As “clean wine” continues its upward trajectory, natural winemakers say they’re being pushed out of a movement that they started. The Goop-esque term, which describes a minimally processed vino, usually hawked by “people in dresses standing in a field,” and, um, Cameron Diaz, isn’t regulated (also see: food). And that’s doing damage to the people who’ve made it their life’s work to sell wine with fewer preservatives and additives. “Making wine is really dirty and mechanical,” winemaker Megan Bell tells Food & Wine. In other words? There’s nothing natural about being clean.

Get a weekly dish of features, commentary and insight from the food movement’s front lines.