winery in Mendocino County. Golden Vineyards and DNA Vineyards do not have tasting rooms, but you can try them at Sip Mendocino in Hopland. Jaxon Keys Winery is housed in an 1880 Farmhouse Tasting Room. It sits amidst their 1,250-acre ranch in Hopland. The deck overlooks the Russian River and the vineyards. What a great place to enjoy some wine.

Pro Tips

Since the COVID-19 pandemic, many wineries no longer offer food other than packaged snacks. All the wineries on this trail invite you to bring your own food. 

The Montgomery Woods State Natural Preserve is located 13 miles west of Ukiah and has large groves of massive redwoods. At one point, the largest was located here before bigger ones were discovered on the coast. Well worth a detour.

Related Reading: 

• 6 Things I Learned Marrying Into A Wine-Making Family
• 8 Must-Visit Wineries In Paso Robles, California
• Why You Should Consider Livermore For Your Next California Wine Getaway
• 8 Reasons To Take A Wine River Cruise

It’s been a tumultuous 14 months…especially for anyone involved with hospitality and retail. As we prepare to launch the 2021 Suffolk Food & Drink Awards, we shine a light on our 2020 winners, who have been through so much in the past year, but still managed to reach customers, help communities, and put smiles on the faces of Suffolk people through a shared love of food and drink. 

Restaurant of the Year – The Leaping Hare, Wyken Vineyards

Re-opening from May 19 (while continuing to serve pizzas at lunchtimes from Wednesday to Saturday), The Leaping Hare at Stanton plans to take its ethos of wild, sustainable and local to the next level, with the restaurant now in the hands of Lord and Lady Carlisle’s son Sam. 

“Thankfully, having at one point been down to just two chefs, we are now back to a full strength team and we’re raring to get re-opened,” says Sam. “At the end of a brutal year, positivity, imagination and creativity are all flowing again at Wyken and while we’ve hosted customers throughout at our new outdoor pizza café, there is nothing quite like the symphony of clinking glasses and cutlery in a full restaurant.” 

Customers revisiting The Leaping Hare will find a concise new wine list curated by front of house manager Evelyn, including tipples from Wyken and other vineyards which share its values, and with a much longer ‘by the glass’ list. 

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Excitingly, during lockdown Sam reveals the ancient art of ‘pannage’ has been practised in the Wyken woodlands, with the first cuts of pork appearing on menus within a month of re-opening.  

“And we’re re-opening at the height of asparagus season which is always a big event here as we have a few acres growing at the bottom of the drive, just a few hundred yards from the restaurant. The opening menu will very much be a celebration of this short-lived speciality. Over the weeks we’ve been closed our chefs have also been busy preserving the wild garlic that grows in our woods, which will accompany meats such as the first batch of our own rare breed lamb.” 

Young Chef of the Year, sponsored by BIdfood – Harvey Thompson of Tuddenham Mill 

The outdoor tipi restaurant continues to operate at award-winning Tuddenham Mill, and chef patron Lee Bye is excited to re-open to customers inside, as is young chef winner Harvey, who was over-the-moon to win in our competition last autumn. 

“Winning felt great. It was nice to prove myself and get my name out there. I can’t wait to re-open the indoor restaurant now. With most of last year a write-off it’s good to have a level of certainty again. We’ve had some fantastic hand-dived scallops on in the tipi so I’m looking forward to putting them in the dining room and playing around with some different flavours. We’ve also hooked up with some fantastic local suppliers for re-opening, including Mike Malloy who supplies us with the most amazing ex-dairy cow steaks.” 

Best Newcomer and Chef of the Year – Sam Sturman at The Brewers, Rattlesden 

This smart country inn has fast become a destination pub, known for its consistently brilliant food and faultless service. In the past few weeks a new terrace has allowed diners to once again enjoy everything The Brewers has to offer, but award-winning head chef Sam can’t wait to get back inside. 

“There’s some very exciting times ahead for myself and the team at the Brewers which will all be out very soon – so keep an eye out! In regards to re-opening, I can’t wait to go back to our full menu and tasting menu, and being able to give the most professional, intimate service here, as that’s what it’s all about. The menu will be based around really fresh, light, refined summer dishes and will be perfect when the sunshine is out.” 

Re-opening dishes will include lamb tartare with peas, mint and nori, beef with barbecued tomato, asparagus, morels and wild garlic, and rhubarb and custard tart with fraise de bois and orange. 

Indoor dining resumes from Wednesday, May 19. 

Best Independent Food and Drink Retailer, sponsored by the East of England Co-op – Two Magpies Bakery 

Ambitious baker and foodie entrepreneur Rebecca Bishop started Two Magpies in 2012, with sourdough, and a whole lot of heart. By the end of 2021, the rapidly expanding business will include that original shop, the bakery school and café at Darsham, and café/shops in Aldeburgh, Norwich, Halesworth, Holt and Blakeney. The popularity of Two Magpies is unsurprising. A peek in the window of any of the stores reveals golden-crusted breads, billowing meringues, decadent slices of beautifully decorated cakes and fancies, flaky pastries and so much more. Customers are especially fond of the doughnuts. Breakfast and lunch (based around good bread of course) are available at most sites to take away (and eat-in when available), with proper pizza at Darsham, Southwold and Aldeburgh.  

Pub of the Year, The Greyhound & TwentyOne 

A truly friendly and welcoming pub that has always gone above and beyond for the local community. In prime walking country, The Greyhound at Wickhambrook is well worth seeking out for a spot of lunch before or after a ramble – and it’s dog-friendly too. Indoor dining will re-open once restrictions lift, but for now there is a simple garden menu produced with locally-sourced ingredients, offering handmade burgers, ham, egg and chips, classic steaks and more. All to be enjoyed in one of the two spacious beer gardens with countryside views. Sunday lunches (12.30 to 4pm) are especially popular and worth booking in advance. When they re-open look out for the pie nights! 

Pride of Suffolk, sponsored by Marketplace amp – Lane Farm Country Foods / Suffolk Salami  

A true family affair this. Ian and Sue Whitehead’s high welfare pork farm is the beating heart of everything they produce. You’ll find it transformed into fantastic dry-cured bacon, sausages and hams at farm and food shops across the county (as well as in East of England Co-op stores). The Suffolk Farmhouse sausages especially are not to be missed. Seasoned with cinnamon, nutmeg and herbs, they’re made to Sue’s grandmother’s recipe and lend themselves perfectly to toad in the hole. And the bacon (cured for two weeks and lightly smoked over oak and beech wood chips) crisps beautifully – perfect for those weekend bacon sarnies. 

Ian and Sue’s daughters Sarah and Rebecca, alongside cousin Harry, carry the torch for the next generation, producing full-flavoured salamis and chorizo. 

Field to Fork, sponsored by Ashtons Legal – Suffolk Sweet Tomatoes 

You cannot miss the monumental Suffolk Sweet Tomatoes greenhouses at Bramford – they’re enormous. And they house one of the county’s most ambitiously green food businesses. The sweet, juicy toms are grown in coconut fibre, nurtured with rain and condensation water in a closed-loop system, pollinated by British bees, and kept pest-free naturally. Even the packaging is recyclable. Look for the Suffolk Sweet Tomatoes sign in a shop near you. You’ll find them in East of England Co-op stores and at Hollow Trees Farm in Semer. 

Best Coffee/Tea Shop, sponsored by Castlemeadow – Cortado Espresso Bar  

The team is gearing up to re-open indoors, but continues to offer takeaways Monday to Saturday, 7.30am to 2.30pm. True coffee specialists, you’ll find an extensive range of expertly made drinks at the Newmarket café – from the eponymous cortado, to ristretto and even organic matcha lattes. The team say: “The win of Best Coffee Shop was important for us. It really gave us a boost of confidence and we feel it pushed us to try even harder to maintain our high standards.

“For this year we are hoping to extend our food offering to an even higher level and push the boundaries of what people expect from a coffee shop food menu. Our sushi poke bowls have started well and we are looking into adding more items like this as well as venturing into a more exciting vegan options. We are also looking forward to offering the shop to more local chefs as a pop up evening venue.”

Outstanding Front of House, sponsored by Prosper Hospitality –  Coach and Horses  

Judges were impressed by the level of service at this Melton pub. Nothing is too much trouble, and customers are made to feel very much at home. While staff wait to open indoors, the flower-filled garden space is open from 12noon to 9pm for food. It’s very dog-friendly, so a nice place to nip by on your way to Rendlesham Forest or Shingle Street nearby. Food is simple but well cooked, from fritto misto, to the Coach burger and hand cut chargrilled gammon steak with trimmings. 

Best Afternoon Tea, sponsored by The Suffolk Shutter Company – The Neathouse 

The village of Dennington is lucky to have this delightful tearoom on the doorstep. Not only do the small team sell lots of essentials (cheese, milk, bread) and some of the best sausage rolls around, but they make a really rather good afternoon tea – which has been available to takeaway in lockdown. It’s best enjoyed in the lovely garden and needs to be booked 48 hours in advance. For £16.95 you’ll get a feast (largely using suppliers from within 30 miles), including sandwiches, sausage rolls, quiche, Scotch egg, mixed fruit scones (made to an old family recipe), and usually a generous four pieces of cake – per person!  The cafe is open 10am to 3pm Monday to Friday and 9am to 3pm Saturday for takeaways and outdoor dining

Suffolk Food and Drink Hero, sponsored by Cory Brothers Shipping Agency – Bill Pinney 

Following on in the footsteps of founder Richard Pinney, Bill and his family harness the magic of the coast in every product they sell. Be it oysters cultivated in beds at Butley Creek, fresh landed fish caught off the Orford shoreline, or smoked fish and meat, prepared over whole oak logs. You’ll find Pinney’s goods on menus all over Suffolk, in farm shops and delis and East of England Co-op stores. A real highlight is the melting, rich, umami savoury smoked mackerel. All it needs is a twist of lemon and a hunk of bread. 

When it comes to wine from the Land Down Under, Western Australia often lives in the shadow of Victorian and South Australian based wine regions.

Understandably so, considering it is geographically challenged as one of the world’s most isolated wine regions. But the west coast is gradually making its way as a premium Aussie wine region.

WA may cover a third of Australia, with baffling rock formations, ancient Aboriginal sites and more than a hundred different species of snakes characterizing the landscape, but the winemaking industry is small – WA contributes just 2 percent of the country’s grapes. But that hasn’t prevented wine production and consumption from ingraining into the culture here; in 2014 a giant 15 meter-wide “goon bag” was floating off a Perth beach as a part of the Cottesloe Sculptures by the Sea exhibition, created by West Australian artist Norton Flavel. A container usually reserved for the bulk production of wine of mediocre quality, the piece of art was contrary to what the state producers in terms of wine quality. Nearly one quarter of Australia’s fine wine originates from WA, an impressive ratio to that original 2 percent.

Exploring a case of wine from WA’s finest will take you on a tour through regions of great environmental variety, all of which are concentrated to the southwest corner, where the climate and soil types are an ideal combination for viniculture.

Swan Valley

Contrary to tradition, we start with sweets in the Swan Valley, a 30-minute drive west of the state capital Perth – a tiny distance in Western Australian standards. Home to some of the oldest vineyards in the country, the viticultural and winemaking knowledge here is derived from multiple generations producing sticky wine of premium quality. Talijancich have been producing a range of fortified wines from their estate since 1932. The 1974 Solero Rare Pedro may be tricky to find, but worth the hunt for the dimension and complexity that reflects more than 30 years of blending through thesolera method.

Geographe Bay

From here we head south, into the Geographe Bay where things get distinctly crisper in terms of climate as well as the style of wines on offer. Geographe Bay itself is a long curve of white sandy beaches and turquoise ocean that rivals the best that the Amalfi Coast has on offer. A fitting landscape to introduce Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc, a staunch contender for the most famous style of white wine from Western Australia. Willow Bridge Estate Bookends Fumé Sauvignon Blanc Semillon with aromatics of passionfruit and ginger and a textual palate of kiwifruit and citrus, its the tangy finish on this wine that compliments the sea breeze off the bay.

Margaret River

The importance of Margaret River to the WA wine industry is hard to overstate. Two-thirds of the state’s wine is produced here, a majority of which is of premium quality with Chardonnay, Shiraz, Semillon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon faring particularly well.

The absence of phylloxera here has allowed the selection and propagation of high-quality heritage clones of grapevines. This has had an important role in creating the distinct styles of wine here, especially Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. This is perfectly illustrated with Voyager Estate’s Estate Chardonnay. The 2019 vintage has a complex blend of nine different clones of the variety, creating a layered texture to the finished wine, complemented with a flint-like, mineral character.

It is the soil that creates the terroir of Margaret River so suitable for viniculture: a complex network of granite, gneiss and schist-soil types that are amongst the oldest in the world. These soils are low in nutrients creating low yields and vigor in the vineyard – ideal for producing high-quality, premium wines.

Akin to Geographe Bay, the trademark blend here is Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon, which has been hugely successful and helped to put the wine region on the map.  Moss Wood produces an exceptional example with the Ribbon Vale Sauvignon Blanc Semillon that has notes of lemon zest, cut grass and subtle tropical fruit. One of the leading producers of the region in terms of quality and accolades, Moss Wood has created a reputation distinguished by their consistency over each vintage and their ability to produce wine well-suited to ageing. The Sauvignon Blanc Semillon is no exception, with each vintage suited to cellaring for up to five years.

© Wikimedia Commons | Huge karri forests, full of eucalyptus trees and snakes, surround the vineyards of WA.

Leeuwin Estate is one of the founding wineries of Margaret River as a region. Once a humble cattle farm, in 1972, it was Napa Valley winemaker Robert Mondavi who identified the Leeuwin Estate as a potential site for premium wine production. Forty years later, this is proving true with the Leeuwin Estate Art Series collection receiving multiple international accolades over the past decade. Wine Spectator has included the Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay among its Top 100 Wine of the Year on multiple occasions. The Leeuwin Art Series Riesling is a personal favourite, a bright and crunchy drop with a distinct note of lemon sherbet that always leaves me wanting more.

Natural, or minimal intervention wine with organic and biodynamic growing practices are gaining some strong momentum in this corner of the country. Plenty of producers are opting for natural fermentations and Si Vintners are leading the way with the Si White. A blend of Semillon and Chardonnay that is bottled unfiltered and unfined, the adventurous consumer will be rewarded with notes of apricots and tropical fruits. A very supple and easy-drinking wine.

Rounding out Margaret River is the Vasse Felix Cabernet Sauvignon, one of the most popular wines from the grape variety for the region on Wine-Searcher. Easily understood with a tangy and bright palate, cherry aromas and savory notes of mushroom and oregano, this Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard is just 2.5 miles (4km) from the coast, receiving sea breezes from both the Indian and the Southern Ocean. This creates a long growing season and ideal conditions for Cabernet Sauvignon.

Manjimup

Heading east, to a more continental climate, Manjimup is known for forestry as well as viticulture. Named after the Noongar word “Manji”, which is an edible reed grown amongst the huge karri forests that fringe vineyards here. Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz do exceptionally well here, with the two varieties produced with elegance and finesse. Peos Estate Four Aces Cabernet Sauvignon is an ideal example. After spending 14 months in new French oak, it has aromas of forest floor and sandalwood, it perfectly exemplifies the terroir of Manjimup. 

Denmark

Heading down to the Southern Ocean coastline, Denmark is home to a high caliber of cool-climate wineries. As a wine region, Denmark is still relatively young and small. But pockets of granite-based soils planted to Chardonnay and Shiraz are producing some exceptional varietal wines. 

The Singlefile Estate Family Reserve Chardonnay is fermented in French oak barriques at the perfect proportion to be an exemplar of modern Australian Chardonnay. Not over-ripe or over-oaked, it will pair well with almost whatever you serve at your dinner party.

Cool-climate Shiraz is often herbaceous and spicy, a stark contrast to the bold and rich style of the variety that put the Barossa Valley on the world-wine map. The Ironrock Shiraz from Willoughby Park is no exception with soft tannins and a hint of dark chocolate. After its establishment in 2000, Willoughby Park have gone on to be a pivotal producer for putting the Denmark wine region on the map.

Albany

Finally, to tick one of those snake species off your to-do list, the Great Southern Distillery in Albany offers the Tiger Snake Sour Mash Whisky, named after one of the most venomous snakes in the world. Using a classic grain bill of corn, rye and malted barley, and occasionally including the hybrid grain triticale, all of which are sourced entirely from Western Australia. Expect a full-flavoured drop with notes of vanilla and caramel and some elegant spices to add a bite to this whiskey – a perfect nip to finish a case from Western Australia.

We would like to acknowledge the traditional custodians of the land throughout the South West and Peel regions of Western Australia/Noongar Boodjar. We pay our respects to the multiple Aboriginal communities and their culture; and to Elders past, present, and emerging.

Food donation

TRAVERSE CITY — The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints recently donated 40,000 pounds of food to the Father Fred Foundation. The aim is to help fulfill food needs within the five-county area in northern Michigan.

Asparagus event is off

EMPIRE — Empire Chamber of Commerce scrapped the Empire Asparagus Festival, originally set May 15-16. The chamber aims to host a small celebration later in the summer and resume the festival in 2022.

Blessing of Blossoms

TRAVERSE CITY — The annual Blessing of the Blossoms begins at 1 p.m. May 16 at St. Joseph Catholic Church. Mike Norton sings the “Impossible Dream.” After that, attendees can visit Chateau Chantal for Sara Lee cherry pie and a glass of wine.

Dinner to go

TRAVERSE CITY — Pick up a Sunday meal starting at 3 p.m. May 16 at the VFW off Veterans Drive. Menu includes half rack of barbecue ribs, potato salad, baked beans, butter biscuits and dessert. Cost is $10. Only 200 meals are prepared. This is the last takeout event ahead of summer.

Eat by Bike Week

TRAVERSE CITY — Norte presents Eat by Bike Week from May 17-21. Ride a bicycle to northern Michigan restaurants, place an order and share photos with Norte. Visit elgruponorte.org to download a bingo card.

Dinner fundraiser

FRANKFORT — Dinghy’s Restaurant and Bar donates 20 percent of sales from May 19-22 to Traverse City-based nonprofit Michael’s Place. The eatery is open from 4-8 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday and noon to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Spring wine meal

PETOSKEY — The Oregon Spring Wine Dinner is available at 5 or 7:30 p.m. May 20 at Palette Bistro. The five-course menu features asparagus avocado soup, a spring salad, black cod, smoked lamb ribs and a strawberry rhubarb skillet dessert. Cost is $81.90 per person including tax and gratuity. Reservations: 231-348-3321.

Market registration

ELK RAPIDS — The Elk Rapids Farmers Market accepts registration for this summer’s events, set Fridays from June 11 through Oct. 8. Vendors may sell farm grown or locally grown food items; crafts are not allowed. Cost is $20 per space. Reservations and payment are due by May 21.

Virtual hunger summit

COMSTOCK PARK — Feeding America West Michigan offers the next virtual hunger summit from 1-2:30 p.m. May 21 via Zoom. Food bank staff present new research highlighting local experiences with food insecurity. Other sessions:

• June 11 — “Food Insecurity in Michigan Before, During and After COVID-19: What Can Be Done?”
• July 9 — “The Importance of Nutrition Assistance and Fighting Hunger”

All events are free and start at 1 p.m. Register at feedwm.org/40-years.

Winery plans sanctuary

TRAVERSE CITY — Mari Vineyards Viticulturist Anna Atanassova works with Bee and Butterfly Habitat Fund to set up a sanctuary at the winery. The lawns will be replaced with sustainable cover crops for pollinators. Clovers will be planted in May. This fall they plan to plant wildflowers at Bella Vista, the vineyard visible from the tasting room.

Private winery events

KEWADIN — WaterFire Vineyards offers private events. The Wine and Cheese Party includes guided tastings and charcuterie for $35 per person. Perfect Pairings features guided tasting and appetizers for $60 per guest. A Night to Remember provides guided tastings and a multi-course meal for $100 each. Contact: 231-498-2753.

news, local-news, future city, mcnamara street, Yanni Pounartzis, Tully Moore, Sandon Gibbs-O’Neill, WBYK

The man behind Orange’s latest piece of street art has opened up on what inspired him and what else he has planned for the city. Canberra artist Yanni Pounartzis was commissioned by Orange City Council to design the piece currently being painted in McNamara Street as part of the Future City plan. “My style is always hard edge and abstract, so I didn’t want to do a literal interpretation of the vineyards, just trying to paint vineyards. So it’s an abstract interpretation of the region.” So far the design is 50 per cent complete, with the artwork set to stretch over the footpath and onto the road be completed around late June. One completed, Mr Pounartzis will set his sites on one more piece for the Future City plan which will focus on shadows of random objects. “As an artist I honestly feel honoured,” he said. “I’ve been invited in from Canberra and to do something that is designed to last for decades is a big deal.” The list of artists involved in the first instalment of the art project across the city include Julia Davis and Lisa Jones (Sydney), Sandon Gibbs-O’Neill (Orange), Tully Moore (Orange), Kellie O’Dempsey (Brisbane), Catherine O’Donnell (Blue Mountains), Yanni Pounartzis (Canberra), Liz Shreeve (Sydney), Floria Tosca (Sydney) and WBYK (Orange). Our journalists work hard to provide local, up-to-date news to the community. This is how you can continue to access our trusted content:

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The man behind Orange’s latest piece of street art has opened up on what inspired him and what else he has planned for the city.

Canberra artist Yanni Pounartzis was commissioned by Orange City Council to design the piece currently being painted in McNamara Street as part of the Future City plan.

“My style is always hard edge and abstract, so I didn’t want to do a literal interpretation of the vineyards, just trying to paint vineyards. So it’s an abstract interpretation of the region.”

So far the design is 50 per cent complete, with the artwork set to stretch over the footpath and onto the road be completed around late June.

WORKING HARD: Gallery staff member Isabelle Mathieu, building owner Derek Pigot, Mayor Reg Kidd, Gallery director Brad Hammond, Cr Tony Mileto, artist Yanni Pounartzis and painter Jacob Bing. Photo: RILEY KRAUSE.

One completed, Mr Pounartzis will set his sites on one more piece for the Future City plan which will focus on shadows of random objects.

“As an artist I honestly feel honoured,” he said.

“I’ve been invited in from Canberra and to do something that is designed to last for decades is a big deal.”

The list of artists involved in the first instalment of the art project across the city include Julia Davis and Lisa Jones (Sydney), Sandon Gibbs-O’Neill (Orange), Tully Moore (Orange), Kellie O’Dempsey (Brisbane), Catherine O’Donnell (Blue Mountains), Yanni Pounartzis (Canberra), Liz Shreeve (Sydney), Floria Tosca (Sydney) and WBYK (Orange).

Our journalists work hard to provide local, up-to-date news to the community. This is how you can continue to access our trusted content:

• Send us a letter to the editor using the form below