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ADSWineReporter

A Buyer’s Guide to Environmentally-Conscious Wine

November 7, 2021 by ADSWineReporter

In recent decades, consumers have become increasingly conscious of how our food is produced, and the local, sustainable food movement has moved into the mainstream. Many Americans have transitioned to plant-based diets as awareness mounts about factory farming and harmful large-scale agricultural practices like synthetic pesticide use, soil depletion, and harmful runoff from fertilizer-laden fields.

Yet, wine – a product of major importance in culture and cuisine – is largely left out of this conversation, although its environmental impact is significant. In France, where wine production accounts for only 3% of agricultural land, 20% of the country’s pesticide use occurs on vineyards, according to Decanter. Conventional vineyards are mostly monocultures that depend on intensive pesticide and fungicide use, thousands of pounds of which are used on California vineyards each year. Greenhouse gases are emitted from harvesting machinery, and CO2 as a byproduct from the alcoholic fermentation process employed by many winemakers.

Finding sustainable, environmentally-conscious wines takes some know-how, including some skepticism and caution about greenwashing. The FDA doesn’t regulate certifications or terminology on wine labels, unlike many other foods, and there’s no ingredients label on a bottle of wine.

The four main, recognized wine labels to look for are organic, biodynamic, natural, and sustainable. In general, organic wines avoid synthetic ingredients, biodynamic wines are created with a more holistic approach, natural wines use minimal processes and additives, and sustainable wines reduce waste and emissions. However, each of these terms is much more nuanced.

Organic

Like other food products with the USDA Organic label, organic wineries use no synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, or insecticides in their fields. This official label indicates that the vinification processes (AKA winemaking) was organic, employing no sulfites – which help preserve the wine and kill bacteria – that aren’t naturally occurring, and fermenting with only certified organic yeast.

The USDA also has a “made with organic grapes” label, which means the grapes themselves were grown organically, but the winemaking process itself wasn’t organic, and small amounts of sulfites and non-organic yeast might have been added.

This official government label is widely recognized for its rigorous certification process for farms, and is a trusted indicator of the practices used on wineries.

Biodynamic

Founded by Rudolf Steiner, biodynamic agriculture is a holistic approach to farming, taking into account the entire ecosystem and mixing the spiritual with the scientific. This kind of regenerative farming focuses on revitalizing degraded soil, increasing biodiversity, and sequestering carbon to reverse climate change. For example, a biodynamic farm might raise honeybees, maintain vegetable gardens, compost, and engage in other practices that benefit the whole farm ecosystem. Biodynamic farming is somewhat spiritual as well, and base planting/harvesting schedules on the lunar phases of the moon.

Like its organic counterparts, biodynamic winemaking doesn’t utilize synthetic chemicals, and there is a similar difference between biodynamic wine and grapes grown biodynamically: the former means that the winemaker used biodynamically-grown grapes and didn’t add yeast or make other adjustments to the product, while the latter means that the grapes themselves were grown biodynamically, but the process itself wasn’t necessary biodynamic (AKA the fermenting process might have utilized yeast additives, etc.).

The nonprofit organization Demeter certifies biodynamic wines and vineyards, and unlike most other wine certifications, the biodynamic label is recognized globally.

Natural

By its most basic definition, natural wines use the least possible amount of additives, chemicals, and technological processes; a natural wine in its purest form would be made from solely fermented grape juice, unlike conventional wines that often have added sugars, colors, stabilizers, and even animal additives like fish bladder and egg whites. While not necessarily made with organic or biodynamic grapes, many natural winemakers follow similar standards and use no chemical inputs.

The natural wine-production process harkens back to a more traditional way of making wine, employing no artificial practices like filtration, mechanical separation, etc. The absence of sulfites is a common attribute of natural wine, although small amounts (10-25 parts per million, as opposed to the 350 allowed in conventional wines) are usually considered acceptable in vintner circles. Given the lack of sulfites and filtration processes, the stability of the wine is often different; it might look cloudier as well, but many wine-lovers claim the taste is superior to conventional wine. Unlike the U.S., Europe has its own official natural wine label.

Sustainable

“Sustainable” wine is somewhat of an umbrella term with multiple certifications underneath it. Sustainable wineries tend to reduce waste and greenhouse gas emissions while conserving water, but the chosen practices are left up to the farmer.

The Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing (CCSW) label is one of the most widely recognized, issued by the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance for California wines, which account for 81% of all wine produced in the U.S. The vineyard, winery, or both can be certified, all of which are delineated with different labels. Considerations include pest, waste, and water management, as well as employee rights.

LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology) Certified is another recognized label for wineries in the Pacific Northwest, which looks at the attributes of a region and make rules based on the unique conditions of that area; for example, some land-use practices might be permitted in an arid region but not in a wetter one. Headquartered in Lodi, California, where 1/5 of California grapes are grown, the Lodi Roles certification has many standards for its wines and wineries, including the Pesticide Environmental Assessment System (PEAS), which considers the impact of pesticides on the ecosystem and vineyard workers. Labor is a main consideration of the SIP (Sustainability in Practice) certification as well.

So, how do you identify truly environmentally-conscious wine?

Many wine stores have separate sections for environmentally-conscious wine, which is a good place to start. When perusing the aisles, look for the above certifications/labels; keep in mind that organic is an official, highly-regulated label in the U.S., unlike the other three, although they do tell consumers about the values and practices of a vineyard or winery.

Certification is often a lengthy, expensive, and complicated process; becoming a certified-organic farm takes three years and can cost upwards of $1,000. Some vineyards might not have the time or resources to become certified, but still follow the same standards as those that are. Do your own research about wineries to find out what their practices are; some that are uncertified might even go further than those that are when it comes to environmentally-friendly practices and ethical labor standards.

If possible, look for wines local to your region (that is, if you live in a wine-producing state). Like local food, wines produced nearby require much less transportation and your business contributes to the local economy.

Environmentally-conscious wines can be just as delicious as conventional wine, if not more so! Check out Food and Wine’s list of 10 Planet-Friendly Wines for recommendations to get started.

Linnea graduated from Skidmore College in 2019 with a Bachelor’s degree in English and Environmental Studies, and now lives in Brooklyn, New York. Along with her most recent position at Hunger Free America, she has interned with the Sierra Club in Washington, DC., Saratoga Living Magazine, and Philadelphia’s NPR Member Station, WHYY.

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Filed Under: Vineyards

B13: A new limited edition Champagne from Bollinger

November 7, 2021 by ADSWineReporter


Bollinger’s newly launched vintage Champagne from 2013 provides a striking interpretation of a quite challenging year; a year in which a number of houses chose not to produce vintage Champagnes.

A similar situation had arisen 10 years earlier. ‘From 2003, we released a cuvée named “2003 by Bollinger” – it was an atypical year, but Gérard Liot and Mathieu Kauffmann, the cellar masters at the time, wished to make a small amount of vintage Champagne. The pH of 3.25 was high compared to the usual 3 in the Champagne region,’ recalls Denis Bunner, deputy cellar master at Bollinger.

‘Ten years later, 2013 was totally the opposite. It was cold, especially during the wet, hesitant spring, which led to a very late flowering starting on 2 July, followed by a very hot summer with violent storms.’

Once the decision had been made to make a vintage Champagne, even from such a challenging year as 2013, the Bollinger team focused on late-ripening terroirs such as those in the northern part of the Montagne de Reims sector to give this cuvée a very strong identity that would be representative of the vintage at its best.

‘The pH is 2.91, so very low,’ Denis Bunner points out. The wine is a blanc de noirs – 100% Pinot Noir – with 51% of the grapes coming from Verzenay, 25% from Aÿ and the rest from the first growth villages of Louvois, Mareuil and Avenay. The final blend of wines is 92% grand cru and 18% premier cru.

The decision to use only Pinot Noir grapes in Bollinger’s B13 was made by Gilles Descôtes in his inaugural debut as cellar master, thus creating the first new blanc de noirs Champagne from Bollinger since the launch of its 1969 vintage of the 100% Pinot Noir cult bottling, Vieilles Vignes Françaises.

As a vintage blanc de noirs that incarnates the cellar master’s interpretation of a specific year, B13 will not belong to the category of recurrent cuvées, which is the case with the recent releases of PN VZ 15 and PN VZ 16.

The dosage is 6g/L and, according to Denis Bunner, ‘90% of the grapes used were our own, because we wish to feature our own vineyards in our limited editions.’

The Bollinger vineyards benefit from meticulous care. In 2012, Bollinger became the first Champagne house to earn the coveted label of ‘High Environmental Value’ for its vineyards, a feat repeated in 2014 when it obtained another certificate for sustainable development called Viticulture Durable en Champagne.

Tasting Bollinger B13:

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Wine & Dine Road Trip: Houston

November 7, 2021 by ADSWineReporter

 

An evening out in Houston at Bar No. 3 at La Colombe d’Or

Tarick Foteh / T FOTEH PHOTOGRAPHY

When most people think of Houston, Texas, the first thoughts that come to mind are heat, humidity, and concrete; bright city lights, a maze of traffic-bearing highways, and industries led by energy and aerospace. If you’re a sports fan, the Texans, the Rockets, and the recent World Series contenders, the Astros may also come up. As the fourth largest city in the country, Houston is home to diverse ethnicities and interests. Key elements that have influenced a vibrant cultural fabric accented by Texas heritage and youthful innovation.

A view of downtown Houston from Buffalo Bayou

Visit Houston

Houston has earned several nicknames since its inception in the 1830s. From the “Magnolia City” for an old magnolia grove that was ripped out in the 1930s, to the “Bayou City” for the steam ferry named “Bayou City,” that worked the routes between Houston and Galveston before the Civil War, the Space City for playing a prominent role as the center of activity for the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA), the Energy Capital of the World for the proliferation of energy firms headquartered in town, and H-town, which is apparently popular because it takes one less keystroke to type. But when you sample from its wide selection of culinary offerings, from glitzy steak restaurants to hole-in-the-wall barbecue joints and every ethnic dish you can imagine, it’s perhaps time that Houston earns the moniker “Flavor City.”

And while places like Austin, San Antonio, the Hill Country, Marfa, or Big Bend may draw much of the travel appeal in Texas, in truth, there’s something magnetic about Houston if you choose to dig in a little bit. Let’s be clear – a weekend in the Bayou City isn’t nearly enough to get an authentic taste for all it has to offer. (The range of genuine and well-executed cuisine on every level would take a year to savor alone,) But if you’re looking to skim the surface for a short romantic getaway or with the family in tow, here are a few—relatively new—worthwhile places to stay, eat, and enjoy to get a true feel for the heart of Houston.

Stay:

C. Baldwin Hotel

Named for Charlotte Baldwin Allen, a matriarch of Houston who used her inheritance to finance the city’s founding in the early nineteenth century, this high-end and locally-focused independent hotel is a tribute to her legacy as a founding businesswoman, philanthropist, and visionary. While Texas historical figures such as Sam Houston, William B. Travis, Stephen F. Austin, and Mirabeau B. Lamar’s contributions continue to be celebrated, Charlotte Baldwin Allen’s story is largely unsung.

Though her friend Sam Houston suggested calling the newly formed town “Charlottesville,” she capitalized on his more famous surname. She also became the primary financial driver of Houston’s entire construction industry, bankrolling the navy and building the short-lived Capitol of the Republic of Texas.

Located at the center-point of Downtown, Midtown, and Buffalo Bayou Park, the hotel is situated at Allen Parkway and only a short walk from the Theater District and the Main Street METRORail line. (It’s also just a quick drive to Washington Avenue, the Arts District, The Heights, Montrose, Museum District, and River Oaks.)

This contemporary property offers visitors an opportunity to discover an authentically sophisticated and modern Houston experience featuring elegant yet cozy rooms, amenities such as a luxury nail salon, local retailer Sloan Hall, and activated green space. It’s also home to a signature restaurant, Rosalie Italian Soul, from Top Chef Master winner Chris Cosentino. Views from the higher floors afford a true glimpse of the city’s downtown appeal.

The newly renovated La Colombe d’Or in Houston

Tarick Foteh / T FOTEH PHOTOGRAPHY

La Colombe d’Or

Located in the heart of the Montrose neighborhood, commonly referred to as the birthplace of Texas counterculture, La Colombe D’Or is an intersection where history, art, and luxe comfort collide. Housed in a 1920s mansion, the hotel’s original structure is the former home of one of Houston’s most influential couples, Walter and Ella Fondren. Early benefactors of the Texas oil boom at the turn of the twentieth century, Walter transitioned from a laboring roughneck to become one of the founders of the Humble Oil Company, now Exxon Company. (In previous years, Ella would use a portion of their wedding dowry to invest in Texaco, a decision that would eventually be worth millions.) The Fondrens built the Jazz-era mansion in 1923, which later served as a school building and as a Red Cross facility.

In 1979, the Zimmerman family took ownership of the property. The Zimmerman’s, a well-traveled, art-loving family, opened the mansion as a small boutique hotel, inspired by an auberge in Southern France of the same name where young artists used to stay and commune. They took advantage of the space to display pieces from the family’s extensive art collection. But in the last couple of years, the family employed a grander vision for the area, restoring the original structure to its prime and expanding the property to include a modern residential tower with an additional 18 hotel rooms.

Spacious room in one of the bungalows at La Colombe d’Or

Tarick Foteh / T FOTEH PHOTOGRAPHY

The suites in the mansion marry an old-world vibe with artistic elegance and modern accents. In contrast, the new tower suites offer a fresh, contemporary feel with infinitely more space to display a wide range of art in various mediums, from paintings to sculptures. Beyond the main property, just across the street, lies a collection of garden bungalows. Once a 1940s two-story apartment complex, the Zimmerman’s reimagined the u-shaped layout into luxury hotel suites, each with its own eclectic feel and design. With an entryway through an ornate black iron gate, the bungalows surround a shady garden courtyard adorned with gas-lit gothic sconces, ivy-covered walls, and babbling water fountains, a scene evocative of New Orleans’ French Quarter.

Be sure to take advantage of the sophisticated European-inspired fare at Tonight & Tomorrow, where breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in an elegant dining room accented with rich green velvet seating and dark original wood framing. (Don’t miss the adjoining Bar No. 3 for a selection of creative cocktails and bar snacks.)

Dine:

The interior of Bludorn restaurant

Julie Soefer Photography

Bludorn

Located in the city’s Fourth Ward, Bludorn’s is the vision of Seattle native Aaron Bludorn. His extensive experience has seen him on both the East and West Coast, working with esteemed mentors such as Michelin-starred Daniel Boulud and Douglass Keane. His menu reflects his background applying fine dining techniques to French-inspired Gulf Coast fare in a refined yet relaxed neighborhood setting. The vibrant space serves as the perfect backdrop to indulge in a perfectly juicy burger, a dozen oysters on the half shell, or a soulful lobster pot pie for two. You’ll even find a few Greek-inspired splashes in deference to his co-owner and wife, Victoria Pappas Bludorn, of Houston’s celebrated Greek restaurant family, the Pappas. (Pappas Bros Steakhouse, Pappadeux, Pappasito’s, Pappas Bar-B-Q) Drawing on her previous experiences at Bar Boulud and The French Laundry, the dessert from pastry chef Alejandra Salas is not to be missed. S’mores ice cream cones flambéed table-side are a visual (and tasty) treat, but the crispy, doughy cinnamon-sugar-dusted churros are absolute heaven. (Salas has worked the recipe to perfection over the years.)

The expansive dining room is glitzy and bright, where magnetic energy emanates from the gregarious banter from each table. Friendly, attentive hospitality makes every occasion feel special, whether in for a wedding anniversary or simply just a Tuesday night with friends, not surprising considering the pedigree of its owners.

The bar at Georgia James Tavern in downtown Houston

Claudia Casbarian

Georgia James Tavern 

This downtown locale tucked into the first floor of the Market Square Tower opened last summer as the slightly more casual kid sister of the feelin’-fancy Georgia James steakhouse. It’s part of the family of restaurants from Underbelly Hospitality from James Beard Award-winning chef Chris Shepherd. Committed to authenticity and heritage, Shepherd has shared a commitment to spotlighting the “underbelly” of Houston’s flavorful side. The Tavern is dark and cozy with gilded accents‚—a nod to the Art Deco decor of the existing building—and every bit as elegant in design as the original. Here, chef Matt Coburn sources seasonal, local ingredients from a fleet of area farmers and purveyors. The menu, though abbreviated, offers a wide range of flavorful appetizers, salads, and wood-fired entrées. There’s a $25 burger that’s thick and juicy, topped with smoked onion “fancy sauce,” creamy American cheese, onions, and pickles. And it’s worth every penny. The crispy karaage chicken nuggets with fermented chili-soy glaze are a sweet-and-spicy starter, but the decadent chocolate-pecan pie cake steals the show with silken pecan-praline buttercream and crunchy fried pie-crust sprinkles. It’s the perfect spot for those glammed up to catch a night at the symphony or ballet who want to grab a proper meal before the show.

Chef/Owner Travis McShane of Ostia in Houston

Lauren DeFrehn Photography

Ostia

Stop in for brunch and bubbles on the garden patio at Ostia, an Italian and New American-inspired trattoria in Montrose. Here, chef-owner Travis McShane features an inviting menu of pasta, seasonal salads, wood-fired pizzas, and composed entrées. A former protégé of Barbuto chef Jonathan Waxman, McShane returned to his native Houston to share his approach to seasonal flavor with his hometown. The wine menu offers a range of Italian selections with an added emphasis on classic Champagne. Though salads and small plates vary with the season, the roasted check with lemon and salsa verde is a menu mainstay and one of the juiciest and most tender executions in recent memory. Of course, you can’t go wrong with a light and classic Margherita pizza with a fruity glass of Lambrusco to wash it all down.

The menu at March, inspired by Andalucía and Murcia

Julie Soefer

March

There are some who make a veritable pilgrimage to a particular town simply to dine at one heralded spot. In Napa, it’s The French Laundry. In New York, it’s 11 Madison Park. In Chicago, it’s Alinea. For Houston, that culinary experience is March. Located above sister restaurant Rosie Cannonball in Montrose, this elegant fine dining restaurant is led by Goodnight Hospitality business partners Chef Felipe Riccio and Master Sommelier June Rodil. Here, Riccio and his team of chefs—Ian Payne, Christian Hernandez, Matt Hamilton, Shawn Gawle—examine the various regions in the Mediterranean where boundaries meet and intersect, creating tension, conflict, and diversity through food. In short, you’re going to get a true taste of place with a reverence to tradition balanced with innovative flare. But you won’t get every corner of the Mediterranean in one sitting. Instead, Riccio and his team dive deep into one specific area, introducing guests to one region’s unique flavors and preparations through spices, meats, and local vegetables. Last spring, it was the Maghreb region of northern Africa. This fall, the menu focuses on the Southern Spanish areas of Andalucía and Murcia with modern interpretations of classic salmorejo tomato and bread soup, escabeche de mariscos with Iberico ham, harissa sofrito, and clam broth, and rich and tender Rabo de Toro (oxtail stew) with a braised greens in Calasparra rice.

Vermouth service at March

Julie Soefer

Before you even see the dining room, an evening at March begins in the bar, tucked away in its own mezzanine room where cozy lounging vignettes await. It starts with house-made vermouth. A fashionably-uniformed server brings an elegant vintage glass alongside a glass-walled canteen filled with white vermouth steeping in a colorful array of flowers, herbs, and spices of the season. The pour is just an aperitif but also an enticing glimpse at what lies ahead. Stick with the vermouth, or select a cocktail from the curated menu of culinary-driven creations from the bar team led by Alex Negranza. The first course of the set menu is served here, typically in the form of four composed bites to introduce guests to the region of the season. Once finished, guests are led into the formal dining room

The wine list is extensive, with more than 11,000 bottles in the cellar. But if you’re putting your dining experience in the capable hands of Chef Riccio’s team for a six- or nine-course meal, you may as well relinquish vinous control to the expertise of Rodil and beverage director Mark Sayre for either the “Classic” or “Premium” wine pairing. To be clear, March isn’t the only game in town. There are a lot of fine dining experiences here that make a memorable experience. But if there’s any pinnacle hospitality experience that helps bring recognition to Houston as a dining destination, March is that place.

Musaafer

For a flavorful journey to India, stop in for an evening at Musaafer. One of the first new restaurants to open during the pandemic, the project was a labor of love for chef Mayank Istwal, who hired most of his staff directly from India to pursue their dream of modernizing neoteric Indian cuisine and telling the story of their native country’s heritage and culture. Istwal has traveled extensively across India, gathering recipes and inspiration to cultivate a menu inspired by the 29 states of India, which is perhaps how the restaurant landed its name, which means “traveler” in Hindi and Urdu. Try the tender texture of mushroom ceviche with coconut, curry leaf, and crunchy boondi, or Nalli Nihari lamb shank, slowly braised and served with saffron-cauliflower risotto. Pastry Chef Ruschit Harneja dazzles with sweet treats such as Rajasthani Ghevar, a traditional disc-shaped syrup cake given a modern, artful presentation.

Nancy’s Hustle

For dinner, or late-night drinks and snacks, Nancy’s Hustle is the place. Located in the gentrified quadrant of east downtown, or “EaDo,” this bustling hotspot isn’t really new (it opened in late 2017), but it has an eclectic appeal that has made it a classic “must” when visiting Houston’s dining scene. Here co-owner and celebrated Houston cocktail specialist Sean Jensen and co-owner and chef Jason Vaughan keep a fresh and lively menu with the crowd favorite “Nancy Cakes” taking top honors as the most requested dish, and with good reason. Fluffy, buttery cornmeal cakes, airy, whipped cultured butter, and delectably salty smoked trout roe, they’ve become a local icon. Most of the menu changes with the season, but another standard is the juicy burger with melted American cheese, pickles, and tomato on a toasted brioche English muffin. Flashy—primarily with their flavorful food—yet neighborhood casual, Nancy’s is where you want to end a long day with great food and a good glass of wine or a boozy cocktail. Though there may be a bit of a wait, it’s well worth it.

A full barbecue spread at Feges in Houston

Julie Soefer Photography

Feges BBQ

Husband and wife team Patrick Feges and Erin Smith have made their mark on Texas barbecue with their two locations of Feges BBQ. (The first is a food-court version in Greenway Plaza downtown, and the second is a new stand-alone lunch and dinner restaurant in the Spring Branch neighborhood.) Self-taught pit master Feges first served in Iraq, earning a Purple Heart for injuries sustained during combat before finding his passion for cooking during recovery. He worked in Houston’s fine-dining restaurants, Brennan’s and Underbelly, before focusing on barbecue full-time. Smith started her career in fine dining at New York’s Per Se and Babbo before moving home to Houston to run several kitchens and spend a year as a sommelier at the popular Houston wine bar, Camerata. Their unique strengths have helped to garner a loyal following for both locations, where marrying hospitality with Texas barbecue goes hand-in-hand. Don’t miss the small yet well-appointed wine selection, including some funky offerings that pair well with smoked meats like Cleto Chiarli Vecchia Modena Lambrusco, rosé from Austrian winemaker Heidi Schrock, and Chateau Combel La Serre, a robust Malbec that pairs perfectly with a Texas-sized barbecue platter.

Superica

For a taste of authentic Tex-Mex cuisine, head to the Heights neighborhood for lunch and order a combo plate at Superica. Here, classics like tacos, tamales, and enchiladas take center stage, along with grilled fajitas, ceviche, and beloved chip-dipping favorite, chile con queso—in Texas, more commonly referred to as queso. The kitchen is an homage to the favorite Texas spots of celebrated Atlanta-based chef Ford Fry, who grew up in Houston and brought his version of Tex-Mex to Georgia in 2015. Its success prompted him to open a sister location in his hometown with seasoned chef Kevin Maxey, a Texas native and Gramercy Tavern alum, at the helm. Thematic cocktails include classics such as frozen margaritas and Palomas as well as favorites such as the “Matador” with pineapple and cilantro and non-alcoholic refreshers such as “Jamaica Tea” and daily agua frescas.

Tiny Champions

For something with a bit of Italian flare, check out Tiny Champions. A sibling to Nancy’s Hustle, this low-key EaDo spot serves up tasty small plates, house-made pasta, and wood-fired pizzas made with artisan sourdough crust that’s so crisp and delicious, you won’t leave a crumb behind. The menu changes seasonally, but the soul of flavor behind each dish remains a hallmark of co-owner and executive chef Jason Vaughan and his team. Shaved mushroom salad dusted with freshly grated parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil is a simple yet pleasurable revelation. A pizza with a snappy chili-ricotta base, crispy salami finocchiona, fennel, and fresh mozzarella is heaven. Wash it all down with a selection from the funky-fresh wine menu and finish it off with a scoop of mint stracciatella ice cream, and you’ll leave feeling like you’ve reached actual tiny champion status.

What to do:

The Houston Zoo, Hermann Park

My family is originally from Houston. Growing up, I have happy memories of my grandmother taking me to the zoo when I’d come for a visit. Now that I have a family of my own, I’m amazed at how well the Houston Zoo has evolved over the years. The 55-acre park is home to more than 6,000 animals from 900 species, and with more than 2.1 million visitors a year, it is the second most visited zoo in the country. The open landscape offers beautiful, spacious domains for animals, ample educational and interactive displays and activities, shady walkways, and plenty of fun for kids to enjoy. Its location within the expansive 445-acre Hermann Park makes it a perfect building block for a day outdoors. From the zoo, stroll the many trails and gardens throughout the park. You could hop aboard the 50-year-old mini train that winds its way around the park for a scenic tour or catch an evening show at the Miller Outdoor Theatre, offering one of the most diverse seasons of outdoor entertainment from music to theater. All performances at Miller Theatre are family-friendly and free of charge.

The life-size experience at the Immersive Van Gogh exhibit in Houston

MIchael Brosilow

Immersive Van Gogh Exhibit

Part of an international sensation, thanks to Netflix hit Emily in Paris, the Immersive Van Gogh Exhibit has now found a permanent home in Houston. Located in a 16,500-square-foot warehouse near downtown, the interactive experience offers a unique way to experience the work of celebrated impressionist artist Vincent Van Gogh with a digital exhibit that puts art lovers virtually in his most loved pieces. The Lighthouse Immersive and Impact exhibit employs 500,000 cubic feet of moving projections that bring the artist’s individual brushstrokes to life. The whole experience is set to an engaging original score for an added audio dimension.

Palace Social

If you’re looking for a fun way to blow off some steam with friends or family, Palace Social on Bellaire Boulevard offers an excellent escape for an afternoon (or evening) of fun. A modern space reimagined version of the original Palace Bowling Lanes, a former longtime neighborhood favorite, the new 27,000-square-foot venue offers eight bowling lanes along with much more, including a sprawling arcade, virtual reality games, two multi-sport simulators, a sports lounge outfitted with big-screen TVs, and special event rooms for karaoke and private parties. The dining menu offers an array of dishes from queso and chips to pizzas, salads, sandwiches, and burgers. Unlike many warehouse gaming spots, Palace Social provides a bright and airy contemporary design with retro, mid-century accents and plenty of natural light.

The Alien Grass exhibit at Seismique

ROGUES HOLLOW PROD.

Seismique 

This unique art experience offers guests 40-plus unique exhibits overflowing with dazzling displays of light generated by 9 million LEDs, color, sound, and natural elements. If you’ve ever been to the Meow Wolf exhibits in Santa Fe, Denver, or Las Vegas, it’s a little bit like that, but with more of an outer space feel. Designed for all ages, the 40,000-square-foot arts and entertainment concept features works by over two dozen artists along with advanced technological elements like projection mapping from 111 projectors, holograms, augmented reality, light-mapping, motion tracking, gamification, and more. While opening during the pandemic, Seismique created a completely touchless experience where guests can utilize an integrated mobile app for the space to avoid touching dials and knobs. Though it’s a bit of a drive from the central part of town, the experience is well worth the effort, especially for ages six and up.

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Epic entertainer | The West Australian

November 7, 2021 by ADSWineReporter

Sitting pretty in a desirable pocket of Trigg, 9 Elliott Road is a stunning modern home on an expansive 728sqm block.

Spanning two levels with four bedrooms and three bathrooms, this massive property is ready for the whole family to move in, including the fur babies.

Camera IconOne of the bathrooms. Credit: Supplied.

Realmark Coastal Director and Sales Associate Sean Hughes said the sheer size of the property was a standout aspect.

“When you start to get to the towel and thong zone in Trigg, the blocks generally seem to be about 500sqm, so the fact this one is over 700sqm gives the capacity in the family home to have a pool and alfresco while still having really good lawn space,” he said.

“The beautiful thing about this home is it is only a couple of years old and it is very hard to get your hands on a new product in Trigg – they don’t come up too often.”

The ground level of the home consists of a grand entry foyer, stylish powder room, well-appointed laundry, fourth or guest bedroom suite with a walk-in wardrobe, its own front access and a sumptuous ensuite, a versatile lounge or activity room with poolside access and a wine tasting room that gives Crown Perth a run for its money.

The alfresco area combined with the below-ground swimming pool and neighbouring spa is an area to die for.

Complete with a built-in BeefEater barbecue, a new outdoor dishwasher and stone kitchen, you will be the envy of the street with such epic entertaining options.

The expansive main kitchen. Camera IconThe expansive main kitchen. Credit: Supplied.

The top floor houses the remaining two minor bedrooms and the exquisite master suite with a luxurious ensuite and access to the front balcony.

The expansive open-plan living, dining and kitchen area is situated on the top floor, allowing full living capacity on the second level.

The living area. Camera IconThe living area. Credit: Supplied.

Exit out the sliding stacker doors to a terrific entertaining balcony where protection from the coastal winds meets magical evening sunsets almost every day of the year.

If the home itself wasn’t enough, its location will seal the deal.

“The property is on a cul-de-sac, so it’s nice and quiet,” Mr Hughes said. “It is located in a highly sought-after enclave of Trigg.”

Close enough to the beach to have one foot in the ocean and one in your living room, this property offers an enviable coastal lifestyle.

The home is in walking distance to the beach. Camera IconThe home is in walking distance to the beach. Credit: Supplied.

“The home is so close to Clarko Reserve and Trigg Point for the surfers and those who enjoy the beach,” Mr Hughes said. “On the other hand, there are bushwalks close by for those who want to get lost in the other side of nature.”

A short drive down the road is the new billion-dollar Karrinyup shopping centre, while Karrinyup Road takes you to the freeway, allowing you to be in the city within 15 minutes.

According to Mr Hughes, this is an opportunity not to be missed.

9 Elliott Road, Trigg

Beds: 4

Baths: 3

Price: Set date sale on November 17

Agent: Realmark Coastal

Contact: Sean and Jenny Hughes, 0426 217 676, Oliver Hess, 0478 844 311

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Originally Appeared Here

Filed Under: Wine Tasting

The best pop for your pennies? Try grower Champagne

November 6, 2021 by ADSWineReporter

Champagne is a strange anomaly in the wine world. On one hand it’s thought of as a luxury product, something we’re willing to pay a little more for to punctuate a special moment. On the other hand, we very rarely put it under the scrutiny we would another wine of half the price.

Most often it seems that we don’t really think of Champagne as wine, but as a celebratory beverage valued for its association with prestige. With most of the well known “luxury brand” champers, we are actually paying boutique prices for a quasi-industrial product.

From a wine lover’s perspective, Champagne has for a long time been poor value for money. The growth in popularity of what is called “grower Champagne” in the past couple of decades, mind the pun, has flipped the script on that. If you know where to look, there are some exceptionally good bottles to be had at relatively affordable prices.

Champagne will never be cheap, but if you’re keen on really good wine, in terms of bang for your buck, or pop for your pennies, grower Champagne makes this region worth another look.

READ MORE:
* Christmas taste test: Top 10 Champagnes
* The best Champagnes for under $100
* International Champagne judge Dr Tony Jordan says even good sparkling doesn’t compete

As a region, Champagne is dominated by what is called négociant wine production, in which the people who make the wine do not grow the grapes. Instead, one party owns the land and grows the grapes, and another, the winery or Champagne “house” buys those grapes from them, and does the job of making the wine. Grower Champagne, or as it is called in French law Récoltant-Manipulant (R-M) Champagne, designates that the people making the wine also grow the grapes.

Champagne as a beverage is a triumph of ingenuity against adverse conditions. Take a look at a map of grape growing regions and the thing that will strike you about Champagne is how far north it is relative to most places where wine is made. It’s cold. For a region where it’s pretty difficult to grow and ripen grapes, Champagne is able to produce fairly big volumes of highly marketable wine, year upon year.

The Champanois achieved this feat by developing a method of making wine that allows for the blending of wines from different vineyards and different years to balance the nearly impossible growing seasons with the manageable and great growing years. The addition of sugar to the finished product (the amount of which determines if your Champagne is designated extra-brut, brut, extra-sec, sec, or demi-sec, in order from least sugar added to most), and of course a remarkably reliable technique of making a stable highly carbonated drink, are all careful manipulations which offset the complications that arise from making wine in a place where ripening grapes can prove difficult.

The bubbly wine we know and love is an ingenious response to the region’s climate and geography.

Great innovations are of course not always used for good, and as the method of Champagne production became more advanced, the less the base product – the grapes and the still wine made from it – seemed to matter. For growers, high yields mean more income, and, especially for big houses, the quality of that fruit isn’t drastically important, as they have a recipe for a reliably pleasant product and increasingly large marketing budgets to make it appealing to consumers. Acidity, sugar, and bubbles of course make for a delicious drink, it’s why Coke is so appealing. But at Champagne prices, we should expect a lot more from our wine.

Fortunately, that’s what grower Champagne offers. These maverick Champagne producers value high-quality, carefully farmed fruit over volume. They have a common desire to make the best possible wine, usually at considerable economic cost to them in terms of labour-intensive farming and yield, while operating in the most marginal of climates. These wines are not only great to celebrate with, they’re world class. And the good news is that the prices are little, if any, more than the famous labels, which in terms of quality are fizzers by comparison.

Forget the big labels and put luxury where it matters, in your glass.

Here are eight greats to try…

Roses de Jeanne, Vincent Couche, Lamandier-Bernier and Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru bottles.

supplied/Stuff

Roses de Jeanne, Vincent Couche, Lamandier-Bernier and Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru bottles.

Roses de Jeanne, ranges from $100 to $200 (from Truffle Food & Wine)

Cedric Bouchard, also based in the Aube, makes champagnes that defy conventions. His wines each come from single sites, from a single varietal, a single vintage, without added sugar, and his yields are incredibly low, especially for champagne where legal yield maximums are criminally high. First fermentation and ageing takes place in stainless steel tanks rather than wood. The idea is that there is a direct line between the place and time the grapes were grown and what’s in your glass. I sometimes think of them as the anti-champagne champagne, but they’re not only novel or unique, they’re extraordinarily good wines. They’re not always available, but contact John at Truffle Imports to find out how to get your hands on any and all bottles you can.

Vincent Couche, Chardonnay de Montgueux, Brut NV, $97 (Truffle)

One impact of the wine world falling for grower champagne has been the emergence of great wines from previously disregarded parts of the region, such as this one from the southern Aube subregion. Geographically closer to Chablis in Burgundy than to the famous grand cru vineyards of the north of Champagne, this stunner drinks like it – precise, detailed and delicious.

Lamandier-Bernier, Latitude, NV $98 (Dhall and Nash)

From the prestigious premier and grand cru area of the Cote de Blanc, the recent history of the estate reads like that of the top flight producers everywhere. A conversion to biodynamic farming, more time spent in the vineyards, and natural fermentations. It’s a formula that lets the stellar terroir shine through in mineral, bright and uplifting wines. These guys have a reputation that just gets greater and greater.

Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru, Brut Tradition NV $150 (Dhall and Nash)

Great winemaking takes focus and determination. Great winemakers can sometimes be pretty particular people. Francis Egly gives the impression that he is convinced that he makes some of the best champagnes out there. That could be annoying if he wasn’t entirely correct. It doesn’t get much better.

The Vouette et Sorbée Chartogne-Taillet, J. Lassalle and Agrapart bottles.

supplied/Stuff

The Vouette et Sorbée Chartogne-Taillet, J. Lassalle and Agrapart bottles.

Vouette et Sorbée, Fidele, NV brut nature, $142 (Salinity)

It says NV or non-vintage on the label, which normally means that like most champagnes it’s made of a blend of multiple vintages. In reality this comes from a single vintage. The new breed of grower champagnes have done away with many of the practices of conventional champagne making, and it’s a brave move to reject conventions that might protect your family business from the risks of a bad, or non-existent growing season. When visiting Bertrand Gautherot he told me that losing a year’s harvest was a price you had to be willing to pay if you wanted to do things right. That dedication shows in these exceptional and unique wines from another superstar of the Aube subregion.

Chartogne-Taillet, Cuvee St Anne, Extra Brut NV, $86 (Village Winery)

The Cuvee St Anne is the ‘entry level’ wine of this estate, which meticulously farms by hand and horse-driven plough. Unbelievable purity from a famed historical terroir where grapes have been grown since the seventh century.

J. Lassalle, Preference 1er cru, Brut NV, $75 (Glengarry)

Three generations of women from the Lassalle family embrace traditional winemaking techniques, their wooden press is the same as when the family started making wine in 1942 in order to challenge convention and make bold, full styles of champagne which echo the great whites of Burgundy.

Agrapart, 7 crus, NV $98 (Truffle)

For more than a decade now I’ve been recommending this to drinkers who look for the yeasty, toasted brioche aromas they enjoy in big brand champagnes. This has all of that, plus rich flavours of white peach and a salinity that make you want to drink more.


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Originally Appeared Here

Filed Under: Making Wine

White vinegar cleaning tips: I bought 20 litres as a lockdown luxury | Bricks & Mortar

November 6, 2021 by ADSWineReporter

Some people spent lockdown panic-buying paint; others splurged on stand mixers to supplement their new-found baking addictions. While my friends treated themselves to fancy make-at-home restaurant boxes from Bocca Di Lupo and Som Saa, my indulgence was less lavish. I ordered myself 20 litres of white distilled vinegar — perfect for a wild weekend of grime-busting, descaling and deodorising.

I have a penchant for pickles. My eastern European constitution regularly craves the visceral tang of ogórki konserwowe (pickled gherkins in Polish). I have been a devotee of acetic acid for as long as I can remember — many years ago my babcia (grandmother) caught me sipping malt vinegar in her pantry.

Extolling the virtues of vinegar comes naturally. I can wax lyrical about its myriad

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Originally Appeared Here

Filed Under: Wine Varieties

Lee Kent Robinson Obituary – The Intelligencer

November 6, 2021 by ADSWineReporter

Reed and Steinbach Funeral Home

Lee Kent Robinson

Lee passed away on Thursday, November 4 at Pine Run Health Center. He was born in Abington, PA to the late William and Edna Selner Robinson. The family spent some years in Point Pleasant, PA while living the majority of their lives in Doylestown, PA.

Lee married Clara Farber in December of 1957. Both Lee and Clara were 1954 graduates of Central Bucks High School. They raised their family in Bedminster Township, PA and lived there until a 2006 move to the Vineyards in Pennsburg, PA, finally settling in the Pine Run Retirement Community in Doylestown, PA in 2016.

Lee could light up a room with his smile – a smile that emanated love and happiness throughout his life and stayed with him during the recent years burdened with Alzheimer’s disease. He was devoted to his large family and proudly put the special moments of his children and grandchildren at the center of his life. His friends were equally treasured.

Lee had work experience at FMC – Link Belt and Penn Engineering prior to entering Arbonite. Over the years at Arbonite, he continued studies at Lansdale School of Business, Sales Development Institute and Philadelphia Textile Institute. He was involved annually with the Liberty Bell Program for NACE. He wrote professional papers and was active in NACE and NTTC. He represented the company at trade shows throughout the states. In his more than 30 years of employment at Arbonite, Lee built solid, respectful relationships with his clients.

Lee was an outstanding athlete. Recently his most active pursuits were golf and fly fishing. He had been an active member of Trout Unlimited being concerned with the conservation of Pennsylvania’s trout streams. His athletic career in high school was highlighted by his winning of the 880-yard run at the state championships in track. He was a letter winner in five sports: football, basketball, volleyball, baseball and track. He was inducted into the inaugural class of the CB/CBW Athletic Hall of Fame in 2000.

Lee was an assistant track coach at Delaware Valley College in the early 80’s. He was involved in the community with the organization of the Deep Run Valley Sports Association where he coached for many years. He was inducted into the Deep Run Valley’s Hall of Fame in 2000.

Lee was a loyal American. He was proud to have attended the U.S. Naval Academy in Annapolis, MD and recalled this experience as one of the most meaningful of his life.

Lee is survived by his wife, Clara, four children, ten grandchildren and two great-grandchildren. Scott and Dina of Katy, Texas; children, Mia, Sasha, and Nikki. Jeffrey and Susan of Upper Black Eddy, PA; children, Madison, Anna, and Will, Madison and Sean’s sons, Kellan and Brady. Karen and Paul Ciccotto of Newtown, PA; children, Paul and Nick. John and SonSun of Union Grove, AL; children, Kimberly, her husband, Bix, and Tylor, his wife, Kate.

Services and interment will be held at a later date.

In lieu of flowers, memorial contributions in Lee’s name may be made to: Alzheimer’s Association, 225 N. Michigan Ave., Fl. 17, Chicago, IL 60601 (https://act.alz.org).

Reed and Steinbach Funeral Home, Doylestown

www.reedandsteinbach.com

Posted online on November 06, 2021

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Originally Appeared Here

Filed Under: Vineyards

New York State: Sparkling wines to try

November 6, 2021 by ADSWineReporter



New York State: Sparkling wines to try – Decanter

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Charles Curtis MW


November 6, 2021

Few today realise the importance of sparkling wine to New York State’s wine production.

The first bonded winery in the United States (established in 1860) was the Pleasant Valley Wine Company, whose product was called ‘Great Western Champagne’ (sic), a sparkling wine produced from hybrid grapes Isabella and Catawba.

Scroll down to see Charles Curtis MW’s top New York sparkling wines

Although this is still produced today, sparkling wine in New York State has diversified dramatically.

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Charles Curtis MW’s top New York sparkling wines

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Filed Under: News/Trends

I Drove a Camper Van up the California Coast — What It Was Like

November 6, 2021 by ADSWineReporter

I should’ve known my very first camper trip was going to be an adventure when, within the first five minutes, I almost got impaled by the snack drawer.

I was very bad at remembering to lock the drawers while our van was moving.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

Apparently, there are special locks to keep things in place in a moving van — who would’ve thought? Not me, clearly!

Thankfully, no limbs or appendages were lost on this trip. But I did gain a whole new perspective — on road trips, camper vans, and appreciating my home state. 

But wait, let me back up a second. Our story begins with a camper van and the Hoxton Hotel in downtown Los Angeles.

Anneta and Kristen with Camp Hox Van

Me and Kristen ready to embark on our adventure.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

My friend Kristen and I were set to embark on “Camp Hox,” a three-night experience organized by The Hoxton hotels. 

The new package — which is offered in London, Paris, Amsterdam, and Los Angeles — uniquely combines nature with luxury. After two days in a camper van packed with snacks and champagne, Camp Hox guests get to spend the night at one of the Hoxton properties. 

We opted for the $1,200 “California Coast” trip, which includes camping on a farm near Paso Robles and a night at The Hoxton in downtown Los Angeles. 

After checking in at the very chic lobby, Kristen and I said goodbye to the hotel. It was time to see our home for the next two nights.

Camp Hox Van

Our Cabana camper van.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

We were introduced to our Cabana van — my full tour here — which we quickly nicknamed “Cabana Hannah.” 

The Cabana website describes its vans as a “hotel that travels with you.”

Each van is about 20 feet long — the same as a large SUV, the site notes — and 11 feet tall. 

After a quick tour of the necessities, we settled into our seats to enjoy breakfast before hitting the road.

Camp Hox Burritos

Our breakfast burritos.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

Kristen and I couldn’t believe our eyes when we saw huge, warm burritos waiting for us in the cup holders.

These bad boys — made by The Hoxton’s Sibling Rival restaurant — were packed with scrambled eggs, barbacoa, avocado, tater tots, cotija cheese, and salsa roja. 

It was almost time to hit the road, but not before we checked out the snack drawer.

Snack drawer in the Camp Hox van

The Camp Hox snack drawer.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

As you’ve probably gathered, food is very important to me — I write about it for a living, after all. And I was definitely impressed with the Camp Hox snack haul. 

There were Sun Chips and Kettle Chips, two different types of cookies, olive oil for cooking, gummy treats, protein bars, crackers, coffee, tea, and even a s’mores kit.

As Donna Summer’s “Sunset People” blasted from the car’s speakers, Kristen and I screamed “Woo!” as we pulled away from The Hoxton.

Driving Camp Hox Van

Kristen said the van drove super smooth and easy.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

As if on cue, Cabana Hannah’s door suddenly came sliding open in the middle of a busy LA intersection. Turns out, I hadn’t closed it properly.

My lack of experience in van life was already apparent, and we’d been on the road for less than five minutes.

With our door properly closed, it was finally time to explore Camp Hox’s carefully curated itinerary.

Anneta at Zuma Beach for Camp Hox

We only spent a few minutes at Zuma Beach.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

First up was Zuma Beach, which was just a short drive away in Malibu. 

I could smell the sea as we sailed down the Pacific Coast Highway on the overcast Monday morning, passing palm trees and multimillion-dollar mansions perched on cliffs. 

When we pulled up to Zuma, we decided to skip the $8 parking fee. Kristen and I both went to UCLA and are no strangers to LA beaches, so we decided to keep heading north. 

As the sun came out and the California sky turned its familiar shade of blue, I soaked in the scenic route.

Camp Hox view from van

Driving on the Pacific Coast Highway.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

We continued to pass by gorgeous beaches as we drove up the coast, including Thornhill Broome Beach — where the water was a stunning turquoise and the sand was dotted with tents. 

As we headed toward our next stop, Kristen told me how smooth our camper van drove compared to other vans she’s rented in the past. Unlike bigger vans, our Cabana didn’t feel like it was wobbling every time the wind changed directions. 

After about an hour and a half, we pulled up to the next stop: La Super-Rica Taqueria in Santa Barbara.

La Super-Rica Taqueria

La Super-Rica Taqueria

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

This dilapidated turquoise building would be easy to miss if there wasn’t always a line around the block. La Super-Rica Taqueria is actually a California legend — Julia Child was a huge fan, and Katy Perry gave it a shout-out in her song, “This Is How We Do.” 

Kristen and I were still pretty full from breakfast, but there was no way we’d pass up the chance to try it. We ordered tacos, guacamole, and the horchata and got our food in about 15 minutes. 

Then we headed inland for our next stop in Santa Ynez.

Santa Ynez General Store

The Santa Ynez General Store.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

Our itinerary said the Santa Ynez General Store was not to be missed, and when I stepped inside I could see why. The warm and charming space had a wall of candles inspired by different national parks, while clothes, jewelry, cheese sets, and woven rugs were strewn about the store. 

And Nina, the owner, was excited to see us. The Cabana van had become a familiar sight at her store’s parking lot, and she told us all about the various people — best friends, couples, sisters — who had come before us. 

Our itinerary then guided us to Finley Farms Honor Stand, a small market on the side of the road filled with fresh produce.

Finley Farms on Camp Hox

Produce at Finley Farms Honor Stand.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

I loved that the Camp Hox itinerary led us to such a cute local find. Finley uses an honor system, so we dutifully weighed our tomatoes and peppers and counted our cucumbers and corn before throwing some cash into the designated barrel. 

As I perused the produce, I overheard Kristen — who used to run a bakery — discuss the different pepper flavors with an elderly lady. 

“A Jimmy Nardello is like the guy you think is super hot,” she explained. “But he ends up being a sweetheart.” 

After the food stand, we headed to a supermarket to stock up on more supplies. We noticed our van didn’t have salt and pepper, and we also grabbed some hot sauce, bread, feta cheese, and wine to go with our dinner. 

Our final stop for the night was Windrose Farm.

Windrose Farm

Our campsite at Windrose Farm.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

Camp Hox has its “California Coast” guests spend two nights at Windrose, a 70-acre family-owned organic farm located in Paso Robles. 

We followed instructions texted to us by Catherine Welch, the owner, and found our way to the campsite. Two chairs overlooking the sunset, along with two cruisers and a metallic tub, were already waiting for us. 

Catherine and her husband Justin Welch drove over a few minutes later to greet us, dropping off some fresh eggs for our breakfast the next day. Farm life already seemed pretty great. 

As day slowly changed into night, we got to work on dinner.

Food prep in Camp Hox van

Prepping dinner in the van.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

Kristen worked her magic on the peppers with our burner stove, while I made a huge Greek salad to eat with our toasted bread. 

While our camper van was small, I was surprised that there was still plenty of room to prep veggies thanks to the sink and an extra table that pulled out from behind the passenger seat. 

We set the table and dug in, toasting to our first night in the great outdoors.

Dinner at Windrose Farm

Our dinner at Windrose Farm.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

Since the farm was completely dark at night, the sky was sparkling with stars I never see through the LA lights and smog. 

As someone who hasn’t been camping since she was 13, and who spent most of her 20s in New York City, it was a stunning sight to see. 

After a good night’s sleep, I could confirm that the camper van’s bed was surprisingly comfortable.

Camp Hox van bed

The bed in Cabana Hannah was surprisingly comfy.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

I didn’t have high expectations for the sleeping arrangements, but I slept like a dream on Cabana Hannah’s 8-inch memory-foam mattress. And since it was a “camper queen” — meaning it has the width of a regular queen-size mattress and the length of a full — there was tons of room. 

With a plush comforter and knit blanket on top provided by Camp Hox, along with four big pillows, it didn’t feel all that different from my bed back home. 

It was time to explore Paso Robles, and we kicked things off by heading into Tin City.

Paso Robles Tin City

A winery at Tin City in Paso Robles.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

Housed in an industrial park not far from downtown, Tin City is one of the coolest wining and dining locations I’ve been to in a while. 

You’ll find more than 20 wineries within walking distance from each other, along with restaurants, a brewery, and delicious ice cream. These winemakers are mainly small, independent labels, and the tastings cost around just $20 per person. 

“It’s like sorority row, but with wineries,” Kristen marveled as we walked around before our first tasting appointment. 

First up was Field Recordings, which was my favorite winery of the day.

Paso Robles Field Recordings

Our tasting at Field Recordings.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

We picked up a baguette and some cheese and meats from the market downstairs and then headed to the patio for our tasting. 

I’ve been to a handful of tastings in the last few years, and none have felt more accessible than the one at Field Recordings. Hugo, our host, made all the information fun and easy to digest. I don’t know a lot about wine, but I never felt out of my depth. 

Plus, he gave me my very first glass of orange wine — Field Recordings’ Skins — and I loved it so much that I bought two bottles to bring back to LA. 

Hugo also told us more about Tin City, revealing that the place is always packed on weekends with people who jump from one winery to another — like a classy pub crawl. 

“If you like alcohol, the central coast is amazing,” he added.

After some more wine and ice cream, we headed downtown for our last tasting.

Paso Robles LXV Wines

Our tasting at LXV Wine.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

I was able to book us a last-minute appointment at LXV Wine, which was named in every travel blog I read about Paso Robles before the trip.

LXV is the only wine and spice pairing in North America, and Neeta Mittal — who founded it with her husband Kunal — is one of the first Indian women to own a winery in the US.

We were served cheeses covered in different spices to try with each wine, tasting how the flavors of a Cab were accentuated by the umami of ginger and black truffle salt, or how a Nebbiolo got a kick from Szechuan peppers.

It was unlike anything I’ve done before — my usual wine pairing is just some Brie from Trader Joe’s — and was such a cool experience.

After a long day of wine tasting, we passed out before 9 p.m., so Kristen and I got up early the next day for our last farm breakfast.

Camp Hox breakfast

Our last breakfast on the farm.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

When we had returned to Cabana Hannah the night before, we found fresh eggs — once again delivered by Catherine and Justin — waiting for us. 

We made our own version of a shakshuka with the help of leftovers from Alchemists’ Garden, and began packing our stuff. 

… and a tour of Windrose Farm.

Windrose Farm

The agave plants at Windrose Farm.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

Our itinerary noted that tours of Windrose Farm were available, and Justin was happy to take us around before we headed back to LA. 

He picked rustic arugula and fresh grapes for us to taste and showed us the agave that he and Catherine were growing for spirits. 

The air was thick with the smell of lemon verbena as the family’s Jack Russell adorably followed us around while we checked out the pigs, sheep, and chickens as well. 

It was a gorgeous California day, so we headed straight for the pool to sip on cocktails and catch some rays.

Hoxton pool

Drinks by The Hoxton’s rooftop pool.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

After two days of driving and sightseeing, it was nice to just kick back at the Hoxton’s rooftop pool — which we had to ourselves on that Wednesday afternoon. 

Kristen and I ordered some calamari and red pepper hummus (both delicious) to tide us over until our 9 p.m. dinner reservation at Pilot — the Hoxton’s rooftop restaurant right next to the pool — while sipping on our Negroni and banana daiquiri. 

Our Camp Hox trip was coming to an end, and I was surprised to find that I actually loved the camper van more than the hotel.

Camp Hox at Windrose Farm

I won’t lie, I already miss van life.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

When I was a kid I used to dream of just living in different hotels, and my love for them hasn’t faded with age. So when I first heard about the Camp Hox concept, I was sure that The Hoxton was going to be my favorite part of the trip. 

But I was shocked by how much I loved experiencing van life — albeit a luxury version — for a few days. I got to see so many new places along the coast, cook fresh breakfasts in the great outdoors, and spend hours listening to music under the sparkling stars. 

After 10 years of moving all over the world for different jobs, Camp Hox helped me appreciate my native state in a way I haven’t been able to in a very long time.

Anneta in the Camp Hox van

Camp Hox helped me appreciate California in a whole new way.

Anneta Konstantinides/Insider

And while I love a California king and free fancy toiletries, that’s just something you can’t do in a hotel room. 

So this isn’t goodbye, Cabana Hannah — just see you later. 

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Originally Appeared Here

Filed Under: Wine Pairing

Column: They aged wine in the ocean. We held a taste test

November 6, 2021 by ADSWineReporter

We took our seats around a table. The wine was poured. The stakes were high.

Let’s call it the Great Santa Barbara Wine Tasting.

You may recall the case of the underwater wine locker, in which a company called Ocean Fathoms ran afoul of the California Coastal Commission for storing vino on the ocean floor a mile off Santa Barbara.

Put a cork in it, said the commission staff, which ordered Ocean Fathoms to haul hundreds of bottles of caged wine out of the surf.

But the wine is sublime, argued Ocean Fathoms, which disputes the commission’s finding that a Pinot plunge is strictly prohibited under the Coastal Act.

“But you can drill for oil,” said Todd Hahn, one of Ocean Fathoms’ owners, noting the recent catastrophic oil spill that fouled the Orange County coast.

If you had a wine spill, said Ocean Fathoms president Emanuele Azzaretto, people would flock to the beach, cups in hand.

A fair argument, but no new oil drilling off the California coast has been permitted in decades, and there are calls to mothball existing pumping operations.

But regardless of how the regulatory proceedings play out for Ocean Fathoms, I wanted to test the central claim. The owners insist that a bottle of wine stored on the ocean floor for a year or so tastes better than a bottle of the same wine traditionally stored in a cool, dark place on land.

Peter Stolpman, left, Erin Kempe and Paolo Barbieri sample ocean-aged wine at Ocean Fathoms’ downtown Santa Barbara headquarters.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

How so?

Ocean Fathoms claims it’s all about seafloor temperature, darkness, pressure, and the gently swaying currents. And every bottle, they say, is a work of art, thanks to the mosaic of barnacles and other sea life attached to the glass.

As noted in my first column on this scheme, Susan Jordan of the California Coastal Protection Network was appalled that marine creatures including an octopus or two clung to the wine bottles in marketing photos.

And skeptics of the benefits of underwater storage were not hard to find, nor were they inclined to pay up to $350 for a bottle that would ordinarily sell in the neighborhood of $70.

A UC Davis professor of viticulture called it marketing voodoo aimed at rich people who want something in their collection to brag about.

EmBarnacles and other forms of sea life cling to bottles of Ocean Fathoms wine that were aged in the sea off Santa Barbara.

Barnacles and other forms of sea life cling to bottles of Ocean Fathoms wine that were aged in the sea off Santa Barbara.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

A highly regarded online wine writer called it flat-out BS.

And yet ocean-water wine storage is happening in several countries, inspired in part by claims that it’s no gimmick, because wine recovered from shipwrecks was liquid gold.

For the tasting at Ocean Fathoms’ downtown Santa Barbara headquarters, I assembled an all-star team of Central Coast wine titans: Kathy Joseph of Fiddlehead Winery, Peter Stolpman of Stolpman Vineyards and Laura Booras of Riverbench Vineyard & Winery. I also roped in Matt Kettmann, who writes for the Santa Barbara Independent and covers California wine for Wine Enthusiast.

Ocean Fathoms invited sommelier Paolo Barbieri of Barbieri Wine Co.

The first wine put to the test was a 2016 Domaine de la Cote Memorius, a Pinot Noir from winemaker Rajat Parr, one of the four Ocean Fathoms partners. Parr had told me he was skeptical of the wonders of ocean storage, but became a convert after plunging his own wine.

Two glasses were set in front of each of us. On the left, a traditionally aged Memorius. On the right, Memorius from the deep blue sea.

Bottoms up.

I liked the wine on my left, but I also liked the wine on my right, which has happened before. To me, the ocean-aged wine tasted a bit smoother, but I didn’t want to speak up and risk embarrassing myself in the presence of experts, so I waited on their judgment.

They sniffed, swirled, tasted and murmured things about the nose, the fruit, the tannins. The word “angular” was used more than once.

A picture of co-owner Emanuele Azzaretto, left, in his deep diving suit hangs in the tasting room at Ocean Fathoms wine.

A picture of co-owner Emanuele Azzaretto, left, in his deep diving suit hangs in the tasting room at Ocean Fathoms wine.

(Myung J. Chun/Los Angeles Times)

And the verdict?

Unanimous, and in accordance with my amateur judgment.

“I think I like the underwater wine a little better,” said Kettmann.

It tasted fuller, with a “broader palate,” said Joseph.

“There’s an elegance” to the ocean wine, said Booras, “but I don’t think a regular consumer would notice an excessively huge difference.”

Stolpman and Barbieri were in the same boat.

So maybe it’s not just a marketing gimmick, I said. Oh, it’s a bit gimmicky, said Joseph, who wondered if the traditionally aged wine had been properly stored and handled.

Good point. Had the Great Santa Barbara Wine Tasting been rigged?

Wine is emerges after 12 months under the sea by Ocean Fathoms.

Wine is emerges after 12 months under the sea by Ocean Fathoms.

(Fab Fernandez)

Not a chance, said our hosts.

Joseph, like the others, seemed impressed, intrigued and a bit surprised by the results. She, Booras and Stolpman all said they’d be curious to see how their own wines fared underwater.

I raised a hand and asked why we had been told in advance which wine was which. I thought we were supposed to do a blind tasting.

OK, said the Ocean Fathoms guys. For the second round, using a 2016 Ocean Fathoms Super Tuscan that would sell for around $50 (or several times as much if it’s taken a dip), two more glasses were set before each of us, but we weren’t told which wine had spent a year living with the fishes.

Again, the result was unanimous. And when the wines were identified, the ocean-aged wine had won out again.

OK, I said, but if the traditionally stored wine had been stored a bit longer, would it eventually soften and mellow out like the silkier ocean-aged wine?

Not necessarily, said the experts, who suspected the seafaring wine was evolving along a different molecular path. Both would be good, they agreed, but they would be different.

Is that difference worth a few hundred dollars?

To some high rollers, probably. But Stolpman — who makes great reds in the $20 range — made the point that we were sampling wines the vast majority of wine drinkers are never going to buy. And it probably wouldn’t pencil out for Ocean Fathoms or its customers to drop a $10 bottle of wine into the ocean for a year and then try to charge $100 for it.

An octopus covers a Ocean Fathoms wine bottle after being kept at depth of 70 feet for several months.

An octopus covers a Ocean Fathoms wine bottle after being kept at depth of 70 feet for several months.

(Michael Habor)

So what we’re talking about is a quest to use the ocean as a wine cooler for the benefit of an elite few, with the owners arguing there would be minimal environmental impact and that wine storage is a form of aquaculture, which can be permitted under the Coastal Act.

It’s not even a close call, a Coastal Commission staffer told me, because it’s not as if Ocean Fathoms is asking permission to grow kelp or shellfish. In its report, the staff said “wine is not an aquatic plant or animal and thus, the proposed project does not fit the definition of aquaculture.” In addition, the staffer told me, “our job is not to creatively look for loopholes to allow for more industrialization of the ocean.”

If Ocean Fathoms were to get the green light, how many more wine makers would want to establish their own wine lockers off the California coast? And is the ocean really necessary, or would a lake suffice, or possibly a pressure-sealed container of salt water perched on one of those workout vibration platforms?

Azzaretto isn’t ready to give up, and he’s mulling a new permit application. We’ve got world-class grapes growing next to a spectacular ocean, he says, two great natural assets that ought to be married. In his dream, people will flock from around the world to sample salt-crusted bottles of wine.

But grapes can travel, and there’s plenty of wide-open sea and opportunity beyond California, especially now that a room full of judges has weighed in on ocean aging.

Should the team set sail for distant waters, I’ll gladly christen the voyage with a bottle smashed against the bow.

Just not a $350 bottle.

steve.lopez@latimes.com

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Originally Appeared Here

Filed Under: Wine Tasting

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